The Winterthur Library

The Joseph Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera

Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Winterthur, DE 19735

302-888-4600 or 800-448-3883

OVERVIEW OF THE COLLECTION

Creator: Emerson, Loretto (Loretto Emerson Clark), 1887-

Title: The Emerson tirade in Europe

Dates: 1907-1908

Call No.: Doc. 1606

Acc. No.: 09x91

Quantity: 1 volume

Location: 31 J

BIOGRAPHICAL STATEMENT

The Emerson family which sojourned in Europe was Mother, Helen, and Babe Emerson, that is Loretto, Helen, and Loretto (“Babe”) Emerson. The Emersons were Roman Catholic. They compared places in Europe to New York City, which could lead one to speculate that they knew New York, although the Emersons were from El Paso, Texas.

The diary was “an open book,” but was chiefly kept by Babe, as evidenced by her recording her birthday, when she turned 21 on May 21, 1908. Babe either referred to herself in the third person in the diary, or the entries in which she was mentioned were written by someone else.

A search of a genealogy website found a record of Loreto, Helen, and Loreto Emerson arriving in Boston in June 1908, aboard the R.M.S. Saxonia, which had sailed from Liverpool on June 16, 1908, which date and place tally with the departure of the diary Emersons. (This was the clue to identifying the Emerson family.)

Loretto Mary Ritchie was born in Illinois in December1853, the daughter of Mary J. Murphy and James Ritchie. She married George Washington Emerson in 1879. In addition to daughters Helen and Loretto, they had sons James Ritchie and Joseph Theodore George. Mrs. Emerson’s death date was not found. Mr. Emerson was an undertaker and furniture merchant in El Paso, Texas. (El Paso is mentioned once in the diary.) (The name Loretto is also found spelled Lorette and Loretta.)

Helen Mary Emerson was born in 1885. She married Edward McIntyre (1880-1961), and she died in 1965 in Santa Monica, California. (A Mrs. McIntyre/McIntire is mentioned in the diary. Perhaps this was Edward’s mother, although the names could be a coincidence.)

The younger daughter Loretto, also known as Babe and Lettie, was the chief diary keeper. On August 11, 1911, she married William N. Clark, a farmer in Potsdam, New York. The Clarks had several children, including daughter Gloria (born circa 1927). Loretto died in Potsdam in 1976. Gloria Clark wrote her name as Gloria Clarke in the recipe section of the diary.

On the Saxonia passenger list, the name Jane S. Ewer was above that of the Emersons, and it is possible that she was the Mrs. Ewer who is mentioned several times in the diary.

SCOPE AND CONTENT

Diary kept by Loretto (“Babe”) Emerson, possibly with entries by her mother and sister Loretto and Helen, recorded during the Emersons’ sojourn in Europe, from their departure from New York City on October 17, 1907, until Tuesday, June 16, 1908, when they boarded a return ship in Liverpool, England. Sometimes the Emersons were joined in their travels by friends.

Their ship docked in Le Havre on October 25, and they went to Paris, where they spent time sight seeing and shopping. From Paris, they traveled through Switzerland en route to Italy: Milan, Genoa, Rome, Naples, Rome again, and on to Florence, where they rented an apartment for the winter of 1907-1908. Along the way, they visited museums, toured the countryside, shopped, went to church, and even had an audience with the pope. While settled in Florence, they took Italian, music, and art lessons. However, the entries describing the winter here are sparse.

In the spring, they left Florence, stopped in Venice, and then traveled to Budapest, Vienna, around Germany, through the Low Countries, back to Paris, and then on to England and Scotland, where they made literary pilgrimages to Stratford-upon-Avon and the homes of Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns. Most of the diary is a fairly straight forward record of places they visited. The diarist seems to have been especially interested in art and was thrilled during visits to museums and churches to see the works of Raphael, Michelangelo, Andrea del Sarto, Titian, and Rubens. The diarist also went to operas, plays, and concerts, and was delighted to see Sarah Bernhardt in Paris. Although shopping is often mentioned, rarely were their purchases recorded. Lace gowns, hats, and opera cloaks were purchased in Paris, and a black outfit had to be purchased in Rome for their meeting with the pope. Lace shops were visited in Belgium.

Although not terribly detailed, the diary gives some insight into European travel. The family depended on Cooks offices to receive mail and money. Mostly they traveled by train, but sometimes by boat or coach, and a few misadventures are recorded. In cities, they depended on cabs or street cars, and used street car rides to help orient themselves to several cities. Occasionally they rode in automobiles. They stayed in hotels or pensions, but little was said about their accommodations. They enjoyed spaghetti in Italy, but never mentioned other foods.

The volume was not filled by the record of the European trip, and cooking recipes are found in the back of the volume. The name Gloria Clarke is written before some of the recipes, although Loretto Emerson’s married name was spelled Clark. Some recipes are noted as being from Aunt Mary.

ORGANIZATION

The entries are in chronological order.

LANGUAGE OF MATERIALS

The materials are in English, with a few words in other languages.

RESTRICTIONS ON ACCESS

Collection is open to the public. Copyright restrictions may apply.

PROVENANCE

Purchased from Ian Brabner, bookseller.

ACCESS POINTS

People:

Emerson, Loretto Ritchie, 1853-

Emerson, Helen Mary (Helen Mary Emerson McIntyre), 1885-1965.

Topics:

Concerts.

Drama.

Ocean travel.

Opera.

Railroad travel.

Shopping.

Travelers.

Voyages and travel.

Women – Diaries.

Women travelers.

Europe – Description and travel.

Diaries.

Recipes.

TRANSCRIPTION OF THE DIARY

Note on the transcription: Some spelling has been corrected (the diarist had a habit of writing g for q and vice versa), and some punctuation and capitalization have been added or regularized. A question mark in brackets after a word indicates that the transcriber was uncertain if the word or the spelling is correct. The word illegible indicates the transcriber was unable to guess what a word was.

The volume was purchased at the shop of L. Bouclet, Papeteire Artistique, 37 Boulevard St. Michel, presumably in Paris. Because of where the volume was purchased, it is probable that the entries about the voyage were written after the party arrived in Paris.

“The Emerson Tirade In Europe, 1907-1908” is written inside the front cover.

October 17th, ‘07

No doubt all things are written in the Sands of Time; but who, passing by after the waves of each day, can read the story written there.

So[?] “lest you forget we say it yet” - Here’s to our good Fortune on the Continent and may we live to come again while we are yet young enough to enjoy. ---

[p.2]

And this is to be the open record in black and white of both interesting and dull facts and fancies fruitless chases and eventful trips – dear to our hears and sacred in our memories.

[p.3]

October 17, 1907

“Mother what made you get up so early.” “I know quite well we will never be ready for that boat. Babe, will you get up.”

So you see it is the same old story no matter what the trip may be. We started on our voyage carrying our “Good luck” in the shape of Mrs. Whiting’s old slipper, in Helen’s coat. Marie with her arms savagely entwined around

[p.4]

Bert’s neck was the last of Pier 42, and the good ship La Lourain [sic] put out to sea, losing sight of land shortly after we left the narrows and Quarantine. [La Lorraine was in the fleet of the French Line.]

Oct. 18 –

A beautiful day with the sea as smooth as glass. Settled on the north side of the steamer, rolled in rugs and bright sunlight. Such luxury and how well we feel. “I never ate so well in all

[p.5]

my life” was the general declaration.

The steerage gave a musicale from below and those horse [sic] unharmonic tones wafted to us borne on the breeze scented strong with garlic.

October 19, 07

But oh the day of reckoning has come. Three days out and the ship rolls like a feeble thing in the trough of the raging sea. The Emersons succumb and the brave talk is done. So too

[p.6]

with the other passengers, such an army of ghost – paled cheeks, purle[?] lips and scared eyes. It is too much that these doings should be recorded. Mother and Babe never understood before, but now, why there isn’t anything about any part they can’t tell you of. Just ask them. No doubt for if you wait long enough I am sure they will volunteer to give you the desired

[p.7]

information. Helen was stupid and made fun but pretended against hope. The night came and the wind and storm persisted.

October 20

After a good night’s rest we are better. Mother made a break for the breakfast table at last and found it deserted. Babe and Helen, somewhat revived, had breakfast on deck. The other passengers

[p.8]

were friendly and bowed good day. It takes the sickly ones to hang together!

We sighted several steamers today returning to New York. We never dreamed of wishing to be on them!!

The fish were so glad to see us they followed us for fifteen minutes jumping out of the waves and dashing back in, droves of them the sailors said, and great large fish weighing at least

[p.9]

thirty and thirty five pounds (no fish tale), but they are not edible.

Oh if the [sic, i.e. they] would just not come around again with that ice cream and cake at 4 o’clock! “Beef tea” - . Why Steward don’t you know I am so sick of beef tea. I imagine the whales must spout it now. Oh now are you sure tomorrow won’t be rough! Let us inform all our friends of what

[p.10]

a poor weather prophet the deck Steward is. Don’t believe him ever!!!

October 21

All had a very poor night and the waves are smaller I do believe. Here comes another and the skyline goes down, then the ship goes over on the side until one can see the clouds under the side rail of the boat and one’s feet are directed towards the noonday sun. Yet with it all I say

[p.11]

the sea was calmer and we ate a little bit.

October 22.

Why it is fine this morning and we are taking [sic, talking is probably meant] French. The nuns interested themselves in us and are such intelligent company. They are of the Bernadine order, establish over a century ago, and not expelled from France. Their building’s being used as a governmental institution for the blind. The Mother Superior

[p.12]

was imprisoned for three months because she carried off some of the household furnishings!! They are now in Belgium and have a large convent in Bucks England, near London.

Passed several steamers and more fish. The wireless weather reports are unfavorable, so we expect to continue to tie ourselves in bed.

[p.13]

October 23

The day we took the sea bath. The bath man (note the masculine) came and jabbered off some French, made a grab for my underclothes, and away downstairs he went, me running like wild after him. I traced him to the bathroom by the pieces of underclothing he dropped along the way. The thermometer was encased in wood floating around in the tub. It was the

[p.14]

size of a fence rail. He talked and talked until he had to be pushed out of the bathroom. Babe came next and it was just as funny. Thank goodness tomorrow we see land.

October 24

If everything goes well we land on tomorrow in Havre. At noon we came in sight of the Scilly Island lighthouse and by three in the afternoon we sailed along the coast of England for

[p.15]

about three hours, then sight of land was lost again.

We had a concert on board, an Italian opera singer and a very petit French woman. Moving pictures of Algiers, Morroco [sic].

October 25

We were roused at a most ghostly hour, 4 am, and the sailor swung mail and bundled trunks until we all concluded that to watch the sunrise from deck was preferable. We had reached the Harbor

[p.16]

and anchored during the night, but because of low water the Louraine [sic] could not dock at her usual place. We transferred luggage and all on to a tug and the sun’s first pale rays lighted us into the dock. The bay was thick with fishing sails and the fishermen picturesque. There is a high fort on the cliffs that stand up from the ocean.

The dinky[?] little train soon steamed away to

[p.17]

Paris, after a very lenient inspection at the custom office. The ride was grand – such gardens! Beautiful rows of trees! Thatched roofed houses and the people of the hamlets clean and busy. A [sic, i.e. At] noon we reached the gay Pariée [sic]. Mr. Amos put us in a cab for the Hotel Dysart. We located in Cité de Ritero[?] and at three o’clock went to look up the trunks. We found we had lost our purse – containing checks

[p.18]

and every bit of foreign money we had, the bulk of it being in the trunk. Three hours of agony transpired, too true to relate! The Dysart had not seen it and no hope was possible except to identify the trunks. All returning to the station, we spoke to the agent and found a gentleman who spoke English. He took us to the cab yard and there to our grand dismay stood the man with our purse. The cab man (imagine one in

[p.19]

New York so honest – Mon Dieu. [parentheses not closed] We soon were settled after this and we are glad we are here now.

October 26

We got a fair idea of Paris and ‘got our bearings’ as it were. We have been into some of the shops – The Printemps. The most vexing town to learn. No street is longer than seven blocks and they doesn’t run straight that far.

October 27

In the morning we went to the Madeleine for

[p.20]

high Mass. The organ is the grandest here, has five keyboards and the music was inspiring. After dejeuner went to the Louvre. Just traversed one fourth of it. Then we got into a cab to take a drive and could not pay it. We all sat there and laughed like monkeys, the cabbie became angry and so we told him to go to the hotel and the concierge told him. We went out the Champ Elysées, passed

[p.21]

the Arc de Triomphe into the Bois de Boulogne. It was crowded and delirous with people and gay colors.

My such coffee as these French make – sickening and garlic is the only relish!!

October 28

More shops and worlds of fine things. We chased[?] the furnished apartment question but decided not to remain in Paris for the winter, the weather is so disagreeable.

[p.22]

Tuesday 29

Went to the Bon Marché and got a lace gown of d’Alencon, a beauty. Went to Cooks for mail and then to Opera where we met Mary Lea, Mrs. McAllister, etc. They took us to the Gallerie Lafayette where we bought opera cloaks.

Wednesday 30

Went to the Musée de Cluny, an old monastery in the heart of Paris. The walls are fallen and

[p.23]

the garden is a dream of old statues. The rarest old things are inside – clothing, armor, religious objects, porcelain, carvings, mosaics, carriages and furniture. The most interesting place in Paris, aside from an historical point of view.

Next we went up the hill to the Luxembourg. The gardens are still a sight of Paris. The Musee is a salon of beaux arts now. The Palace itself is now used

[p.24]

for the Senate and has been since Napoleon I. The president of the senate now occupies that part known as the “petit Luxembourg,” the residence of Richelieu.

Thursday 31

A perfectly glorious day and no better sight to take in than Versailles. The 9:15 car left the Place de la Concord with the Emersons in the attic. The ride was fine[?], outside the city walls.

[p.25]

Versailles has been restored of course and is in first class condition. The fountains, gardens and forests are beyond description. Gallery after gallery. One statue of Napoleon after another and if not he, it must be Louis XIV, such conceit. We visited the Grand Trianon and the Petit Trianon and had dejeuner at Hotel des Resevoirs, fine. Home at five pm and went to Mary Lea’s to dinner. Met some Chicago

[p.26]

people who can’t speak French.

Friday 1^st [November]

All Saint’s Day. Went to Mass in the Madeleine and to Pere Lachaises. Visited the graves of all the famous ancients and some moderns!

Had tea with Mrs. and Louise Hayden of Seattle. Inspected the Subway home. Faust at the Grand Opera was fine. Chorus were poor in comparison, also scenic effects. The ballet girls if caught in Manhattan

[p.27]

in such condition would all be pinched[?] – horrible!! There were six of us. Met Mr. Amos.

Saturday 2^nd

Went to Fontainebleau and nearly lost our lives in the cause. Took the Metropolitan and to the Gare de Lyon. It is an hour and a half from Paris but worth it. The most intensely interesting of all the chateaus. Everything is just as it was – rugs, furniture, etc.

[p.28]

While not so extensive as Versailles, is as beautiful and we like it better. Napoleon abdicated here. The cradle where Marie Antoinette rocked the little king. Diana of Poitiers has the grandest memorial of all – built by Henry II.

The forests are extensive and afire in this season.

Sunday 3^rd

We had a caller last eve after we had gone to bed. Babe represented the family and I am

[p.29]

sure shocked the natives by remaining in the salon alone with a man.

Notre Dame was the sight today. The great massive place, riches galore, and to think the “Goddess of Reason” reigned here. Returning to the Place de la Concorde by steamer. Mary Lea accompanied us for a ride on the Bois and the Champs Elysées. We took tea at the Elysée Palace, then returned home

[p.30]

for dinner.

Monday 4^th

Met Dr. Mitchell and Mr. G[illegible] in Cooks, also Mary Lee and Mrs. McAllister. Interviewed Spauldings. Not much sight seeing today. In the eve, Mr. Amos called and accompanied us to the Theatro Gaite. Madame Dalma[?] sang in La Vivandiere and we enjoyed it.

Tuesday 5^th

Shopping again in the a.m.

[p.31]

Packed in the p.m. and visited at the Dysart in the eve.

Wednesday 6^th

Bought our “wunderkin”[?] of tickets at Cooks. Received word from home.

Went to Castall[illegible], Ecole de Beaux Arts this afternoon, with much effort. Miss Waldron was our guide and we had a great experience in the Latin quarter.

Tomorrow we are off for Geneva!

[p.32]

Thursday 7^th

Such an unearthly hour to rise and dress by candle light. The whole troupe was on the alert to see us off. Left from the Gare de Lyon at eight forty. A long ride through a picturesque country. Coming up the mountains into Switzerland the best part. By night we are domiciled at the Hotel d’Angleterre and the rates are stunning – so cheap! Meals fine and good coffee. We face the

[p.33]

beautiful Lake Geneva – calm, serene and blue. The great white sails are like huge birds on the water. Everything is so quiet.

Friday 8th

Never saw such a fine town to live in – clean, beautiful and thriving. The jewelry shops and the lingerie[?] stores are irresistible!! Hardware stores and china!! There has been a heavy mist today so we could not ascend Mount Saleve. All are crazy over

[p.34]

the stores. The Rhone is beautiful and clear as crystal, at any part one can see the bottom at least fifteen to twenty feet. It ranges from 400 to 1,100 feet in places.

Saturday 9^th

Did some shopping. Of all disastrous car rides – Mother and Helen stuck to it. Mother met with disaster in a jewelry shop, an enamel piece.

Sunday 10^th

Went to Mass in the Italian Church and were edified

[p.35]

at the devotion shown. The children’s hymns and prayers were inspiring. The side wheeler “Dauphin” carried us from Geneva at 10 am and we did not like to leave the beautiful city by Lake Leman. We had a “foggy time” but enjoyed the day to Montreaux [sic, i.e. Montreux]. Then we took an evil smelling car to Chillon. We enjoyed this greatly. Some natives are living in the castle (in parts) and it is very poorly arranged by them. Bonivard prison. [Francois Bonivard was held a prisoner in the Chateau de Chillon.]

[p. 36]

The pillar he was chained for four years. The other two they don’t know just where he was kept. Returning to Montreaux [sic] we nearly had spasms to get the train. Nothing but “Deutsche.” We took the elevator up the hill and missed the train!!

We finally reached Lausanne and went to Hotel Gibbon “our Waterloo,” stung[?] again as Joe says.

Monday 11

Left Lausanne at 11.24.

[p.37]

Everybody seems ugly and rude, self concerned and we never want to go there again.

Lucerne – after a beautiful ride up the mountains and through the Swiss farms, unmatched any place. Vineyards galore, one ten miles in length.

Tuesday 12

Lucerne is beautiful and the mountains superb. Pilatus and Rigi guard her well. We visited the Lion and the Glacial

[p.38]

Gardens.

The hotels are beautiful. The Cathedral a great old structure, very simple in style. There are many shops of souvenirs etc., but the city is not so pretty or clean as Geneva.

Wednesday 13.

We took the early train, 9.08 am from Lucerne on the St. Gottard Railway passing thro’ the renowned tunnel. The southern side of the Alps are past description. Great waterfalls fed from the peaks of eternal

[p.39]

snow dashed down every gulch and crevice along the way. The sunlight on the peaks was most sublime, and below Lake Lugano mirrored them in dazzling reflection. We have passed out of the district of William Tell and away from all of Switzerland. In the eastern part we found the natives gruff, impolite and self centered. Geneva because of its location near the French border is not so. So soon as one enters that part of Switzerland where German is spoken then the harshness

[p.40

is noticeable.

In Italy it is different. We are located in Milan for a five days siege and everyone is gracious. We are near the grand Cathedral on the Corso Victor Emmanuel.

Thursday 14^th

Visited the Pallazzio [sic] de Brera, once a monastery or Jesuit college. It contains many early Lombard frescoes and some late works. Raphael’s “Sposalizio” is the charm of the collection. We went to the Galleria Victor Emmanuel, an arcade of stores built in the

[p.41]

form of a cross, with a passage running through, new covered. Went to the shops and bought some copies of Luini and Leonardo de Vinci. These frescoes date back to the 14 and 15 centuries and some mosaics as far back as the 3^rd and fourth. [Bernardino Luini was a fresco painter in Milan]

Friday 15

Met Mr. Laudino[?] on the street as we were returning to lunch. In the morning we visited the church and convent of Santa Maria della Grazie where Leonardo de Vinci’s “Last Supper” is guarded. It is in the refectory of the former

[p.42]

monastery. It can not last very much longer – is now in the last stages of decay. We visited the church next, and a guide took us through the monastery, sacristy, and such places. It was a treat to see such ancient workings. Now only the church itself is religious, the monastery is a property of the State. Napoleon demolished most of the good things. We then went to the Church of Saint Ambrose, built after the old Roman style. A ([illegible]) court in the front with tombs and a long

[p.43]

façade and pillars. A brother took us all through this place into cavernous places and chapels built in rock. The tombs of St. Ambrose, Protase and Cervase [i.e. the martyrs Protasius and Gervasius] are here and in the Catacombs. The church above ground was not erected until later. We sat in the chair where Charlemagne and the kings of Lombardy were crowned with the Iron crown. It is of plain white marble and carved, in the choir of the main chancel. Pepin the son of Charlemagne is buried here too and his tomb is very plain.

[p.44]

We then went to the Church of San Lorenzo, the oldest in Milan, once used as the palace of Maximilian. The frescoes and mosaics are worthy of note.

In the afternoon we visited the Cathedral but just for a few minutes. The bronze door in the main Entrance is the grandest sight in all Milan.

Saturday 16.

Visited the Musée Poldi-Pezzoli, a stately old mansion left with all its furnishings to the State. There are some very old pictures, Luini, Peru-

[p.45]

gino - Francesca! And Botticelli. The collection of armor is one of the finest.

Then Mr. Landino[?] called & told us of Verdi. We went to the home he founded for poor musicians, where Verdi and his second wife are buried. He died in 1901, a very old man. A former servant was our guide and at times he cried when telling of of [sic] his master. It is said the whole city wept and business was suspended during the funeral. The tombs is the most beautiful

[p.46]

we have seen, though very simple. Constructed of Grey marble and the interior of mosaic. The most graceful figures of Life, Death, Music, Inspiration and angels, all in mosaic, with a background of gold, a bronz [sic, i.e. bronze] slab with only his name is the monument. The house contains all his honors, gifts, and recognitions from the reigning kings, etc. Gold wreath, batons, everything in the line of medals. His manuscripts are there also, his desk as the last left it,

[p.47]

with an unfinished telegram. He died in the Hotel de Milan and the State has secured the furniture, even bed linen and carpet, from the room where he died. His clothes, hat, and cane[?] all are there, also a plaster cast made after death of his face and hands.

We attend opera tonight at the Lyric in flannel shirt waists. Marcella is the new opera conducted by Mascagni and composed by “Giorgione” [sic, i.e. Umberto Giordano] author of “Fedora.” It was a double bill, the second opera being Mascagni’s

[.48]

latest opera D’Amico [sic, i.e. Amica]. The Italians[?] fairly hissed[?] the latter and some say it is to be doubted whether he every [sic, means ever] wrote “Cavelerii Rusticana.” [sic, i.e. “Cavelleria Rusticana”] [Note: Marcella was first performed at the Teatro Lirico in Milan on November 9, 1907.]

Sunday 17

Left Milan at 9.15 am after having attended Mass in the Cathedral – we were all sorry to leave Milan with is [sic, i.e. its] dizzy commercial throng so like New York.

At four pm we arrived in Genoa after a pleasant ride with an English crank. The ride was not very clean – tunnel after tunnel. A grand statue of Columbus is the

[p.49]

first pleasant impression of Genoa, and almost the only one. It is a vey interesting town, beautifully located on the quiet Bay. The Campo Santo or graveyard we visited on that bay. The most beautiful sculptural exhibits in marble and bronze are the most noteworthy sight. The Madonna of the Olives is near here in a little county [sic, i.e. country] church, also the Madonna of the Roses in the Immaculate Conception Church, the most elaborate we have visited, though small. Our hotel was on the Bay and the great revolving light pierced through the shutters

[p.50]

as it blinked the long night through. A gentleman with a wife and English relatives wanted to accompany us to the Campo Santo – we had to snub him terribly before he saw he was not wanted. On leaving Genoa we could not secure a seat in the train while great burly men occupied the compartment marked “Signore y Ragazzi” and refused to move. An English speaking Italian

[p.51]

befriended us and in his righteous wrath detained the train fifteen minutes until we were seated. He came and spent a few minutes with us, apologizing for the shortcomings of the R.R. company and some members of his race. At four p.m. we reached Pisa.

Monday 18

Pisa is a dear little town where the cabdrivers and guides hawk one crazy. The orange and lemon trees flooded the court of our hotel

[p.52]

with perfume. The oranges are not ripe or I fear I would be sorely tempted.

Tuesday 19

The sights in this place are arranged for the convenience of sightseers. The Cathedral, Baptistery, Campanile, and Campo Santo are within a few steps of each others. Galileo’s tower is most wonderful, solid marble. Two pictures in the Cathedral were A. del Sarto’s Saint Agnes and a Madonna - the winning

[p.53]

cards for Pisa. At 4.15 we left Pisa for Rome. On account of floods the travelling was poor. We got out and took a carriage, baggage and all, across the old Roman bridge because the railroad had been washed away. The old Roman bridge of stone, cemented with age, stood the press of the water when that of iron and steel washed away. The sun was just disappearing in the West and the great yellow moon rising over the hills in

[p.54]

the East. Before coming to this place the conductor came through the train collection one franc from each person, because of the disaster he explained. Think of the passengers paying the Co.’s losses – I fought a long time with him about it and he could not see how I could expect otherwise. We reached Rome at midnight.

Wednesday 20

The most perfect day one could order of the gods.

[p.55]

This first day in Rome has been enlightening. It is more grand than any impressions formed of study from books. Harry K. Thaw’s brother has rented a villa opposite our hotel. [Benjamin Thaw was the brother of Harry K. Thaw, the murderer of the architect Sanford White in 1906; Harry’s first trial had been in early 1907, and the second trial was in January 1908.] We have a good “lay of the land” as we took a car and landed at Satin Peters, passing first the Porte San Giovanni. We are going again to St. Peters and know it better.

Thursday 21

Bright and Early we went to the ruins of ancient Rome, the Forum, taking in the

[p.56]

Colesseum [sic] first, then the excavations. The work of preservation has been done mostly by the Popes in former years. How striking is the fact here as in France of the returns for what Catholicity has done for public grandeur.

This afternoon in the Piazza Barberini we visited the Cappercine [sic, i.e. Capuchin] church. Guido Reni’s Saint Michael is here, and underneath the church a burial ground. The skeletons are piled high and the most fantastic designs are worked

[p.57]

on the walls in bones, hanging lamps, etc.

[Note: the church Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini, or Our Lady of the Conception of the Capuchins, located near the Piazza Barberini, is noted for its crypt. Reni’s work “St. Michael the Archangel,” executed ca.1635, decorates an altar in the church.]

Friday 22

Went to the Vatican Picture Gallery. Oh such a splendid treat. Michael Angelo [sic] and Rapheal [sic], the Logge [sic, i.e. Loggia or Loggie], and Sistine Chapel. The most valuable treasures in the world of art are here, “The Transfiguration,” “Last Communion of Saint Gerome,” “Mystic Marriage of Saint Catherine,” and Correggio’s “Christ in the Clouds.”

This being Saint Cecelia’s day, we went to the celebrations in her honor. The catacombs

[p.58]

of Saint Calixtus are on the Appian Way beyond the Church “Quo Vadis.” Saint Cecelia was found after seven centuries in these catacombs. A statue now marks the place. The body was removed and is now in a crypt under the high Altar in a church named after her. The catacombs were all lighted and hundreds of people flocked there. [note: the name Calixtus is also rendered as Callistus. One source says St. Cecilia’s body was found in the catacomb of St. Celestas, not that of Calixtus.]

We then went to the church; Cardinal Rampolli officiated, a stringed orchestra assisted, and the ceremonies were

[p.59]

most impressive. There is a statue made from the corpse of the saint as it was found. The head is face down showing the impression in the neck where she was struck three times. She died three days later and when she could no longer speak, she proclaimed her faith by extending one finger in one hand and three in the other, signifying the Trinity. Her hands were found thus.

Saturday 23

We left Rome this morning at 10.15 and arrived in Napoli

[p.60]

on time!! Truly wonderful. Such excitement, for an hour or so, we were being kidnapped and did not know it. The cab drivers are extortionists and the beggars are like flies in summer. Went for the mail and think we will like the place.

Sunday 24

Attended church in Saint Theresa’s, Dominican friars, and went to the park while mother watched the fishing on the Bay.

[p.61]

Monday 25

We got an insight into the shopping district and spent the afternoon sewing. Vesuvius looks frowningly in our window as she smoked all day and the glow is visible at night.

Tuesday 26

Went to Pompeii with two other English ladies. A long ride on the trolley through cultivated swamps, etc. We found the assistance of a guide unnecessary. We spent the whole morning

[p.62]

visiting the House of Marcus Lucretius, that of the Drunken Faun, and the streets. We went to the Grand Theater and sitting in the peanut gallery of that ancient edifice ate our lunch – hard boiled eggs and sandwiches, such a desecration. – The temples of Jove & Isis are near this and the small theatre where the women were never allowed to go. In the Grand Theater they occupied the highest part, back of Iron

[p.63]

grated windows. In the Arena some sixty skulls were found and one had been chained to a post. The Museum in Naples and the small one at Pompeii contain all these things.

The House of the Tragic Poet, which Lord Lytton in his “Last Days of Pompeii” tells of, is smaller than many and although it contains some of the finest frescoes is not what an enthusiast would wish. The House of the Vetii [sic, i.e. Vettii] is the joy of the day’s visit. It remains “in

[p.64]

situ” with great iron sheets on either side of the door and the kitchen utensils, some chairs and the frescoes in very good condition. This is no place for a minister and in some places for us, human person at all. The plan of the houses is just as we have so often read of, the baths, dining room, garden, and bedrooms. The wine[?] presses are mysteries. We spent the whole day here and feel we must come again to study more the

[p.65]

Forum and the Temples of Apollo, etc.

Wednesday [November 27]

Roamed about through the shopping district and found them very poor except in some specialties and luxuries. In the afternoon we took the most delightful tram ride to Posillipo [sic, i.e. Posilippo], Naples’ fashionable suburb. It rises on a huge cliff from the sea where Virgil’s supposed tomb is, and the view is fine over fertile valleys on the one side and the bay of

[p.66]

Naples on the other.

At the “Rotucuda,”[?] a huge name for a little thatched roofed shanty where delicious chocolate is served and the peasants dance the fancy jigs of the country. The sun sank gloriously into a bed of crimson and sapphire and we felt sad and when [sic, probably meant went] home.

Thursday 28

At one five p.m. we left the Central station for Castelamare, [sic, also spelled Catel-a-Mare] a flourishing town on the bay to the East and south of Napoli. We

[p.67]

were delighted with our prospect of seeing the renowned Sorrento, but the greatest joy was in the realization. Taking the train at Castelamare we revelled [sic] for an hour in the most delightful scenery ever painted. The road winding on and ever upward to a high cliff over the sea, and there stands Sorrento the birth place of Tasso. The scene from the hotel at sundown is never to be forgotten. [The poet Torquato Tasso was born in Sorrento on March 11, 1544. He died in Rome in 1595.]

[p.68]

Friday 29

Two strong Sorrentinis bargained to row us over to the island of Capri in two hours. It has been a beautiful calm day and the Bay like vari-colored glass. We took our chances in the small boat and although the minutes soon made nearly three hours, we were glad to land. The pleasant exaggerations of time and distances must be expected. Such is the desire of any and all Italians to say the

[p.69]

polite and agreeable that Truth suffers. The fish and sea gulls chased our boat and in the clear water we could see these immense fish darting back and forth and jumping out of the water in glee. One of the oarsmen, a strong young Sorrentini of fine face, displayed his muscle and strength to you and told us of what he could do for us if we would take him to America – as a servant. We soon lost sight of Marion Crawford’s villa and

[p.70]

yacht to pass the old Roman castels [sic] and Thermae. [note: The American writer F. Marion (Francis Marion) Crawford lived in Sorrento, in the Villa Crawford.]

The Grande Marina reached and our luggage deposited in the Hotel, we went for a walk up the hill towards Capri, a quaint town on the saddle of the island.

The coccherii [coachmen] followed us and bargained and we got in and had the most glorious ride ever recorded. At Anacapri the Bella Vista and the pretty little girl were found. Such jolly drivers, begging for their

[p.71]

“macheroni”(sic, i.e. maccheroni, or macaroni) and laughing us to scorn. We enjoyed every moment of this and were tired as we went to bed. We went very near to Tiberius’ villa and the rock where according to his whim he dashed[?] his companions off into Eternity on the rocks and sea below. Not in all our travels have we seen more strikingly handsome people – fine faces and figures and remarkable – no beggars. At dinner we excelled all former records – the spaghetti was

[p.72]

too good.

Saturday 30

Such an unearthly hour to rise in Capri – Five am and dark as can be. Only the lights from the boat gave any sign of life at that hour. We went stumbling down to the wharf where the queerly clad natives and fishermen moved stealthily in the dark, like shadows. We embarked in a little craft that could not be described by the single lantern light in the hold – and the brawny[?] seaman might have

[p.73]

been Ajax had we only forgotten to pinch[?] ourselves to be assured of mortality.

At the various landing places, Sorrento, Castelamare, etc., the rugged fisherman came to the boat and sold to agents from Napoli their fish, lovely, fresh, sparkling catches. He bargained by the basket and talked in loud sonorous voices at the low prices. A beautiful memory of these two days will always remain with us.

Sunday Dec. 1^st

Attended Mass in the Chiesa Santa Theresa where the

[p.74]

Carmelite monks reside. They wear a white cap on their heads which is thrown back as a cowl during the solemn parts of the Mass.

We called very informally on Father Marra of Denver, once the Provincial of the Western division of the Jesuits. He is now President of the College in Naples, in the suburbs, really far, and such a time as we had in finding him. He was very cordial and gave us a

[p.75]

personal letter to Father Braudi[?] in Rome. When we returned the coccherii troubled us so about maccheroni we didn’t give him [illegible] - well such insults. He [illegible] to stick to the first bargain and followed us in grand wrath down the [smeared word] yelling like mad. A police called to settle the difficulty could not understand and was just about to make us pay more when some Englishman offered his services and

[p.76]

the coccherii faded into the street. He had been misrepresenting it to him, the police. We had a good experience and the wrath of such a Neapolitan is too funny for words. We reached home and told how narrowly we escaped being put into jail!

Monday 2

We did our shopping today and found it beyond the power of Americans to find lisle thread stockings, nothing but silk or such

[p.77]

heavy cheap cotton ones as were useless. The clerk explained the Neapolitans wore silk or none. Mrs. Vincent left for Marseilles, but not before she fell into a predicament. Standing on the dock she did not notice the arm of the derrick move and the rope under her feet, so she was carried up astride it and dangled for a short space before a man relieved the situation. She enjoyed the laugh however when she found herself safe again.

A light drizzle has set in and

[p.78]

we fear for our plans tomorrow as we want to go to Vesuvius.

Tuesday 3^rd

Rain! Rain! Rain! It has simply flooded us – unable to venture out. Mother has plied her needle industriously and Helen her paint brush.

Wednesday 4^th

After a stormy night the sun was periodical in its shining, but it has rained all afternoon.

Thursday 5^th

Such a day to record. We

[p.79]

have all agreed that fifteen francs were nearly wasted in the attempt to see Vesuvius. Yes that is what Cooks charge and that is not all that must be spent. They simply give you a push and you do the rest. Mother walked from the carline up to the crater, fully three miles and up hill, very steep in places. The view from the electric road is magnificent, the entire bay guarded by Ichia [sic, i.e. Ischia] and Capri and Naples with it yellow walls and

[p.80]

red roofs glittering in the bright sun. The road makes an ascent of 35 percent, a cog is used for safety and an extra car with batteries in the steep places, no cable however. Most of the road was destroyed by the eruption in 1906 and some has not yet been repaired. We all fell into bed, I can’t tell you.

Friday 6^th

Made our train for Rome at 10 am and were very grieved at leaving Napoli,

[p.81]

even for the grander Rome. We located Father Braudi and enjoyed a walk up the Via Sistina, the street of ladies shops.

Saturday [Dec. 7^th]

Spent the whole forenoon in the Vatican Sculpture Gallery, a feast for artists truly, and all those interested. The Apollo Belvedere has made us rave as everyone else who goes there. The Venetian garden of Bernini and the gardens of the Vatican. The long beauti-

[p.82]

ful Library with its historical frescoes and the numerous gifts to Pio Nono [Pius IX] and Leo XIII from the different crowned heads, vases, tables and jeweled statues.

Father Braudi gave us a letter to the Majordomo by which we will have an audience with Pope Pius X. Such red tape, to present even a letter. We were the first [illegible] and it took only a few minutes. Such a scramble for black clothes. One must dress in black and wear a

[p.83]

black veil when presented. The gentlemen are in full dress.

Sunday the 8th

Oh such celebrations last night in honor of the fiesta, shouting that passed as singing on the street, during the whole night, hoarse voices and loud clapping of hands. [Dec. 8 is the feast of the Immaculate Conception, and it was perhaps this which was being celebrated the night before.]

We attended Mass in the Gesu and Holy Communion from a Cardinal, a dear old man with finely carved features.

We visited the Pantheon, containing the tombs of the

[p.84]

beloved Victor Emmanuel II and Humbert I, always covered with flowers. Raphael too has a very simple monument there. Card. Consalvi, too. This church was built originally in the time of Agustus [sic, i.e. Augustus], but dedicated as a church in 609. Massive bronze doors of ancient origin still close the door, the only light is from a large whole [sic, i.e. hole] in the center of the ceiling. In a piazza near is the Church of Santa Maria built on the temple of Minerva founded by Domitian. The charm of the

[p.85]

church is Michael Angelo’s “Christ with the Cross,” with a brass foot.

The Church of the Gesu is the richest church in Rome. The altar to Saint Ignatius is of lapis lazuli and bronze. The vesper service we attended was most imposing.

Monday 9^th

Mother succeeded in purchasing a black waist today near the Colonna. If the Pope could guess of all this trouble over black clothes he would come to see us and be done with it.

We went to the Capitoline

[p.86]

Museum, Conservatori, and the Tabularium, all these on the cap of the Capitoline hill that leads down to the Forum. At the foot of the hill is the Mammertine [sic, i.e. Mamertine] prison where Saints Peter and Paul were imprisoned.

This afternoon we went to the Quirinal palace with a special permission. It is beautiful and the frescoes are modern. This is the palace when Pio Nono fled to Frascati in 1848.

We went to Santa Maria

[p.87]

Maggiore where the Borghese chapel is, a very large church and “grandileqious” in style. Trajan’s[?] Forum was on our return to Piazza Venezia and the Baths of Caracalla.

Tuesday 10

Spent the morning waiting for a summons from the Vatican but it did not arrive so we went to the Barberini palace now used by the Spanish ambassador to the Quirinal. Here the collection is small but has some treasures. Raphael’s “Fornarina” and Guido’s “Beatrice Cenci,” Andrea del

[p.88]

Sarto’s “Holy Family,” Ghirlandajo’s “Holy Stable.”

In the afternoon we went to the Borghese Gallery. Some of the finest pieces are closed for repairs, but we enjoyed what we saw there. Pauline Borghese’s statue by Canova, half-reclining on a couch. Also Canova’s Apollo and Daphne [the diarist probably meant Bellini’s statue on this subject]. Raphael’s Entombment [the diarist probably meant the work more commonly called “The Deposition”]. Titian’s “Amor sagro e profano” a great work. Carlo Dolci is well represented here. The villas is most beautiful and extensive – reproductions of ancient temples and fountains.

[p.89]

San Lorenzo outside the walls [San Lorenzo fuori le Mura] was well worth the trouble to get there, the tomb of Pius Ninth is the most exquisite monument of its kind in the world. The tomb itself is very humble in appearance, but the entire wall is set with gold mosaic and precious stones. Scenes from his life are pictured in mosaic, beautiful pictures. All the nations have contributed to this tomb. The campo santo is next the cloister here, where we had a peep through the wall but were not allowed to go

[p.90]

inside. At San Giovanni at Laterani [sic, i.e. Saint John Lateran] the cloister is beyond description. The daintiest[?] pillars hold the portico – and an old carved well in the middle of the court. The Baptistery [sic] and Scala Santa are very interesting.

Wednesday 11

Made a supreme effort to get to the Vatican on time. The Aurora of Guido Reni at the Rospigleosa Palace [sic, i.e. Palazzo Pallavicini-Rospigliosi] is the record of today – such coloring. This alone makes Guido great.

[p.91]

The visit to Pope Pius X is a very impressive service. I say service for it is almost in that class. We went through long halls guarded by the Swiss guards in their vari-colored costumes., like the jesters in children’s picture books. Then into the vestibule where servants in scarlet robes took off our cloaks and escorted us to a large room where the people gathered. We waited until the hour of twelve when all the clocks struck and such chimes! Music everywhere. There were so few of us that

[p.92]

we were taken into a small room and a gay spirited old man came in to us and spoke so naturally and was very simple. Hard to believe that this little man robed in white is the king of so many million souls.

The academy of Saint Luke is full of modern treasures – this is the “saloon” [sic] of Italy and contains works of Raphael, Tarquin and Lucretia by Titian. Pio Joris, the president of the academy now has some admirable work. One the inter-

[p.93]

ior of the Gesu on Holy Thursday has taken the prize in Paris.

We called on Father Braudi and gave him a boquet [sic] of the grandest roses, and paid the enormous price of twenty cents for two dozen!!

The last of Rome was on the Capitoline. The church of the Aracoeli, the Tarpejan [sic, i.e. Tarpeian] rock, and the Roman wolves. It is hard to leave this (this) eternally old and ever new city of gods.

Thursday 12

We left Rome at 9.00 a.m. this morning for the

[p.94]

city beautiful – and my! What a restful place this is – not however until we had gone through the usual “fight” with the Pension director.

The trip was through Sienna and Perugio and also through a pelting rain. Florence seems beautiful even though the people are carrying umbrellas and the house tops dripping.

We have found a gem of a pensione and will loath to leave it for even

[p.95]

an apartment of our own.

“Curses on this pen and ink!!” I am trying my best to make this “readable” to the “Prohibitionist” and hope I may succeed. But everyone knows the direful effect on one’s disposition when troubled as I am this minute. I must call myself to order and as we are all tired “[illegible] me to the feathers.”

Friday [Dec. 13]

What lovely meals! And such a clean city. Only the

[p.96]

most extravagant superlatives have been used all day. Geneva must now assume second place.

The mail came in bunches and we have had callers from Paris, Dr. Mitchell and Mr. G[illegible]. [see also entry for November 4, where both these men are mentioned.]

We have been on the house hunt and find it not an easy task even in Florence. We went to the store room with a young fellow from Cooks and enjoyed his surprise as we enlightened to him the

[p.97]

depths of an American girl’s trunk.

Saturday 14

We have enjoyed the shop windows and the street life emmensely. [sic] The house house [sic] question is settled. We are to take an apartment belonging to Mr. Levick, an American artist of long residence in Florence. [note: possibly Richard Levick] The studio is large and full of light (&)[?] with a dear little balcony over the swift flowing Arno, in close proximity to the Ponte

[p.98]

Vecchio.

We have “gotten the lay of the land” as it were and know now the principal streets of Florence. The highways and byways are to be unfolded later.

Sunday [Dec. 15]

After Mass we walked across the river to the Pitti Palace. In proportion this gallery contains more of the really grand art production in the world. Raphael the guardian artist of Florence is

[p.99]

ubiquitous and ever present. Andrea del Sarto is almost as well represented. But there is so much time[?] for each of these treasures in particularization, that I cannot but wonder at the collection in general.

The day has been exquisite, redeeming the past four days of almost constant rain.

Monday 16

We find ourselves installed in the most comfortable apartment one can wish for. There are ten rooms and a stove in

[p.100]

every room. The piano and studio are two charming acquisitions. Mrs. Levick is lovely and so kind to help us start the ball rolling. The place is full of dear antiques and Mother requires only a comfortable bed, as she says, so her heart is delighted. The vocal question is now the great subject and Babe is running the gauntlet.

Tuesday 17

Oh my how lovely it is to unpack and place away all the comfortable clothes we

[p.101]

have denied ourselves as travelers for the last two months.

The trunks came by grande vetesse [sic] in just ten days from Paris. The shopping was full of new sources of laughter and surprise. In contrast to the Neapolitan shops, these are very clean and the dealers just, they don’t overcharge and often[?] add a little with a laugh, telling you how pretty you are.

The first day of housekeeping in Florence is over and “all’s well.”

[p.102]

Wednesday 18

The vocal question is settled, Signor Parvesi is the man, an old maestro of former fame and Florentine renown.

Mother has hugged the stove and given order all day.

We have taken our Italian lesson and hope to be talking by the end of a month!

The excitement of a fire in the same house was most bewildering. Not being able to understand what the wild gesticulations meant we returned to the drawing room and set calmly

[p.103]

there writing until Mrs. Levick returned to tell us of it. Poor soul, she was frightened silly as she came along the Lung’ Argno to see flames coming from the roof of her house and two men on the roof working with it. The “marquise,” oh didn’t I tell of it, why goodness me, there is a real Marquis living here in the same house on the first piano. He has servants who attend to the hall-light, etc. – well love me! But if it wasn’t his chimney piece that

[p.104]

was burning out.

Thursday 19

Shopping still! Such a pleasant pastime, for such it is here, a pleasure to go among these whole souled people who cheat you with a naughty twinkle in their eyes. Bargaining, uno soldo, ah! No, due soldi! Yes, this is one and two pennies mind. I can buy for it a nice mess of turnips or carrots or any other such vegetable.

[p.105]

Friday 20

Upon receiving the mail, received a card from Mrs. Vincent and she reached here to-night at 6 p.m. Rain all day. Enjoyed our dinner, the more the merrier.

Saturday 21

Out early to give Lady Vincent a general view of dear old Florence. Did the shopping for Sunday, things are so so cheap here.

Sunday 22

Mrs. Vincent & old gentleman Mr. Cohell[?] and myself drove all over Florence, then dined at the Bristol Hotel. Mr. C leaves in the a.m.

Monday 23

Out to a lesson bright & early, then went back at 2 p.m. to hear an elegant

[p.106]

Voice, very poor girl, but a mighty rich voice.

Tuesday 24

Day before Christmas. Mrs. Vincent and I bought our Christmas tree and all our gifts. Had quite a time getting the tree into the house. Trimed [sic] it in Mrs. V. room after all went in bed.

Wednesday 25

Christmas day. We had our tree sitting gloriously on the breakfast table. Had quite a little fun with our jokes and gifts. All went to High Mass at the

[p.107]

Annunciati where the music was grand. I took a lesson at 11 just the same.

Thur. 26

Italian lesson, vocal lesson and art, most all work these days.

Friday 27

Work. I got a new accompanist to help me with my Italian songs.

Saturday 28

Rain most every day this week and still we work.

Sunday 29

Rain all day.

Monday 30

Began with week well. Rain all day.

Tuesday 31

Still 1907. Must get our

[p.108]

1908 callenders [sic] out, and it’s leap year too.

Wednesday Jan. 1^st ‘08

Well, we had a grand big turkey dinner and so celebrated the New Year by communion.

Thursday Jan. 2^nd

A beautiful sunny day, the first we have had for sometime. Working on.

Friday 3^rd

Sun shine continues and all is well.

Saturday 4^th

Sun shine. Went to Silver smiths, bought silver tea spoons.

Sunday 5th

Sunshine but very much colder. I spent the night

[p.109]

with tooth ache. Went to American dentist, Dr. Dunn, said he came over with Noah, lovely old man.

Monday 6^th

The wind let up so the day has been ideal. Mother went to the Dumo, Helen to Annunciate, grand singing both places.

Tuesday 7^th

Bought some lovely gowns, Helen a blue, Mother bown & mine pink.

Thursday 16^th

A peaceful fog all over Florence.

Friday 17^th

Fog gets worse, haven’t had one for 10 years.

Saturday [Jan. 18]

Still worse. Can’t see a block ahead of you.

[p.110]

Sunday 19^th

Fog sorta [sic] clearing up. Sun looks like the moon. Went to Santa Croce to Mass, then went through the church. Tomb of Michael Angelo & grand old monument to Dante, excellent frescoes all restored. Also visited the beautiful cloisters.

- On San Michele a very dark old church, some lovely frescos and reliefs from History.

- San Lorenzo. The monument to the Medici family and the Medici chapel gorgeously decorated with marble and mosaics in stones and the burial chapel of the grand dukes of Tuscany.

[p.111]

San Marco – a church of the Dominican monastery connecting, decorated by Fra Gion Angelico do Fiesole [sic]. The fresco’s [sic] for deep religious feeling are unsurpassed. The Annunciation in the upper hall is my favorite.

Santa Croce, an old Gothic church for the Franciscans, but very modern façade.

Tuesday March 3

Marta Gran, grand festa. [Mardi Gras]

April [no date]

Chertosa, an old monastery where only 15

[p.112]

monks are left. The famous liquor is made there.

April 1^st

Out to Daddy’s villa with a crowd of 25, Mrs. D, Mr. Moloney, Mr. Keniston[?], Constance, etc., beautiful day.

April 10^th

Left Florence on 10:30 train. Mrs. Ernst, Constance, & Mr. Moloney to see us off. Intended getting off at Bologna but decided not to. Come on to Venice, arrived at 8 p.m. and got settled in the Casa Patrarca.

Saturday 11^th

Out[?], took Terry to St. Marcs. Met Mrs. Vincent. Went over to St. Gorgeo on the Island, then home through the shopping streets to lunch. After lunch we went through St. Marks and to see about our tickets and took a 2 hour gondola ride. After dinner Cooks man brought tickets over & we bought through to

[p.113]

Paris as planned.

Sunday 12^th

To Church to a peculier [sic] old church, then to the Academy and Palace of the Doges. In the Academy the famous Assumption by Tiziano [i.e. Titian], in the Doges the largest canvas in the world under repairs. To Church. All rested until 3, then to tea at “Florians” on Piazza St. Marco to hear the band & see the people. After dinner a beautiful gondola ride with an American fellow from the Casa.

Monday 13^th

After the mail then took the boat to the “Lido,” then a gondola to the Armenian monastery, where a great deal of printing is done and in 36 languages, an ideal old spot where Byron wrote for 6 months. After lunch we went over to the wonderful glass factory where I saw my first glass blower [or blown], then a gondola ride and home for dinner. Out to the Savoy

[p.114]

to hear the Neapolitan singing. Home at 11:30 p.m. At 12 Mrs. McI called me. Mother ill. Sorta fish poison. She was ill for 2 hours so we sent for a Dr. He quieted her and after 5 hours she got quiet, so I got to sleep about 3 a.m.

Tuesday 14^th

Mother remained n bed all day, very weak. Went shopping in the a.m. then packed in afternoon. Left Venice at 8 p.m. on a small boat for Fiume. Boat rolled all night & all were sick.

Wednesday 15^th

Arrived in Fiume at 6:30 a.m. and left on train for Buda Pest at 8. Lovely dining car, best coffee I’ve had since I left home. On train all day. Mrs. Ewer not very well. Arrived in B.P. at 10 p.m., strait [sic] to Hotel Bristol.

Thursday 16^th

After good nights rest all felt better. After breakfast I went out to see about Pension but find there are none in Buda Pest so

[p.115]

got the Hotel man down to 7.50 per day. Sent for Dr. for Mrs. Ewer & kept her in bed all day. She is feeling better towards night. Mrs. McIntire, Mother & myself took in the city. And such a beautiful city, just a live city with beautiful shops, large streets and beautifully dressed people, fine looking men & women. After dinner Mrs. Mc & I started for the theatre but found it too late, show was half over. Met an old lady who showed us the way & she told us she had a son in America.

Friday 17th

Mrs. Mc woke up with a very bad cold & sore throat so as Helen is on the [illegible]. They all stayed here at home while Mother and I went out and saw the city. Good Friday.

Saturday 18^th

Mother and I spent the a.m. looking around, went to the Cathedral, etc. After lunch, Mrs. Mc, Helen & Mother & I went across bridge, up railroad, to the Palace, grand beautiful view.

[p.116]

Had tea on the Danube. After dinner Mrs., Helen & I went to cofe [sic, i.e. coffee?] house to hear Hungarian Band, which was fine.

Easter Sunday 19^th

Went to Mass at Cathedral, where they had music to parsarol[?] to Mass prayers. Never heard such a Mass, just fine. Decided to leave Buda Pest at 6. Ordered dinner at 5. Took the boat at 6 p.m., spent the night on the Danube.

Monday 20^th

A long trip, but we had a good lunch and did not mind it. About 2 p.m. we passed Hainburg where the castle stands where King Attila stayed one night. Arrived in Vienna at 5 p.m., spent a good hour looking for a pension, finally settled at “Internatiole,”[?] 33 Wahringerstrasse. All went to bed early.

Thursday 21^st

Up early and down to

[p.117]

Cooks for mail, thence to Post Office and shopping until 12. After lunch got Opera tickets. Saw[?] big theatre. Took a ride around the city. After dinner decided to go to theatre so saw a variety[?] show and very good. Instead of an orchestra there were tables all around. One sat & had a glass of beer.

Wednesday 23^rd

Tried to get into the treasury but found it locked. Shopped and find Vienna muchly more expensive than other places. After lunch took the car to the cemetery where we visited the graves of the musicians Edward Bach, died Feb. 8, 1884, Wagner, died March 13, 1884, victims of Ring theater in 1881,

Johan Hillacker died 1877

Frank Suppé died 1890

W. A. Mozart Dec. 5, 1791

Beethoven died 1888 [sic]

Frank Schubert 1888 [sic]

[p.118]

Hugo Wolf died M.C.M.III [1903].

Adolph Muller died 1886.

Konizark[?] died 1905. John [sic] Strauss 1899.

Brahms 1897. All to bed early.

[Note: The Emersons visited the Zentralfriedhof, the Central Cemetery in Vienna, which opened in 1874. Over 600 people died in the fire at the Ring Theatre in Vienna in December 1881. Composer Franz von Suppé actually died on May 21, 1895. Mozart was not buried in this cemetery, but possibly it contains a monument in his memory. The graves of Beethoven (d.1827) and Schubert (d.1828) were moved to this cemetery in 1888. Hugo Wolf died on Feb. 22, 1903. Adolph Muller died on July 29, 1886. Johann Strauss the younger died on June 3, 1899. Johannes Brahms died on April 3, 1897. The transcriber was not able to identify Edward Bach, Johan Hillacker, Konizark, or a Wagner who died in 1884 (Richard Wagner died in 1883 and was buried in Bayreuth, Germany).]

Thursday 23^rd

Over to see the picture gallery but found it closed, so then to see the Crown Jewels, which were gorgeous. After dinner, for we have been having dinner at 1 these days, we rested. Bought lunch which we didn’t really need as Frau Bullu[?] presented us with a lovely lunch. Had money changed. Had lunch early and attended Opera at 7 p.m., Madame Butterfly, wonderful production.

Friday 24^th

Left Vienna at 10 a.m. Spent all day passing the most beautiful farming districts and such beautiful snow-topped mountains. Arrived

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Munich at 8 p.m., direct to Pension Finckle[?] and found it lovely.

Saturday 25^th

Up early and out to the New Pinakothek Gallery of Modern Art and has some very lovely things. Then on no. 2 for a car ride which circled the city. After dinner (and a good one too) drove to see Cooks agent, thence to the church of St. Michael built in 1583. Contains monument of Eugene Beauharnais, once Vice King of Italy. Then through the business streets, another car ride & home. Supper at 7:30, then to a beer garden to hear some German music (not so good).

Sunday 26^th

Breakfast early. Then to the Basilica of St. Boniface, the monument to Lewis I. The old Pinakotheck, ten [possible two] rooms of Rubens, a great number of van Dykes,

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and two of Carlo Dolci. I liked very much. After lunch it rained so I slept and all remained in all afternoon. After dinner went to Beer Gargen [sic] to hear an excellent concert, just fine.

Monday 27^th

Up early and out to the Gylptothek, a repository of sculpture. Being the King’s birthday, standing on the corner 5 minutes 6 bands went by in full uniform. Left on the 12:32 train for Nürnberg, arrived at 4 p.m., went to Htoel Wurthemberger Hof. Took car ride around the town walls. Had dinner and to bed early.

Tuesday 28^th

Went to all the stores and find this place very stylish & good shops. After lunch took car ride to Furth, little city and a very beautiful one. Then up to the Burg or Castle. All through the castle. Last

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King’s visit was in 1905, first 1080. Saw 5 cornered[?] tower with all instruments of torture. Deep well, 335. Last mass said in chapel in 1866. Very much like Castle of Schion[?]. Grand old place. Big old stones in each room. Walked home past the old Rathaus market place. After dinner to a beautiful concert adjoining the opera house. Fine.

Wednesday 29^th

Up early and out to Rothenberg on the 8.00[?] train. Had three changes before arriving in Rothenberg at 11:45. Had a lovely dinner at main hotel. Strolled around through Rathhouse [sic, i.e. Rathaus] which is so picturesque, then the old Lutheran church, once Catholic. The beautiful old streets, houses and gate ways are alone worthy of traveling many, many miles to see. The view of old double[?] bridge is superb. Returned to the station, took the 4:18 for Nurmberg, arriving at 7 p.m. After a lovely dinner, for we did have good dinners in Nurmberg,

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we retired early.

Thursday 30^th

Up early and took train for Dresden at 9:20 a.m., expecting to go by way of Bamberg. After an hours ride, the conductor have informed us (in German) we should get off the next station. We expected a change at New Market [i.e. Neumarkt] but the station sign read Lichenfelds [i.e. Lichtenfels] and after Mother, Helen & Mc were off, the conductor said not to get off, and with them on the ground, Mrs. Ewer & myself on the train, the train started. Mrs. Mc began to scream. In the midst of excitement he stopped the train, where they got all off and on another train bond [i.e. bound?] for Hof. Upon arriving at Hof, we were obliged to change again, and on to a

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train taking us clear on to Dresden, where we arrived at 7 pm. First to Pension Goldo[?], then not being satisfied to Frau Schamberger, 25 L[illegible] St., which pleased us very much & we all decided it the very pension we [sic] been in.

Friday, 1^st of May

All curious about Dresden being free day we visited the wonderful picture gallery in which we saw the Sistine Madonna which certainly is all we hear of it. So many beautiful works of Rembrant [sic, i.e. Rembrandt], van Dyke, Murrillo. The rooms of modern art are also very fine. We found the Palace and grounds very beautiful, with budding trees and flowers. Met Helen Cooper and her friend. Took street car out to a suburb [or superb] little town. Took

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cog rail way up mountain to see Dresden from distance, which was beautiful. Helen came to supper with us and we all went to opera to hear two new plays, one Sruhluigawelt[?], then the last “Les précieuses ridicules,” which was extremely good and well sung.

Saturday 2^nd

Morning over to the Green Volt to see the royal jewels, which I found not so fine or extensive as Vienna, but fine collection of bronze statues and such. Thence to the china stores where we [illegible] in Dresden china. After dinner Helen & her friend came again and we went to the Palace or summer home of the king called the Japanese Palace, with beautiful gardens.

Sunday 3^rd

To Mass to the Royal chapel in hopes of seeing the

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King but he was not present. After Mass another round at the picture gallery, then home. After dinner we ordered a carriage and drove through Swiss[?] quarters, villas away up on the hill, then to Helen’s for tea and home for supper.

Monday 4^th

Out to take in the shops. Did some purchasing. After lunch took a car ride out to the Grosser Gardens, on the same style as Bois in Paris. Packed all evening and to bed early.

Tuesday 5^th

Left Dresden 9:10 am, quite an interesting ride to Berlin, arriving at 4 pm. After getting rooms, we started out to see the city. We found it very large and imposing, so grand, one of the finest cities I’ve

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ever seen, buildings so emense [sic] and grand. We took car out to Carlottenburg [i.e. Charlottenburg] were we visited the castle or palace and the mausoleum where Queen Louise and her husband Frederick William II repose, a beautiful tomb in a beautiful park. As we were all tired, we went to bed early.

Wednesday 6^th

Feeling fine and the sun was really shining early in the morning. We went to museums, the old and new, thence into National Picture Gallery of Modern Art, which I think the finest modern gallery I’ve seen. I thought the one in Munich fine, but I found the Berlin one finer. The old gallery in Berlin also very fine. From these into the Der[?] kerche[?], the king’s chapel, which has three of the most beautiful stained glass windows I’ve ever seen, the tombs of [blank space in diary]

After lunch we drove to Under der Linden. [sic, i.e. Unter den Linden] Got information as to train, expecting to take

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a long ride when he [sic] poured rain all afternoon, so we took auto home.

Thursday 7th

Up real early. Took 9 a.m. train for Potsdam, arrived at 11 a.m., took carriage and drove to all the beautiful palaces, first to the new palace, thence to Sanssouci [sic, i.e. Sans-Souci] built by Frederick the Great. Every thing is there untouched and a most interesting sight. The great fountain, just beautiful grounds. Then to Royal Mill taken from an old [word omitted here – probably man] who would not sell it. Then on a drive through the grounds and near the Orangery Palace, Charlottenhof, Temple of Friendship, which were each beautiful. Then past the Old Palace, Marble Palace and to the New Chapel and mausoleum where William IV and wife repose, parents of present king.

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Took 2 trains for Berlin. After lunch we visited the stores, then took auto through “Tiergarten,” on the same order as the Bois.

Friday 8^th

Left Berlin at 8 a.m. for Frankfurt, a beautiful old town, a real home city, where one would love to live. Took carriage around the city. So many beautiful homes and parks, a beautiful opera house, theatre, city squares & parks.

Saturday 9^th

Took 8 am train for Beabrick[?], then street car and finally boat down the Rhine. Part of the day was beautiful, but had quite a rain before reaching Cologne. Passed all the sentinel[?] castles of the Rhine, which to me the Mouse tower seems most beautiful. Arrived Cologne at 5 p.m., had dinner, and retired.

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Sunday 10^th

Attended Mass in the Cologne Cathedral, quite an old historic place, somewhat like the Milan but not so large. Dined at the Savoy, then took train ride across the city & over the bridge, out to a suburban town where we saw 10 balloons in mid air at the same time, sailing along, very lovely. Returned. Went into the art gallery, which doesn’t amount to much, except the beautiful picture of Queen Louise. Bought lunch for the train next day as we were told no dinner.

Monday 11^th

Up early. Took train out of Cologne 10:06 for Amsterdam. Oh! What a difference in the German and Dutch conductors. How nice the Dutch treat one and most

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all of them spoke some English. Arrived Amsterdam 2 p.m. Hotel Bible very good. Out to see the city. Dined at a quaint place in the Garden.

Tuesday 12^th

Up early and down to the boat for Marken where we saw all the old Dutch costumes and such quaint houses, so clean, so small, 11 & 12 live in two rooms, and in winter all live up stairs as island is under water for weeks. They are all fisherfolks and about the only place retains the old clothes & there are Postestan.[? i.e. Protestant?] Then to Monnikendam, a Catholic settlement, where the white lace cap is worn. Then another village to see the oldest

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church in Holland and the rich & poor separate. Rich sit in stalls built in 12 hundred. Then on boat through canal back to Amsterdam at 4.25. Out for a good dinner & to the Hotel as all were tired.

Wednesday 13^th

Up early and over to Ryks Museum [i.e. Rijksmuseum], an excellent picture gallery, a beautiful room of Rembrandt, his famous Night Watch picture. [two illegible words] decided to leave Amsterdam and on to Haarlem. Left at 3:10, had two hours in Haarlem. Took car ride around the city, found it a beautiful city, town so clean with beautiful parks and beautiful homes, little square in the center of the city, has a picturesque town house, meat market, and an old church.

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On to The Hague. Located in a very nice hotel, out for a ride and dinner and bed early as everyone was tired.

Thursday 14^th

Found the Hague very interesting, in fact a grand city. Visited picture gallery, took the car out [to – omitted] Scheveningen, a summer resort, all was quiet though as it was early. Back and had lunch. Then to the palace, through the town hall.

Friday 15^th

Up and out on beautiful rides. After lunch took in museum, then dinner, and took 5:30 train for Antwerp, arriving at 8.

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Saturday 16^th

At Hotel de L’Europe. Out and up to the market, through the Hotel de la Ville, a beautiful old place on an artistic little[?] square. Took car ride around the city. Some went to the “zoo,” to the picture gallery, lace shop, and through the beautiful church of Notre Dame where are the two finest works of Rubens, the Descent from the Cross, which to me is the finest picture I’ve seen. On the other side Elevation of the Cross, and so many of his works. Down the St. Jacques where is

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Rubens chapel and his tomb. Left Antwerp in afternoon for Brussels.

Sunday 17^th

Up and to Mass at a quaint old church. Then to the Modern Gallery, an excellent one, one of the best after Berlin & Dresden. In afternoon out to see flower and race parade, then to Bois where we watched the drive.

Monday [May 18]

To the old picture gallery, than a circular ride around Brussels. After lunch Hotel de la Ville and the Cathedral.

Tuesday 19^th

Mother and I left Brussels at 8.21 for Paris, other folks came on 12 train. Paris, back to Per[illegible], but no room so over to No. 9 Cité di Pit[illegible]. Met folks at 5.

Wednesday 20^th

Mrs. McIntyre’s birthday. Lovely sunshine and mighty warm so all shed coats. So folks washed their hair while Helen and I went to look for trunks. Got big one but find we must pay duty on those from Italy. All went shopping to Gallerie Victoria bought

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flowers and looked at suits. Mrs. Ewer presented us with flowers.

Thursday 21^st

Rec’d 21 years old some roses. [sic] Out over to glove shop and millinery shop, thence to Pantheon, but it will be closed for 20 days, so to the Museum de Cluny. In the afternoon went to Hotel des Invalides where Napoleon tomb is visited. Also the Museé Historique, so many interesting old remembrances of N. I and all things from his army. It rained so we all came home.

Friday 22^nd

Took the hats over to be trimmed, thence to the lingerie store on 18 Rue d’ Senties, then back to lunch. After right out to tailor where we ordered a suit for Helen. Then to Bon Marché shopping, getting home about 7 p.m.

Saturday 23^rd

Took up the boat question and find pretty good boat to Boston on Cunard line sailing 16^th, quite soon, but we can make it. Bought opera tickets for Thais Monday evening, Mary Gardener and Renyard. After lunch Helen and ladies went to Pere Lachaise, Mother & I shopping. Bought her a hat. Talked the boat question over.

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Sunday 24^th

Mass at the Madeleine, beautiful music. After dinner took boat up Seine to St. Cloud, a beautiful ride. Wandered through the garden there, saw the beautiful fountains, took auto back through Boi [sic, i.e Bois] to hotel, a lovely drive.

Monday 25^th

The whole day went wrong. First Mother missed one shoe. Mrs. Ewer found she had lost her diamond pin, but found it again lost an umbrella, then got word of financial doings in El Paso. After lunch went out to see about better hotel. Went

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to opera “Thais,” Renyard and Mary Gardner, fine and a beautiful play.

Tuesday 26^th

Packed our trunks, sent them on to London, kept one here and moved to Hotel D’Angleterre and take meals out, much better. After lunch went to Louvre. Went until we were dead tired, then had dinner and came home.

Wednesday 27^th

Up early, good coffee for breakfast, then ladies went to Versailles. We went to Bon Marche for Helen’s suit. After lunch after my rings[?] & shopping, met folk, had dinner & come home.

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Thursday 28th

All up early & down for the mail. Ladies met Mr. and Mrs. Beg[?], did some shopping, attended to hats. Ladies went to Fontainebleau in afternoon.

Friday 29^th

Looked up rail road tickets all morning and went to see Sara Bernhart [sic, i.e. Bernhardt] in play at Trocharo. Oh! So beautiful, just grand. Waited after the show to see her come out.

Saturday 30^th

Shopped all day.

Sunday 31^st

Left Paris at 10:20 a.m. for London. Had a very lovely passage, not one bit rough. Arrived in London about 7:30.

Monday June 1^st

At the Whitehall, Montague

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St., fine it very lovely.

Road [sic, i.e. Rode] all over London on the buses, then afternoon to Westminster. It is too grand to attempt a description. One must go there to be able to understand. The wonderful Poets Corner, where Browning, Sheakspear, Keets [sic, i.e. Shakespeare and Keats], Scott, Johnson, Longfellow, oh! They are all there. Attended service at 3. Sat in choir and heard boys choir.

Tuesday 2^nd

Ordered our trunks and visited boat offices. Decided to go on Canadian boat & take short trip.

Wednesday 3^rd

Changed our minds and will sail on the Saponia to Boston the 16^th. Ordered tickets for short trip.

Thursday 4^th

Shopped all morning, then in afternoon to Winsor [sic, i.e. Windsor] Castle,

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through the two chapels and state apartments, the finest & richest castle I’ve been through.

Friday 5^th

Through the British Museum. After lunch, up to Mrs. Tauseards [sic, i.e. Madame Tussauds] wax works, the most wonderful in the world, where every noted creature in the world is pictured. To opera “Lucia” sung by Tetrazzini [Luisa Tetrazzini], Sanmarco [Mario Sanmarco] & Bassi [sic], and such a grand affair. Very much disappointed in the wonderful Covent Garden, but the opera & all was grandest I’ve ever witnessed. Tetrazzini is not doubt the classic.[?]

[note: “Lucia di Lammermoor” was the opera performed this evening. Miss Tetrazzini sang the role of Lucia, Sanmarco the roll of Enrico Ashton. Miss Emerson clearly wrote Bassi in her diary, and there was a singer of the time named Amedeo Bassi. However, Covent Garden records list Alessandro Bonci singing the role of Edgardo. Bassi is reported to have been in South America in late May, and therefore could not have been in London on June 5. Other roles were sung by Angela Severina, Giogio Malfatti, Robert Radford, and Dante Zucchi.]

Saturday 6^th

Through the Tate picture gallery, modern art, a

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very pretty place, then to the Parliament building, which is the grandest I’ve been through. The House of Lords and anti-chambers [sic] all so excellent. Then after lunch took the bus to the Tower & London bridge. The wonderful old tower, the room where Queen Mary was prisoner, also Scott & Burns. The spot where Mary was beheaded, the tower where the little princes were killed, and the door way under which they were found some 25 years after. The crown jewels and everything most interesting. Then the wonderful London

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bridge. Back to Cooks to procure tickets, money, etc., for leaving the next day. Found Cooks closing for 3 days holiday. Tickets, money, baggage sent. We wandered home like field hands worn out from the toil of the day.

Sunday June 7^th

After a late breakfast, we started in search of a church. After inquiring of no less than 20 people, each responding “I think I don’t know,” we found one whose walls

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were just hanging together by the help of some props, but found the Mass was just over and the next would be at 11:30 a.m. Decided to go to Saint Paul’s, hear the singing, and return. Upon coming out of Saint Paul’s & inquiring of a policeman, he informed us there was another nearer by, so we hunted for it. Upon inquiring of one lady she answered “why, there is St. Paul’s just up there,” never knowing

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whether St. Paul’s was High, Low, or Catholic. Finally with the help of an old boot black, we found one stuck away back in a corner. We found a solemn high Mass just going on. So after Mass, it being one p.m., we had our lunch & hurried on home to take our train at 3 p.m. Arrived at Warwick at 7 p.m. Found a lovely house to stop where we were the only

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guests. Had such good food, etc. Called “The White House.” We found Warwick such a lovely little village, so quiet & picturesque. Right in the center of the town the Castle of Warwick.

Monday, June 8th

Up early and on our drive at 9 a.m. to Kenilworth. A beautiful drive along the country road, lined with homes. The old Castle was most interesting, all covered

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with vines, where we could stand on the ruins and picture to ourselves all sorts of things. Yes, a grand old spot. After lunch, we visited the Castle of Warwick, another beautiful estate, the Royal Apartments only being shown as Lord and Lady Warwick were in residence with a large house party, the gardens and grounds being grand.

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Then at 2 p.m. we took the coach on to Stratford-on-Avon, a quaint little village. Drove past the little school house where Sheakspear [sic] was education, his old desk and his name on the wall. Then just across the street in a quaint little cottage Marie Corelli is now living, about 45 years old. [Marie Corelli was a popular novelist at the time and also worked to preserve Stratford’s heritage.] Then quite a little way out of the village to the home of Ann Hathaway, which is now kept for visitors.

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After a short visit there we drove on to Sheakspere (as he signs it) house, but not as it was left, rather empty now. Then a beautiful drive along country roads to Warwick.

Tuesday, June 9^th

Had a lovely breakfast and on the 9.56 train. Arrived in Birmingham at 11 a.m. to wait until 12:56 for the fast train to Edinburgh. Arrived at Melrose about 7 p.m., stopped at the Waverly Hotel, and had hard

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beds but good meals.

Wednesday 10^th

First over to Melrose Abby, [sic, i.e. Abbey] a beautiful spot, all tumbled now to ruins but still are found many traces of the grand cathedral, the little chapels lined along each side, the old statues almost worn away, the pile of stones in the center where Sir Walter Scott sat while visiting is [illegible] of the places, the Robert Bruce’s heart being buried

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under the stones, the tomb of Michel Scott the Wisard. [sic, i.e. Wizard] This spot once belonged to the monks, and they ornamented the walls with beautiful [illegible]. The beautiful window, the crown of thorns, is as grand as it ever was. [Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried at Melrose Abbey, although his body was buried elsewhere. Michael Scot, a medieval scholar, philosopher, and mathematician, is buried here. He was interested in alchemy and the occult, and was believed by many to have been a magician or wizard. Sir Walter Scott wrote a poem about the abbey.]

11:30 a.m. we left on carriage for Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter Scott. It stands about 4 miles from the city, a magnificent old castle,

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approached by a long beautiful walk. The interior was most interesting. We entered first into the main hall, decorated with armor of all times and presents to Scotts from the owner. Thence into his library or study, the desk where he wrote most of his works, the old leather chair, the walls lined with books, and the little passage to his room. There also was an exact

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copy of his head taken after death. Also the famous bust of Scott we see so much. Then into his reception room where he entertained his friends and they had meetings of all kinds. This room contained a hest of very valuable articles of Scott’s. One I remember was the cross Queen Mary carried to her execution, part of Napoleon’s coat, a lock of his hair, a

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tumbler used by Burns and many valuable articles. The chair coverings, in fact the whole house, was as it was in his time of residence there. Then on into this picture gallery where the large picture of himself is with his dog, his two daughters and the present owner of Abbotsford, his great granddaughter, a very fine looking woman indeed. Then into another hall lined

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with pictures and armor. Abbotsford is set in among beautiful trees and near by runs the Tweed, almost too small to be a river but so beautiful. We drove back to lunch at the Abby [sic] Hotel close by the old abby. [sic] We left again at 2 p.m. for Dryburg Abby [sic], a drive of about 10 miles, and I do believe it the grandest ride I’ve ever taken. The abby stands

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off acrost the Tweed in the woods. The walls with vines hanging[?] to them, the old tomb of Scott, it is all so picturesque and sad. Really, I felt as though I could lay down too & sleep for all was asleep about me. It was the home of monks once and to them we owe it all. One can trace the place and almost see the place as it was when all standing.

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We drove home a new way past the wish stone Scott speaks of back to our quiet little village of Melrose where we had our dinner, then took the 6 p.m. train arriving at Edinburgh at 7:30, directly to the Darling Hotel, 20 Waterloo Place.

Thursday 11^th

Slept a little later as it was one day we didn’t have to catch a train. After seeing about

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our tickets, we went to the Castle, situated on a hill over looking the pretty little city. We first reached the Argial tower, [sic, i.e. Argyle Tower] the prison. There from the top the view of the city was grand. We visited the little chapel where Mary once attended Mass. Then on to the Crown jewels and then into Mary’s apartments, consisting of one rather large but bare sitting room and a mighty small bedroom,

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and the window where little Charles was lowered in a basket to be baptized. Then on to the banqueting hall, all decorated with armor. This completed Edinburgh Castle, now used as a barracks. Then we took a cab to Holyrood Palace, the home of Queen Mary, previous a home of the monks, now used to entertain the kind of England when he visits

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Scotland. First we visited the gallery, pictures of all the kings and queens of Scotland. Thence into Lord Darnley apartments, then up to Queen Mary’s. In her reception room now stands an old bed of James I. Then her bed, so old the coverings are almost worn away. The door to steps where the executors [sic, i.e. executioners] of Rizzio entered and the supper room where he was stabbed in Mary’s presence,

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dragged through her apartments, and left for the night at the door of her reception room, where is now a brass plate. Driving back up High Street we passed all the (once upon a time grand old homes). First was John Knox home, the most fashionable hotel, now almost falling, High Street being now filled with the poorest class in Edinburgh. Then lunch and drives around

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the city, but rain sent us home early, to supper early, and to good night’s rest.

Friday, June 12^th

Another morning to catch a train. A 9:10 from Edinburgh and made 3 changes before arriving in the little village Aberfoil [sic, i.e. Aberfoyle], where we were to take a coach. We had lunch when we did reach it, then took the coach through the Trossachs [Pass] and such a grand

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ride it was, too, through the mountains, by lakes. Then we crossed two lakes by boat, and at 8:30 p.m. arrived in Glasgow, tired and hungry. Settled at the Armstrong Temperance Hotel.

Saturday 13^th

Certainly an unlucky day, rain all day until 3 in afternoon. Went then to the Cathedral, a beautiful old place. Then took

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a street car ride. Not in all Europe have I seen as I saw in 2 hours that Saturday afternoon young girls and women by the hundreds drunk. [The word drunk is written in different colored ink, evidently added at a later time.]

Sunday [June 14]

We attended Mass at a very poor church. After lunch we went to the Park, a beautiful spot, then to confession.

Monday, 15^th

To Holy Communion early and left on an early train for “Ayr.”

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Arrived about 10 a.m., went on car out to Burns home, a quaint pretty little place. Read many of his letters, then on out to the Bridge of Doon, Burns monument and the grave of his mother and father. A very interesting day indeed. Then back on the train at 1 p.m. for Liverpool, which we reached after a few changes, etc. Stopped at the Lawrence

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Hotel.

Tuesday 16^th

Up bright & early. After breakfast strait [sic] to Cooks, money there, all o.k., a bundle of mail & a box. Paid on tickets & shopped part of the day. I liked Liverpool, more like a city of the U.S.A. Sailed at 5 p.m. left dock, but as tide was out waited fully 3 hours in harbor. Started up about 9:30.

Wednesday 17^th

[no entry; diary ends with this date]

The diary takes up about half the pages in the volume. Recipes are found scattered throughout the remainder of the volume. The recipes are for burnt sugar cake, Atchison cake, hermit cookies, fruit cake (superior), White House sponge cake, ginger cookies (Mary), sponge cake, potato cake, sponge cake Aunt Mary (best), pop-overs, jamboli, meat loaf, veal loaf, butterscotch candy, butter taffy, coconut candy, chocolate fudge, dandelion cordial, vanilla extract, d. wine [probably dandelion wine], and floral cream.