The Winterthur Library

 The Joseph Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera

Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Winterthur, DE  19735

302-888-4600 or 800-448-3883

 

 

OVERVIEW OF THE COLLECTION

 

Creator:          Pepoon, Marshall, 1813-1877             

Title:               Diary of European sojourn

Dates:             1874, August 18-December 29

Call No.:         Doc. 1590

Acc. No.:         09x14

Quantity:        1 volume (161 pages)

Location:        31 I

 

 

 

BIOGRAPHICAL STATEMENT

 

Marshall Pepoon was a broker in New York City.  He was married to Charlotte A. Mildeberger, whom he called both Lottie and Dottie.  Pepoon was born on March 20, 1813, in Hudson, Columbia County, New York, the son of Elizabeth James and Daniel Pepoon.  In the 1865 New York City directory, Pepoon was listed as a broker in the firm Pepoon & Nazro, at 74 Wall Street; the Pepoons lived at 182 Fifth Avenue.  He died on October 3, 1877, and Charlotte died on November 25, 1880.  The Pepoons had had a large collection of paintings, which was sold at auction in New York City in February 1881.  Charlotte Pepoon’s sister Margaret was married to Walton H. Peckham. 

 

 

SCOPE AND CONTENT

 

 Diary kept by Marshall Pepoon from August 18 to December 29, 1874, recording his sojourns in Vevay, Swizterland, Paris, and Rome, with the bulk of the time (September 5-December 11) in Paris.  This diary only covers a part of the sojourn of Marshall and Charlotte Pepoon (on November 18, he noted that they had left for Egypt on that date in 1873).  Little mention is made of any sight-seeing, except for Pepoon’s multiple visits to the Louvre, where he was especially enthralled with the Egyptian galleries.  A great deal of his time in Paris was taken up with visiting with other Americans, among others Salem H. Wales, Peter Remsen Strong, and Henry A. Hurlbut; shopping and being fitted for clothes; and having various coins and stones, especially scarabs, intaglios, and cameos, set into pins, seals, and rings, mostly for himself, although some pieces were given to his wife.  He also bought a trunk from Louis Vuitton.  Drives through the Bois de Boulogne were another favorite activity in Paris.  Pepoon also attended some auctions and apparently visited a few galleries and studios.

 

In Switzerland, he was most interested in monitoring how well his watch ran, and he made a trip to Geneva to have his watch regulated so that it kept proper time.  He and his wife also enjoyed carriage rides through the Swiss countryside.  On the rail journey between Paris and Rome, the Pepoons stopped briefly in Turin, where Marshall took a carriage ride around the city.  In Rome, he visited museums and churches.  While in Paris, Pepoon took a short trip to Antwerp, Belgium, where he had stored what he thought was a painting by van Dyck.  An art expert declared it was not a van Dyck, and Pepoon then had the painting shipped to London.  Finances are mentioned as well, including railroad fares and prices for some meals.  Charlotte seems to have been the family accountant, as several times Marshall mentioned that she had notes exchanged and gave him money to pay expenses, plus pocket money for himself.  The diary rarely refers to any other of Charlotte’s activities.

 

 

ORGANIZATION

 

The entries are in chronological order.

 

 

LANGUAGE OF MATERIALS

 

The materials are in English, with some French and Italian phrases.

 

 

RESTRICTIONS ON ACCESS

 

Collection is open to the public.  Copyright restrictions may apply.

           

 

PROVENANCE

           

Purchased from Carmen D. Valentino.

 

 

ACCESS POINTS

 

            People:

                        Pepoon, Charlotte A. Mildeberger, d.1880.

Wales, Salem Howe, 1825-1902.

 

Topics:

            Jewelry.

            Men – Diaries.

Men’s clothing.

Railroad travel.

Tourist trade.

Voyages and travel.

France – Description and travel.

Italy – Description and travel.

Switzerland – Description and travel.

 

           

TRANSCRIPTION OF DIARY:

 

Location: 31 I

 

Notes about transcription:

 

French and Italian phrases were retained without translation; capitalization of words was normalized; some punctuation was added to make reading easier, but could be misplaced; some misspellings were corrected; some passages of poetry, addresses, and monetary accounts were not transcribed, but their presence is noted.

 

A few entries were not in page number order.  The transcription is in chronological order, and it is noted where the page sequence is interrupted.

 

 

[flyleaf]

Marshall Pepoon of New York, United States of America.

Vevey [i.e. Vevay], Vaudois, Suisse, 18 Août 1874

Aux Soins, Messieurs Munroe & cie, à Paris, 7 Rue Scribe 7, France

 

[p.1]

Prehensile – “adapted to seize or grasp, seizing, grasping; as the prehensile tail of a monkey”

 

Guillotine – “from Guillotin, a French physician, though he was neither the inventor nor the introducer of it, but merely proposed, in the Constituent Assembly of 1789, to abolish the usual mode of decapitation and use machines that would dispense with the use of (?) sword.  The instrument was invented by Dr. Antoine Louisin, 1792, and was at first called Louison or Louisitte, but this name was soon superseded by that of Guillotine, first used in a satirical song published in a loyalist newspaper of the day.”

Aluminium 8 min. tard, 8 a.m., 19 Août  [this refers to the time kept by a watch; see additional notes on watches below]

 

[p.2-3]

Obnoxious – ob and noxious – hurtful

1st – liable to censure; exposed to punishment, reprehensible, blameworthy, “obnoxious authors”

“All are obnoxious, and this fautly(?) land

Like fainting Hester, does before you stand,

Watching your scepter.” – Naller(?)

2d – offensive, odious, hateful – as obnoxious statesman – A minister obnoxious to the Whigs.

3d – liable; exposed; subject answerable; with to.  The religion of Queen Mary obnoxious to exception – Falker(?) – the writings of lawers [sic] which are tied and obnoxious to their particular laws – Bacon.  “Esteeming it more honorable to live on the public, than to be obnoxious to any private purse” – Milton.

Accountable, liable, exposed.  Cobb

Meretriciousness – the art of a prostitute

Meretricious – from Meretrix, a prostitute, literally one who earns money by prostitution.  Worcester

Henry A. Hurlbut, aux soins de M. Meyer – Banquier à Baden – Baron Jermaine, C. Bryer(?) – courier

Alluminium watch ¾ of minute slow, Mardi, 18 August, by Vacheron

 

[p.4-5]

Mardi, Août 18, ‘74

Daniel is back, and with him he they call Sam Powell.  They have walked up one of the high hills of Suisse.  Dan is swelled or bloated.  He calls it burnt.  After hearing his story all through, I asked Daniel if he had seen anything higher than “four aces.”  He replied that he could see a “full flush” by looking at his face in the glass.  No betting(?).  All this came off last night before I retired.  After I went to bed, as I hear there was large betting(?) and fun.  A walking match was made to come off on the 19th instant.  Dannie is to walk against time. 

“Lady Mackbeth” [sic] culminated her flight with her maid, a subject that the public has but little interest in, and should have been entirely private.  It is a case with two sides. 

Several of the young gentlemen of our house are undergoing castor oil at the hands of Dr. B----t.  Young McAlister took a hearty breakfast as usual with a bottle of wine, then took his oil on top of it, then took a couple of cocktails and a bottle of beer and wound up by taking a row with two oars across the Lake.  He was alive and lively last night.  Shafto is clean shaved and bright as a gazelle this morning, having laid fifty franks [sic] on Dannie for the walk tomorrow.

This morning is lovely and the house, as far as I can see, the house is intact.  Votre servitor.

 

19th.

G. Heath goes to school every morning at 7 o’clk.  He is a nice boy.  I have a bet with Dannie Barclay of 1 bottle of Rodera champagne that Worcesters Unabridged Dictionary is considered as better authorite [sic] for definitions than Websters, to be determined by competent judges who are familiar with both.

I took a blue pill, or rather two of 5 grains each, and this morning have drank nearly a pint of bitter water.

 

[p.6-7]

19 Août.

Dannie Barclay walked two kilometers, say one and ¼ English miles, in twelve 55/60th easy, and Mr. Huntington walked the same distance back in 12 21/60 minutes, by which I won from Pierre McCarty twenty francs. 4 / 5(?) [illegible]

In fortunes car whatever speed you [illegible]

Take for companion patience by your side.

 

20th Août

I wrote to Henry A. Hurlbut aux soins de Monsier Meyer, banquiere à Baden Baden, full of nonsense.  I asked him to answer me at this place care of the “Monnet.”  I received a charming letter from Margaret à Long Branch of 4th August.  It came by way of Paris.  I walked to day from Clarence to Vevey [i.e. Vevay] in 53 minutes by the watches, and over the measured two kilometers in twenty-one minutes, with a blazing sun shining directly in my face all the way.  It was all I wanted to walk.  My drawers(?) got down & bothered me greatly, but I pulled it through and can make better time walking the other way, a cooler day with trousers, shirt, and a cardigan jacket on only & a cap for my head.  A boy by the name of Otis had a good silver watch of the Watham [sic, i.e. Waltham] Company’s make, a good thick double case “Hunting” system, which he fooled(?) away to Old Prost in exchange for another watch at the price of  50 francs, $12 in trade.  Prost sold the watch to Jotham Post for sixty francs.

 

[p.8-9]

22 Old Broad St. London I. S. Morgan, Annie Palmer, “O.H.P.” New York.  Memorandums & words spoken by Mrs. Palmer in our room today: Milton says

“He called so loud, that all the hollow deep of Hell resounded.

A shout that tore Hell’s concave and beyond

Frighted(?) the reign of chaos and old night.”

 

EVl’s first awakening to Life.

[there follows a quotation from Pope]

 

[p.10-11]

Tout le Monde – “Eschscholtzias – Odontoglossums” – neither of these are cowslips, they may be floral aristocrats that fetch ten guineas a root.  Garden.

[penciled notes about hotel charges]

 

24th Août.

I exchanged 2 notes of 20 £ each, numbers 64804 and 5 at the rate of 25.20 to the pound sterling at George Glass, net proceeds 1008 francs. 

I bought a case of Razors of [illegible] for 12 francs, with one handle complete.

Paid bill for 2 weeks, 50 [illegible] francs in full.

Mr. Phillips bot [sic] a razor & strop & case.

Rec’d a letter dated yesterday from Hurlbut dated at Lucerne.  They go today to Baden Baden. 

Mr. Jaques and family are at Ouchy, am coming here on Thursday.  This is Tuesday the 25th.  Recd letter from P. R. Strong last evg. & wrote him immediately and again this morning.

“Of Israel’s [band is crossed out] tribe thou has a numerous band”

“But still the Canaanite is in the land.”

Our Hotel Monnet they sayt is full, but they will give me a room for Strong & family – not on pension, pas de tout.

 

[p.12-13]

[lines of poetry]

 

I wrote to Margaret today a long letter.

 

25 26th of Août 74

Mr. & Mrs. W. H. Phillips left at 4 p.m. for Saas(?) & the Simplon.

Lottie [wife Charlotte, also called Dottie] and I took a charming drive over the hills to Chateau de Blonney, after a call on Madame Colgate.  The call & the drive were charming.  Near Blonney the lay of the land is extremely picturesque, the village quaint, the pictures on the walls very funny, the trees & vines literally groaning with fruits, the fragrance of the newly mown hay perfectly delicious, the roads pretty good, but the carriage too cramp’d by half, horses and driver good.  I do not remember so charming a drive. 

Sierre.  Blonay.  William H. Phillips.  Mr., Mrs., Miss Sutherland, one of the 600 at Ballaclava [sic, i.e. Balaklava] – Lancaster.

 

[p.14-15]

27 Août.

My 40 franc watch runs superbly at the moment.  It is one minute too [slow – crossed out] fast by Prost.  Nearly a week ago he just touched the regulator a hairs breadth and now elle marche bien. 

Shafto says Col. Sutherland was one of the gallant charge 600 who fought so famously at Balaclava [sic].  He is with his wife and daughter.  I like them very much indeed.  He is not only a soldier but a travelled gentleman, tout a fait.

This morning here is charming and I think the Phillips’s have a delightful day for the ascent of the Simplon.  Wish I was with them.  Oxenford the old name for Oxford. 

Robert Etzensberger, Grand Hotel Victoria de Venice.

The Midland Hotel, St. Pangras [sic] Station, London.

Etzensberger [illegible]

 

Samedi 29 Août

At 7:30 this morning, I took steamer Aigle for Geneva and back for 4 05/100 franc.  We arrived exactly on time 11:20.  I met Francis L. Walker.  He looks well for him.  I walked to Vacheron & Co. to have my watch observed.  It has gained 14 mints. [minutes] in 54 days.  They touched the regulator and set it rightly Geneva time and want me to look in the next time I pass to see how she marches.  I went to rue Allemand no. 20 and enquired for pepper mill.  They have them silver plaited [sic, i.e. plated] at 33 francs, the wooden ones when they have ‘em at 8 fc. a piece – chaque – each.  When I came out who should I see by John D. Maxwell and Mr. Montegue riding.  They hail’d me and I went

 

[p.16-17]

with them to Hotel de la Paix, had a lunch and rode about & then back for the steamer Bonevard at 1:40.  They deceived me and went off without calling me, so I telegraphed Dotte I should be up by the Aigle at 7 p.m.  Montegue bought a case of razors for 12 francs & 7 [illegible] &c.  I arrived home at 7 precisely.

 

29 and 30th. 

I am 2 ¼ min. slow by Prost clock.  Alluminium is 4 min. fast of Prost. 

Rainy all the early part of the day.  Fetridge left by the boat at half past one for Geneve.  High hang the Goose.  The Dent du Midi comes out in a glow of glory.  Monsieur Strong and I talk a walk leisurely up to the church on the hill and enjoy the lovely views.  The air is clear and the mountains are very fine.  Lots of fleecy clouds are [illegible phrase].

 

Sunday 30th Août.

I rec’d letter from Salem H. Wales yesterday at Paris.  No answer required.  10 min. past 8 by my watch, 10 ½ by Alluminium as nearly as possible to yesterday(?).  They run splendidly.  Shafto was very funny in the billiard room last night and kept all hands in a roar for an hour.  He is prepared to bet upon every shot and really shows quick calculation of the chances.  Great deal of fun.

We conclude this morning to leave Vevey [sic] for Paris via Geneve on Friday morning next at 7 30/100.  Nous verrons.

 

Monday 31st Août

My watch is 3 min. tard of Prost this morning.  Alluminium runs very closely but fast(?) a trifle, perhaps it has gained 6 min. in a fortnight.

 

[p.18-19]

31st Août

We think this morning that we may get off on Thursday morning to Geneva in the early boat sat(?) at 7 30/60 and arrive at Geneva 11:20 a.m. en route to Paris.  Our visit is out(?) here and we may as well move towards La Belle France, le beau Paris.

Shafto walked over the course 2 kilometers in 14 1/2 minutes, when he was taken vomiting.  Dan Barclay walked with him to keep up his courage.

Lottie and Madelle. Strong went together to church.

The day has been perfectly beautiful.  The Dent du Midi so fine that all went from the table to see the glow - pinkish.

Peter Remsen Strong and I took a drive today to the Castle of Blonay.  We saw the drole [sic, i.e. droll] paintings on the walls and the lovely views which we enjoyed vastly.  It was warm but perfectly lovely.  Madame Morgan left this morning en route for Paris, stopping at DeCoppert, I think to visit her daughter. 

Captain Sullivan & family are gone today to Geneva.  They go tomorrow to Mayence sur Rhine [Mentz, Germany], and Mademoiselle then goes to Brussels to finish her splendid education.  Her father has taken a house at Clarence sur lac Leman for the winter and will bring his other children there. 

Madame Bereda with her daughters Madame Colgate and La Comtesse [illegible], 5 rue Duphot(?), Paris – a most charming lady and a large party besides dined with Mr. Clem(?) Barclay and had a dance afterwards.  Dannie goes tomorrow to Chamonix and we are packing up to go.  Shafto went in bathing after his blue pill.

 

[p.20-21]

Hotel Monnet, Vevey [sic], Suisse, 1st September 1874

My watches are all on time this morning – “see how they run.”

[accounts]

I am packed up for a start tomorrow.  Dotte takes 500 fcs. and I the balance for bills and railroad fare & etc.  Wrote Hotel du Louvre and Schott wrote Hotel “Jura” à Dijon that we should be there Friday night.  Lottie takes Miss Strong out [sic] Chateau de Blonary at 4 p.m. 

[more accounts]

 

[p.22-23]

Geneva 4th Sept. 1874 – 5 am

We are waiting for omnibus for Dijon, where we hope to arrive at Hotel Jura before 5 o’clock p.m.  Paid bill here 34 francs, and that without breakfast.  Room 10 fcs. no. 56.  Wine 6 fcs.  It is a fair morning but will be warm I recon [sic]

I saw a Mr. Morse last night who knows Archd. Lowe.  The Laniers and La Comtesse, née Keeney with her baby & Roman nurse – charming people.

After a very fatiguing journey in crowded cards we arrived sans incident at ¼ past 5 p.m.  We were trotted up two stairs by a d— fool, and then down and into another part of the house on first story.  We walked up from the cars only a step.  At dinner we foolishly ordered an extra bottle of Beaun [sic, i.e. Beaune] wine at 5 fr.  It was not as good as Schott’s Beaun at 4 fcs.  The fish was stinking.  I could not swallow it.  The rest was fair, par[illegible] choses.  They shook up an extra lit for me in a room very small where I could not sleep well and did not. 

5th September 74

Dijon, Hotel Jura.  I am up early and roaming about like an Arab.  I have been to the station and seen my baggage, look’d for the restaurante but it was up(?) – chairs on the table, mops on the floor and an universal swabbing and mopping.

I went to Restaurant de Paris, took some coffee and ordered a [illegible phrase] for luncheon at 3 francs pour tout.  Left Dijon 11:35 a.m. and came like split to Paris, arrived at 6 p.m. exact.  Baggage 19 fcs and fare 79 about.  Paris at Grand Hotel du Louvre.

 

[p.24-25]

Paris, 6th September 1874

Had my trunks brought up.  Le 18th 9bre 1874.  Mr. P de --- appartement no. 93, a laissé en depôt au magazine de l’Hotel Deux Colis portent le no. 156.

L’Economie [illegible]

1 franc per month I recon.

We have salon 95, cor. [corner] rue de Marengo & rue de Rivoli 94 and 93 at thirty-six francs per day.  The ticket price is 20 – 10 – and 8 francs, one a [illegible] of 2 francs.  They are elegant and comfortable.  I met Maxwell and Montague at the Bristol.  They came down to the Louvre Hotel with me and found Wales waiting to see me.  We took a carriage and went to Butte Chaumont(?) and then to Place [palais crossed out] Royal to see the old, then they went to Monsieur Blofaw(?), Palais Royal, and ordered a grand old dinner for tomorrow and invited me to meet General Somebody and a Mr. Thompson from Cuba, he that we saw at Vevey [sic], he that spoke Spanish so well.  I am to meet them and they are to meet me.  We had a fair dinner at table d’hôte, with very fair wine all for 5 francs.

 

7th

I detrunked and [illegible] a lot of old traps and went out to breakfast at Richard Lucas’s – ordered too much, much more than I could eat.  Went to Munroe’s and found a letter from Margaret, one from Miss Maggie Browne of London, announcing the death of her dear old mother.  I got a letter from Gabe, saying that I had been advertised for about that old painting at Antwerp.  I have written to the Duchess(?)

 

[p.26-27]

and demand an answer to this city – what it all means.  I bought 1 doz. St. [illegible], 1 doz. Vichy, 6 Bottles Seth(?), 2 Saratoga, and Rout(?) boire, for the rather large supply of what wont intoxicate – 1 bottle(?) [illegible], Pomade fixative, and that’s how the money goes. [gives prices for these items]

I saw Jonathan Thorn, Ford, Hughes, Thompson, Dewey, Maxwell, Montague, Vesey(?) and the rest of them at the Grand Hotel and Hurlbut with his moustache terrible mash’d(?).  How badly he looks with it.  I saw Mr. Phillips, Mrs. Phillips has lost her father and she is sad enough.  They are going post haste home.  Poor John Butler – all his life he tried to convince his friend that all the Drs. lied.

 

Monday evening I dined at Blot Palais Royal and met Major General Torbeau and Mr. Clark from Philadelphia.  Monsieur Montegue gave the dinner very liberally but very badly done.  Blot was not equal to the occasion.  Through about twelve midnight.

 

Tuesday.  Met Maxwell and Montegue with Mr. Thompson and under invitation from M. [illegible] the grocer we went all over the new opera house.  I invited Francis T. Walker to go with us and he went.  I left my pink(?) scarabie to be mounted and a ring to be repaired and a button to be mended, all to be done in all this week by Le Clerque near corner of Rue de la Paix and rue Neuve St. Augustin, Dewey’s man.  Dined at Hotel du Louvre, fair, went to [dinner crossed out] bed early.

 

[p.28-29]

9th September 1874

Saw Hez.(?) Johnson.  He says David Crawford(?) is “very bad man.” Hez speaks unqualifiedly and don’t seem to care what he says about it.

I saw J. B. Dickenson.  He looks well, reports the sweet potatoe [sic] vine not gone home at all but Prescott on the way over to meet her here.

The Payne boys and mother are expected tonight.  How funny.

I received from John Howard the usual lot of maple sugar today, but did not get any reply to my letter written to Antwerp the day before yesterday.  What can the wretch mean Kussenberg & Cie, no 10 rue des Juifs(?) 10 Antwerp.  George W. Wheatley & Co., 156 Leadenhall St., E.C., [London,] chief office.  Write them tomorrow if I do not hear from Antwerp.

 

9th September 1874.

I wrote to George W. Wheatley & Co. at chief office [see above for address] asking a reply to my letter asking what is the matter, &c.

 

10th September

I took breakfast with Mrs. & Monsieur Henry A. Hurlbut at 65 au premier Hotel Chatham.  Codfish balls and commercial eggs, and only fair coffee, but very very cheap.  Mr. & Mrs. Hearn and Monsieur Gibbon called, spent evening with us.  Did not sleep perfectly well.  I met Theodore F. Payne this morning on the rue Scribe.  Met Sherman Collins who married Miss Newton of Albany.

 

11th

I took a model for my blue cravat over to rue de Halevy.  I called on LeClerque, rue de la Paix & got my button & [illegible, scarabie?].

 

[p.30-31]

12th

I paid Le Clerque, rue de la Paix, for [illegible] my blue scarabie and mounting it in grand pure(?) gold and about a ton of it & doing some other work for me 24 francs – too much.  The scarabia does not all suit me, the pin is too long and clumsy and the wretch has broken out a little piece of the very(?) scarabia, which had sooner have been broken from his nose.  I take the pin back and tell him to change it and make it smaller.  I have left the toad pin which he mounted for me last year, and a small pretty scarabia which I bought in Naples to be new mounted and the olive [or blue] scarab is to be altered, made smaller and prettier(?) at the same price as last year – about 9 francs each(?), including the one he has already made for me.

Ford, Mrs. Payne, Warren, and Theodore called on us last evening.  I gave Theodore the head of Phyrus(?) in cornelian which I bought for him in Rome.  He paid me its cost sauf 100 francs and seems pleased with it.  It is a beauty.

I bought 3 packets of envelopes(?) of Wm. H. Rice Cook, 152 Regent Street, London and 34 rue du Quatre Septembre et Place de l’Opera, for two francs, “Alex Pirie & Son” trademark, a superb article.

13th Dimanche

Our bill was rendered at 40 francs per day, notwithstanding they told me the rooms would be only 36 francs.  I made them put down the price and deduct 28 francs for 7 days.  Now they say they must have 28 francs in future they deducted 3 [illegible] and some other items.  I bought at Cherit 1 bottle of brandy, 8 francs.

 

[p.32-33; the corner of p. 32 broke off, but before that happened, it was clear that the first word on page 32 was the name Salem]

Salem Wales and I went into the Egyptian department at the Louvre Museum.  It is very extensive and interesting.  Spent 4 mortal hours there very agreeably and must go in and look all over again. 

The collection is vast and well placed.  I thank the French nation for getting these things together and placing them in position so entirely acceptable to every one.

Edwin Gordon, no. 76 A, Princes Street, Leicester Square W. London, Military boot maker, the best in the world.

 

14th

Salem Wales and I went to 121 rued de Havlene(?) and selected 9 shirt patterns at 12 francs each to be made in the best manner.  They have taken my measure and will send me one for a model day after tomorrow.  The patterns look well and they brag grandes choses about their cuts and fits.  Nous verrons.

We went to the Bon Marché and I bought two blue cravats, 7.50 each, 15.00; 1 red undershirt, all wool and fine(?) 15.50.  I bought at Maison Petiter Gains 11.75.  I ordered 2 jackets and 3 drawers made of finest lambs wool, all red in colour, at Bon Marché.  Brown & Jourdan, 14 rue d’Herbe(?), shirt makers, etc.  Cartwright & Warner are the best English manufacturers and the best probably in the world of stockings, drawers, undershirts, etc.

 

15th Sept. 1874

Wales and daughter called last night and spent the evening with us.  I have mounted(?) my new woolen shirt, bought at Wales place.  I like it vastly.  Knitted goods for large persons are [illegible] the best.  Everything should be elastic, hence the beauty of the cardigan jackets.  It is agreeable to wear and full of comfort.

 

[p.34-35]

15th September 1874 continued.

Charlotte drew for 100 £ through Munsor(?) & Co. [gives exchange rate]

I paid Maison Frick, rue Scribe 2.  Grand Hotel and one Pasquier 1 [illegible] for “nettoyage de gants et de tons(?) vetements sans retricessement(?) ni odeur,” for cleaning and sizing up my coat made over 2 years ago by Hill Brother & Co., 3 Old Bond St., London, say [gives prices] in full.

I paid our board bill at 95 Hotel de Louvre, 355.30 francs, including storage on two trunks, 10 months 20.50 francs.

I took 2 new blue cravats to Brown & Jourdan to be cut and made into 4.  I gave further instructions regarding my shirts & rist(?) bands.  John Howard leaves tonight for London & home. 

Lottie gave me 200 francs out of which I have to pay all of the dinners for both, my breakfasts, for my shirts & outre chose $40 – will not and ought not to go a great way when everything is included, brandy, Vichy & [illegible] de St[illegible] &c &c.  All takes penny [illegible].

The price of our rooms from last Sunday is 38 francs per diem & lamp 2 francs, service 2 francs – 40 all told.  Not dear, they are fine.

Saw Mr. Gilbert Rice and his daughter today and the Staleys of Philadelphia.  They ask after Mrs. MacAlister [illegible]

Toujours prêt a vous server – on ferons suis bien oblige.  Comment va la santé?  Comment allez vous?  Ha?

 

16th

I went with Mr. Reynolds in his carriage this p.m. at 2 ¾ to the Place Royal and thence

 

[p.36-37]

to the Butte Caumant [sic] and all over that lovely parc, then to the Maison Felix Potin, 47 Boulevard Malesherbes, where I bought

2 bottles Cliquot Chamber                    16

2 bottles sherry wine, 3.590 ea             7

4 lemons 20                                          .80

50 sugar                                               .80

50 do.                                                  .75

                                                            25.35

Stamps                                                 .10

Paid in box tomorrow                           24.45

 

Paid Ed. Leclercq, rue de la Paix 18, 3 francs in full for mending rings and settings all very satisfactory.

Reynolds brought me home in grand style – that’s all I’ve done today.

 

17th Sept.

I like my little rouge scarabie vastly – it is so perfect in itself – has beautiful colour, is well cut, and prettily mounted.  It is a sweet noticeable scarf pin.  I admire it as Mrs. Silsh was wont to say.  Brown & Jourdon have not sent in my model shirt as they agreed to do yesterday.  I hate to be disappointed even in the trying on of a shirt.  I met Fred. De Forest yesterday.  He looks old, but not seedy.

 

18th Sept.

Jourdain & Brown sent home 4 blue cravats.  Bown [i.e. Brown?] is lame and not at the Maison today to see my shirt so I have to let the new shirt be.

I gave Salem H. Wales his selection out of all my silver antique coins of 4 for himself for which he pays for the setting of a pair of sleeve buttons for me; also from the old Roman coins I gave Theodore F. Payne his choice of 4, and then Warren R. Payne his selection of 5 coins from the lot, so the assortment is slimmed down pretty well.

I bought this morning of “Au Gagne Petit” 2 pr. of red knitted drawers of all wool, very fine, at 20 fcs. the pair, 40 fcs.

 

[p.38-39]

18th

I met M. J. Henriques and had a long talk with him about old times.  Wales took the coins to Leclerque, 18 rue de la Paix, to be mounted like my English pebble.  I put on a pair of the red drawers.  They fit superbly, but I think were not cheap at 20 fcs. the pair.

 

19th Samedi

Mr. and Mrs. D. M. Hughes and their Lola spent the evening with us.  S.M. has some exquisite intaglios.  Lola is a pretty pert girl, not quite spoiled, has a mind and a will and a way of her own.  She speaks French, German, and English equally well.  English she did not learn from her ma mama [sic].  Elle murders it horribly - [illegible] – quelle physic.  My Gagne Petit are very nice fitting and the comfort of the knitted stuff is unspeakable – [illegible phrase] and convangience(?).

Why does Salem Wales mess himself up with politics and keep in hot water all the time. 

The watch I bought of Vacheron de Geneva runs exactly rightly, as true as possible.

Madame Hurlbut is setting for her miniature!  Heaven save the mark(?) – quelle vanity!  Ching a ding a ding, ding a ding, a diddle dum dum.

The shovel and tongs

To each other belongs,

And the kettle sings,

-         said the widow McCrea.

 

Au Gagne Petit, rue des Moineant(?) 22, prés celle Saint-Roch, Boureut-Aubertot, à tres Bon Marché et pris fixe.

 

I took a cab and drove to the Prefecture de Police to try to find Dottie’s fan, which she left in cab no. 2796 the other day, but it has not been reported there.  They advised that I write to the Chief Bureau upon the subject but I give it up.

 

[p.40-41]

I called on Joudain and Brown to show up(?) my new shirt and to specify(?) that he set back the whole hole for my [missing word, probably neck] so that the back of the collar will not draw down the back of my neck, to make the collar a little higher in front and put a good strong buttons on behind to hitch a false collar to, and by no means to [another word missing] any starch in the shirts except on the wrist bands and collars, not any in the bosoms, not any elsewhere.  Browns seems to understand it.

I lost one of my beautiful coral buttons in the jardin of the Tuileries, out of my sleeve of my new shirt after two hours.  I went back there for it, and when looking about, a woman said that it had been found and picked up by a person dressed in black, a woman.  She looked about for an owner and then went off.  I left my card and address with this person and it may be brought by the Louvre Hotel, but I fear not.  Hurlbut offered ten francs for the other button, and I sold it to him and have the privilege of having it back for 5 francs any time.  Thank you, j’aime pas [sic] coral, especially lost coral.

 

20th Dimanche

Mr. Clark, Thompson, & Chancey(?) avec Mr. Gibbon, called on us last evening, the Thompsons having dined here in the evening, le General Torbut, our consul general, and a gentleman - the name is not spelt right, I recon [sic], it sounds like Talbot when spoken.  Warren Payne promises to call today for the Louvre at one to two o’clock.

I wrote to Mademoiselle Maggie Browne, 17 Queens Gate Place, South Kensington, London.

 

[p.42-43]

Lottie has a very bad cough today and her limbs are swelled very much.  I want to call in a doctor but she will not do it.  Mrs. Hughes called to see if she had taken her medicine, which she sent to her.  She had not taken a drop of it, but Mrs. H. persuaded her to take a dose.

 

Monday morning, 21st

Dottie applied a mustard cataplasm to her breast.  She took Mrs. Hughes medicine and seems better this morning but she in not well and I very much want to call in a doctor. She will not consent today.  It starts to rain but the sun is out, as hot as mustard where I am writing.

 

I have this moment rec’d from Salem H. Wales his photograph and a pair of silver sleeve buttons set by Ed. Leclerq, fabricant bijoutier, jouillier, orfevre, rue de la Paix, 18, Paris.  They are not pretty but genuine antique coins, I know for I furnished them. 

 

22nd Sept.

I wrote to E. Gordon, no. 76a Princes Street, Leicester Square W., London, for him to make me two pair of shoes the same as the last except a trifle lighter, to write me and send a bill as soon as they were done, heels a trifle higher and well staid(?) with nails, &c.

I received a letter from Margaret yesterday, and I went with young Hodge to no. 12 rue de Seine(?) to see a lot of scarabia.  I met McNiel of Burrough Road, London, and treated him.  I dined at R. Lucas Tavern.

Dejeuner at Madelaine Tavern.

Mr. Ford gave me a neat little whisk broom for clothes brushing and we went to the Pharmacie Pourret, E.M. Ducro, pharmacien de 1er classe, sucessceur, Rue Rambuteau 87, Masison des Bains, Bains Neuralgia.

 

 [p.44-45]

Delavigne(?), 70 rue Quincarr, Paris, 1 fl., [illegible] Bass(?)

Ford has bid me good bye, he goes tomorrow from Paris & by the Russia on Saturday from L’pool [Liverpool].

I have ransacked my duds very thoroughly to find two or three little things that I have missed, but as they are very diminutive indeed, the probability is that I have mislaid them.  I looked two hours for a segar pouch into which I had put a few old coins, and I gave it up for lost when I look in the pocket to my red cardigan jacket and there it was, snug as a bug in a rug, perhaps snugger.  I have tried to put things to rights, I forget where everything is.

[French phrase].

 

Say, 23rd Septbre.

I mislaid this book and got out of patience looking for it.  Am I getting so far gone in decadence that I cannot remember a moment.  Wake up old Pepoon and shake off this lethargy.

I bought a little cloak, simply for the shoulders, a shedder of water, dust, and wind.  I like it, only 15 francs.  I left an order at the same place, Au Montagnes d’Esscosse [sic, i.e. Ecosse] for a full circle cloak, all wool, light and nice, 40 francs, with three pockets.  Nous verrons.

I left 12 old coins of silver at “E. Fitss,” 48 Fauborg St. Honoré 48, to be mounted by a silver link &c into sleeve buttons, to be done on Saturday at 4.50 each set.

My shirts 9 of “cotton for the Indies” made by Jourdain & Brown, 14 rue Halevy, at 12 francs were sent home today.  They suit me well.

 

24th

Did not do much but make a few calls on the

 

[p.46-47]

Dickensons, the Deweys, the Staleys of Phila., the Hurlbuts, and the Bois de Boulogne.

 

25th

I ordered from Au Montagnes of Scotland one entire suit of coat, vest, & pantaloons, with every so many pockets, of good Scotch tweed, all for 100 francs.  One pair of pants, 30 francs.  One blue sack coat for 70 francs.  All good material and cheap enough if they fit me well.  Nour verrons.

I bought at the Bon Marché 1 pr. of gold sleeve buttons for 17 50/100 francs, which I did not want.  They are very pretty indeed but why do I want them, not-with-standing [sic] they are marked P.  I took my coat to Woodmans to be sponged and pressed out of wrinkles.

 

Saturday 26 September 74

I call’d on Fitts, rue Faubourg St. Honoré, opposite the Legation Anglaise and paid him 18 francs for 4 pair of sleeve buttons he mounted for me of old coins with a link. 

I then tried on my new clothes at the Mountains of Scotland and all will, I think, fit me well when finished.  Nous verrons.  We took a drive on the Bois de B---ge [Boulogne].  I met Phillips and his wife and Vermilye of Merchants Bank.  Bid Wales good bye and he promises to write me immediately when he gets home.

After dinner, when I was talking with a Scotchman & his daughter on the top of the stairs, the Comtesse came up and asked what she had done that I should cut her dead.  She saw us, Dottie

 

[p.48-49]

and I, in a carriage.  I looked straight at her, she spoke, and I did not, but looked cross as the devil – first ever I heard of it.  M.(?) Porte(?) says [illegible] I didn’t mean to and don’t know that I did.

 

27th Dimanche

Dejeuner at Lucas was cold(?), the mackerel was underdone.  I sent it back.  They did it, and kept about half of it so I enjoyed a slim breakfast.  Then took a walk up the Faubourg St. Honoré and in the Champs Elysses & then through the garden of the Tuileries home.  It was very warm.  Warren Payne called and he and I took a run through the Egyptian part of the Louvre Gallery.  We saw the scarabie and other chose, were pretty(?) interested, he finished his call afterwards and Dottie & I dined dans le restaurant in a frugal way.

I infer that Warren did not altogether cotton to the dragoman Mr. Smart(?) that they had way down in the Holy Land, not assez “deferential” to please his majesty, n’est-ce pas?

This day has been almost(?) but warm.  Paris has enjoyed it vastly.

I had my hair cut, as the French say, considerable by the man in the passage Madeleine.

 

Monday morning, 28 Sept.

It lightened and thundered very severely during the night, the thunder really sounded and seem’d like the report of heavenly shot 7 rifle cannon.  (I never heard one, but I have heard the sharp crack of a rifle.)  This morning is nice, but not entirely clear.  It is cooler than yesterday. 

It is astonishing how accurately

 

[p.50-51]

my new watch goes, or runs.  It was set in Geneva by Vacheron with Paris time and it is not ten seconds out of the way, in fact, it is right now. 

I will not load up with all sorts of things today.  I did not sleep well but feel perfectly well.  I rec’d a letter yesterday from London, 76A Princes Street, Leicester Square, London W., Edwin Gordon, E. Gordon, enclosing bill for

1 pair spring boot joe caps £1.18

1 pair calf oxford shoes        1.10

[total]                                  £ 3.8

 

They are not low priced but are of excellent quality, best in the end.  They last me more than a year, are comfortable, and make one happy.

Gordon writes that they will be ready on Thursday next, the 1st of October.  How can I get them over from London?  That’s the conundrum.

Shaknashy(?) Jim was a Modoc Indian, shot for salvage. 

Dottie handed me 4 10£ notes [gives numbers], altogether 40 pounds sterling, to pay for many things, “and leave nothing outstanding,” as she says.  Forty pounds sterling £40.0.0, 1000 francs, $200.

Thompson says one can hire a carriage for 850 francs per month, that is 28 1/3 francs per day, calling 30 days to the month.  Supposing it rains, or that you do not want a carriage more than 20 days each month, that makes your carriage cost 42 ½ francs for each day.  Now with 42 francs, one can hire a much more elegant turnout and have it exactly when one wants it and have nothing to pay rainy weather or when one does not want to go out.  Get your carriage when you want it and pay the highest price is the cheapest & the very best way to do.

 

[p.52-53]

I saw Madame Heath on the rue de la Paix today.  Mr. Rutherford told me that Regie(?) Barclay came on with Mrs. Heath, Mrs. Swan, “G,” and Willie, and the maid probably.  They are at a hotel on the rue St. Honoré, name not in my mind. 

I called at the Mountains of Scotland and told them to put 4 pockets in my waist coats and where to put the pockets in my trousers.  I bought two very long collar buttons en [illegible] for 1 franc and some cosmetic and fromage de brie et Neufchatel for Lottie, 5 francs.  Saw Miss Rice and Her Dad, poor thing, but did not speak with them.  Paid our bill for nearly 800 francs for two weeks board and carriage.

Mr. Sherwood Collins from Albany called to see us last evening and spent the evening.  “We sat up for company,” very agreeable man.  He leaves his wife & children here, wife at Grand Hotel.  He proposes to return in February “and take a run down into Italy.”  He knew Rufus Peckham and lives almost next door to him in Albany.  He liked the poor Judge very much.

 

Mardi 29th September

I have the shirt, undershirt, drawers, and collar subject reduced pretty much to a science.  My experiments are in progress and pretty much perfected – will be able to report before the commencement of 1875.  Our weather today is charming to a certainty.  Mr. Collins had heard that Salem H. Wales had bought some stocks on which he had lost money.  Sorry – Salem is a good clever fellow.

About the 20th of August Mrs. Palmer told Dottie to send a trunk marked “O.H.P.” to 22 Old Bond Street, London, care of I.S. Morgan, for Annie Palmer, and it would go straightly for Mrs. Peckham.

 

[p.54-55]

That same trunk will go today and I will write to Moran and Miss Annie Palmer enclosed(?) concerning the trunk and its destination.

I paid the Bon Marché 33 fcs. just for two woven(?) woolen shirts.  Memo: never order a thing made to order, they charge 1 franc each more these shirts than for the one bought out of the store.  They sent over three pairs of knitted drawers but there were altogether too heavy.  I now order 3(?) pr. of the same thickness of the shirts at 20 francs the pair, to be done by the 15th of Octo. 

Dottie paid me 52 francs borrowed last night.

Paid Jourdain & Brown, 14 Rue Halevy 14 for 9 shirts with collars at 12 fcs. 108, 18 facons de cravat 75 ea [total] 6, francs in full 114, one hundred & fourteen francs.  Montagnes of Ecosse tried on.

I had 2 notes #18 & #19 changed at 25.10 to the pound sterling; recd. 502 fc from Henry A. Hurlbut. 

L’Aubert(?) Kane & Co. offer to take the Dr. Peckham trunk to London for 15 francs, but they say it must be opened at Calais or Dover.  Mais – but if it is intended for America, it better be sent to Liverpool direct, then it will not be obnoxious at London or any intermediate place.

I do not know what to do with the damned trunk.  It is not worth what it will cost unless it is very carefully managed.  [illegible]

I wrote to I.S. Morgan & Co. with a letter enclosed for Miss Annie Palmer.  I requested Morgan to write me the name of the ship and the day Miss Palmer proposed to sail, so that I might order the trunk on

 

[p.56-57]

board without expense.

I wrote Salem H. Wales that he could find someone who would bring my shoes – must write him again not to go on purpose and not to get mad – and not to take the shoes home with him.

I ordered a doz. collars made by Jourdain & Brown – will send home a model.

I ordered L’Herbette(?) Kane & Co., 33 rue du Quatre Septembre, to send to our room for a trunk marked O.H.P., New York, to Henry L. Sherlock & Sons, 9 Canning Place, Liverpool, to go over by Miss Annie Palmer for Mrs. Margaret A. Peckham.  I must write to Sherlock tomorrow – fail not.

 

October 1st, 1874

I wrote to Salem H. Wales a long rambling letter at Langham, London, about two pair [sic] of shoes I want him to send over for me from Gordons.  Chauncey Thompson gave me the address of Monsieur D. Du Puy, 8 rue du Perche, bijoutier, joaillier, where I have left two antique stones to be mounted in rings of gold, handsomely for fifty francs, $10 the two, & to be done on Wednesday next.  I am to call for them there.  He looks like a good man.  George W. Prescott and his sister have arrived at the L’Athenée.  Theo. Payne and I went there for him but could not find him though Theo. Has seen and conversed with him.  It rained this morning early, and is now disagreeable out.  The stones left at Du Puys is the balance & abundance and the wing’d sphinx, both antiques.

 

[p.58-59]

Octo. 2d, 1874

Well, my great affair with Aux Montagnes d’Ecosse has culmintated.  The goods are all home and the bill is in, 240 francs in all.

Say 1 cloak to [illegible]  40 fcs.

1 costume complete  100 fcs.

Very fair tweed goods, arms too short and no hangers on the coat – they’ll fix;

1 blue sack coat, it suits me all but the colour rubs off like Satan – won’t have it  70 fcs.

1 pr. good trousers  30  [total] 240

I shall deduct the blue coat  70

And the cloak I bot the other day  15 

Not a bad outfit for francs 185.

But I doubt the policy yet of patronizing a cheap tailor, everything has a very cheap look – very – ca depend des circonstances.

Vous etes vraiment trop aimable.  Avez-vous quelque chose à me dire?  Je le sais avec certitude.

Memorandum for the Blanchisseuse – Ne pas amidoner les plastrons de mes chemises mais poignées et les cols doivent etre amionnes comme d’habitude.  [written twice]

George W. Prescott and the widow Schidell passed the evening with us; Mrs. Hearn also came in.

I gave Munroe & Co. one franc today – to send Dod(?) Rathbone & Co. of Cairo for 60 centimes I owe for postage.  I fear it will not be done [illegible].

 

3rd Oct.

This has been an unpleasant day, rainy and otherwise.  I saw Miller, Hez. Johnson’s partner, he corroborated what Johnson says touching David Crawford.  He talks very bad.

 

[p.60-61]

Jotham Post sent me 20 francs by Lottie today, which he says he lost betting me that Dr. Guillotine [sic] was the inventor of the machine for beheading the French people during the French Revolution.  I backed Worcesters Dictionary – it says the machine called the guillotine was invented by Dr. Antoine Louis and that it was called the louison or louissette for several years when it was [illegible] to guillotine by a scurrilous poem. 

Fetridge and Post were both cocksure about this thing, and would bet any money on it; all I would bet was one hat.  Lottie called on Hughes today.  “Loloh” is sick.  I have not seen Prescott today, or Warren Payne, or Hurlbut, or hardly anybody.  Mrs. Heath I suppose sails today from L’pool.  I wish he [sic, i.e. her] a favourable bon voyage.

I gave Mr. Leighnette an order for 1 doz. fine old brandy, will arrive by Tuesday prochain.

“Where even God did seem to set his seal and give the world assurance of a man.”

Ne pas amidoner les plastrons de mes chemises de coulour mais le poignées et les cols doivent etre amidonnes comme d’habitude. 

I have written a long letter to Margaret, one to Wales, and one to Henry L. Sherlock & Sons, 9 Canning Place, Liverpool, about the trunk.  I enclosed the B/L(?) and requested an answer.  My letters are all stupid enough.

 

5th

Blanchisseuse for mercredi.  I am trying to learn them what to starch and what not to starch.  So far, I have had ill luck with them.  There is all the difference in the world in these critters.  You bet oui quoique.  Ses(?) immense. 

I met Mrs. Banks on rue Scribe.

 

[p.62-63]

Rec’d letter from Margaret of 20th, postmarked 22d Septr.  All well.  Lottie met Dr. Tasker in the street today, en route to Switzerland.

Prescott left today for his wife and Switzerland – o.k.

 

6th October 1874

Lottie and I drove to the Butte Chaumont this p.m. and we encountered Mrs. Hicks going in the same direction.  We had a confab with herself and her friend, drove about, and home again.  I slept very badly, a dreadful pain in my back, whether it is the wine or not, I don’t know, but it is very disgusting.

I received a letter this morning from A. Seignette L’Eveque & Fils, La Rochelle, with an invoice of a case of brandy(?), the same as last year and am to pay Mons. A. Seignette 70 francs for the same, freight &c 23.65.

 

7th Octo.

The case of brandy has arrived and I have paid to this hotel 23.65 francs freight, douane, &c.  Last year it was 23.45, then I paid in person.

I called on Hurlbut, he changed 2 ten pound notes at par & gave me just fcs. 500, very low exchange, the lowest we ever got on London.  But I had a superb old Granada punch, good enough to make one’s hair stand up.

S. P. Dewey wrote Mr. Hurlbut giving(?) his address to me care of Eugene Kelly & Co. at New York plain S. P. Dewey San Francisco, and begging me to write him at both places.

I drove to 5 rue Montmorency 5 and bought of Massonat Ainé 1 doz. little boxes for rings, ½ ditto Russia leather [gives prices].

Grand maison of many things – see catalogue on file.

 

[p.64-65]

I then drove to D. Du Puy, 8 rue du Perche.  He has set 2 old cornelians, one the balance and abundance, the other a sphinx with wings, both antiques, for seals, very pretty, each o.u. francs, U.S. fcs.  I left with him my turquoise bot [sic] in Egypt to be finely set in a cluster of 15 or 16 pearls, handsomely ornamented for u.s. – u.s. francs, rien ne plus.  2 scarabia [small drawing of stick pin] as pins for scarfs [sic], environs de f.u. francs each.  One little image I got on the Nile, “lapis lazulia,” in a pin f.s. franc, and 1 little scarabaei [written several times] at f.s. franc.  All to be presentable and done on the 15th October prochain, vendredi.

I have ordered 1 doz. collars from Jourdain & Brown, 14 rue Habevy or Halvey, near the grand new Opera House, good fellows, and they may do for warm weather.

 

8th October 1874

Lottie and I took a drive in the Bois de Bologne – Boulogne this afternoon, very pleasant indeed.  We called at Miss Ellis’, 28 rue de Bassand 28, to find Miss Annie Palmer.  I left our card for her, the maid said Miss Annie had gone to Auteuil but that all her letters were directed to care Miss Ellis.  Received letter from Henry I. Sherlock & Son, saying the trunk has safely arrived and is in bond.  Wishes me to give them a day or two’s notice to get it out and put it on board the ship when Miss Palmer sails &c, all of which I must attend to.  Thompson Pill.  [gives ingredients for the medicine, plus directions for dosage]

 

[p.66-67]

Slow in its operation – assists nature, that’s all.

Hughes says at Number 21 rue Bon Enfants is a first rate jeweler fabricant.

A young gentleman from Vevay says Strong is going to Aix les Bains, and after that to Nice.

Paid hotel bill 459 fcs.

 

9th October

I can make twenty or thirty cigarettes in an hour and two okes [i.e. okas] of Tobacco will last a year, cost all told not more than thirty francs of best Oriental tobacco, Cairo.

In Scotland where

“None are swept by sudden fate away

All whom him yet spares with age decay

By pills I am going to order(?)”

a box of Thompson’s pills today on the “Toodles plan,” good thing to have in the house – bah.

Austin’s friend says the best place for lager bier [beer] is 18 rue Blond 18.  Will go and try it.  Ah(?) recon(?)

This turns out to be a perfectly lovely day.  I rode round the block from the Grand Hotel to the Bastille, went to the old Place Royal; enquired of an engraver just at the sortie what he would furnish me a plate handsomely engraved with my name and one hundred cards.  He said 10 francs pour tout in the very best style of the art.  I took his card and omnibus’d around to Hotel du Louvre where I found Dottie and where I am writing this.    Bout [bought] one great piece of sealing wax(?) for 2 francs and am prepared to seal things up.

I had the pills prepared by Robert(?), 30 pills cost 2 francs.

I met Mr. Poulain, 37 rue de l’Echiquier. 

I bought 1 doz. fresh eggs and one small cheese, 3 pairs, etc. [gives prices]

Turn over

 

[p.68-69]

10th October

Time runs clickety click, “tempus fugit.”  I have fixt [sic] my toe nails and corns this morning very much to my satisfaction – tres agreeable, but it is work for me to get at them.  That is, the rest of me – what am I?  What for?  Where’s the use of dis gemman [this gentleman]?  Don’t see it.  But “Just as I am without one plea,” etc.  [This is a line from a hymn.]  “The Mountains” have sent home my trousers and we are quits.  Trousseau brides clothes, trouver bon – to like, to approve, trouver mauvais – to dislike.  Se trouver mal – not to be well.  Se trouver bien – comfortable [etc.  various French expressions of being sick or well]

This promises to be a charming day.  The sun is out in full lustre and warmth.  Fine fall weather à Paris.


Paris – 10th October 1874

Madame Joel Wolf with all her diamonds called on us yesterday evening; a sweet woman.  An Irishman was with her.  Mrs. Hicks sent up her cards, that’s tout.

I met P. Remsen Strong and his daughter on the rue de la Paix today, fresh from Vevey.  They report the autumn perfectly charming tout through.

There I saw also Mr. William F. Alcock; he gave me his card and will call.  He is a gentleman.

The Bon Marché have sent home my 3 pr. of knitted red woolen drawers.  They are elegant but have a queer odour, the colour probably, and the ingrates have charged 20.50 per pair.  They offered them at pair(?) 20 francs.  Lottie paid the bill sixty one 50/100 fr., and refuses the money back – kind of her.  Now I am fitted with woolen underclothing complete – never had so good stock.

 

[p.70]

Sunday morning 11th October 1874

I have tried on my knitted drawers from the Bon Marché – they are a perfect success, exactly right in all respects and such an improvement upon old Merlier sewed things, the comfort in the wear is immeasurably in favor of the knitted elastic article, and the probabilities are they will more than double outwear and outlast them.

Jourdain & Brown have sent home my collars.  These I do not regard as so great a triumph, but can turn ‘em down and worry through with them je pense.  My commissariat is now complete and if I could but see Annie Palmer and get the trunk off I could be happy – [illegible]happy.

We have partaken of a very frugal dejeuner, eggs boiled in the Aetna, a cup of tea, and a roll.  “In it thou shall do no manner of work, thou and thy son, and thy daught-

 

[At this point, a few pages are not consecutive.  The transcription will continue chronologically, with the page numbers properly noted.  The entry for October 11 skips from page 70 to page 73.]

 

[p.73]

er, thy man servant, and thy maid servant, thy cattle, and the stranger that is within thy gates.”  I boiled them eggs with as little alcohol as possible and exactly three minutes, but the eggs were commercial, not strictly new lay’d.  The woman Madame David said they were and I bought them for such.  I don’t blame the hens – they have not lied.  Madame David may go to H-ll and look for Uriah for all I care.  I am done dealing with her.  Our bill is 433.90 and I have paid 36 francs for dinners at the table d’hôte besides. 

This is a glorious day, soft and balmy. 

“Ascenseur pour tous les etages,” other words “a lift to every story.”

I have overhauled everything but I cannot find anything but Naples soap.  Wish the devil had that.  Au Gagne Petit il parle bien francais. [other French phrases]

 

[p.74-75]

[a few French phrases]

 

Mardi 13th Octobre, St. Edouard

Yesterday, I posted a letter via Brindisi to “Le Docteur Warren Bey, Chirugien en chef de L’Armee Egyptienne, Caire,” officially Edward Warren, Bey, chirugien en chef de l’Armee, & Docteur en Medecin & Chirurgie, Maison de la Bourse, en face des Ecoles, Ditres(?) de 8-10 heures, de 4-5 & 8-10 du soir. 

The above is copy of Docteur Warren’s two cards which he enclosed to me by his favor of 24th September.  See it. 

I met Regia Barclay this morning at the Chatham Hotel.  He looks thin and [illegible].  He said he would call on us.  Don’t believe it.  The Barclay boys do not like me overmuch, Harry non at all. Pas de tout – the blackguard!

We had a grand brew at the Chatham, principle [sic] ingradiance [i.e. ingredient] Old double [illegible] Granada Rum, which Don(?) Hurlbut brought out with him.  Pretty much the same kind Burnham used to bring out at Long Branch and Saratoga when he felt “saturated,” satiated with fashionable society.  Satiety = satelite.

We drove up to the rue de Richelieu to [illegible] for Hurlbut’s new hat, with Mr. H; took him home and then had a lovely drive on Bois de Boulogne all round by the borders of the Seine – charming.

Madame Hearn called and passed the evening with us.  She looks well.

 

Mercredi 14th Oct. Paris

A beautiful day.  Walked in the Jardin des Tuileries before breakfast at the Madelaine Tavern.

I drew 10 £ A. 49.520 at Munroe & Cie and rec’d just 250 francs.  Mrs. Pepoon afterwards drew for eighty pounds

 

[p.76-77]

& received 2004 francs.  They cheated me and I think they did her.

I paid Jourdain & Brown in full of all accts. [accounts] for 1 doz. fause cols and making the same 16.10 francs.  After, I bought and paid for 1 pair of nice tidy gloves, two buttons and plenty large enough for 6 francs.  Lottie and I then drove to Bois de Boulogne to the Jardin d’Acclimitation and there we saw the monkies [sic], chimpanzees, etc., and two large fine elephants with a doz. persons on each.  A great many beautiful birds of many sorts and fine feather.  Wonderful colors.  A very fine collection taken as a whole – superb.  We finished up by driving about the Bois and saw a great many people.  The Strongs had called.  Gibbon came in for the evening.  Madame Smith entertains tonight.

 

Jeudi 15th. St. Therese. Paris

I wrote a note to Miss Annie Palmer yesterday morning and Micawber-like, I was determined to take it to her, or rather to her boarding house, so that I could leave it for her in case she was out.  Well, Miss Annie, I was told, had “gone to England this very morning.”  I drove down to Munroes and wrote on the outside of the letter a request that I hope Miss Palmer would do me the favor to let me know when she was to embark and the name of the ship, &c.  This I enclosed under an envelope to Miss Annie Palmer to the care of I.S. Morgan & Co. [gives address], and I posted it paid, then I drove to no. 1 rue de la Michodier “de Bernede.”  Bronzes(?) At 3 o’clk I met at the hotel Charles Thompson and I paid him 70 francs for brandy from A. Seignette.

 

[p.78-79]

[another note about payment to Charles Thompson]

Lottie and I then drove up to the Bois de Boulogne.  Had a charming drive, and a poor dinner.

Mr. Hearn and Mr. Hughes came in after dinner and passed an hour.  If I do not hear from Madelle. Annie Palmer by tomorrow morning, I will write to Margaret to make another arrangement and demand an instant reply.

Paid board bill up to 9th inclusive, 432 francs.

After breakfast, I called at Munroes, and then on the Hurlbuts.  We had a “brew” and then drove to Monsieur F. Junet, commission merchant, no. 15 rue Richer.  Was introduced to Massieur by Mr. Hulbut and was showed over the establishment till we found a scale.  I weight 283 pounds and Hurlbut 227 ¾ pounds.  [another note about their weights]

F. Junet is an excellent man, well known to Hearn and Hurlbut, ask them.

Hurlbut wants us to come on Saturday next at 2 o’clock p.m. to Kellner’s, fabricant de voitures at 109 Av. Malakoff, to see his new and splendid new carriage made for 7000 fcs. and all boxed and delivered on board ship at Havre for New York – free of all charge.  Binder built Dewey’s carriage, but Dewey recommend this man as the best.  He works for Lorrilard & Spencer and other nobs.  We must go and see it and him.

 

[p.80-81]

Our head waiter said across the table to one of his under flunkeys the other day, when he had placed the wrong person in my seat, “I wish you’d keep your hies [eyes] a little hopen [open] – will yer?”  How’s that for high?

Mr. Hurlbut wishes me if I see any good oil paintings offered very very low in price to buy for him from one to the thousand francs worth for him, and leave it altogether to my taste what to buy.

 

16th October

 I wrote Margaret a long trunk letter about Miss Annie Palmer and requested her to write me immediately in reply, with instructions what to do with the trunk.  I paid D. Du Puy, 8 rue du Perche, 106 francs in full for setting my turquoises 50, 2 pins scarabia 18 ea.  36, 2 pins scarabia 10 each 20, [total] francs 106.  They are all pretty, au bien fait.  Du Puy has sent my scarabia pins very handsomely and I think my commissariat in that line is now quite complete, n’est ce-pas?

 

17th October, samedi

Very charming.  My scarabia scarf pins are a great success.  I like them in the first place because they are pretty and very interesting, but more that I got them in Egypt and brought them from there.  Again, no other person has anything like them – they are unique and remarkable, tres distingué.  I gave Peter R. Strong his choice out of 4 scarabia and I think he chose the poorest but possibly the best colour.  I don’t think he has it set – his is hardly worth it, what he left were every one of them.  The turquoise, though nicely set in pearls and pretty, is not interesting to me, comme les scarabie – or scarabaeus – a kind of beetle.  Wrote Margaret from Munroes and again from the Louvre Hotel, after I had received the telegram from Miss Palmer.

 

[p.82-83]

“Mrs. Marshall Pepoon, Grand Hotel au Louvre, Paris.  Leave Liverpool the twenty second in Oceanic, White Star Line. A Palmer.”

 

18th October.

This morning we have a note from Miss Palmer dated at Hall Grove, Bagshot, Oct. 17., in case you need it my address in L’pool is North Western Hotel.

Upon the receipt of this I immediately wrote to Henry L. Sherlock & Sons [gives address,] to put the trunk on board Oceanic, White Star Line, free of any charge whatever, and on separate card sent the key to Miss Palmer, care of Sherlock & Sons, and I enclosed a letter for Miss Palmer in the one to Sherlock, thanking her &c.  I requested Sherlock to send me a bill for all expenses and promised to pay it by Mr. Hurlbut immediately.  Then I wrote Margaret a letter to let her know that all was serene and lovely on this side.  All works well now and will be satisfactory, I think.

Took a paper up to Hughes and enquired after Lolah.  She seems a little better today but still is in her bed. 

Change entire this morning, under and over, tout à fait.

 

19th Monday morning

It rains all day.  Elize is here.  I go to Lucas for my dejeuner.  I would go into the Louvre gallery but it is fermer [i.e. fermé] so I go home.  We have a fire and keep as comfortable as possible.  No one calls and I go to bed.

 

20th Tuesday

It has cleared up and is very fine.  I step around, in the rear of this hotel is the rue des Bons Enfants, no. 21 is Pepin fils, joaillier, bijoutier frabricants.  Hughes’ house.

 

[p.84-85]

I left with Pepin to be reset in a gold ring so that it will revolve and show both sides, my fine old scarabie, Thotnes III dynasty, complete for francs 28.

And 2 imitation Etruscan scarabia, cornelian, to be elegantly set with gold rims and half moon buttons to match, francs 32.

My two blue genuine scarabia, the toad and Phat, to have elegant rims & gold settings like those done by Du Puy, 8 ea.  16

My black Roman glass scarabia mounted for a watch seal  10

Total ensemble  86.

And he will allow me for the gold that is now on the old scarabia eight francs.  All are to be ready for me on next week Friday the 30th instant.  Took breakfast at Lucas and called after on Hurlbut, has a fine true brew of Old Granada rum, water, sugar and lemon, after which I took Hurlbut out to see the Place Royal, the column of the Bastille, and so forth.  Home.

The Hurlbuts each gave me their photographs, small size [written in small letters].  Their trunks are all off, and they will go about next Saturday, as they sail from L’pool by the Russia on the 31st, Saturday week. 

Monsieur L’Hommedieu told Charlotte the [sic] Madame Tighe, the woman we have seen about the hotel for several years past and wore a sort of black veil, she that dropt [sic] her bottle the other day when coming out of the dining room and broke it, was found dead in her room and been buried at Pere Lachaise – alas! 

Hughes told a story about a fellow, a drunkard at New Orleans who died suddenly and his nigger servant on being asked what ailed him

 

[p.86-87]

replied, dunno, massa, sept rum(?) bust thro inter de melt ad killed him, massa.  Yah, ya ha.

 

21st October, Wednesday

Elize not here today.  Sewing for poor Miss Finch or Fiske, who sail in a day or two, by permission.

Weather mixt.  Dottie ordered a carriage but gave it up after an hour and I attempted to make it go, but was back’d off by rain, hail & wind.  Dinned at Madeleine Tavern, 9 Place de Madeleine.  No one came in during the evening.

 

22d October

Got a letter from Sherlock & Sons and will send account as soon as the trunk is on board the Oceanic &c.  Saw Madame Hurlbut, she afterwards called on Lottie in the grand new landau.  I was at the Louvre Gallery with Peter Remsen, who took his old panel picture under his arm, and in we went with it to the entrance of the officers, and upstairs, up up up.  Then we were told that he could not get the old panel out again if he took it up to the bureau or any higher, but Peter was ambitious and up we went, and a queer old place is the upper part of the Louvre, all in perfect order, lots of compartments, and stairs for convenience.  Along the corridor we went till finally we were met by a fine old regimentally rigged officer who enquired “our business there.”  Strong dit, he was in quest of Monsieur le Conservateur de Musée.  Laquais says what do you want of him.  He is excessively engaged, and I do not like to interrupt him unless it is a matter of grave importance, but now you cannot get out with that panel without his permission, and with another sapient laquais, they concluded to

 

[p.88-89]

chercher pour Monsieur.  Many keys were rattled, many wise saws and nods between these eminent gentlemen, and at length we were bid “follow,” and down we were [illegible] through all the galleries, Strong lugging his beloved panel; and laquais, with a prodigiously large book under his arm and keys in hand, step’d off so fast that I could with difficulty keep up.  At length, we were brought up at a curtained door into the long gallery where the great Rubens de Medici cherubs(?) are.  Laquais went thro and left Strong and myself out of breath.  Soon a gloved(?) fine looking French gentleman unmade his congé, and Strong made his bow.  Montre(?) Messieur(?), the [illegible] was unrolled, and [illegible] & Monsieur said it was of “a school Neapolitan,” an imitation peut-être of Daca(?) Giardino(?) – not much acc’t [account] but pas mal.  He immediately wrote a clearance in the big book, something in the margin, and my poor friend was left to tie up beloved panel and trot out with it.  After which we walked through the gallery together and spent an hour delightfully.

I dined in the Palais Royal at Blot.  Messrs. Hughes & Gibbon spent the evening with us and we talked pictures, etc.

I saw Dr. Mayo and Mrs. Skewton were there. 

 

23d October à Paris.

Here is Sherlock’s bills of items

[gives figures for transporting for Miss Palmer’s trunk]

 

[p.90-91]

This bill was received late this evening after I had bid good bye to the Hurlbuts so I went to bed without a murmur, promising to rise with the lark and see the Hurlbuts encore.

I took a drive in their new carriage down the Champs d’Elysée.  It is lumbering and heavy, but easy and majestic, too ponderous for me.  One wants two Normandian(?) horses, two men in front, and nearly two behind to make that go.  “Nous verrons.”  Saw Thompson and Mr. & Mrs. Hutchings, the lively(?) at Hurlbuts.

 

24th  7 a.m.

I rose very early this morning in hopes to see the Hurlbuts before they got off, but after thinking the thing over, I did not do it.  They don’t want to be bothered with one at this time of day, so I will write to him.

I went to the Bon Marché and made enquiry about Hurlbut’s shirts and pants or drawers.  They promised vigorously to have them all over to Liverpool and in the hands of Sherlock & Sons on Friday next, in plenty time to go by Russia.  The model will go anyway, even if autre chose do not.

I wrote Hurlbut care of Langham(?) Hotel all about it and filled up with a lot of nonsense of my own, and asked him to pay Sherlock & Sons, and send my shoes if possible.  We drove out au Bois de Boulogne, saw nobody but Edgar Howland & Hicks, Mrs. Fischer, her tribe, etc.  They pass the evening with us and live at the Grand Hotel. 

Margaret looks well but is quite subdued and not as loud as formerly.  She talks about the men who were “wiped out” by the great commercial panic of N.Y.

 

[p.92]

25th October 1874 Sunday

Turned over a new leaf – tout à fait.  Got breakfast at Madeleine Tavern, met Mr. Musgrove, Jr., and then went to the gallery of the Louvre at 11 ½ and remained till ½ past two, and saw things, toute les beau tableau de belle painteur &c &c, and ran through the Grand Gallery Napoleon.  Saw the wonderful collection there of gems, I think the nicest as a whole lot in existence of one collection.  So rich, so beautiful, so superb.  And the Egyptian department – how wonderful, how grand!  And so accessible!!!!  This has been a nice day, but it has been overcast and is now fixing to be nasty for the eclipse of the moon this evening.  Nous ne verrons pas.

[several French expressions]

 

[At this point, the chronological entries go back to pages 71-72.]

 

[p.71]

[many more French phrases.]

 

26th Monday

Received a letter from H. A. Hurlbut saying that Mr. John Sloan would bring over my shoes, to arrive

 

[p.72]

26th [continued]

on Wednesday morning.  We received a letter from Gabe Tooker with a photo of little Emily, a great bonny(?) [illegible] girl.  I wrote him a long letter dated the 28th as I want it not to go till about time for the Russia of the 31st.

 

27th

Another letter from Mr. Hurlbut today.  Sloan has go possession of the shoes &c.   Wrote Hurlbut a long letter.

I ordered from Woodman & Co., 1 Saxony blue pea jacket of the very finest materials and the very best boiled silk lining all through, velvet collar, nap to run up, for 170  francs, and 2 white waist coats at 25 francs each, to try on the day after tomorrow,

 

[Now the entries are resumed in correct page number sequence, commencing with page 93.]

 

[p.93]

say Thursday at ½ past 1 p.m.

Strong and Madelle. called and announced to me that John A.(?) Stevens, his later father-in-law, was dead, &c.  Would not stay to dinner.

 

28th October 1874 Paris

Mr. Herriman told me today of the death of Van Buren Wilcoxson at London or in England, and what surprised me greatly, he says that Dr. Mayo told him that Van Buren was lately in the habit of taking too much tody(? i.e. toddy?).  That I never mistrusted sic.  I wrote Margaret a rambling letter today, which was enclosed in one to Gabe.

I met Fessenden – he looks thin but seems well.  Dottie gave me today 250 francs, $50.  I am to pay Sherlock’s bill out of it and then shall soon be short again.

 

[p.94-95]

28th October

A fine day.  Received a letter from Hurlbut.  The shoes are in Sloan’s trunk.  Sloan leaves London this Wednesday morning.  I will have my shoes tomorrow morning.  Nous verrons.  The Hicks has [sic] gone to London, will be here when she comes back, probably, if she has good luck.  Nous verrons encore.

 

29th October 1874

I rose early and made up a lot of cigarettes and went to the Hotel Chatham. The first man I saw was John Sloan.  He was à dejeuner and come out to meet me.  He had just sent my shoes which he was kind enough to bring over from Gordon de London, down(?) to the Louvre.  I took a burster(?) and went over to the Bon Marché about Mr. Hurlbut’s things.  They think they will not be ready by next Friday, so I left a memo that if not there in L’pool on the 30th in time to pack conveniently, that Mr. H would not receive or pay for the same, and that they must send the model to me at the Louvre for Mr. Hurlbut.

I found on my return a letter from Mr. Hurlbut, which I answered to the care of H.L. Sherlock & Sons at Liverpool.  That letter he will get.  I went to Woodmans to try on; they were not ready for me.  It rains and I am disgust [sic].  I try on the shoes, they fit.  I mail a letter to G. M. Tooker, care of Docteur Peckham, in which is a letter enclosed for Margaret.

Edwin Gordon’s bill is £3-8-0, for which I must send him a draft toute à l’heure.  I will do it tomorrow.  Miss Homer

 

[p.96-97]

Called to see us last evg and has today sent us her sister’s photograph.  It is beautiful indeed.  Miss Homer promised hers and we will get it today, likely.  N.V. [Nous verrons]

 

30th October 1874

Bot of Munroe & Co. their draft on London on Messrs. Alexander, Cunliffe & Co., 30 Lombard Street, in favor of Edwin Gordon, shoemaker, for my shoes, in full £3-8-0, for which I paid eighty six francs, 86 francs.  My draft on Munroe & Co. eighty six francs.  This draft I send today to Edwin Gordon by mail and request acknowledgment.

Had a long talk with Strong.  Went to Woodman’s and tried on my coat with him.  Afterwards to the office of Andrews & Co. and then home.

I paid Pepin fils, 21 rue des Bons Enfants in full 80 francs, and I left my old sous(?) there to be mounted in his best style and the old gold to go to him, 30 fcs, and to be ready on next Wednesday morning. 

I am greatly delighted with the articles Pepin has mounted for me, such as my old scarabaie and the little black Roman “dancing goat.”  I have given it to my Dottie at once for a seal.  It is jolly very.  She likes it.  This is a rainy day – hope tomorrow will be fine on the Hurlbuts’ account.

 

31st October Paris.

This is a pleasant day, the sun is out brightly and

 

[p.98-99]

the Hurlbuts have a fine day for embarking.  I do hope they will have a fine passage over the glad waters of the dark blue sea.  It is a great way over, but the Russia is a good machine for doing it.  She has done it many, many times, and so she will do it many times more, I trust.

I think I will get a letter from Hurlbut Monday or Tuesday from L’pool or from Queenstown, with a receipt from Henry L. Sherlock & Sons for the expense on that same trunk we went to Margaret by Miss Palmer, and I think the trunk, by the Oceanic, will arrive in New York by Monday next, safely.  N.V.

My letter to Margaret and Gabe Tooker will embark to [word missing? Or to written by mistake] by the Russia and in eleven days they will have it in N.Y.

We must begin to pack up to get off to the south soon.

 

Paris 31st October 1874

A lovely day.  I have meet Genl. Darling(?) and Madame Mygalt(?) & Mr. Ward,   General Starring(?), Admiral Gordon Watson Case and his two daughters, P. Remsen Strong & daughter, who gave me her photo for Madame Mrs. Moore and the sore headed woman Mrs. Francis Salters(?) Banks and several others.  We drove to Andrews & Co., 10 Place Vendome.  Lottie drew for 100£ sterling for which she received 2505 francs.  We had a nice drive on the Bois de Boulogne and here we are in Salon 95 after a poor dinner.

The Hurlbuts are off from Liverpool before this time, en route for the land of the great American eagle that soars aloft, soars aloft.

 

[p.100-101]

Tomorrow is All Saints Day, the first of November.

 

Paris 1st November 1874

Ich bien extreme bon Marché

I received last evening from Mr. Hurlbut a letter of yesterday, the articles from the Bon Marché were all received and packed in the trunk, and they are off today no doubt.  I wish them a prosperous voyage, yes I do.

Wurzinger, tailor for Mf. Turnbull, rued du Helder 4, upstairs.  I will try him on for 1 pair of pants.  None of them fit me here like Timewell or Hill Brothers of London.

I think the scarf pin jascinto is very beautiful.  If the face was not so broken, it would be worth a great deal of money.  As it is, it is very very very pretty, a brilliant deep burgundy wine colour.  J’aime ca beaucoup.  Some say it should be set open in the back.  I think not – they set rubies close like this.  Others suggest setting it in a ring – that would be pretty and could be worn either on a scarf or the finger, but it is well enough as it is.  I have a letter from Edwin Gordon, [gives address,] with receipt in full for boots & shoes to date.  The old man is very prompt and makes excellent shoes.  W.H. Phillips has gone there. 

I went into the Louvre Gallery today and examined the Deligne(?) particularly.  Oh, but they are nice – must go in there again.  130(?) in the first room is a little Teniers, The Vision of St. Anthony – very pretty indeed.  This is a lovely day and a fête à Paris de eglise [sic].

 

[p.102-103]

2nd November, All Souls Day, Paris

This is a perfectly bright, lovely morning, very calm.  The Hurlbuts are whistling along home briskly, je pense.  Hughes and Mr. Gibbon were in and spent the evening with us.  I dined at Lucas; Dottie did not go down but had dinner in her room.

I made Dottie a present today of my new cornelian sleeve buttons just beautifully mounted in fine gold by Pepin, 21 rue des Bons Enfants.  He charged 32 francs and the scarabaei I paid 25 francs for in Rome at D. Santelli’s, via Frattenisi.  The buttons are jollie, tres joli, and Dottie likes them.  I shall go after breakfast today to Junet, 15 rue Richer, & pay the amount that Mr. Hurlbut paid Sherlock & Sons on the trunk.  I make it about 56.37 francs, but whatever it is, it must be pd.

 

Paris – 2nd November, All Souls

Yesterday was Allerheiligentag [also gives names for All Saints in French and Italian].

I have paid Mr.(?) 56.35 F. Junet, to the credit of Henry A. Hurlbut, the exact amount he paid Sherlock & Son for Mrs. Peckham’s trunk at Liverpool, £2-5-1.

29/10/4.  Paris to Bruxelles, 7.20 matin, arrive 1.58 [gives further details about a train schedule]

Madame Bereda is at number 5 Avenue l’Emperatrice for one year.  He told me that in that is the brother of the lady who is Madame Bereda’s friend, a good looking Spaniard.  I meet Smith Clift at Munroes; he looks fat and somber as an andiron.

We had a lovely ride on the Bois.  Saw Watson Case and his daughters, nice looking faces(?), no much like Watson to speak of.  Very pleasant day indeed.

 

[p.104-105]

Paris 3rd November.

Fine day.  Paid bill 378.10.  Lottie handed me 70 francs for amt. paid on the trunk to Junet, Hurlbet, &c.

[French phrases]

I received a letter from Margtte. of 18th October.  She complains of getting nothing from me.  Oceanic arrived Oct. 2d, sailed 22d.  Margaret has the trunk and is opening it this moment to an admiring audience, je pense.  “Trunks and cases forwarded to the United States through our agent in Havre, George H. Draper.” 

I went to the Jardin de Plantes and was greatly delighted there.

When I came home, I found a letter from Mr. Hurlbut at Queenstown of Sunday the 1st Nov., all nice and well.  They are finally off.

I received a note from F. Junet about my painting which I answered post instantly, en ville; he will have it by the time he has dejeuner tomorrow morning.

Monsieur Riferson(?) called to talk Egypt with me and spent an hour very pleasantly, tho Dottie thinks it very odd that I could not speak my friend’s name to introduce him, but was obliged to ask the name.  It is often so with me – I see a person and know him perfectly but for the life of me I can not utter his name. 

“Ne donnez rien à manger à la giraffe.”  Garden of Plants.

 

Paris 4 November 1874, 8 .am.

A perfectly superb morning.

How time flies.  Hurlbut is ½ over the Atlantic already.  It seems like yesterday I saw him at Vevey.  Sic transit Gloria mundi.

Ecrire franco.

The glittering toy so fiercely sought

Has lost its charm by being caught.

 

[p.106-107]

4th November 1874, Salon 94-5, Paris at Grand Hotel du Louvre

Yesterday I went in the Louvre Gallery with young Colt of New Jersey, he that went up Pilatus with his sister once with Geo. H. Warren and others, myself included.  We slept up there.  And if my memory serves, we encountered a few fleas.  We met P. Remsen S. in the Louvre with Mrs. MacAlister, Charley, and his daughter.  Drove on the Bois apres; the day was perfectly gorgeous.  Hughes, Madame Hughes, Lolah Hughes, Mr. Gibbon spent the evening with us.  This 4th Wednesday, I paid Pepin in full for setting my sow(? son?) 28 francs, in fine gold, exactly in imitation of the old ring broken.  It always was beautiful and now is specially fine.

This morning is perfectly splendid and we cannot but believe that the Russia must have enjoyed magnificent weather.  Nous verrons.

 

5th November 1874, Thursday

Paris weather charming.  Made up a batch of cigarettes this morning from my new book of I.O.B.

Quotations: 

“Kill yer, he’s only going to take yer in the country.” - Jane “Sheppard was the d—d d—l, she said.  Walter Rosevelt [i.e. Roosevelt?], Miss Humillir(?), Mrs. Pussills(?), Old Variam,” Copper Gilly, Johnny Plantain, Mr. Jones the goldbeater, and Mr. Bogert, Mrs. Booray and Eccles Gillender, Hugh Macfarland and au jour neighbors.  Selah, Mrs. Leontine, 10 rue du Champs de Mars.

“The glittering toy so fiercely sought

Haw lost its charm by being caught.”

[French phrases] 

 

[p.108-109]

Paris, 6th November 1874

It is thick today and looks like to rain.  Nous verrons.

I think of going to Antwerp the next week, probably Monday, to look after my painting by van Dyck.

Received from Dottie 150 fcs, thirty dollars, six pounds, all in one lump.

The Adriatic came from New York to Queenstown in 7 days and 22 hours; that’s pretty quick.

Received a letter from Miss Homer at Queenstown, she having embarked on the “Samaria.”

 

7th November, Paris

A very muggy day, not raining but on the point of it.  Saw Madlle. Strong at Munroe’s; said her paternal was ill and at home.  I hastened with Mademoiselle round and found Peter up, smoking.  He has a little fever only, is(?) not sick.  I drove to Junets and left word that I was going to Antwerp and would notify him on my return.  Drove to Woodmans and tried on my new splendid coat and two white vests. With a little alteration, all will fit superbly. 

Saw an elegant wagon all painted and [illegible] up in large letters all over it were these words: “viands pour les chiens, meat for dogs.”  What a people, to be sure.

[illegible] at adaptability have the French, very.  Theodore Payne says that Prescott is here and that the “sweet potatoe [sic] vine” is sick.  We are sorry and must go to the L’Athenée and see them tout de suite.

 

[p.110-111]

PARIS, Hotel du Louvre, Sunday, 8th November

Very humid and dampish.  Went for a little while to the Louvre Gallery and home.  Rather a good dinner than otherwise.

Hughes not present, Gibbon on hand.  I am preparing to go to Antwerp on Monday to look after my van Dyck.

 

Paris, 9th November 1874, Monday

Still humid.  No letters, but a prayer book from Margaret at Munroes.  It is dreadfully heavy and does not give perfect satisfaction.  I am all packed and ready to go, taking my little painting by Hobbema along with me, to submit it to the Dutchmen to be, if possible, authenticated – it is true.

St. Antoine, 67 Charles Guyt(?), Place Vert, [gives details of money exchange] for Antwerp.

I took the cars at 1/4 before 4 pm, arrived at Bruxelles at 10.25, was detained a long time, getting from one station to another and finally started from station du Nord at 30 min. apres 11, and arrived in Antwerp 27 minutes after 12 midnight, and drove to St. Antoine Hotel and went to bed supperless.  Paid by rail 40.40, cab to Chemin du Nord 2.50, [total] francs 42.90. 

 

Antwerp, 10th November 1874

Had Lola for breakfast, after went and found Nott[illegible], a great banker.  He was glad to see me and recommended Messrs. Delehaye Freres, 2 rue des Recollets 2, pres du musée, dealers in tableaux.  Then I drove to no. 10 rue

 

[p.112-113]

{Antwerp}

des Juifs no. 10 & thence to 36 rue Haute, where I found Kusenberg & Co., and at this moment do not like them.  With their young man, we drove to the Magazine Store House, where I saw the painting, or rather the box, in a terribly bad place, very damp, &c.  The wretched herr(?) said the storage on the case was 30 francs and said something about other expenses.  I at once drove to Delehaye Freres and gave them an order for the case on Kussenburg & Co., telling them to pay and deliver the case instantly, & I would pay their bill.  I then telegraphed Dottie and drove home and saw Pieters(?) and

{Antwerp}

shall now write Dottie a line.

Paid cab 4 fc.

That wretch has made a bill against my painting of 100 francs, and I have paid it and sent for the painting.  It rains and the man comes(?) at Messrs. Delehaye, where I am waiting, to say that the case is so large, it will cost 5 or 6 francs to bring it.  I say bring it, d—n the cost, and he goes like shot from off a shovel for it.  Wait nearly 2 mortal hours, it did not come, and I drove home to the hotel where I had a superb dinner, and here I am at the end of the first day & have not even seen my painting yet.  Tomorrow I hope to do better.  Nous verrons.  I got a note changed at Nott[illegible].

 

[p.114-115]

Antwerp, 10th Nov. 1874

They gave me 251.20 francs for it, 49.515 I sued and have endorsed the other also.  It rained.

 

11th November 1874

After breakfast and with great difficulty, I got the case open, the screws were all rusty and the screw driver dull, but at length she come off, and barring the cobwebs, the grand old painting looked well after brooming the dirt off.  We sent thro the rain for Mr. Nicola, an expert, but he could not be come at, being before the Tribunal (court) at Malines.  Mr. Deleha expressed an opinion that the painting was “rightly like van Dyke,” but wondered(?) how so good a painting ever got out to America.  Well, after waiting a long time for, and in hopes Mr. Nicola might come in, I sent for a grand expert, a very old man, very crotchety and opinionated, an expert who at once said Robert van Hoeck, and when I pointed out that van Dyck’s face appears twice in the tableaux, and Rubens once, then he undertook to tell me that these were not portraits of those men, but that the picture was incontestably by van Hoeck, original beyond all question, and if other than a religious subject, would be worth a large sum of money.  He gave a written opinion & charged 40 francs for it.  I went home disgusted to the last degree and wrote Dottie.  Eat [sic] a big dinner & went to bed.

 

[p.116-117]

Antwerp, 12th.

Very unpleasant weather still.  Drove down to Delehaye.  An amateur(?) or two have heard of the painting and drop in to see it and ask the price.  Nicola cannot be found, I am tired and disgusted and will got to Bruxelles, leaving the painting in such a shape that it can be shipped to London or Paris if I cannot get Mr. Leroy(?) to come and see it.

Delehay is clever as possible, but says that there is no one that will buy the painting, but they want to know my lowest price.

I am asked upstairs to take some wine & warm up.  Go to hotel, get dinner, pay bill and go to Bruxelles at Hotel de l’Europe.  Go to sleep.

 

Bruxelles.  13th November 1874

I am cold, the weather is bad, do not shave, get a light breakfast and walk out in pursuit of Messieurs LeRoy.  I see the son, who tells me “his father has gone to Paris.”  Everything works badly for my poor van Dyck.

I order it sent to London to the care of McKean & Co., 44 Borrough Road, London, subject only to freight, and must write them immediately that I have done so.

I telegraph Dottie that “keep Willie up till I come, about ten o’clock, leave at half past two,”  3 francs.

Young Mr. LeRoy asks me to send him a catalogue when my picture is sold in England, London, don’t forget it.

 

[p.118-119]

Paris, 14th Nov., Saturday

It is very cold here this morning.  I slept tolerably well.  Breakfast at Lucas.  Go to Monsons(?), find nothing there.  I went in to McKean & Co.’s office and find that they have an office in London, probably the head centre at 31 Lombard Street, E.C., and there [sic] Depot Works is at 42 Borough Road S.E., J. A. McKean’s.  I wrote to them at 31 Lombard Street that I have consigned through Messrs. Delehay Freres a painting and requested them to pay the charges on the case and notify me and I would remit immediately to them at London or pay their concern here, &c, &c.

I called with Strong at his house, & then called with Charlotte on Mr. & Mrs. Nelson, Mr. & Mrs. Prescott, the General Darling, and Mrs. Matilda Mygalt(? perhaps Mygatt), & finally on Mrs. Whitman, 128 Rue Bassano.  All were out, and we went out to the Bois de Boulogne, but it was blasted cold.  And here we are after, snug as bugs in rugs, in 95 with a blazing fire going.

We went to bed at ½ past nine and just at that point of time, Mr. William Nelson of Edinborough [sic] with all his family called to see us and Dr. Turnbull.  They were too late for us; peut-être Turnbull has not turned in.

 

[p.120-121]

Paris, 15th Nov. 1874

This bids fair to be a sunny, nice day, and perhaps it will be, as all the Sundays lately have been very charming indeed.  All Paris is usually out of doors, and if the weather is pleasant on Sunday, there is a general outpouring of le monde Francaise.

The Nelsons threatened to come again to see us today.  I must be on the qui vive for them.  I slept tolerably and this morning feel perfectly well.  Mr. Charles T. Fisher [sic] was in to see us yesterday.  Fischer is Fischer. 

I ran thro the Louvre Gallery this morning, having heard that the long River Gallery was again open to the public, a false report.

Mr. & Mrs. Nelson & their daughter came in to make a call.  I invited them to stay and dine, they accepted, and I was very happy to be civil to Wm. Nelson of Edinburgh.  They are very, very nice people indeed.  I gave them a bouteille of Rodera(?) champagne and a bottle of Beaune, both excellent.  Now we gave dinners to three extra persons and two bottles of wine, which together with ourselves cost 49 50/100 francs, less than ten dollars, and all of the best.  The dinners alone at the Fifth Av. Hotel would have cost $2 a piece - $10, and the wine of same quality at least $5 more.  Madelle. Turnbull came in and paid a visit, after that, the Fischers, and spent the evening, which is rainy.  Mr. Nelson seemed quite happy & thankful.

 

[p.122-123]

Paris, Monday, 16 Nov. 1874

The weather is wet but warm.  Somewhat disagreeable underfoot.

Received a nice letter from Margaret of the 1st instant, very nice and very lively.  The conundrum of when had the English the first beef tea on record.  When Henry Eighth dissolved the Pope’s bull.

Saw young Grant this morning en route to Russia.  Saw Walton & Strong and Clark & others.  “Insufficiently prepaid.” 

I have written a long letter to the Docteur Peckham, asked for acc’t for Dottie and an opinion as is an opinion, added a small postscript on the subject of letter writing and postage in general.  I paid postage in full not 3 or 6 cents but 10.

I wrote McKean & Cie, 42 Borough Road, London, about my painting coming there and requested them to write to me.

 

Paris, 17th Nov.

It rained all day.  Nothing was done.  Mr. Nelson and family came here to dine; after they paid us a good visit.  Two little bronze vases I saw and two very jimmy(?) candleholders, they want for the 4 one hundred & twenty francs.

 

Paris 18th Nov.

Just a year ago today we set out for Egypt via Turin & Brindisi.  The weather is not settled.  I received a letter from McKean & Co. [gives address].

 

[p.124-125]

18th Nov. Paris

I called on Prescott and then took my new coat back to Woodmans to be altered in the collar.  I ordered there a pair of very nice black pantaloons to be 60 francs and done next Saturday and sent home, together with a bill for all.

My pants are to have nice leather pockets, all complete.

I then drove to 49 Rue St. Andre-des-Arts.  I bot a little book there for 75 cts [centimes], and at 47 same rue, I bot a Smith’s French and English dictionary, 3 fr., and a phrase book by Smith, with pronunciation, 2 fr.

 

19, Paris

Received letters from Marfant(?) and Gabe of 6th instant, acknowledging the receipt of the trunk, which left L’pool the 22d October.  Plus vite – even quicker than letters often are gong out and back – 28 days.  It rains and is infernal, nasty overhead and underfeet.

The Strongs called while I was in the Louvre.  It rains like the diable.

 

[p.126-127]

20th Paris

Mr. Roy sent me three volumes of Mr. Vaughan’s Heir, a novel by Frank Lee Benedict.

Saw Tinsley London.

I called to see the Rt. Revd. Bishop Bedell and posted him as well as I could on the route to Egypt.  I gave him a note of introduction to Prescott, who can tell him all about the Holy Land and how to get there.

Prescott called and with him, we drove to rue St. Andre des Arts 49 to buy books & dictionary at 47 also.  He will post(?) the bishop.

“One is not a woman for nothing,” replied Susanne.

 

Paris 21st Saturday

The Bishop has seen Prescott, and Prescott has seen Bishop.  Mutual admiration.  Mr. Fraser and Mr. Andrews Co.(?) studio, 56 rue Rochedonart(?) afternoons.

Lottie & I drove out on the Bois Pontins(?).  2 # [pounds] candles for 3.60 francs pour tout.

Woodman sent home my clothes.  They fit nicely. 

Coat all lined thro soir  170,

2 vests elegant, 25 ea.  50,

1 pants, extra trim(?)  60

1 entire suit & 1 vest plus  280.

All very nice and less than half the cost in New York.

 

Paris 22d Nov. Sunday

I visit the Grand Louvre Museum.

Dottie gave 200 francs to me yesterday for pins.  Lovely day.

Received a letter from

 

[p.128-129]

Paris 23d Nov.

Maggie of 7th.

I wrote the Docteur to send 500£ sterling at 60 or 75 days date on London as before.  Dottie signed with me the letter and I hope the Dr. will respond tout de suit.

I went to the Hotel des Ventes, rue Druorow(?) and saw some pictures and other chose sold at auction.  We then took a drive on the Bois.  It was cold but pleasant.  The full sun went down and the full moon came up at the same instant, both largely magnified and glorious.

The Rt. Revd. Bishop Bedell of Ohio and wife leave tomorrow for Egypt; and Peter Remsen Strong with his daughter for Nice, sud de France, at the same point of time.

 

Paris 24th November 1874

Strong’s [sic] and Bishop Bedell left Paris this morning at 11 o’clock.  I went to the auction sale at Hotel des Ventes.  Saw a lovely pair of little bronze candlesticks, very artistic and charming, sold for 100 francs, $20 a fair price indeed, but they were ravishant(?) tout à fait.

My wash bill is 7.20 francs for 11 weeks, pas tres chere.  It has been very cold today, but clear and fine.  Mr. Gibbons moves today to this winter quarters, where he goes it for ten francs de jour – pas grands choses. 

I bought pomade and elastics today and took breakfast at Lucas.

 

[p.130-131]

25th November 1874, Paris

This has been a very cold day for Paris, very very chilly.  I met Mr. Flaner, Theodore Payne, Prescott, Cutting, &c, and then I went up to the auction sales and saw them sell the bronzes.  Came home and Mrs. Mygalt [or Mygatt] and Mrs. Darling called to see Dottie, and we had a good gabble, yew bet.

We have the heating arrangement on today for the first [time – omitted].  It takes the chill off superbly.  Out-of-doors, it seems very snowy.

 

26th Nov.  Thanksgiving Day

At ½ past eight o’clock, I took the three volumes up to the room of John Box, 409, au 4eme, and left the [sic, i.e. them] with the service on that floor for Mr. John Box, with my thanks.  This is a gloriously fine morning and I thank God that we have mercifully been spared to enjoy it.  My health is very fair and Dottie, with the exception of a cough entirely bronchial, seems pretty well.  Last year at this time, we were on the Mediterranean Sea en route for Egypt.

I called on Mrs. Governor Marcy [probably wife of William L. Marcy, governor of New York] at the Hotel de Rivoli and saw her.  She was my sister Caroline’s most intimate friend and was a great favorite with my sister Mary as well.  She has changed but little in the last 40 years, except to get old.  We were invited to the reception of General & Mrs. Slarring(?), at home today from 2 to 6 p.m., 37 Avenue de Friedland, Thursday, 26th November, Thanksgiving Day.  I was not up to going.  My heel hurts so.  Is it rheumatism?

 

[p.132-133]

I paid for 100 cartes de visit [sic, i.e. visite] 3 francs in rue Dauphin, no 3, Dewey’s man. 

Why in the world do I not hear anything regarding my painting in London?

 

27th. Paris. Friday

Nice day but chilly.  I suffered with rheumatism all night, more or less, I think more.  Both my heels were so lame that I could hardly stand on them.  What does it mean.  Prescott bought 2 sets of brilliants 1 @ 20,000, 1 @ 7200, francs 27,200, or say $3,440(?).

What is he going to do with them.  I cannot for the life of me see their value. 

Interest is $380.80 a year go on my fine cripple legs are cheap, very cheap. (???)

I wrote to Delehay Freres, no 2 rue Recollets 2, Antwerp, Belg., to write me what has become of my picture.

 

28th Paris.  Samedi

Not quite as cold today.  I took breakfast today at Madame Dijons, 29 rue de [illegible], a very nice breakfast for which I paid 3 francs, the price is 2 1/2.  Good breakfast.

The Russia from New York 18th [or 17th] arrd. [arrived] at Queenstown 27th and mails will be distributed at Munroes on Monday.

Mrs. Payne rode out with us this p.m. sur Bois de Boulogne.  Rather a dull day.  I saw Charles Khim(?) of Florence today.  He leaves tomorrow for Rome. 

 

29th. Sunday

We received a letter begging us to contribute some pretty things for a charity for incurables in Edinburgh from Mrs. Nelson.  Cool very.

 

[p.134-135]

Paris 29th Sunday

It thundered this morning and rained merrily.  I took breakfast at Dijons, and afterwards had my hair cut, under the Louvre by he that used to cut for the Emperor and Mr. Nelson. 

It is 22 hours by express, to Turin 12 hours, to Florence 10, all the way to Rome it is 44 hours.

 

Paris 30th

Thunder and rain.  Dejeuner at Dijons.  No letters from home, great disappointment.  One beggarly letter from Delehay from Anvers about the painting, in reply, the case was duly shipped on the 14th as instructed, must write to them to find out where it is.  I packed up one tray of my old trunk with my new things for travel.

 

1st December

Hughes sets out tonight for Nice; Crocker and his kit went yesterday evening in the rain.

 

Paris le 1st Dec. Il fait beau.

I paid Woodman & Co. 280 fcs, less 5%, say 14 ditto, [total] francs 266 in full, & left my overcoat there to be repaired under the arms.

Lottie drew today 100£ and bought a draft on London for £5 for Mrs. Nelson’s charity of Edinburgh. 

I received 100 francs for pocket [money – omitted], and commence “One of a [illegible].”  Nous verrons how long it lasts me. 

It has cleared up & now bids fare to make fine weather.

News comes today of the sudden death of Mayor William F. Havemeyer of New York.

 

2d Dec. 1874

Wrote Madame C. I. Nelson, Salisbury Green, Edinburgh, Scotland, & Mr. Wm. Nelson, acknowledging receipt of a new book called “The [illegible]” and enclosed £5 sterling for the

 

[p.136-137]

benefit of incurables of Edinburgh, Mrs. Nelson having solicited quelque chose for her table at the bazaar, &c.

I wrote to McKean & Co., London, about my van Dyck, and to Charles B. Fessenden about how to get brandy from Leignette of La Rochelle. 

I dined at Lucas this evening and now it starts to rain again, 9 p.m., and I am off to bed.

 

Paris, 3rd Dec.

Tres beau tempes.

I bought a packing boite full four feet long, and correspondingly wide and high, two trays and a nice large long cord, all for 50 francs, ten dollars, with my name in full on each end.  $10, it is cheap.  It was sent home this p.m. and paid for, 50 francs.  Bought of Louis Vuitton, 1 rue Scribe 1, a good man, je pense.  Good articles are high.

 

Paris 3d Dec.

We took a drive on the Bois de Boulogne.  It was lovely.  Dined at Lucas’.  The wretches at this hotel gave up our places to other parties and I was mad.  We decline to dine with them.

 

4th December à Paris.

A nice clear day.  Dejeuner à Dijons and bought some packing paper for two francs.  I began today to pack a lot of small articles in my little red sack, which I propose to fill and put into the great trunk and leave here in Paris.

Received a funny letter from McKean today.

Packing.

 

5th Paris.

Packing.  Dottie and I breakfast at Dijons.  Packing and putting to rights.  This evening have a sweet letter from Madame Nelson of course, 5£ worth.

The trunk I bought is grand but hardly strong enough.

 

[p.138-139]

So large a trunk to pack hardware in – I hope she will hold.

 

6th Dec. 1874. Paris.  Sunday.

Nearly finished packing the new grand malle.  We had a grand ball at this house from this from 10 o’clk last night till 5 a.m. this day, called “The Accomtants Ball.”   As was quite [either meant to write quiet or a word is missing] as possible.

 

7th Dec.

Clear morning.  We had a letter from Margaret and one from Maggie today, of 27th.  Nice letters.  I have made up a nice lot of segars and the machine is busted.

My heel of my right foot pains me very much.  Can it be gout?  I hope not – it is so tender, I can hardly touch it to the [illegible] or floor.

I am pack’d, & ready to be off.  Saw Mr. Carhart, George B.  Mrs Hicks is at the Londres, no. 21(?). 

I [sic] turns to rain, and I turn out to out to [sic] dinner.

 

CHECKED THROUGH END OF PAGE 138

 

Tuesday, 8th December, Paris

The morning breaks beautifully and one would think it has not rained lately and was not likely soon to again.  Nous verrons.

Dottie is greatly agitated about Walt’s order for a dress suit.  I would not bother about it at all.  The tailors here cannot fit a person here who is on the spot, particularly they cannot fit a slender person way off in America.  I could get ready to go to Rome now in just half an hour, am all packed, but not tied up.

Dejeuner at Dijons and went to the Bon Marché & bot two little memorandum books, of convenient size, 55 cts a piece, about 10 cents.  I bought 2 pair of knitted woolen gloves, 3.50 each, excellently good, but by no means cheap or bon marché.  It turned to rain before I got home and was bad all the afternoon, rainy.

 

[p.140-141]

8th Dec. Paris.

Dined at the Café Re[illegible].  After, Mr. Carheart with Madame and Lib came in and spent the evening.  Woodman’s man called to say that the suit of clothes ordered for Walton M. Peckham could not be made ready by the time set, and why should they – when they are done, they put them in a tin case and the express company take them to the address, whatever it is.  It is a thing they do every day and understand perfectly.  I am to go up tomorrow and give them the direction, and then we can go about our business.  Woodman will write to Walt at New York, and that ends it, n’est-ce pas.  I order them [illegible] W. M. Peckham, care of Dr. W. H. Peckham, 186 Fifth Av., New York City.

 

Paris, 9th December 1874

230 at(?) Woodman’s price.

I took the instructions to Woodman’s today at the hour appointed, and left all in writing, and told them to enclose the bill immediately after shipment to me at Rome, care of Costanzi Hotel, and to lose no time in getting the suit off.  I bought at the Vichy water store a largest sized tin box of their lozenges d’[illegible].  I like them, 3 francs the box.  I bought 3 cakes of “Pinards”(?) wash hand soap at 3 francs.  I left a note for Randolph Rogers at Munroes and one also at his Hotel de Lisle et d’Albion.  In the meantime, he was calling at our Hotel du Louvre.  Mrs. P. saw him, I did not.  Charles has strapped & roped my trunk - the whaler - for the Economat de Louvre.  All in apple pie order.

 

[p.142-143]

10th Dec., Paris

Beautiful day.  The now full trunks are both in the Economat, and I have the receipt for the same.  I met Rogers at Munroes.  I gave Munroe instructions to forward our letters to care of Hotel di Costanzi, and I was told that they would do it, till I could notify my correspondents of other arrangements.  They want people to open accounts with them and deposit money with them and use their letters of credit.  Hope they may get ‘em, but not Joseph.  I bought 2 pr. kid gloves, 2 buttons, for 12 francs, 1 pair of blue slippers for 4 ½ francs, cloth, but too small.  Called at Woodman about Walt’s suit.

Lottie drew for fifty pounds sterling thro Andrews & Co., 25.2 ½, got in gold 1251.25 francs.  I paid 410 francs fare thro to Rome, 841 francs left.  Got the tickets at no. 1 rue Auber(?).  they allow ten % for the difference on Italian money from Modane(?) and one is allowed ten days to stop at Macon, Aix les Bains, Turin, Bologna, Florence.  [gives times of arrivals and departures from Paris, Macon, Turin, Aix les Bains]

 

[p.144-145]

My tickets are 1201 & 1202, 204.90 each is say 410 francs. 

I wrote to Margaret that we had changed to Andrews & Co., 10 Place Vendome à Paris, as bankers.

I have given Dottie the tickets for the trunks in the Economat.

 

11th Paris to Turin.

We gave Charles 20 francs, head waiter 20, concierge 20, Marie [or Mamie] 25, Charles extra 5, porters 6, omnibus 6, porters of baggage to Macon 26, & Turin 26.  Dinner at Macon 9 fcs; breakfast at Modane 2.

Well, we had the whole of a first class compartment and came on nicely.  The ground was covered all the way with snow, and when we arrived at Macon, it was so sloppy and wet that we preferred to put it through to Turin.  So I re-registered the baggage, and before we knew it, we were at Modane [i.e. Modena?] morning of 12th at 4 a.m. and had the first new car we ever saw, and we passed through the snows and the tunnels literally without knowing it, and arrived here about 9 o’clock Paris time, at the Hotel Feder(?).  Got cleaned up, washed and over breakfast before 11 o’clock, and we are convinced it is the best way to do it - make long runs if possible.  Now we can stay over Sunday here and leave Turin at 5:50 a.m. Monday [gives details of times to arrive and depart from Florence and Rome, plus costs of fares]

Money changed at 22.05 lire for the 20 franc piece.  Settled with Dottie in full.  Afterwards, she gave me

 

[p.146-147]

{Turino, 12th}

say ten louis d’or, which I have converted to paper for incidental expenses, on which was a gain of 20 and a few sous.

We had a good dinner and a bouteille Veuve Clicquot, that is a widow that helps many over their troubles - good dinner.

Went to bed early and slept pretty well.

 

13th Sunday, Turino

Rose early, took a [illegible] powder(?) and a fair breakfast.  After, I took a walk and ride over Turin in the morning, and we are taking a nice rest, proposing to leave tomorrow morning at 5:50 for Florence, where we are due at 5:40 evening.  After dinner will pay our bill and we will crawl out slyly and early.  I like a good start, don’t you?  N’est-ce pas?

 

14th, en route Turin, Florence, Italy La Belle.

We arrive at Florence at the Hotel de l’Universe at 7 o’clock.  We were told we could have dinner soon as table d’hôte was over.  We waited and afterwards saw the table d’hôte consisted of two persons only. 

We took two rooms at 10 francs for the night and the next day, and night and the next morning at 8 ½,  we left for Rome, where we arrived at Hotel di Costanzi, rooms 5 & 6, at 30 francs per day, lights & service included.  The rooms are elegant and Costanzi sent his swell(?) carriage for us and was glad to see us, very(?).  There is nobody in Rome, or in Europe, that is clear, and there will not be many this year. 

Rogers arrived Sunday night in 42 hours from Paris, in good condition.

 

[p.148-179]

Rome, 17th December ‘74

Bought a new hat of Lowes man on the Corse for 20 lire and had my name put into it.

Our room and living(?) is to be the same hire as before, but the rooms are larger and nicer.

Wrote Margaret and was just finishing when her letter of the 29th was handed in.

 

18th Dec.

I added a long P.S. and mailed the letter to Margaret.  She writes that General Badrau(?) is engaged to marry Elize Miles(?).  It cannot be possible, but all talk only.  Nous verrons.

 

19th.

A rainy bad day.  [illegible] I got things out of my trunks after 2 p.m.  I called on Louis Lane, and then I went down to the studio of Randolph Rogers [an American sculptor] and look’d over things there {19th Dec., Rome} with the professor and came home.  Rather a stupid day.  I took two blue pills, slept poorly, but feel tolerably well now.  It is trying to clear up but will hardly make it out today.

 

20th Dec., Dominica

It stormed terribly during the night – hail and rain and wind.  It try’s [sic] to clear again this morning.

I wrote to A. Cushman and mailed the letter this morning all right.  Requested him to write me here, care of Costanzi.

Rec’d letter from Woodman, with bill for Walt’s suit, 228 francs net, this includes tin box, 10 francs, and 5% off for cash, 12 fcs.  They go by I.H.(?) Laurent from [illegible] 19th yesterday, and they have written to Walt by mail.

 

[p.150-151]

21st December, Rome, lunedi

The most infernal weather that ever was.  Shine, hail, rain, blow, light dark - all within five minutes.  The elements are really at strife one with the other.

Yesterday drove to the Colosseo [sic], St. John Lateran, and about, but it was unpleasant, very.  I came home and wrote a very amiable letter to Signore Roswell Skeel(?).  Did not allude to anything connected with the luxury of travelling abroad, but try’d to make him happy by alluding to old times and things, and made a little fun and enclosed my photography & a little fun about that, too. 

This morning the weather is hateful.

Eugene Benson and his kit have gone to the Nile with Tom Appleton of Boston!!!  Did’st not hear a noise?

I gave Huddy(?) a pencil.  Did not sleep at all well.  “Shadows my Lord have caused more terror to the soul of Richard &c.”  [see Richard III, V, iii, line 217, which reads in part, “shadows tonight have struck more terror to the soul of Richard….”]

 

22nd Dec., Rome.

I gave Huddy a letter to Edward Warren Bey at Cairo, Egypt.

I wrote to Woodman & Cie with draft for Walt’s clothes in full for 228 francs, on Drexel(?) Hargas(?) & Co.  I wrote to Andrews & Co., 10 Place Vendome, telling them if any letters came to send them here. 

It has partially cleared up, but not permanently, je pense.

Lottie drew thro Eyre & Matteini on Brown Shipley & Co. for £100, at 27.65 is 2765 fcs.  Dft. on Paris of(?) 255 lire for 228 francs, francs 2510.  Woodman’s bill for Walt’s clothes, then she drew(?) for 200 lire and left the balance  2310 francs on deposit with them, the old Bowles(?) plan, exactly – not good.

 

23rd Dec.

A beautiful, bright morning shines on Rome.  The wind is round and all things indicate beau temps, so mote(?) it be.  It is cool but charming.

 

[p.152-153]

ROME

Mr. Wm. P. Wright introduced me to Mr. Potter, member of Parliament.  I found him a very interesting gentleman indeed, have never met one more so, very much in favour of American now – was so all through our war and has been goodly inclined always.

Louis Lang(?) spent the evening with us and was very funny.  Sore head Huddy, née Garrett of Philadelphia, Miss Wells of Boston, and her friend called during the evening.

 

Rome, 24 Dec. 1874

This is a lovely morning, cool and divine.  I feel tolerable.  Pd. 393.75 one weeks board.  Introduced to T. Bayley Potter, M.P., yesterday by Mr. Wright.  My neighbors at table are of the name of Mr. & Mrs. Searanoke(?).  She has a beautiful miniature of one of her ancestors by  Zimpe(?) or some such name.  It is simply superb.  Mr. & Mrs. Davidson with about 9 small childers [sic] and one at the breast sit next below them.  They are [illegible].

 

Christmas 25th December, Rome

Was a fine day and passed pleasantly enough. 

Dottie went to her own church in the morning.  Rogers and I drove up to the Capitol and saw Marcus Aurelius and some other nice things there; then we drove back to Wazzarni(?), took a snifter; and thence for Lottie and home till ½ past 2 p.m.  Then we drove to St. Marie Maggiore, where mass was given in the most unctuous style; thence we drove to St. Peters and Monte Pincio(?), all very agreeable.  We at last had a sweet bow from Bessie Field.  Had a good dinner, after, Mrs. George B. De Forest(?)came and spoke to us, and the Huddys made a formal farewell call, and at ½ past ten, I formally turned in and slept well.

 

26th

The Huddys are off this morning for Naples and Egypt – bon voyage to them, say I.  At ten, it begins to cloud up like rain.  Went over to Campod[illegible] & there saw as follows, to wit:

 

[p.154-155]

1 lovely scarabia, Etruscan – 80 lire,

1 not so fine – 10 lire,

1 cameo, head of Medusa – 12 lire,

1 onyx head, beautifully cut – 10 lire,

1 intaglio, antique –

1 do. [ditto]  topaz, Oriental – 15 lire

1 little head for shirt button – 4 lire

4 little gold antique trinkets – 9 lire

[total] – 140 lire, offered for the [illegible], the prices annexed no(?) go(?) Jones(?)

 

Rome, Sunday, 27th Dec.

We rec’d yesterday evening a letter from Dr. Peckham of the 9 and 10th inst., with draft on Union Bank of London £500, 75 days date, 485 ½, 2694.52 fc.

Sketch of account, showing credit  [gives details of accounts, including taxes paid and store rents]

Wrote the Dr. today not to let Jackson [illegible].  Wrote Union Bk. [Bank] enclosing dft. [draft] for circular notes.

Junet, 15 rue Richer

De Bernede, no. 1(?)

Madame Berede, 5 ave. Emperatrice

George H. Draper, out agent at Havre

La voie lactée = Milky Way

Monsieur Paul de Canbertin(?) dans le cour du Musée du Louvre, Conserviteur,

De Bernede 1.

“Animal fantastique chimere,

On l’appelle aussi serpent,”

“Carbolic acid or phenol bobeuf(?), only to be as pint(?), the easiest method is to pour a little on a rag and breathe through it, box(?) on cough.”

Remember Hughes’s story about the crooked man who lost 1000$ and what came of it.

Woodman & Cie, 22 Chaussée d’Antin 22

 

29th Dec. ‘74

I took my Egyptian foulard to be washed to Tintoria, 3 via Frattina 3, price 1.75 lire.

 

[p.156-157]

[French phrases; an address in Paris]

 

In my large “tie up” are my cravats, shoe string, a vest buckle, a lot of medals from Rome in silver and copper, The Huguenots, Huguenots, Ganymede by Benonneto Cilini [i.e. Benvenuto Cellini?], and Joseph with his Brethren of the School of Celini, all are from the Zecca (Mint) Govermental of Rome and were strictly for myself and Mr. Dodge of Boston, Mass.

 

[more French phrases]

Scaraboeus – scarabée – scarabei

Thracian cap – Liberty cap

 

[more French phrases and addresses, mostly in Paris, mostly for shops, also some charges for Dottie made on October 6th]

 

[p.158-159]

[French phrases, an address in Paris; a pharmaceutical formula; an invitation from Madame Pepoon to Elize or Madame Monssiau, asking her to call, Mrs. Pepoon wishes to engage Elize’s services]

 

[p.160-161]

[time tables for travel from Geneva to Paris and other places; some addresses, mostly in Paris, including that of Salem H. Wales and daughter]

 

[end paper:

On this marbled end paper is found a wax impression, made with a seal, perhaps with the “balance and abundance” seal mentioned on pages 57 and 64.]