The
The Joseph Downs Collection of Manuscripts and
Printed Ephemera
Henry Francis du Pont
5105 Kennett Pike, Winterthur,
Delaware 19735
Telephone: 302-888-4600 or 800-448-3883
OVERVIEW OF
THE COLLECTION
Creator: McPheeters, William A.,
b.1833
Title: Diary
Dates: 1856-1858
Call No.: Doc. 465
Acc. No.: 93x23
Quantity: 1 volume
Location: 31 D 1
BIOGRAPHICAL
STATEMENT
Dr. William A. McPheeters was born in Mississippi in
1833. His parents were most probably Dr.
James A. and Ann Maria Dunbar McPheeters.
In 1850, he was a student at South Carolina College in Columbia
(University of South Carolina). He graduated
from the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine in 1855. During
his time in France, he was a member of the American Medical Society in Paris. Dr. McPheeters served in the Civil War as a
surgeon in Crescent Regiment from Louisiana.
After the war, he was a physician in Natchez, Mississippi. He and
his wife Laura Walworth had several children. Dr. McPheeters died on September 27, 1905, in
Memphis, Tennessee.
SCOPE AND
CONTENT
Entries contain detailed descriptions of
observations of French society, history, medical schools and education,
together with frequent mention of other Americans (mostly Southerners, many of
them doctors) in Paris and elsewhere.
McPheeters spent a good deal of time at hospitals observing treatments
and operations and attended medical and clinical lectures. He believed that a female medical student
"was entirely out of her sphere."
He took the time to visit tourist attractions, including the Louvre, the
palace at Versailles, churches, the catacombs, the Gobelins tapestry
manufactory and the Sevres Porcelain factory.
He made the acquaintance of John Mason, the U.S. minister
to France, and through him was presented to Napoleon III and his empress. McPheeter attended parties hosted by the
Masons, a ball at the Tuileries Palace, and two military reviews held by
Napoleon III. He enjoyed plays, operas,
and circus performances. He describes
some of the Parisian festivals held throughout his sojourn, both secular and
religious fetes.
McPheeters commented on the American political
situation, making negative remarks about the abolition movement. He also commented on European situations,
such as the opposition to the tyrannical king in Naples, the assassination of
the Archbishop of Paris, and a territorial dispute between Switzerland and
Prussia. He met Samuel F.B. Morse, who
was in Europe to oversee the laying of a trans-Atlantic telegraph cable.
After his time in Paris, McPheeters traveled through
England and Scotland. He loved the wild
scenery of the Highlands, enjoyed visiting ruins, and noted the “forest of
chimneys” in industrial Birmingham, where he was impressed by the various goods
in the showrooms. The diary ends with
Dr. McPheeters in Ireland, where he visited a few places before settling into
further studies at the Rotunda Hospital in Ireland.
ORGANIZATION
The entries are in chronological order.
LANGUAGE OF
MATERIALS
The materials are in English. A few phrases are in French.
RESTRICTIONS
ON ACCESS
Collection is open to the public. Copyright restrictions may apply.
PROVENANCE
ACCESS POINTS
People:
Mason, John Y. (John Young),
1799-1859.
Morse, Samuel
Finley Breese, 1791-1872.
Topics:
Abolitionists.
Circus
performers – France.
Gobelin
tapestry.
Manufacturing
processes.
Medicine -
History - 19th century.
Physicians -
Diaries.
Sèvres
porcelain.
England -
Description and travel.
France -
Description and travel.
France - Social
life and customs.
Ireland -
Description and travel.
Paris (France) -
Social life and customs.
Scotland -
Description and travel.
Diaries.
Travelers.
Physicians.
TRANSCRIPTION
OF THE DIARY
Note on
transcription: Dr. McPheeters’ spelling has been preserved, but some
punctuation and paragraphs have been added to make reading easier.
(p.1)
Journal, W.A.
McPheeters, M.D., Paris August 1856, Roria
(p.2 – blank)
(p.3)
Paris, Friday. August 1st, 1856
I now intend to commence a journal of my daily proceedings &c.
and purpose writing something every day, that I hope may be interesting and
instructing to me in after years. It
will doubtless be entirely matter of fact, and often times prosy, but such
thoughts must not deter me from carrying out my intention, for what may appear
commonplace and uninteresting at the time of writing, may at least afford some
gratification hereafter, as a mere memento to recall the events of the past,
many of which might otherwise be lost in oblivion. Now, to begin my diary –
After partaking of a cup of coffee this morning, I accompanied Dr.
Dunton to the Hospital of the Faculty of Medicine and visited the wards with
Nelaton and afterwards heard him lecture.
I did not understand much that he said, but in a short time I hope to be
able to understand all. After the
lecture he performed two operations in both of which he applied the actual
cautery. He is apparently about fifty
years of age and is considered one of the best Surgeons in Paris. I breakfasted about eleven o'clock, came to
my room and read Galignani’s
(p.4)
guide book awhile [Galignani’s
New Paris Guide, for 1855] and then went to visit the galleries of
Paintings &c in the Louvre. These
galleries are very extensive and contain many fine productions of the best
artists. I expect to visit them frequently
during my sojourn in Paris and will therefore have other opportunities of
describing them more particularly. I saw
quite a number of artists and students there copying some of the finest
pictures. Among them were several
females. Also visited in the same
building the room in which are displayed various relics of Napoleon, such as
Court and Military costumes, hats, swords, saddles, mathematical implements,
writing desk and chair, bed etc., all of which were used by Napoleon 1st during
his various campaigns &c. Also a
lock of his hair, and the handkerchief taken from his death bed at St. Helena
and many other relics. Also saw the
armors, swords &c of various kings of France. Also robes, crowns, &c. In the story above is the Marine Museum,
which contains a great number of models of ships &c in every stage of
construction, many of which were beautifully constructed. Also cannons and other implements of
war. There was one small cannon with a
revolving cylinder, with twe1ve barre1s. In another room are many African and Asiatic
curiosities, showing considerable knowledge of the Arts &c.
(p.5)
Saturday, Aug. 2nd, 1856
Early this morning after taking du café, I walked about three
miles with Dr. Dunton to the Hôpital St. Eugenie, which used exclusively for
diseases of children. Visited the wards with
Barthez and. saw several very interesting cases &c.
Today has been very hot and is very much like New Orleans weather.
At one o'clock I accompanied Drs. Dunton and Hughes to the Chapel
of St. Ferdinand in the north western suburbs of the city. We expected to see a large building with many
fine paintings but were disappointed. It
is a very neat little Chapel, erected on the spot where the Duke of Orleans (Son
of Louis Philippe), died to commemorate that mournful event. “On the 13th July 1842, as the Duke was
driving out to Neuilly to take leave of the Royal family before setting out to
the camp at St. Omer, his horses took fright and becoming unmanageable, he
attempted to jump out, but his feet becoming entangled in his cloak, he fell
and fractured his skull, and died in a few hours afterwards.” The Chapel contains a handsome sepulcher,
representing the Duke on his death bed, carved in marble. An angel at his head supplicating mercy for
the dying Prince is said to have been carved by his sister the Princess Marie,
who little thought for
(p.6)
whose tomb she was executing it.
Adjoining the Chapel in the rear is a little room in which the Prince is
said to have breathed his last. On the
wall is a very affecting painting representing the deathbed scene. It consists of a group of about a dozen
persons. Louis Philippe is kneeling
beside his son with a countenance expressive of the deepest grief. The Arch-Bishop of Paris, who consecrated
this Chapel, afterwards fell at the insurrection in June 1848.
We took a bath in the Seine after returning from the Chapel. There are several large bathing establishments
in this river called schools for swimming.
There were several hundred persons bathing at our establishment. It presented a very amusing spectacle. We had a delightful swim, as the water was
very clear and pleasant. The Seine is
scarcely more than two hundred yards in width and is only navigable for very
small boats. There are numerous bridges
across it connecting the two parts of the city. The Place du Louvre, Place du Carronsel,
Palace and Garden of the Tuilieries, Place de la Concorde and Champs Elysees
are all bordering on the Seine and on the same side and are respectively
situated in the order mentioned. The
Legislative Hall is on the opposite bank and fronting Place de la Concorde.
(p.7)
Sunday August 3rd, 1856
I went with Dr. D. this morning to an English Episcopal Ch.
[church] and had to pay a franc in order to obtain admittance. It was a small church built in the gothic
style and not well ventilated, so that it was rather too warm for comfort. The sermon was tolerable. We afterwards visited the Madeleine which is
one of the most magnificent churches in Paris.
The shape is very similar to that of Girard College, Philadelphia. It is on the Boulevard and fronts toward
Place de la Concorde Its form and
proportions are Grecian. A colonnade of
52 Corinthian columns, each 49 feet high by 16 1/2 in circumference, surrounds it;
15 on each side, 14 in the southern portico and eight in the northern. In the walls are niches containing statues of
various saints. The pediment, of the
southern end contains an immense alto relievo 126 feet in length and 24 feet in
height to the angle. It represents
Christ with Magdalen at his feet, the Angels of Mercy, Innocence, Faith, Hope
and Charity &c. This is said to be
the largest sculptured pediment in existence and occupied two years in
executing. The figure of Christ is
eighteen feet in height. The interior of
the Church is magnificently fitted up by Statues of Saints, Paintings, &c. The altar is very chaste and elegant. On the ceiling of the choir
(p.8)
is a splendid composition representing the establishment and
propagation of Christianity since the death of our Saviour. This Church was commenced in 1764 by Constant
d'lvoy, but was not finished until the reign of Louis Philippe. The whole cost of construction amounted to
more than two and a half millions of dollars.
It stands on an elevated platform 328 feet in length by 138 feet in
width.
After leaving this noble structure, we wandered into the garden of
the Tuilieries, and it being very pleasant there beneath those immense shade
trees, we spent several hours among them in agreeable conversation and in
watching the crowd, &c. After
dinner, I called at the Hotel du Louvre to see Messrs. Anderson and Austin, who
arrived from London several days ago. We
strolled up to the Champs Elysees to see the crowd and saw to our hearts
content. From the immense number of
people we encountered at every step, one would suppose that the whole of Paris
was out of doors, which I presume was pretty nearly the truth as the French are
very fond of a promenade on Sunday afternoon.
Many of them go into the country to Versailles, St. Cloud and to many
other delightful resorts to pass the day. They make it a day of recreation if
not of absolute rest.
(p.9)
Monday, August 4th, 1856
It has been so hot today that I have done or seen but little of
interest. This morning I went to the Hôtel
Dieu and visited the wards with Jobert, one of the chief surgeons of this
hospital. There was quite a large number
of students in attendance and among them one female, who, I understand, has
been attending the Hospitals for several years.
She does not look unusually intelligent though she may make a good
physician in the course of time. I could
not help thinking, however, that she was entirely out of her sphere.
In going to the Hospital we passed by the Morgue, a house where
all dead bodies found in the river or elsewhere are exposed in order that their
friends may recognize them. We saw three
bodies there this morning. There are
usually more or less to be seen every day.
I mailed a letter to Ma today which is only the third letter I
have written since I sailed from New York.
I said but little of Paris in it.
I dined at a Restaurant today and saw a good many ladies there, some of
whom were English. It looks strange to
see ladies in such places, though it is very common here for them to frequent
the Restaurants and Cafés, accompanied of course by gentlemen. I get a very good dinner for about two
francs, though I am not always certain what I am eating.
(p.10)
Paris, Tuesday, August 5th, 1856
After visiting the Hospital this morning, I went into the Notre
Dame Cathedral which is almost adjoining the Hôtel Dieu. This edifice is one of
the best specimens of the 11th and 12th centuries. It is a regular cruciform church having an
octagonal eastern end. At the western
end are two lofty towers, intended to support spires. The length of this noted edifice is about 400
feet, width of transepts about 150 feet and height of vaulting 100 feet. The exterior is very fine, but I did not like
the interior near as well as the Madeleine.
It was recently painted in various fanciful colors which gives it much
the appearance of an Egyptian Alhambra, and I think it is totally devoid of
taste. It was fitted up in this manner for the baptism of the Imperial infant,
which took place these several months since.
There were some very large and old paintings in the transepts but it was
too dark to see them well.
After dinner, I strolled along the Boulevards and saw great
quantities of people riding, promenading and sitting before the cafés. Near the Madeleine I saw the flower market
which surpassed anything of the kind I ever saw. It is held there twice a week. A most beautiful boquet [sic] might be bought
here for two or three francs. Dr. Tanney
called to see me this morning. He leaves in a few days for New Orleans.
(p.11)
Wednesday, August 6th, 1856
Attended the Clinique de la faculté de Medicine this morning,
visited the wards with Nelaton and heard him lecture. I find that I understand a little more every
day. After his lecture, I went to the
Ecôle de Medicine and heard a lecture on the reflexion of heat &c. After breakfast I went with Dr. Hughes to the
Louvre and visited the galleries of ancient statuary, and also the galleries of
painting which I did not see the other day.
These galleries are among the most extensive in the world. What is called the long gallery is 1332 ft.
in length and 42 ft. wide and contains in all 1408 paintings, all of which are
by eminent artists now dead of the Italian, French, Flemish and German
schools. I noticed many fine productions
of Rubens. In the Salon Cassé which immediately precedes the long gallery,
among many other choice specimens is the Conception by Murillo which was bought
in 1852 from the sale of Marshall Soult's gallery for the enormous sum of
615,300 frs. or more than 120,000 dollars.
It is certainly a fine production, but there are others that pleased me
better. The frescoe paintings in the
various salons are most beautiful and add very much to the many attractions of
these delightful resorts. Dr. Waring of
S.C. called to see me today. I was
much pleased with him.
(p.12)
Paris, August 7th, Thursday
Went this morning to Hôtel Dieu, visited the wards as usual, saw a
case of variola and heard Trousseau lecture.
He exhibited the thorax of a patient who died yesterday from
Pericarditis. A few days ago the
operation of paracentisis thoracis was performed to let the water out of the
pericardial sac, but no fluid escaped.
After death it was found that the trocar had merely entered the pleural
cavity without touching the pericardium, which was found to be much distended
with fluid. This shows that sometimes
even the best of Surgeons sometimes fail in their operations.
Mr. Palmer and Dr. Sauvé called to see me today. I was introduced to Dr. Gray by Dr.
Tanney this afternoon.
As I wish to see all of the sights of Paris, I went tonight with
Dr. S. to the Circe Imperiatrice in the Champs Elysees, where I saw some extraordinary
gymnastic feet [sic] &c. We
afterwards stopped at a Café Charutente in the C.E. where coffee or liquers are
sold and at the same time while drinking them there are some eight or ten
singers who entertain the company, with comic and sentimental songs. Among them were several very pretty females.
Thus ends this day. I weighed today 199 lbs.
(p.13)
Friday, August 8th, 1856
I went this morning to the Hôpital de la Charité and saw Nelpeau,
who is considered one of the greatest surgeons of France, if not the
greatest. He is rather fine looking, of
medium stature, with great hair, and is apparently about fifty-five or sixty
years of age. He lectures after going
through the wards, but I could not understand what he was talking about. He does not speak as distinctly as some of the
other Professors.
I finished a letter to Willis today and also wrote to Dr. Chaillé. It rained this morning and the atmosphere has
been much cooler since.
Tonight I went with Dr. S. to the Concert Musard on the
Boulevards. The music was entirely
instrumental, violins being decidedly in the predominance. The music was very fine. One fellow played a solo on a new instrument
which I believe they call the Roi-Harmonium.
He played a tune by striking it with two padded [sic, i.e. padded]
sticks like he was playing a drum.
On our return we passed through the Place Vendôme, an open square
in the centre of which is the Colonne Vendôme erected by Napoleon to commemorate
the success of his arms in Germany in 1805.
Its total elevation is one hundred and thirty-five feet and its diameter
is twelve feet. It is built of stone
covered with bronze bas reliefs cast out of twelve hundred pieces of Austrian and
Russian cannon and representing the victories of the French Army.
(p.14)
Paris, Saturday, Aug. 9, 1856
I went to the Hôtel Dieu this morning and heard Trousseau's
farewell lecture for the season. He
articulates very distinctly and is said to be the best lecturer in the Faculty,
that is as regards beautiful language and eloquent enunciation. Wrote to Sims today and afterwards went to
arrange my money matters, and chose Greene and Co. for my bankers.
This afternoon I rode out with Drs. Tanny and Sauvé to Bois de
Boulogne, which is a beautiful wood about a mile from the Arc Triomphe
d'Etoile, which is near the limits of the city.
The trees here are small but very thick resembling some of our thickets
of oak. Near the center is an extensive
garden called Pre Catalan, which contains beautiful promenades with rich
flowers on the borders and beautiful plots of grass. They have music and dancing here every
evening.
Sunday, Aug. 10th, 1856
I started out to church this morning but heard that the mail for
the steamer would close today so I returned to my room and wrote to
Gabriel. The weather today has been very
warm and there seems to be very little prospects of its moderating soon.
(p.15)
Paris, Monday Aug. 11, 1856
Slept too late this morning to go to the Hospitals, and it was so
hot all day that I scarcely stirred out of my room after breakfast until
dinner-time. Dined at Ligier's table d'hôte
where a great many American Medical Students are to be found. Was introduced to
Dr. Rice of Memphis and Dr. Sondley[?] of S.C.
Received a letter from Sister today which is the first received
from her since my arrival in Paris. It
contained the melancholy tidings of the death of Col. Trotte and little Rob
Jamison of S.C.
Tonight I went with several friends of Dr. Taney to the depot to
see the latter off. He has spent about
eighteen months in Paris prosecuting his studies and now returns to New Orleans
to practice his profession. I was very
much pleased with what I saw of him and regretted to see him leave so soon. Sent letters to Dr. Chaillé and Sims by
him. In going to the depot we passed
through Place de la Concorde and had a fine view of the Champs Elysees, Rue
Rivoli &c. The carriages are all
obliged to have lights and as they pass up and down the Champs Elysees, they
resemble the glittering of diamonds, as they are seen in the distance moving by
hundreds.
(p.16)
Paris, Tuesday, Aug. 12th,1856
Another hot day and consequently but little done in the way of
improvement. I went this morning to make
some inquiries about a French teacher, and afterwards called to see Dr. Waring.
I met there Mr. Hague, Mr. Martin and Drs. Robinson and Bayley all of South
Caro1ina.
I dined at Meunires[?] with Bob Resey[?] of Ga. who just arrived
last night, and purposes spending a year or more in Paris to prosecute his
Medical Studies.
Tonight we went to the jardin Mabile which is a beautiful garden
very brilliantly illuminated. They had very fine music and those who felt
disposed tipped "on the light fantastic toe". There were some hired dancers, who performed
with a great deal of agility. The French
are certainly great dancers and seem to be as fond of it as ducks are of water.
They dance the Quadrilles especially with a great deal of spirit and energy,
reminding me more of a negro frolic than of one of our modern quadrilles.
Aug. 13th, Wednesday
Attended Hospital this morning and afterwards read some French &c. After dinner, I stopped at the Hétel du
Louvre and saw several ship acquaintances. Hot as usual today. 36° Centigrade at least.
(p.17)
Paris, Thursday, Aug. 14th, 1856
Attended Ricord's Hospital this morning and heard him
lecture. After breakfast, I got a New
Orleans Picayune not more than three weeks old and spent nearly the whole
morning in devouring its contents. I
engaged a French teacher today, who is to give me a lesson three times a week
for thirty-five francs a month. His name
is M. Jean and he appears to be very intelligent. He is engaged at present in writing a history
of the United States in French. In two
months, I hope to be able to understand almost everything said in French. Tomorrow is to be a gala day being the Fete
day of Saint Napoleon. I expect
to see a far more splendid and brilliant sight than I ever witnessed. But I will not anticipate.
After dinner, I walked with Dr. Gray to the Palais Royal and heard
the band play. There is music in this garden every evening for the benefit of
the public.
Friday, Aug. 15th
This day has certainly been an epoch in my existence, for I have
witnessed a spectacle unequalled in my experience. It is the anniversary of the birthday of
Napoleon 1st. I am too much fatigued to
attempt a description of the display tonight, but will endeavor to record the
events of the day tomorrow.
(p.18)
The Fête Napoleon of August 15th, 1856
The solemnity of the day was announced at an early hour by peals
of artillery at the Invalides. At twelve
o'clock high mas was performed in all of the churches. I went to Notre Dame about 10 ½ o’cl and by
paying a franc obtained a very good position in the gallery where I could see
all that was going on. The ceremonies
were very imposing, the pontifical robes very gorgeous and the music fine. The Domine Salvam and Te Deum were chanted. The deputations of the grand corps of State
and the Civil and Military authorities were present. The Emperor was not there. After leaving the
Cathedral I went with several friends to the Esplanade des Invalides and there
saw a great variety of amusements such as theatrical representations, circuses,
gynasts [i.e. gymnasts], climbing of greased poles sixty feet high &c. Saw several climb to the top and win
prizes. As the sun was very hot, we did
not remain here very long. At 6 1/2 o'cl
p.m. there was a concert in the garden of the Tuilieres composed of two hundred
instrumental performers and two hundred and fifty singers. The music was very fine and the crowd of
listeners very great. The musicians kept
such per-
(p.19)
fect time that one who did not know to the contrary would not have
suppose that there were not more than a dozen performers. Similar exhibitions to those at the Esplanade
were going on at the same time in the eastern portion of the city at the
Barriere du Trôue[?], but I did not see them.
But the grandest sight of all was the illuminations at night. All the public buildings in the city, the
Tuileries, Place de la Concorde and the Champs Elysees were most brilliantly
illuminated. It was the most dazzling
spectacle I ever witnessed. In the
Tuileries and Champs Elysees there were thousands of little lamps and lanterns
of various colors forming garlands, crowns, initials of the Emperor and huge
chandeliers suspended over the promenades, forming a spectacle which was never
equalled in my imagination for brilliancy and splendor. Words are totally inadequate to describe the
effect. At nine o'clock the fire works commenced at the triumphal arch, and
such a display of rockets and bombs bursting in the air and producing most
brilliant scintillations of every hue &c could not be surpassed even in the
imagination. The effect was overwhelming.
(p.20)
I thought I had seen some pretty large crowds but the concourse of
human beings assembled on this occasion was innumerable. As far as the eye could reach in every
direction was one mass of living flesh, men, women and children. It seemed as if all France was in Paris and
all Paris had congregated there. I can
now very well imagine how such a frightful calamity might take place as occured
[sic] at the Place de 1 Concorde in 1770 at the celebration in honor of the
marriage of Louis 16th when a panic was created among the multitude by
carriages driving amongst them and twelve hundred human beings were trampled to
death and about two thousand others seriously injured. On this occasion however no carriages were
allowed in any of the streets near the Tuileries or Champs Elysees. The French are certainly the greatest people
in the world for getting up exhibitions of this kind and they know how to
appreciate them. There was also a baloon [sic, i.e. balloon] ascension in the
afternoon, but I did not see it, being at dinner about that time. It is no unusual sight here, however, as we
see them almost every week.
(p.21)
August 16th, 1856
Wrote to Bee today, also to Sister, giving some account of the
great Fête of yesterday. At dinner I met
Drs. Lipscomb of S.C. and Godfrey of Ga.
The former has been here about a year, but has been down in the country
for a few months trying to learn French.
Dr. Godfrey has been here only about two months.
August 17th, 1856
Today I went with Dr. Miller of R.I. to visit the Palace at
Versailles and to witness the grand waters playing. We went by railroad in about forty minutes,
so I suppose the distance was about ten miles.
This immense Palace was converted into a grand national Museum by Louis
Philippe and contains one of the largest collections of paintings in the
world. The extent of the various halls
together must be several miles. As it
was after three o'clock when we arrived, we only had time to pass hurriedly
through a portion of the immense galleries.
The paintings are mostly historical, representing the most important
battles in which the French nation has been engaged. There are also many fine statues and
portraits of the various kings of France &c. I intend to go
(p.22)
out early some day and remain all day so as to have time to visit
the whole collection and examine them more carefully. We saw the Chapel which is very tastefully
decorated and its ceiling is ornamented with beautiful frescoe paintings. The
grounds of the palace are very extensive and are most beautifully laid
out. They are adorned with a great
quantity of fountains, vases, and very large shade trees and also shrubbery.
One of the most picturesque spots is the cascade of Apollo, where immense rocks
are placed in a rustic style with the water falling over them from a
considerable height, and immediately in front of the falls is a group of
statues representing Apollo and the nymphs &c.
The grand fountains commenced playing at five o'clock and
continued about half an hour. The
"grand eaux" do not play more than once every month or two as the
expense to pump up the water is very great, being eight or ten thousand francs
for each display. The crowd of people
who flock to see them is immense. It was
a grand sight to see so [many
omitted] jets (at least an hundred) spouting up to a considerable height all at
once. We returned to the city and dined
about 8 o'cl.
(p.23)
Paris, Aug. 18th 1856
It has rained nearly all day, so that I have merely been out to
meals. I recited my first french [sic]lesson
to Monsieur Jean today. He is to give me
a lesson every other day for the present at the rate of thirty francs a
month. He seems to be a very intelligent
man and I hope to advance very rapidly with my french. He says that he is engaged at present in
writing a history of the United States in French.
August 19th, 1856
Another wet and disagreeable day, tho’ much cooler than a few days
ago. I studied my french nearly all
morning. At about three o'clock I went
with several friends to the Palace of Luxembourg. We first passed through several halls
decorated with paintings and then were shown into the Hall of the throne which
is very gorgeously decorated with gilt and paintings and the ceiling contains
many beautiful frescos. The throne was
covered up so we did not see it. We were
next shown into the Senate Chamber. It
is about the size of ours at Washington, though differently arranged and much
more gorgeously decorated. We also were
shown into the Chapel and bedchamber of Marie de Medicis and the Salle de l’Empereur,
which were all very handsomely decorated with gildings, paintings &c.
(p.24)
The Chapel of the Palace was the next place we visited. It is small but beautifully fitted up. It contains several fine paintings, among
which are the marriage of the Virgin, St. Louis pardoning traitors, St. Louis
in Palestine and the Adoration of the Shepherds, the latter by Simon White, an
American artist.
We next visited the Gallery of Modern Art which contains a number
of fine paintings by living artists.
Among others which pleased me were Cain slaying Abel, Lady Macbeth
somnambulating and a most striking picture representing the last call of
victims for the guillotine in the Reign of Terror. This gallery is not near so extensive as that
of the Louvre or at Versailles, but nevertheless is well worthy of a visit.
The garden of Luxembourg which adjoins the Palace is quite a
pretty place, a portion of it containing fine plots of grass and flowers and
adorned with statuary and a fine fountain.
The outer portion contains fine large shade trees which afford a
pleasant retreat in summer. The
promenade is adorned with numerous statues of the most noted female characters
of France. A fine band of music performs
in this garden several afternoons in every week which adds very much to the
pleasure of the crowd who frequent it for recreation. Au revoir.
(p.25)
Paris. Wednesday, Aug. 20th, 1856
Today I visited the Museum of Dupuytsen at the "Ecole
Pratique". It contains a very fine
collection of pathological specimens &c. but is scarcely as large as I
expected to see. Also heard Pajol
lecture, but he spoke so fast that I could not understand him. I thought of taking his course, but have
concluded to postpone it until I can understand better.
I took my second French lesson today and was very well pleased
with my teacher.
Thursday, August 21st, 1856
Nothing of importance has transpired today to vary my somewhat
monotonous life. This morning I went
to Hôpital du Midi and heard Ricord lecture and got caught in the rain. I breakfasted about eleven o'cl. and returned
to my room and studied Medicine and French until nearly dinner time. Dined at about six o'cl. in the Palais Royal
where I get a very good dinner for two francs. Met Dr. Stoney of S.C. this evening. He has just returned from a tour through
Germany &c.
Tonight I have been pitching into French again with the
determination to master it as soon as possible, for a person in Paris without a
knowledge of the language is like a ship without its rudder.
(p.26)
63 rue de Seine, Paris
Friday, August 22nd, 1856
My life being at present somewhat monotonous, I find it difficult
to find anything of interest to write and I am afraid that ere long my
resolution of writing something every day will be broken on that account. Went to Hôtel Dieu this morning and visited
Trousseau's wards and afterwards heard Nonat lecture. Breakfasted at Ligier's
where a great many Americans take their meals.
Studied French and recited a lesson
at half-past two. I got hold of a New
Orleans Delta today which I devoured though it was a month old. I could see the papers every week however at
my bankers, but it is too far to go unless I have other business. This evening
I called to see Lipscomb who intends leaving for home in a few days on account
of his father's bad health. He has been
here about a year and expected to have remained a year or two longer.
I heard the other day of the Persia, one of the Cunard steamers,
making the trip to Liverpool from New York in an hour or two less than nine
days, which is a quickest trip on record. Au revoir.
(p.27)
Saturday, August 23rd,1858
While writing a letter to Andrew Wardlaw this morning, who should
pop into my rooms but Fred Saunderson. I
was much surprised to see him, though I was expecting to hear of his arrival in
Paris, but I did not think of his being able to find my room. He, with Mr. & Mrs. G. Ralston arrived
yesterday from London and are stopping at the Grand Hôtel du Louvre. They reached Liverpool about two weeks after
I did and made a tour through Scotland and England. In the evening, I went round to see Mrs.
Ralston who is the first American lady I have conversed with since my arrival
in Europe. It is very pleasant to meet
with friends thus when so far away from home.
I also met today Dr. Lassiter of Philadelphia who has just returned from
a tour of the Continent.
Sunday, August 24th, ‘56
This morning I attended church at the Weslyan [sic] Chapel, and
heard a very good sermon - about the Conversion of Paul. I met there Mr. & Mrs. Ralston and Fred
Saunderson. Met several more Natchez
people this morning, Wayne and John
Ogden and Mr. Cochran. The two former
have been studying in Edinburgh for two years or so. Also, met Henry Seabrook, a college mate, who
has been two years at the University of Edinburg. I wrote to Uncle Albert and to Sam Alston
tonight.
(p.28)
Monday, Aug. 25th, 1856
Another day is numbered among "the things that were",
and I have nothing of particular interest to record. Fred Saunderson came around this morning, and
accompanied me to Hôtel Dieu as he was anxious to visit a Hospital of Paris as
well as other objects. I also went
through Notre Dame with him, while the Morning Mass was being performed. I devoted the remainder of the morning to
French &c. Tonight I went with F.S.
to the Cirque de l’Imperatrice, that being the only place of amusement he could
enjoy here without a knowledge of the language, unless it was some of the
concerts. The performances were very
good and some of them extraordinary. We
were particularly struck with the performances of a little fellow, who was so
supple that he could almost bend his vertebral column. We saw him stand on his hands and put his
feet on the back of his head and afterwards clasp them under his chin. He could also stand up and strike his head
with the sole of his foot, and then bent backwards so as to make his head touch
his heels without bending his knees. He
is certainly a wonderful specimen of humanity. Such things are anatomically
interesting.
(p.29)
Paris, Tuesday, Aug. 26th, 1856
I thought of going to Versailles this morning and spending the
day, but I was too late for the 10 o'cl train and concluded not to go. F. Saunderson, Cochran, Seabrook &c. went
out and staid nearly all day and then only saw half of the Palace.
This evening I met Mr. Cressell and Bob Dunbar quite unexpectedly,
as I did not expect to see them for a week or two yet. They have been here several days, and expect
to remain here a month or so, then make a tour through England and Scotland and
sail for New York about the middle of October.
They have made a rapid tour thro' Germany, but did not go to Italy on
account of the heat.
Tonight I called at the Hotel du Louvre to see Miss Zacharie, who
arrived several days since, but she was not in, so I will have to try it again
and hope to be more fortunate.
Wednesday, Aug. 27th, 1856
Attended the Hospital as usual this morning and devoted the
remainder of the morning to French. Received
a letter from Gabriel this morning dated N.O. July 31st which of course I was
very glad to receive, especially as it has been more than two weeks since I had
heard from home. This evening I called
to see Cousin Virginia Currell but she was out riding. Afterwards went with Fred S. to the Concert
Musard.
(p.30)
Paris, Aug. 28th, 1856
I went to l’Hôpital de la Charité this morning and saw Velpeau[?
or Velpean] amputate the femur of a patient, suffering with a malignant tumour
of the knee joint. The operation was
very nicely performed. Velpean is said to be eighty years of age, though he
looks as if he might not be more than fifty-five or sixty. He is very erect and all his faculties
remain perfect, so far as I am able to observe.
I dined today with Cousin Virginia Curell [possibly Carell], Mr. Curell
and R. Dunbar, and afterwards went with them out to Pré Catelan in the Bois de
Boulougne, it being a Fête night. The
garden was beautifully illuminated with lanterns of various colors hung in the
trees and suspended like chandeliers over the extensive promenades &c. The scene was quite enchanting and
fairy-like. A fine band of music added
much to the pleasure of the scene. In
one portion of the garden is the theater of Nature where a Pantomime &c.
was performed. A beautiful artificial
hedge interspersed with flowers served as the curtain. When the performance was about to commence
this hedge sank into the ground. There
were other amusements in different parts of the gardens such as juglers [sic],
ventriloquists, Marrionettes &c. Mr.
Pontalba, son of the wealthy widow, went with us. We returned about 11 1/2 o’cl p.m.
(p.31)
Friday 29th, 1856
Nothing unusual has transpired today worthy of record. Bob Dunbar called to see me a little while
this morning and was hurried off by the advent of my French teacher. This evening I called at the Hotel du Louvre
and saw Dr. Lassiter &c. I was quite
surprised to find Fred Saunderson there as he expected to leave yesterday for
Switzerland, but changed his mind and has concluded to remain here until it
gets cooler and then go to Italy. We
walked up to the Champs Elysees and remained a little while drinking coffee at
one of the singing Cafés, where we heard tolerable singing &c. We then returned home and here I am. I received a letter from Sister today, just a
month old. All well, I am glad to say.
Saturday, Aug. 30th
Attended Hotel Dieu this morning and saw Jobert perform an
operation and apply the red-hot iron.
Bob Dunbar & Fred Saunderson came over about 12 o'cl. and Percy and
myself went with them through a portion
of the galleries of the Louvre, At six o’cl.
this afternoon we went to dine with them and Mr. Curell at the Swiss Cottage on
the island in the artificial lake in Bois de Boulogne and had a very pleasant
dinner. We afterwards went into the Pre
Catelan, remained a little while, heard the music &c. and then returned to
Paris - 12 o'cl.
(p.32)
Paris. Sunday 31st Aug. 1856
This morning I went to the Weslyan [sic] Chapel and heard a very
good plain sermon. Mr. Ralston came over
to see me afterwards and I returned with him to dinner at Hotel du Rhin where
they now have apartments. After dinner I
went with him and Mrs. Ralston to see the Madeleine. The evening vespers were over, and it was
almost too dark to see the Church to advantage.
On our return we met Miss Curell & Mrs Harris and daughter of New
Orleans and Bob Dunbar. I joined them
and walked through the Tuileries with them &c. I do not feel well tonight, but hope to be
all right tomorrow.
September 1st
The first day of Autumn is past and a very disagreeable one it has
been for it has been raining nearly all day. The temperature however is very
pleasant.
I wrote to Gabriel this morning, though I had but little of interest
to communicate. Tonight I went with Sauné
and Boisblanc to the Theatre, la Gaieté, and saw the wandering Jew played. This
theatre is a small one and by no means equal to many in America. The acting was pretty good and there were
several very fine tableaux, but the play itself was rather tedious & pointless.
(p.33)
Paris, Wed. Sept 3rd, 1856
I forgot to write a line yesterday, but nothing transpired worthy
of note.
Attended the Hospital as usual this morning. This afternoon I called upon our Minister
Mr. Mason [John Y. Mason] and presented a letter from Genl. Quitman. [John A.
Quitman] The old gentleman received me
very kindly and invited me to call again, and make the acquaintance of his
family which I willingly promised to do.
Mr. Mason is a plain-looking gentleman apparently about sixty years of
age. He has but little use of one hand
& arm, the result of a paralytic stroke a year or two since. On my return I stopped to see Mr. Edward
Palmer who is similarly affected.
After dinner I called to see the Curells at Hotel de Londres. While there, Mr. & Mrs. Ralston and F.
Sanderson came in. After sitting a
while, I went with F.S. to a little theatre in the Champs Elysees called the
Bouffes. We heard several very pretty
little operettas etc. Bob Dunbar was not
at home.
Curell and Sanderson returned from Bordeaux last night. They went down several days ago to see the
vineyards and to buy some wine. They say
that they were very much pleased with their trip though it was a long ride,
over three hundred miles. It took them
all day to go so that portion was rather tedious.
(p.34)
Tomb of Napoleon etc.
Thursday, September 4th, 1856
Today I have been sight-seeing.
At 12 o'cl I went with Sauvé to the Hotel des Invalides to see the Tomb
of Napoleon &c. This Hotel is an
immense establishment for the reception of disabled and superannuated soldiers. The Dome of this superbe [sic] edifice, in
which the tomb is to be seen, is one of the most beautiful pieces of
architecture I ever beheld. The remains or at least the tomb of Napoleon is at
present in a small chapel handsomely decorated, and may be seen through an iron
gate. A fine sarcophagus (a monolith of
porphyry), in the centre of the Dome, is ready to receive his remains, but I am
unable to say when the ceremony will be performed. This elegant sarcophagus was brought from
Lake Onega in Finland at a cost of 140,000 francs. It was polished by means of a powerful steam
engine. The high Altar in the Dome is the most elegant I ever saw. Twelve steps
of white marble lead up to it; the altar table is of black marble, surmounted
by four large spiral columns of the same material, supporting a canopy all
profusely gilt &c. There are other
objects of interest here but I must refer to the guide book for descriptions
of. We also visited the Chapel of the Hôtel
which contains numerous flags taken in Napoleon's campaigns. Service is
performed here every Sunday, when there is also splendid music. We went also into the dining room of the
officers and into the kitchen which were all kept in very neat order &c.
(p.35)
The grounds around the Hotel are very handsomely laid out &c so
that this is one of the prettiest places in Paris.
After leaving the Hotel des Invalides, we visited the Pantheon
which is considered by many the handsomest Cathedral in Paris. It is built in cruciform shape with a very
high dome. It is larger than the
Madeleine but not so large as Notre Dame.
The interior is very highly finished and contains some large and very
handsome paintings &c. Beneath the
church are vaults containing the tombs of many distinguished men of
France. We saw those of Voltaire and
Rousseau &c. Marat and Mirabeau were also interred here, but their remains
were depantheonized by order of the National Government.
We also went into the St. Etienne du Mont which is near the
Pantheon. It is a very pretty church and
contains some fine paintings &c.
We next visited the Hotel de Cluny which is an antiquarian
Museum. It is one of the finest remains
of the ancient mansions of Paris of the sixteenth century. It has been the abode of several eminent
persons among whom was Mary the widow of Louis XII and sister of Henry VIII of
England. She resided here immediately
after the death of her husband. The
museum which now occupies this edifice contains many curiosities, such as
(p.36)
old furniture, tapestries, porcelain ware, armors, swords etc.
which were the property of the early kings of France &c. Adjoining Hotel de Cluny are the ruins of the
Palais des Thermes, once the residence of the Romans. It was here that Julian resided after being
proclaimed emperor by his troops in 360 A.D.
It is supposed to have been built by Constantius. Nothing now remains of this Palace but the
cellars which are said to have been bath rooms &c. Numerous heads of sculpture are also seen
which are said to have been dug up in different parts of Paris while making
excavations &c. Cross brought from
Sebastopol.
In all these places we visited, we saw numbers of Englishmen and
ladies who seem to be very numerous in Paris at present.
I returned to my room about four o'clock completely used up. I dined between six and seven at a restaurant
in the Palais Royal where I normally take my dinner. Tonight I have studied my french with considerable
zest.
September 5th, Friday
Nothing of interest has transpired today. Percy and I called to see Miss Ralston this
evening but she was out riding. I called
to see Dr. Gray tonight and found him quite sick with fever. The weather for a few days past has been
delightful, being cool and clear, but it is too pleasant to last long.
(p.37)
Paris, September 6th,1856
I received a pleasant letter from Sister this morning, dated Aug. 11th. It is very pleasant to receive such letters
though they are so long in reaching me.
She had just heard of my safe arrival in Liverpool. A few days ago I heard of a terrible storm
which occured in the vicinity of New Orleans on the 12th of August. More than two hundred lives were lost at Last
Island, in consequence of it. A terrible
calamity! The ship Nautilus was wrecked
there. [A powerful hurricane destroyed
most of Last Island, where there was a popular resort.]
It has been raining again today but has cleared off very prettily
tonight. I called to see Dr. Waring this
morning and afterwards wrote my French exercise &c. This is the last of another week which has
passed off very rapidly. I saw Mr.
Ralston this evening. He speaks of
leaving in a week or so for Lyons and from there to Italy.
September 7th
I went to Hotel Dieu this morning and got Dr. Baylass[?] to go
with [me – omitted] to see Dr. Gray,
who is still quite sick. He thinks that
it is a slight case of Typhoid Fever.
How sad it is to see one sick so far away from home and friends. I called to see Mrs Ralston tonight and spent
an hour very pleasantly. Another day is
ended.
(p.38)
Paris, Monday Sept. 8th, 1856
This morning I took Mr. Leeds and friend of New York to visit
Hotel Dieu, as they were desirous of seeing a Paris Hospital. They were college mates at Yale of Bob
Dunbar. After breakfast I studied French
awhile and then Bob Dunbar and Fred Sanderson came to see me. I went with them to dine with Mr. and Mrs.
Curell and Mr. and Mrs. Ralston at the Swiss Cottage in Bois de Boulogne and
spent the time very pleasantly. We
returned to the city about eight o'clock and all went to the Circe
Impeatrice. They were all very much
pleased with the novelty of the performances.
We afterwards went to Chateau des Fleurs which is a beautiful garden
brilliantly illuminated. Musical and
Dancing Soirees all held there very other night. The ladies were very much pleased with the
beauty of the place, but did not remain long, as it was late and they mere[ly – omitted] wished to see the garden.
This has been a beautiful day, though rather cool. It is after twelve o’clock and time I was in
bed, as I must rise early in the morning and go to the Hospital. "Strange state of being, for tis still
to be Senseless to feel, and with seal’d eyes to see." Byron
(p.39)
Paris, Tuesday September 9, 1856
F. Sanderson and R. Dunbar came over and went to the Hospital with
me this morning but their curiosity was soon satisfied so they did not remain
very long. After breakfast, I went up to
my bankers Green & Co. to read the papers.
The details of the calamity at Last Island &c were truly
distressing. I was glad to learn however
that none of my acquaintances were among the lost.
The political news was by no means of a pleasant nature. The
fanaticism of the abolistionists [sic] has placed the Union in great
jeopardy. It seems impossible for the
North and South to remain united much longer unless something providential
supervenes to allay the threatening storm.
The news from Kansas was truly revolting. A civil war is being carried on there by the
rascally abolishionists on one hand with Lane at their head, and the Friends of
the Constitution on the other. I should
like to see every "Nigger worshipper" in the country swung up to the
first tree in reach.
R.D. and F.S. dined with Percy and myself today and we afterwards
went with them to jardin Mabille as they wished to make the most of their time
while here. So endeth another day.
(p.40)
Paris, September 10th, 1856
The morning past off without anything occuring worthy of
record. Percy, Sauvé and I dined at the
Café de Paris with Fred Sanderson in company with Mr. and Mrs. Ralston, Mr. and
Mrs. Curell and Rob Dunbar. The dinner
was very good but nothing extra considering the bill Fred S. had to pay. The courses consisted of Soup, Fish, Cutlets
of Mutton, partridges, artichokes, Omlette souflé and a small supply of fruit
consisting of four peaches, about a dozen figs, a few prunes and several
bunches of grapes. There were also five
bottles of Claret and two of Champagne.
For this moderate allowance he paid the enormous bill of one hundred and
seventy-four francs - a perfect swindle.
I omitted to mention coffee which was included. The birds alone, not
more than ten in all, cost fifty francs.
After dinner we all except Sauvé went to the Theatre Lyrique and
heard the pretty opera "Si j’etais le roi" in which Madame Colson
(the Prima Donna of the New Orleans Opera last winter) played the principal
female part. She has a sweet and at the
same time a strong voice. The airs of
this Opera are very sweet though of a plaintive character. Madame Colson was sustained by an excellent
troupe and it all passed of [sic] very well.
Au revoir.
(p.41)
Thursday, September 11th, '56
The morning passed away without anything occuring worthy of
mention. I received the American Journal
of Medical Science, which was only two months old.
This evening Mssrs. Curell, Ralston, Dunbar, Sanderson, Percy and
I went to the "Closerie des Lilas" which is quite a pretty garden for
music and dancing near the west end of
the Luxembourg. This garden is open
three times a week and is much frequented by those who are fond
of exercising on the "light fantastic toe".
Fred Sanderson leaves tomorrow for Geneva and Italy. He expects to make the tour in about six
weeks and then return here on his way home.
He has engaged his passage to sail on the Adriatic, the 29th of
October. Mr. and Mrs. Ralston will take
it a little more leisurely and have bought a carriage to travel in to
Italy. They will start from some point
between here and Lyons and go across the country.
Saturday, Sept. 13th
I did not make any record last night as I went to stay with Dr.
Gray who is still quite ill with Typhoid Fever.
I wrote to Douglas Walworth this morning. Tonight I went with Sauvé, Percy and R.
Dunbar to the Theatre Francais and saw Moliere's comedy Femmes Savantes very
well performed. Acting excellent.
(p.42)
Sunday, September 14th, 1856
This morning I went to the Weslyan Chapel and heard a very
good sermon from the young minister who is quite talented. The service here is very similar to that of
the Episcopal church, the prayers being written &c. I saw Mr. and Mrs. Ralston there. The
congregation was quite large and composed of English and Americans.
I afterwards went to see Rob Dunbar &c at the Hotel des
Capucines and took a drive with him and Mr. Curell out to the Bois de Boulogne
and saw the rocks which are being erected for the cataract. It looks very natural and will doubtless be
very picturesque when finished. We saw
any quantity of pleasure carriages and also quite a number of persons on foot
who had gone out for recreation &c.
Cousin Virginia was quite unwell today and could not go out driving.
Monday, Sept. 15th
I finished a letter to Sister this morning and studied french. Tonight I went with Dabney Taliafero [sic, perhaps should be Taliaferro] and Tooke
to call on Judge Mason and family. I saw
his wife and two of his daughters. Two
others are in the country. I was very
much pleased with them
(p.43)
all and am very glad that I have made their
acquaintance. Mr. Mason was very
entertaining and agreeable. Mrs. Mason appears much younger than him and is a
very agreeable lady. They invited us all
to dine with them next Sunday and we gladly accepted the invitation.
On my way home, I called in to bid Mr. and Mrs. Ralston goodbye as
they expect to start tomorrow for Switzerland and Italy. I found Mr. Wilcox of Philadelphia
there. He arrived in Paris a day or two
since and is going on to Lyons to buy his usual supply of goods but expects to
return to Paris in about three weeks.
Sept. 17th, Wednesday
I omitted writing a line last night but nothing transpired
yesterday worthy of record.
I spent this morning as usual in attending the Hospital and
studying French. This evening I called
at the Hotel du Louvre and saw Miss Harriott Zacharie of N.O. and her
father. They returned a few days since
from a tour through Switzerland &c. and expect to remain here a week or ten
days longer before going to London on their way homeward. It is very pleasant to meet acquaintances
from home in this distant land and talk of bygone days etc. etc. etc.
(p.44)
Paris, Sept. 18th 1856
I went over to Green & Co.'s this morning to draw some money
and read the American papers. I was glad
to see that the House of Rep.'s had passed the Army bill at last without the
obnoxious proviso.
I called at the Hotel des Capucines and saw Cousin Virginia. R. Dunbar came and dined with me and we
afterwards went to the Theatre Francaise and saw two of Moliere's comedies, “Le
Tartuff” and “Le Malade Imaginaire” very well acted. A Spanish Prince was there in the Emperor's
box with several others of the Nobility. This has been a disagreeable rainy
day, but now it is numbered among the things that were.
Friday, Sept. 19th
Attended la Charité this morning and saw a number of interesting
cases. There seems to be considerable
Typhoid fever in the Hospitals now. I
went to see Gray twice today. Poor
fellow, he is having a hard time of it.
I hope however that he is better now and that he will soon be
convalescent. I finished my first month
of French today and am very well satisfied with my progress, but am far from
being a Frenchman yet.
(p.45)
Fontainebleau
Paris, Saturday, Sept. 20th 1856
This morning I went down to visit Fontainebleau with R. Dunbar and
Sauvé. We left Paris at 9 o'cl and
arrived there in about an hour and a half, the distance of thirty-nine
miles. The weather was quite cold and
rainy, so that we did not enjoy it as much as we should have done if the
weather had been pleasant. Fontainebleau
is quite an extensive town with about nine thousand inhabitants. We first visited the Chateau, and went all
through the State appartments [sic]. The
exterior of this Palace is by no means prepossessing in appearance, but the
interior is very gorgeously fitted up.
Many of the appartments have their walls decorated with beautiful
Gobelin's tapestry, which resemble beautiful paintings at a little
distance. Among other things here, we
saw Napoleon's bed and the little table on which he signed his abdication &c. The gardens of the palace are very pretty,
but not equal to those at Versailles.
After seeing the Palace and walking through the gardens and seeing the
fish in the pond &c., we took a voiture and drove thru a portion of the
forest which contains thirty-five thousand acres. We visited the “weeping rocks,” the hermitage
of Franchand and several other places that are usually shown to strangers. There is a large oak tree called the Bouquet
du roi.
(p.46)
We dined at the Hotel de Londres and started back to Paris about
seven o'clock. We met in the cars Mr.
and [Mrs – omitted] Sheffield and two
pleasant daughters of New Haven. Rob D.
had seen them while in College. We found
them very agreeable, and they added much to the pleasure of our trip. Mr. S. and his two daughters were on board
the John Jay which was burnt a few weeks ago on Lake George and made a very
narrow escape with their lives. They are
going to spend the winter in Germany at Dresden, so that the young ladies may
acquire the German language. I received
a letter from Sister tonight.
Sunday, Sept. 21st, 1856
I overslept myself this morning and consequently did not get up in
time to go to Church.
I dined today by invitation at Judge Mason's and had a very
pleasant evening. I saw the other two
daughters, who were absent in the country when I called last. They are all very
agreeable young ladies, though none of them are very pretty. I met there Mr. Wise, Secretary of Legation
and Mr. Veazy, U.S. Consul at Havre.
Taliafero and Tooke went up with me.
It was half past eight o'cl when we got up from the dinner table.
(p.47)
Tuesday, Sept. 23, 1856
I was so busy reading Moliere last night that I quite forgot to
write a line but nothing occured yesterday worthy of note. I went over this morning to see the Curells
and bid them good-bye as they leave tomorrow for London. Bob Dunbar went with me to the Theatre
Francais but he did not enjoy the play much, as he could not understand
it. The principal play was termed
"Une Chaine" by Scribe. It was
very well acted, but they spoke almost too fast for me to understand them well.
Sept. 24th 1856
This has been a very disagreeable day, cold and raining. I have been studying French nearly all
day. I am quite interested at present in
Moliere's comedy L'avase. When I have
finished reading it, I will go to the theatre and see it acted. I am too sleepy even to finish this
page. Au revoir.
Sept. 25th 1856
This morning was bright and clear and very pleasant, but this
evening it threatened to rain again.
Fickle climate this. I called to see Miss H. Zacharie this evening but
she was out, just my luck.
(p.48)
Saturday, September 27, 1856
Just two months have elapsed since I arrived in this great city
tho' it seems much longer to me. The
days pass rapidly enough, but in taking a retrospective view it seems that I
have been here a year. Not that I have
accomplished so much, but so many things have transpired and I have seen so
much that was new to me &c. I cannot
say that I have learnt a great deal of medicine, but have made considerable
progress in French.
This has been a rainy cold and very disagreeable day, and since
twelve o'clock I have only been out of my room to get my dinner.
I went to the Hôpital de la Charité this morning and spent two
hours visiting the wards. I saw one case
of small pox, which was in a large ward with nearly an hundred other patients,
but none of them have contracted it, which proves the efficacy of vaccination
beyond cavil. The wards at this Hospital
are kept in excellent order and the floors are waxed &c. After breakfast I called to see Dr. Gray and
was gratified to find him much better and in a fair way to recover. Dabney came to see me tonight and sit a
couple of hours &c.
(p.49)
Paris, September 28th 1856
Another rainy disagreeable day has passed away.
This morning I went to a French Protestant Church but did not
understand much of the sermon, as I had a seat too far from the pulpit to hear
very well. The congregation was a very
large one, but seemed to be composed chiefly of the lower classes.
Tonight I called at the Hotel du Louvre to see Miss Zacharie and
spent a couple of hours very pleasantly.
They leave on Tuesday for London and will sail on the Arabia on the 11th
of next month for Boston. I almost wish
that I was going with them, but duty drives such notions away as fast as they
arise. So mote [sic] it be.
Monday, 29th 7bre 1856
Attended the Hospital as usual this morning and afterwards studied
french. Also dispatched a letter to Sister.
Tonight I went with Sauvé, Percy, Boisblanc and Dabney to the Imperial Opera
and heard The Prophet. Roger as Jean
sang beautifully, also the woman who acted as Fidis his mother. The scenery was grand and the skating scene
admirable. The last scene with the
conflagration was magnificent.
(p.50)
Paris, Tuesday. Sept. 30th,1856
The last day of another month has just passed away. How time flies. Nothing unusual occured this morning in my
daily routine. I called to see Dr. Gray
and was glad to find him sitting up in a convalescent state. The Sister of Charity who has been so kindly
nursing him, took her leave this morning, her services being no longer required.
Tonight I went with Dabney & Tooke to call at Judge Mason's
and spent a pleasant evening. The Judge
had just returned from London, where he spent about a week. He expressed himself as highly pleased with
that great Metropolis and the people whom he met. Several ladies and a gentleman, all
Americans, came in while we were there, but I do not recollect their
names. It is twelve o'clock; bedtime.
October 1st, 1856
The first day of a new month has passed and gone. Nothing particular has transpired to cause me
to remember it.
The Emperor was to return to Paris tonight from the country.
I forgot to mention the other night that I saw Gen'1. Pelissier,
Duke of Malakoff at the Opera. He is
rather fine looking with white hair and black moustache. [the word moustache
is written at the bottom of p. 51]
(p.51)
Paris, October 4th, 1856
I have not written for several days for want of a theme.
"Pleasant weather neither too warm nor too cold, neither too wet nor to
[sic] dry" etc. etc.
I received a nice letter from Mary G. with a postscript from
Sister this morning. I was gratified to
hear of G.'s successful debut at political speech making in Natchez.
Tonight I have written quite a long letter to Ma, giving
descriptions of sights &c. "To bed to bed says sleepy head" etc.
Sunday, October 5th
This has been the most lovely day that I have yet seen in France. It was perfectly charming. I went this morning to the Weslyan Chapel,
but it was so crowded that I could not get a seat. I also went to the Madeleine and saw a
funeral ceremony with all the forms of Catholicism.
Tonight I went to see Dr. Dunton who has just returned from a two
months tour through Germany and Switzerland.
He and Dr. Gaudet went together and went on foot for the greater part of
the way.
(p.52)
Paris, Oct. 6th, 1856
This has been another charming day, but it is too pleasant to last
long. Spent two hours at the Hospital as
usual this morning and after I returned from breakfast, studied French until
dinner time. Tonight I went with Sauvé
and Boisblanc to the Theatre Francais and heard two of Moliere's best comedies
- Les Femmes Savantes and L'Avare. They
were admirably performed and as I had heard the former before and read the
latter, I understood them pretty well.
There were several persons in the Emperor's box, but I did not ascertain
who they were. C’est apres minuit.
Tuesday Oct. 7th
While writing to Gabriel this morning, Fred Sanderson popped
in. He returned yesterday from Italy
&c. He has been absent about a month
and went as far as Rome. He says he was
much pleased with the sights but was thoroughly disgusted with the people. Tonight we went to see the magician Hamilton,
successor to Robert Houdin. His tricks
were all good but his magic bottle was wonderful. Any quantity of all kinds of liquor flowed.
(p.53)
Review on Champs de Mars
Wednesday Oct. 8th, 1856
Something unusual has transpired today to vary the monotony of my
daily routine. I have seen the Emperor
and Empress and the baby Prince. There
was a grand review on Champ de Mars and I went with Sauvé, Boisblanc and Percy
to witness it. There were said to be
eighteen thousand solders on the field including infantry, cavalry and
artillery. It was a grand spectacle. The soldiers were arranged in long lines
across the field to be reviewed by the Emperor.
First came five or six of the Imperial Guard, then came the Emperor
about twenty yards behind, followed by the Cent Guard with their gorgeous
uniforms. The Emperor wore a simple
uniform, blue coat and red pants, cocked hat and a red scarf. He rode a beautiful dark chestnut horse. Next to him were his Marshals and the Prince
of Bavaria, who is on a visit to the Emperor.
Another Guard with cocked pistols preceded the Empress, who, with another
lady, the nurse and the Imperial Prince, rode in an open carriage drawn by four
horses, two postilions riding them and two footmen in livery behind, then
(p.54)
another guard. She passed
within twenty feet of where I was standing so that I saw her distinctly. She has a very sweet face and light hair, but
not what I should call beautiful. She
was very simply clad in white, with nothing gaudy about her. Louis Napoleon passed only within thirty or
forty yards so that I could not distinguish his features very well. He is fine looking, but not what I should
call handsome. His hair, moustache and
goatee are light or sandy colored. In
beholding him, who was the "observed of all observers", I was
forcibly reminded of the force of circumstances and the ceaselessness of
change. He, who a few short years ago,
was a mere nobody, today is the ruler of a mighty nation. What he may be in a few more years, no one
knows. After having reviewed them all in lines, he retired to the other side of
the field to see them perform the various evolutions. The review lasted about
three hours. The Imperial Baby Prince is
a fat-looking little fellow, apparently well grown for his age. The day was
cloudy but very pleasant for the parade.
[note: see Doc. 351 at this repository for a pictorial version of
a grand review of Napoleon III and his troops.]
(p.55)
Paris, October 9th, 1856
Attended Hotel Dieu as usual this morning and spent a couple of
hours. After breakfast I went with F.
Sanderson to the Jardin des Plantes, and saw a fine collection of animals:
Lions, Tigers, Hyenas, Bears, Monkeys, Camels, Giraffes, Hippopotami, an
Elephant, Deer, Goats, Sheep, Dogs and a large collection of birds including
Ostrichs, Eagles, Condors etc. etc. The
collection, however, is not as large as at the Zoological Gardens in London. We
also visited the Museum in the gardens, which contains quite a large variety of
anatomical specimens. We did not go into
the Geological or Mineralogical Museums, not into the Botanical Gardens. I will visit them when I go again, which I
expect to do quite often, as it is a pleasant walk and free to the public.
I afterwards wrote to Mary G. and inclosed it in a letter to
Gabriel. Tonight we went to the
Valentino, which is an elegant suite of rooms for Musical and dancing
Soirees. I met there Bull Pringle, who
says he has been in Paris about a month, though I had not met him before. Au revoir.
(p.56)
Gobelins
Paris. October 11th, 1856
Nothing occured yesterday worthy of record, so I did not
write.
This morning I went with F. Sanderson and Boisblanc to visit the
Manufacture of Gobelins Tapestry. We
stopped in the Pantheon for a few moments as they had never seen that gigantic
structure. The tapestry manufacture was
very interesting. After passing through
two or three rooms containing beautiful specimens of tapestry, copies of
paintings of Raphael and other celebrated artists, we were ushered into the
rooms where they were weaving others. It
is truly astonishing to see them make such perfect copies of the paintings,
which they have constantly in view just as a painter would, who was copying a
painting. It is all done by the hand and
consequently is very tedious work. The warp
made of flax is stretched in a perpendicular direction, and the artist after
marking out the outlines, proceeds to weave the picture, having at his side
quills filled with every shade of woolen thread with which he makes the warf
[sic, i.e. weft or woof]. Among other
things, they are now
(p.57)
copying portraits of some of the most noted artists to be placed
in the Louvre. We also saw them making
Brussels carpets, which seem to be even more tedious than the tapestry, for
every thread must be cut every time it is passed through the warp, so as to
make it thick like rugs. These carpets
are beautiful beyond description. The
workmen have patterns constantly before them with figures or flowers &c.
which they wish to represent. This is one of the most interesting places that I
have yet visited. Tonight I went with F.S. to a little Theatre on the
Boulevards called the Folies Nouvelles, and saw several little vaudevilles and
pantomines. I received a letter from
Gabriel this morning mailed the 15th of last month. All well.
Sunday, Oct. 12th
This has been a rainy, disagreeable day, though the temperature
was pleasant. I went this morning with
F. Sanderson to the Wesleyan Chapel and heard an excellent sermon. We met Mr. Wilcox there. We afterwards saw Taliafero who leaves
tomorrow for Berlin where he intends to spend the winter and study German &c.
Au revoir.
(p.58)
Paris, October 14th, 1856
Yesterday, I dined with F. Sanderson in company with Mr. Wilcox at
Vachets Restaurant on the Boulevards and had a very nice dinner. We afterwards went to the Concert Musard and
heard some very good music. While there,
we saw the eclipse of the moon, which lasted from about nine until eleven
o'clock and was almost complete. It was
a lovely night.
Today nothing of interest has transpired. F.S. called and sat a while this
morning. I also called to see Dr.
Dominique of La and met there a Mr. Mayer.
I saw also D. Metcalfe and R. Goring who have taken lodgings next door
to my Hotel. As I did not sleep much
last night I must make up for it tonight, so here goes.
Wednesday, Oct. 15th 12 1/2 a.m.
I went to La Charité this morning and visited Broquet's
wards. Finished breakfast as usual about
11 o'clock and spent the rest of the morning in studying and reciting French. Tonight, I went with F. Sanderson and Sauvé
to the Opera Comique and heard that beautiful Opera "Etoile du
Nord". The airs were all sung
beautifully etc. Much pleased.
(p.59)
Paris, October 16th, 1856
This morning I went to Hotel Dieu and spent a couple of hours in
visiting the wards. At two o’clock I
went out to the Champ de Mars to witness some races. There was a great crowd and a considerable
number of ladies. The horses looked very
pretty and ran very well. There were
three races. While there, I saw a man thrown
from his horse while galloping [sic] across the field, but was not hurt very
badly. It commenced raining about three
o'clock and continued the rest of the day.
Tonight I have been writing my French exercises. I finished this morning one of Moliere’s
Comedies, le bourgeois gentilhomme. It
was very amusing. I have now read three
or four of these comedies etc.
October 17th, 1856 12 1/2 a.m.
I spent the morning as usual in attending the Hospital and
studying French. F. Sanderson came over
awhile before dinner and then went to dine with me. Tonight we went to the Imperial Opera, where
we heard two acts of Lucia de Lamermoor and afterwards saw the
"Elfes", a most beautiful “ballet fantastique.” The dancing surpassed
anything I ever saw and the scenery was grand beyond description. All fairy-like etc.
[p.60]
Paris, October 18th 1856
This morning passed off as usual.
This afternoon F. Sanderson came over and sat awhile and I went to dine
with him at Maurice's Hotel and afterwards went with him to the Italian opera,
where we heard the beautiful opera "Beatrix de Tenda". The Prime
Donna, whose name I have forgotten, sang to perfection and received great
applause. Bravo Bravo. This is a very pretty theatre, though not as
large as the Imperial Opera. We saw
there some of the elite of Paris, but though the house was full, there were not
many beautiful faces, which seem to be more rare than diamonds in the great
emporium of fashion &c. I commenced
a letter to Sister today, but was interrupted.
Au revoir.
Sunday, Oct. 19th
I went with Sanderson to church this morning and afterwards rode
with him out to Bois de Boulogne. We met
the Emperor and Empress coming in from Saint Cloud. Several coaches and four formed the train with
courtiers in them. The day was
delightful and we met beaucoup de monde
riding out to enjoy the pleasant sunshine.
Finished a letter to Sister tonight.
(p.61)
Monday, October 20th 1856
This has been a cool, gloomy day and just the reverse of what it
was yesterday. F. Sanderson left this
morning for London, where he will spend a week before sailing across the vasty
deep. I commenced a letter to Dr.
Cartwright today, but cannot say when it will be finished. Letter writing is a great bore to me, and if
it was not for receiving answers I don't think I should bore myself often by
writing them. Too sleepy to proceed, as
usual.
Thursday, 23rd October 1856
I have not written for several days for want of a subject. I
dispatched a letter to Dr. Cartwright day before yesterday by Mr. Boisblanc,
who left direct for New Orleans. I wrote
a long letter to Dr. Stone today to send by Mr. Ralston. The weather has been quite cool for several
days and a fire would be comfortable, but fuel is too expensive for me to have
fire as long as I can do without it. It
is quite dark now by six o'clock, and the sun does not rise much before seven
in the morning. I received a pleasant
letter from Sister a day or two since, and was gratified to learn that all very
well at home, afar off.
(p.62)
Paris Oct. 24, 1856
I went to Hotel Dieu this morning as usual and spent about three
hours in visiting the wards. After
breakfast I studied and recited a French lesson, which consumed the day until
dinner. I received a nice long and
pleasant letter from Ma. She had
returned from a trip to Virginia where she went with Wes and Fan for
health. She went with Gov. Means family,
who went on to attend Stark Means wedding.
The letter contained the sad intelligence of the death of Mrs. Glover of
Orangeburg, wife of the Judge. I was
very much gratified to hear of Andrew Wardlaw's restoration to health after seven
or eight months of severe illness. This
evening I called to see Mr. and Mrs. Ralston at the Hotel du Louvre, and spent
a couple of hours very pleasantly in listening to the recital of their travels
&c. They arrived last night from
Italy, having left Rome on Monday last.
The weather tonight is quite cool and uncomfortable. Rien de plus.
(p.63)
Paris, Sunday, Oct. 26th, 1856
Yesterday was a lovely day, bright and pleasant. I went in the morning with Mrs. Ralson to
choose a Mantle for Sister. We visited
four or five of the largest stores in Paris and were out about three
hours. These immense stores contain
every variety of dry-goods and keep several hundred clerks, male and female,
occupied. They are very handsomely
fitted up with mirrors etc. and present a grand appearance. I dined with Mr. and Mrs. Ralston at the
Hotel du Louvre and spent a very pleasant evening. I afterwards wrote to Sister
and to Uncle Albert. This morning I went
to the Wesleyan Chapel and heard a capital sermon on the Omnipresence of
God. I saw the two younger Miss Masons
there looking quite blooming. The little
chapel was crowded as is usually the case when the weather is fine. Tonight I called with Percy to bid Mr. and Mrs.
Ralson goodbye. They leave tomorrow for
London and will sail in the Baltic on Wednesday from Liverpool. I was introduced while there to a Mr. Maxwell
and lady, a newly married couple from South Carolina. Also to Mr. Lamdin, an artist of Philadelphia.
(p.63)
Paris, Oct. 30th 1856
I have neglected my journal for several days for want of something
worthy of record.
A daily routine of attending hospitals, studying French &c.
furnishes but little to fill a journal.
Day before yesterday, I went with several friends to a Hospital in the
lower portion of the city (Notre Dame de la Pitié) to see Masoneurie[?], a
celebrated surgeon, perform a difficult operation. He tied the common carotid artery of a
patient with a malignant ulcer on one side of the tongue. The operation was very skillfully performed
and the patient thus far is doing well.
Last night I went with Sauve and Boisblanc to the Imperial Theatre
de 1'Odeon and saw "Les Precieuses Ridicules" of Moliere and two
other pieces performed tolerably well.
Monsieur Jeane, my French teacher, was sick yesterday, and did not
make his appearance. It is the first
time he has failed to come since I commenced with him more than two months
ago. Today, I have been reading a French
medical work, and find but little difficulty in translating. Au revoir.
(p.65)
Pere La Chaise
Paris, Saturday, November 1st ‘56
I arose this morning at six o'clock and went to l’Hôpital de la
Charité to commence a practical course on surgical diagnosis under Velpeau's
intern. I saw the stars shining when I
got up and I had to light a candle to dress by.
The sun does not rise until about seven o'clock now.
This being All Saint's Day is observed as a general holyday. I went with Sauvé, Boisblanc and Percy to Pere
la Chaise the great cemetery of Paris.
Everybody goes there today to visit the sepulchers [sic] of departed
relatives and friends and to adorn them with souvenirs. The continual stream of human beings pouring
in through the gates this afternoon, reminded me of a strong current in a
river. It seemed as if the whole of
Paris had congregated there the crowd was so great. This cemetery is situated at the northeastern
extremity of Paris on an eminence from which we had a fine view of the city and
vicinity. It contains about one hundred
and fifty acres and is surrounded by a high wall. Its surface is very uneven, resembling in
that respect Mont [sic] Auburn
9P.66)
at Boston, but is not as handsome as that cemetery or Greenwood,
New York. This may litterally [sic] be
termed a city of the dead as most of the tombs are enclosed in small stone
houses or vaults with iron-railing doors.
They are very much crowded together which prevents the handsome ones
from showing to very great advantage.
One of the largest monuments is that erected by public subscription to
the memory of Casimir Perier, Prime Minister in 1832, consisting of an
excellent statue of that statesman placed on a lofty and richly decorated
pedestal and basement. Others deserving
notice are those of Marshal Lefebre and other Marshals of France. General Foy, an equestrian statue of General
Gobert &c.
Nearly all of the tombs were decorated with wreaths of flowers &c.
as is the custom in all Catholic cemeteries.
I saw two small monuments erected to the memory of Americans, who had
died in Paris. There were also monuments
of Sidney Smith and a number of other Englishmen. In many of the sepulchres were crucifixes and
candles burning in honour of the day and the dead.
The day was bright and pleasant though rather cold. Tired and sleepy.
(p.67)
Sunday, Nov. 2nd 1856
I received a letter from Gabriel this morning of the 4th Ult. Cotton crops will be short, but bring a good
price. Some from Warren had been sold
for 13 cts. Political excitement very
great but Buchanan's election almost certain.
I went with Dr. Waring this morning to the Wesleyan Chapel and
heard a very good sermon. As it was very
cold and cloudy today, there was not as large a crowd there as usual.
I commenced taking my meals with a French family today. There are the mother, two daughters, a little
son and an Italian lady in the family and five Americans, Gadfrey and West of
Ga., Gibbs of Mass., Percy and myself, who will take our meals there at the
rate of one hundred francs a month. I
intend to speak French entirely and hope to improve very rapidly.
Tonight I went with Dabney and Tooke up to Judge Mason's and spent
a couple of hours very pleasantly. The
two eldest daughters have been in Germany for several weeks and will not return
for a fortnight yet. They are at the
Hague. I met Mrs. General Scott there. [Mrs. Winfield Scott] She intends spending the
winter in Paris.
(p.68)
Paris, November 4th ‘56
I received a letter from D. Walworth this morning dated Natchez,
Oct. 10th, which is the shortest time in which I have yet
received a letter from home. He says
that political excitement is now very great at home. Today the Presidential election will take
place and I sincerely trust that Mr. Buchanan will be elected over his opponents
Fremont, Free Soiler, and Fillmore, Know Nothing. D. says that he made his maiden political
speech a few days before he wrote.
A few days ago I received a letter from the Corresponding
Secretary of the American Medical Society of Paris informing me of my election
as an active Member of that body. I
attended their meeting tonight and was much interested by some of the reports
made on cases at the different Hospitals &c. I have no doubt that it will be very
instructive as well as entertaining to attend its meetings which I intend to do
regularly. Dr. Gausdin of Charleston is
President.
I have had fire in my room today for the first time, and it is
quite cold now.
(p.69)
Paris, November 10th ‘56
I have neglected my journal for some days for want of something
interesting to write.
Today I dispatched a letter to Sister.
I arose this morning at six o’clock which is scarcely daylight and
went to the Hospital at seven. Drs.
Waring, Stoney, MacMillan and myself are taking a private course with Mr.
Labait, Velpeau's interne, on surgical pathology. I find it very improving.
The lady with whom I board is named Madame la Comtesse D'Autille.
late of Ville Neuve la Guyard. B. Rhett
is also boarding there now. I am very
much pleased and think I am improving a little in talking French.
This has been a miserable rainy day, though not very cold. For the past two or three weeks it has been
clear nearly all the time, but it has commenced raining and will probably
continue for some time. I am afraid that
my resolution to keep up my journal is about to be broken, as I find it hard
work “to squeeze blood out of a turnip.” However, I will endeavor at least to write
occasionally.
(p.70)
Paris, November 11th /56
When I got up this morning, I found it snowing, but it did not
last long and at ten o’clock the sun was shining, and it promised to be a fine
day, but this afternoon it commenced raining and continued so the remainder of
the day. The temperature however is
moderate.
I received a pleasant letter from Sister this morning dated 14th
October. She mentioned the death of
Capt. Frank Surget, John Liddell and Mrs. Judge A. N. Ogden. Capt. Surget's estate is said to be worth six
millions of dollars. Mr. Liddell died in
Scotland of softening of the brain caused, I suppose, by former intemperate
habits.
Madame Davide dined at our house today. She is a fine looking Italian lady. Her husband is an amateur artiste, who is
traveling about nearly all the time.
Tonight I attended the regular meeting of the American Medical
Society, and was interested in its discussions, etc. As I must get up at six tomorrow, I must to
bed.
(p.71)
November 14th 1856
Again I find myself neglecting my journal, for want of items and
inclination, and from idleness or at least from want to time to devote to
it. A day or two since my old friend and
classmate Dr. Peter Griffin of S.C. arrived in Paris, and I was delighted to
see him. He has not altered a speck
since our College days and is as clever as he is ugly. He has taken lodgings at our Hotel, and is
very comfortably fixed. He has come to
pursue his Medical Studies, and expects to remain as long as I do.
I called to see Rhett this morning. He has been confined to his room for several
days, but is not much sick. Robinson and
Baily of Charleston are also sick. I
suppose it must be owing to the weather, which is rainy, damp and disagreeable
in the extreme. I am told that nearly all Americans have an attack of some sort
within the first few months of their sojourn in Paris. I have escaped thus far, however, and trust I
may be an exception to the general rule.
Today I have spent in studying and reciting French, and reading. Went to the Hospital ce matin.
(p.72)
Paris, Nov. 16th, 1856
The weather at present is not very cold, though an overcoat is
comfortable. The sun shines for a little
while, and then is hidden behind the clouds.
The weather is certainly very capricious and uncertain. This morning I started out with Griffin for a
long walk to show him something of Paris.
We first went up Rue St. Honore to a fine church, called St. Rock, which
is a fine edifice, the interior of which is decorated with paintings of
scriptural scenes, statues of the Saints &c. This I believe is considered the fashionable
church of Paris. We then went to the
Madeleine of which I have spoken before.
Afterwards we stroled [sic] through the Tuileries, Place de la Concorde
and up the Chanmps Elysées to the Arc Triomphe d'Etoile. We saw thousands of equipages going to and
returning from the Bois de Boulogne. The Tuileries has quite a dreary
appearance now, as all the trees are bare and the orange trees have been
removed to the greenhouse. There were
any quantity of nurses and children in this garden at play, &c.
(p.73)
Tuesday, Nov. 18th 1856
Yesterday we had the prefect of the Department of the Seine to
dine at our house. He was a plain
looking old gentleman and very talkative.
He promised to send us tickets to go to Hotel de Ville on Thursday.
Madame Davide dined with us today and will probably continue to do
so now as she has apartments in this quarter.
I received a letter from John Sims this morning, but it contained
no news of interest.
Tonight I attended the meeting of the American Medical
Society and was very much interested by the discussions and reports. I was introduced to Drs. Lazarus and Hudson
and another Dr. (Lewis) whose name I have forgotten. I also met Dr. Miles of Charleston there. Weather rainy & gloomy.
Nov. 19th
This has been another gloomy rainy day. It was scarcely daylight this morning at
seven o'clock, when I went to the Hospital.
I heard Velpeau lecture this morning.
Nearly all the lectures have commenced now. Sauvé & Boisblanc commenced boarding at
our house today. Au revoir.
[p.74]
Paris, November 21st 1856
Yesterday I went over to Greene & Co. to draw some money and
read the American papers. The latest New
York papers were dated the 5th Inst. but they contained no news concerning the
election. Today, however, the news by
the Atlantic was received, announcing the election of Buchanan and Breckenridge
by a large majority. Hurra! for the
Democrats & the Constitution.
I called with Sauvé yesterday to see Mr. Miltenberger of New
Orleans. He is threatened with
Consumption and has been under treatment here for some months. He speaks of going to Egypt to spend the
winter. This morning I went to the Hospital de la Charité at 7 o'clock and
after I had finished my course there I went to the Clinique de la Falculté and
heard Nelaton lecture. He also performed
an operation, removing half of the upper jaw &c. but the crowd was so great
that I could not see. I discharged by
French teacher today, having taken lessons with him three months. Je comprends le Francais a present passablement
bien, et je parle un peu mais pas beaucoup.
[rough translation: I now understand French reasonably well and I speak
a lot, although a bit poorly.] Rhett and
Metcalf called to see me tonight.
(p.75)
Monday, Nov. 24th 1856
This morning I went to La Charité to take my course with Velpeau's
intern and afterwards went to hear Nelaton lecture at the Clinique. I saw there the "blue man" of New
York, who has come over here and entered the Hospital to be treated for
Epilepsy. About sixteen years ago he
took a quantity of Nitrate of Silver, which completely discolored his skin,
making it almost blue, so that he present [sic] a most singular
appearance. After taking this remedy, he
says that he was free from convulsions for two years. Then, they gradually returned, having at
first one in three or four months until now he has them every day. He says that he is of good family, but that
when he became discolored they discarded him and now will not admit him in
their houses. His name is Butler and is apparently about thirty years of age.
I wrote to sister today to go by the Atlantic. I had nothing of much interest to write, but
gave a description &c of the Bourse which I visited a few days since. It is certainly a great curiosity when it is
crowded as is always the case from 1 to 3 o'cl.
[p.76]
Paris, November 28th 1856
A few days since I received the following invitation from the
accomplished lady of our Minister - "Madame Mason chez elle, jeudi soir le
27 Novembre, à 9 1/2 heures".
Accordingly last evening after being duly equipped and coiffured, I
started to the Soireé. I arrived at
about 10 o'clock and after being announced at the door of the saloon by an old
fellow in tights, I was ushered into the brilliant saloons [sic], where
Mrs. Mason and one of her daughters were standing to receive the company. I found quite a large assembly of American
ladies and gentlemen and a few English and French there, and a number came in
afterwards until the rooms were all pretty well crowded. I saw the Russian ambassador, who spoke
English very fluently. He was quite a
large man with a pleasant expression &c.
I did not see any other foreign Ministers. One room was set aside for dancing, but as
they danced the fancy dances almost entirely, I did not participate much and was
not introduced to any of the ladies as there were a great many more gentlemen
(p.77)
than ladies, consequently I did not spend the evening very
pleasantly, as the Misses Mason were generally dancing or busy seeing that
their guests were entertained properly.
However, I met several gentlemen acquaintances and we amused ourselves
very well for awhile in observations &c.
There was one old lady there who attracted my attention and set me to
moralizing on the vainity [sic] of the world. She was apparently about seventy
years of age and was affected with palsy so that her head was constantly
trembling. She was attired most
gorgeously in velvet, laces and diamonds which contrasted strangely with her
feeble appearance, as she tottered about through the crowd, supported by a grey
headed old gentleman. She was an English woman I believe named Mrs.
Culpepper. I saw Mrs. General Scott
there also. In one room was a table with
refreshments where the company could go and partake when they felt
disposed. I met there Lowndes of S.C.
whom I had not seen since I left College.
He has been in Europe about two years, mostly in Germany, and is now on
his way home. I left at about half past
one o'clock, when about half of the company had left. Rudd told me today that they danced till after
two &c. Thus ended my first Soirée
in Paris.
[p.78]
Paris, November 29th 1856
During the past week I have been attending several lectures at l'Ecole
de Medicine and l'Ecole Pratique. Have
heard Malgrine Janjavay, Becland, Clerc &c.
The other day I went into the Museum of the College where may be seen a
beautiful collection of anatomical preparations of every description. There is also a very fine marble statue of
Cuvier, the greatest of French naturalists.
Attached to the Museum is a large library open to students every
day.
I received letters several days ago from Sister and Gabriel. Cotton was selling for thirteen and fourteen
cents in New Orleans. I commenced
writing to Ma tonight and will finish it tomorrow. The sun shone nearly all today, for a wonder,
and it is turning much colder. I have a
boil on the back of my neck which is any thing but comfortable.
Dec. 2nd 1856
I received two letters today, one from Sister and a letter from
Andrew Waldlaw. I was gratified to learn
that the latter had almost entirely recovered his strength and vigour after a
six months illness. It snowed last night
and was very cold today. I visited the
Catacombs today, but am too sleepy and tired to give an account of it tonight.
(p.79)
A Visit to the Catacombs of Paris
A visit to the Catacombs ought probably to be more highly
appreciated from the difficulty of obtaining a permit. A lady friend of Dr., Godfrey succeeded
however in obtaining a permit for a party of us consisting of Dr. Godfrey of
Ga., Drs. Stoney, Waring, Bailey, Robinson and Gourdin of Charleston, S.C. and
myself. We started yesterday about three
o'clock p.m. and walked through the garden of Luxembourg, which presented a
lovely aspect, the ground, trees and statues being covered with snow as white
as alabaster. We then proceeded to the
barriere d'Enfer & to the entrance of the Catacombs. The guide having examined our permit we were
ushered into a court, where we had to wait about half an hour for the
Superintendent who had to accompany us.
We found there a number of others [sic] persons who had also obtained
permits, among whom were several ladies, making forty or fifty all
counted. Before proceeding further, I
will give the history of the Catacombs.
Paris is built upon a marl bed which is a soft species of rock but
which be-
[p.80]
comes very hard on exposure; hence, it is an excellent material
for building, as it can be easily carved and afterwards it becomes as hard and
as durable as granite. All of Paris
is built of this species of stone and the Catacombs were formerly quarries from
whence it was obtained. It is said
that these excavations extend under about one sixth of the city. These immense receptacles for the bones of
the dead were devoted to that purpose in 1784 when a decree was issued by the
Council of State for clearing the cemeteries and removing their contents into
these quarries which had existed from a remote period. The bones are allowed to remain in the
cemeteries a certain number of years and are then removed to the catacombs. At first they were thrown into heaps without
any kind of order except that those from each cemetery were kept separate. In 1810, a regular system of arranging the
bones was commenced under the direction of M. Hericart de Thury.
We entered a small door and after being furnished with torches in
the shape of tallow candles, we descended a narrow winding staircase about
eighty feet deep.
(p.81)
We then passed through a succession of narrow archways about five
or six feet wide, cut through the stone.
We proceeded for nearly half a mile, when we came to an iron door, which
being opened we were ushered into close proximity of the bones. They were tastefully arranged in walls on
each side of the passage. There was
first a row of skulls, then a number of layers of the long bones of the
extremities and then another row of skulls and so on until it reached seven or
eight feet in height. The smaller bones
filled up the inner part of the wall. We walked, I suppose, at least a quarter
of a mile with these walls of human bones an each side, and then I suppose only
saw a small portion of them. It is
estimated that the bones of at least three millions of human beings are
deposited there. What an episode on the
mortality of frail man. The ladies of
the party seemed to be very much interested and not at all frightened by this
strange spectacle. We were under ground
about an hour and came out very much pleased with our visit. I think it is the greatest curiosity that I
have yet seen. The greatest depth of the
Catacombs is said to be about 300 feet.
I brought out several pieces of rock as souvenirs.
[p.82]
December 3rd 1856
I went to the Charité this morning and took the last lesson of my
course from M. Labé, Intern of Velpeau, on Surgical Pathology &c. I expect to commence another course soon on
Auscultation &c. I also went
to the Clinique this morning to hear Nelaton lecture and saw him operate on a
patient for bony tumor of the upper jaw.
He took out the whole of the superior maxillary on one side. It is probably the most bloody operation that
can be performed, but was very skillfully done.
It has been snowing nearly all day and is quite cold. C'est
presque minuit.
December 8th 1856
My journal has been neglected for several days from want of time
and inclination to write. I wrote to
Gabriel today giving an account of my visit to the Catacombs, Bal de 1'Opera
etc.
This morning I went with West out to Hopital de la pitié to hear
Becquesel lecture. He is partially ball
[sic] and grey, being I suppose about forty-five or fifty years of age. He lectures very well though he stammers
considerably. I think I will attend his
lectures regularly, though it is a long walk.
(p.83)
The Grand Ball at the Opera
I neglected to render an account of this grand affair which took
place night before last, December 6th.
It was the second grand ball given at the Imperial Opera for the
benefit of the poor of Paris. As I heard
that the Emperor and Empress were to be there I made up my mind at about ten
o'clock to go, and persuaded Percy to go with me. We went at about eleven and having procured
tickets for ten francs a piece we marched in after paying a franc to
have our overcoats taken care of. We
found an immense crowd there, and had considerable difficulty in getting on to
the stage. The parterre was floored over
even with the stage which made a large space for dancing but the crowd was so
great that but a small space was left for the dancers. The music was perfectly enchanting. There were about eighty or ninety musicians
and they performed to perfection. It was
decidedly the best band I ever heard.
After pushing through the crowd, we got up quite near to the Emperor's
box and had a fine view of his Majesty and the Empress. He was attired in citizen's dress with his
badge and one or
[p.84]
two decorations. He has a
dull grey eye almost devoid of expression, but he has a determined look, as if
he would carry his point at all hazards [sic].
The Empress looked very pretty and was magnificently attired with a
profusion of brilliants in her hair and on her beautiful neck and
shoulders. Her features are small except
her mouth which is rather large, and with light hair. After my curiosity was satisfied I wandered
through the crowd and made my way out after having spent about two hours in all
at the Ball. There were a great many of
the Haut ton of Paris in private boxes, but I saw but few pretty faces. There were however any quantity of elegant
toilets. There must have been at least
seven or eight thousand people there during the evening. The Theatre was very brilliantly illuminated
with gas and candles.
Last evening I went up to Judge Mason's and spent a couple of
hours very pleasantly. I met there Mrs. Bodisco, Mrs. Gen.
Scott and several young ladies. The
elder Miss Mason sets out for Italy on a three months tour this week with some
friends. Her health is delicate. I rode home with Mrs. Scott and Dr.
Rudd. The latter demeure chez moi.
(p.85)
Thursday, December 11th 1856
The past three or four days have been very pleasant, mostly cloudy
with an occasional ray of sunshine but no rain, and warm enough to do without
fire. The other day I went up to Greene
& Co. to go security for Dr. H. Cooley of S.C. who was necessitated to borrow
$350, 00/100 on account of having been suddenly called home. I trust that I may
lose nothing by this my first time at endorsing.
I received a pleasant letter from Dr. Chaillé yesterday. He mentioned that he had "arrived at a
closer approximation to hymenial [sic] bliss! in prospective than ever
before." He did not inform me to
whom he was engaged, but Gabriel wrote me that it was no less a personage than
Miss Laura Montfort of New Orleans. She
is very intelligent and wealthy though not very pretty, at least according to
my taste.
Every day I go to one of the Hospitals and hear a clinical lecture
and also attend several lectures during the day and also endeavor to do a
certain amount of reading of French Medical works.
[p.86]
Paris, December 26th /56
I have neglected my diary for a longer time than usual from want
of inclination and of interesting items to record. Yesterday was Christmas but nothing occured to
distinguish it from any other day, except that there were masses held in all
the Churches. There were no canons [sic]
fired or popping of firecrackers and torpedoes by the boys in the streets. The sun shone very prettily about 12 o'cl,
but was soon hidden from view by the everlasting clouds. A party of us walked over on the Boulevards
to see the crowd and admire the beauties in the shop windows, and at three
o'clock went to St. Rock to witness the mass and hear the splendid chanting of
the choir. The music was equal to the
Opera. This immense church was crowded
to excess.
These being the shortest days in the year, the sun rises after
eight o'clock and goes down at about half-past three in the afternoon, just
skimming the horizon. Tonight I received
notice from Mr. Mason that I may be presented to their Majesties day after
tomorrow. I will give an account of it.
(p.87)
Presentation at the Tuileries
December 28th 1856
This has been a memorable day, in as much as I have had the honour
of being personally introduced to Royalty.
Several of my friends and myself received notice from our excellent
Minister, Mr. Mason night before last, that he would have the honour to present
us to their majesties at the Tuileries today.
The time was so short for getting our uniforms that we feared we would
be disappointed. However, we went over
yesterday morning to a tailor on the Boulevard des Italians who hired suits for
the occasion and fortunately succeeded in getting suited. The dress is more simple than I had
thought. It consists of a military dress
coat, dark blue or black embroidered with gilt lace and skirts lined with white
silk, buff vest with gilt buttons, white or black cassimere pants with
stripes of gilt lace, cocked hat, white cravat & gloves, sword and patent
leather boots. Being thus equipped, Drs.
Sauvé, Pancoast. Percy and myself took a carriage and went up to the Legation
according to instructions at 12 1/2 o'cl p.m.
We found a large party of ladies and gentlemen there, and when all had
assembled,
[p.88]
the party consisted of
about seventy-five persons. The time
appointed for the presentation was 1 1/2 p.m. but owing to the large size of
our party, the last half did not arrive at the anti-chamber [sic] of the Palace
till a quarter to two o'cl and consequently were too late to go into the
audience chamber with the first half with Mr. Mason at their head. We were requested to remain there, and
directly the Master of Ceremonies came, and in a decidedly angry tone, told us
that it was "pas du tout convenable" to be coming after the appointed
hour and that it was doubtful if the Emperor would receive us, as the reception
had already commenced. This was not at
all pleasant, the thought of being thus baffled after all our trouble. However, Mr. Wise, the gentlemanly Secretary
of our Legation, happened to be in the rear van, and he told us that the
Emperor would doubtless grant us a separate audience, if he had no pressing
engagement. Accordingly after waiting
about half an hour in a splendid apartment [sic], the Master of Ceremonies
returned, arranged us in a row around the room, the ladies on one side and the
gentlemen on the other, then
(p.89)
the doors were opened and 1'Empereur announced. The Empress was with him. He was also accompanied by about a dozen
officers of state &c. As they
entered the room we all bowed and Mr. Mason proceeded to introduce the Emperor
to the ladies, while the Empress was first introduced to the gentlemen by Mr.
Mason's Secretary. She would address a
few sentences to one and then pass on to the next. She spoke English very well, though she said
"her English was very short".
After she had finished the gentlemen, she proceeded to be introduced to
the ladies and the Emperor to the gentlemen.
He also addressed some question to almost every one, asking a great many
if they were from New York as if that City was foremost in his thoughts or as
if that was the only place in America worth talking about. His eye expresses more intelligence and is
not so dull as I thought it was when I saw him at the Opera. The Empress looked very sweet, but not as
pretty as when in evening dress. She was
dressed as if she was just going out to ride, with bonnet and cloak on. The Emperor was dressed in the Uniform of a
General with his badge and decorations.
After all had been introduced their Majesties retired and we were
permitted to view portions
[p.90]
of the Palace and we came out at a different part, near the
Centre, we having entered at one end of the Palace. The interior of the Palace presents a much
finer aspect than the exterior. The appartments
are all richly decorated with giIdings, carvings, frescos and paintings on the
walls. One appartment contains full
length portraits of all the most distinguished marshalls etc. The Ball rooms are magnificent, and I hope I
may be honored with an invitation to one of the grand Balls, so that I may have
an opportunity of viewing them to the best advantage. Both as we entered the Palace and made our
exit we noticed sentinels stationed all along to guard the entrances. They were
on the stair case as well as at the door.
As we drove into the yard of the Tuileries we saw the little Prince and
his armed cortege going out for a drive.
Among the ladies who were presented I only knew Mrs. Gen. Scott and two
of Mr. Mason's daughters. It was snowing
a little when we started out this morning, but soon ceased and we had quite a
pleasant day though rather cold.
Finis fiterm[?].
(p.91)
Paris, Wednesday, December 31st 1856
The last hour of the last day of an eventful year has arrived and
finds me located "pro tempore" in one of the greatest cities in the
world, the greatest emporium of Science and of pleasure. Here I am thousands of miles from home and
its endearments, and the prospect of yet another year finding me still in a
foreign land.
In a political point of view, the past year has not been an
uneventful one. The year commenced with
the greatest powers of Europe involved in warfare, but it closes with the
prevalence of universal peace. But with
the new year, there are foreshadows of other eruptions. Prussia and Switzerland are now engaged in a
quarrel concerning the province of Neufchatel, which if not amicably adjusted
may be the nucleus from which the whole of Europe may become involved In
warfare, and France and England are not likely to be allies again. In the United States there has been one of
the most exciting political campaigns ever known, which fortunately for the
country resulted in the election of Mr. James Buchanan to the Presidency. Civil war has also existed to a considerable
extent in the
[p.92]
Territory of Kansas. That
too has ceased and "peace reigns in Warsaw."
In private life, the passed [sic] year has witnessed seasons of
grief as well as pleasure. My much
beloved relative Netty Harper was ruthlessly snatched from her doting relatives
and loving friends by the inexorable hand of death. Also Col. Trotti and several others of my
connections have been numbered among the dead.
On the other hand, though I have wandered far from my native land, I
have enjoyed some of the pleasure of travel, have seen the sights of London,
and have been located in the Metropolis of France for five months.
Hark! I hear the death knell of the departing year, going, going,
gone. The hour of midnight is passed and
the old year has vanished with it. How
time flies, it is almost impossible to realize that I have been located in this
chamber no. 21 Hotel du Mont Blanc for five veritable months, but such is
nevertheless true, and probably more than that time will elapse before I vacate
it, tho' it seems a long time to look forward to. With the new year I must stir up my energies
and accomplish more than I have done the past year. Adieu to 1856.
(p.93)
January 4th, 1857
The weather on New Year's day was sloppy, cloudy and gloomy in the
extreme. About two o'clock Burnet Rhett
and myself started out to go to present the compliments of the season to Judge
Mason's family. After searching for more
than an hour in various directions, we succeeded in getting a voiture to ride
in. We spent about fifteen minutes at
Mr. Mason's, took a glass of egg-nogg and then went to call on Mrs. Gen. Scott. As we passed the Tuileries we saw crowds of
officers going to call on the Emperor, as is customary on New Years day. As the day was so unpleasant I did not go on
the Boulevards to see the great display of temporary shops along the sidewalks
etc.
The Archbishop of Paris was assasinated [sic] yesterday by a
Priest at the Eglise St. Etienne. The
papers say that the Priest was crazy, though others say that it was through
revenge for having been punished by the Archbishop for debauchery. It caused great excitement here.
Dr. Kennedy of Ala. called in this evening and entertained me very
agreeably for an hour or so with an account of his travels in the East, up the
Nile from Cairo, Jerusalem etc.
[p.94]
Wednesday, Jan. 7th, 1857
This has been one of the coldest days that we have yet had, very
cloudy but not raining. The sun shone
out for a little while this morning, but was soon obscured by the dense masses
of clouds. It snowed a little yesterday
morning and there is still a little remaining on the tops of the houses. The days are still very short. It is scarcely light at eight o'clock in the
morning.
I went this morning with a party of Americans to the Palace of the
Archbishop to see him laid out in State.
He has been embalmed and will be laid out for several days for everybody
to take a last look at him. The crowd
was immense and all had to fall into line and take their turn. There were three or four abreast and when we
arrived the line was already about a quarter of a mile long, but took our
places as we thought it would be something worth seeing. We advanced so slow that it was two hours
before we reached the gate of the Palace.
At last we were permitted to enter, and after passing through three
large rooms, all hung in black drapery, we were ushered into the presence of
the great dead. He was placed on a
(p.95)
large bed all hung in black, and in inclined position so that the
crowd as they passed along could have a full view of him. He looked very natural, dressed in gorgeous
pontifical robes &c. The eyes were
open and did not present the usual glair of death. It appeared more like a person lying at his
ease observing the crowd as they passed.
The bed was surrounded by a number of long candles and several priests
were in attendance, who would take the medals which the crowd presented to be
touched to foot of the Archbishop and return them to their owners, as souvenirs
of the great departed.
When we came out we found the crowd of anxious spectators even
greater than when we entered, so that the number of persons of all classes who
visited the departed Archbishop today alone amounted to many thousands. I suppose the grand Funeral Ceremony will
take place in a few days, when there will be another innumerable crowd. I understand that the heart of the Archbishop
was taken out and embalmed separately.
It was found to be pierced by the dagger of the Assassin. This is the second Archbishop of Paris who
has died by violence within eight years, the former one being killed during the
Revolution of 1848. The name of this one
was Marie-Dominique Auguste Libour.
[p.96]
January 18th 1857 Sunday
This has been a pleasanter day than usual, though it was by no
means clear bright and beautiful.
I received a pleasant letter from Ma dated Dec. 27th 1856. She mentions that Bev Means had been chosen
Librarian of the College and Robert Barnwell (Gabriel's classmate) had been
chosen Professor to succeed Dr. Lieber.
I received to-night an invitation to a Ball at the Tuileries on
Thursday, which I shall not fail to accept and will record an account of it
afterwards.
Verger, the Priest who assassinated the Archbishop, was tried
yesterday and condemned to death. He is
said to have made an eloquent address in his own defense, and was very much
excited, so much so that he had to be taken out of court. When the gendarmes were carrying him back to
jail, he called loudly on the people to save him, but they cried, "No, No
Assassin, Assassin".
Drs. Rudd and Percy started for Italy day before yesterday. They
expect to be absent four or five months.
(p.97)
January 21st 1857
As I will have to give up my card of invitation at the door I will
copy it as a Souvenir.
Par Ordre de 1'Empereur
Le Grand Chambellan
a 1'honneur de prevenir
Monsieur le Docteur
McPheeters
qu'i1 est invité à passer la
Soireé au Palais des Tuileries
le Jeudi 22 Janvier à 9 heures.
Duc de Bassanz
En Uniforme
On est prié de remettre cette carte
entrant.
[p.98]
Chambre 21
Paris, Friday Jan. 23rd '57
Ball at the Tuileries
Last night I was present at the most brilliant ball that I ever
attended and probably I never will see such another. Drs. Hudson, Moffat and myself went together
and reached the Palace at a little before ten o'cl. After mounting a long flight of marble steps,
on which were stationed sentinels of the Cent Guard in full dress, we delivered
our tickets to officers at the door, and were ushered into a magnificent
ballroom most brilliantly illuminated with chandeliers containing any quantity
of wax candles, and a splendid band of music were on a platform in about the
centre of it. This room is, I suppose,
at least two hundred feet in length.
Ladies attired in magnificent toilettes were sitting along each side on
benches covered with red velvet &c. We passed on into the next room, the Salle des
Marechaux which was densely crowded with ladies and gentlemen, awaiting the
coming of the Emperor and Empress to open the Ball. A few minutes after ten, they entered with
their attendants and
(p.99)
took their places for the first quadrille. The Empress danced with the Minister of State
and the Emperor vis a vis with the Princess Matilde. The crowd was so great that I was not able to
get near, and could only get a glimpse of the dancers occasionally over the
heads of the crowd. There were some half
a dozen other couples who danced in the same quadrille, but I am not able to
say who they were. In this room there
was also a splendid band. They were
seated in a gallery above.
After the dance was finished, their Majesties took seats on a
slightly elevated platform, to see others dance. Several ladies were seated on the left of the
Empress, and on the right of the Emperor sat Prince Napoleon, dressed like the
Emperor in a military coat, white knee breeches white silk stockings and pumps
and a broad red badge over his shoulder.
On his right were seated two young ladies. The Empress was very handsomely attired in a
"cherry silk" with flounces of Brussels lace; a row of diamonds
around her shoulders, and a necklace of brilliants. She also wore a beautiful crown of Pearls
etc. There were three other large rooms
for prom-[9.100]
enading, card playing, &c.
At about twelve o'clock the Emperor passed through the crowd bowing and
stopping occasionally to speak to some acquaintances. As he approached all who were seated arose
and saluted him. At the upper end of the
Ballrooms was a refreshment room with punches, cakes etc. At the
other end of the Palace were the magnificent supper rooms. At about half past
one o'clock, their Majesties led the way to supper. The crowd was so great that only the ladies
and the gentlemen accompanying them were admitted at first. After waiting about half an hour or so we
succeeded in gaining admittance. Two
very long rooms had tables on each side, containing every kind of delicacy
which the appetite could suggest. There
was also any quantity of superb champagne, red wines &c. I enjoyed that portion of the evening very
much.
Immediately after supper their Majesties retired, and so did a
great many others, but the dancing continued until after we left at three
o'clock. I met Mrs. Mason and two of her
daughters there, also Madame Bodisco, Mr. Wise, Morton etc.
(p.101)
I was told that there were three thousand persons present, among
whom were about forty Americans. There
were a great many more gentlemen than ladies.
There was every variety of costume and any quantity of officers and decorated
personages, ambassadors etc.
A Cent Guard was stationed at each door with musket in hand to add
to the grandeur of the scene. They are
all over six feet high, with a beautiful uniform, steel breastplates etc., and
present a very imposing appearance.
There were the greatest quantity of servants in the supper rooms and
everything was done in the grandest style imaginable. I would not take a great deal for last
night's experience, as I had an opportunity of witnessing how a ball of the
Court of a great nation was conducted and of beholding one of the most
brilliant assemblages that man ever witnessed.
I did not have an opportunity of dancing, as the only young ladies I
knew were engaged. I should liked
however to have "tripped once on the light fantastic toe" in the
magnificent Palace of the Tuileries. So
ends the tableau
[p.102]
63 rue de Seine No. 9
Paris, February 8th, 1857
I find myself becoming very negligent about keeping up my journal,
partly from want of inclination and partly from want of time to think of items
worthy of record.
Verger, the priest who assassinated the Archbishop, failing in his
attempt to have a new trial, was guillotined about ten days ago at eight
o'clock in the morning. Although the
Authorities endeavored to keep the time of execution very secret, there were
said to be about ten thousand eager spectators at the Barriere where the
execution was to take place, at a very early hour. The assassin is said to have died like a
coward and was completely overcome when informed that his last hour had
arrived. At first he was very violent,
declaring that it was impossible and that he would not die and positively
refused to leave his cell, so that he had to be taken by force. Then he commenced begging to be spared a few
hours longer, but the law had to be obeyed and there was no room for mercy.
Another Archbishop has been appointed by the Emperor.
(p.103)
The difficulties about the canton of Neufchatel which threatened a
war between Switzerland and Prussia have been happily adjusted through the
intervention of Napoleon III and of England.
The political affairs at Naples are in a terrible state. The tyrannical Neapolitan King has filled his
prisons with persons of all classes on mere suspicion of political differences
of opinion. Such a despotical state of
affairs cannot exist long, and the reaction will probably cost the tyrant his
throne and his life. Owing to the
conduct of that King the English and French ambassadors were withdrawn from the
Court of Naples some time since. I
should be very glad to hear of the overthrow of that monster tyrant,
A short time of [sic, i.e. after]
the assassination of the Archbishop of Paris, an attempt was made upon the life
of the Archbishop of Naples by some fellow ambitious of having his name in
the papers.
England has declared war with Persia but as yet no battles have
been fought, though active preparations are going on on both sides. It is to be hoped that their difficulties may
be amicably settled before actual hostilities commence.
[p.104]
The weather for the past week has been for the most part cold, but
bright and dry. Today it was perfectly
charming, bright and balmy and not too cold.
This morning I went with Rhett to the Wesleyan Chapel and heard a very
good sermon on the "Scene of Angels".
We afterwards strolled up the Champs Elysees to enjoy the bright
sunshine and to see the monde.
Every body seemed to be out promenading or riding today. We saw thousands of equipages of every grade
going to and returning from the Bois de Boulogne, and there were more promenaders
than I have seen there since the night of the illumination, the 15th of August
last. Every thing presented a gay aspect
and it gave me a better idea of the gaiety and beauty of Paris than I have yet
had. Such splendid weather is too good
to last long.
About a week ago, I went with Dr. Kennedy of Ala. to call on Mrs.
Gen. Scott and spent the evening very pleasantly. Yesternight we went to see the Misses McCord
of S.C. to whom I had been introduced about a fortnight ago. They are very pleasant young ladies, and the
evening passed off very agreeably.
(p.105)
Paris, February 11th, 1857
As I expected, the weather was too beautiful last week to
last. It commenced raining again on
Monday and has been cloudy, damp and disagreeable ever since. Yesterday being Mrs. Scott's reception day, I
went with Rhett and Dr. Kennedy to make a call. We met there a Mr. Train, a
very intelligent and wealthy Boston merchant.
He entertained us with accounts of his travels in China, Australia &c.
Last night, to vary the monotony of my present mode of life, I
went with Rhett & Kennedy to the Italian Opera to hear "Il
Trouvatore". Alboni, Frezolini,
Mario and Grazziani all sang in important parts. The latter is said to be the best Baritone in
the world, as Mario is the best Tenor, and Alboni considered by many the best
Soprano. Fretzolini also received a
great deal of applause and a number of fine bouquets. The House was crowded with the elite of Paris,
but I did not see many beautiful faces.
Today I have relapsed into the usual even tenor of my way,
attending Hospitals, cliniques and reading Medicine. Dr. Phillips of Pa. leaves for home tonight.
[p.106]
February 16th,1857
The weather for a few days past has been charming, clear and not
at all cold. The winter at home from all
accounts has been unusually severe. In
some of the Northern states the thermometer has stood as low as 25° below zero,
and at New Orleans 25° above.
The last mail brought the sad intelligence of the sudden demise of
Hon. Preston S. Brooks at Washington city.
Although he had been unwell for several days, he was not considered
dangerously ill until about two hours before his death. From all that I can learn from the papers he
must have died from suffocation caused by violent laryngitis or aedema of the
glottis. His doting wife and children
were far away and doubtless perfectly unconcious [sic] of his danger until all
was over, and his earthly career was finished.
Their grief can well be imagined and the shock must have be [sic, i.e. been] terrible. He died lamented by not only his personal
friends, but by a large constituency who [sic] he had nobly represented in the
Federal Congress and indeed by the whole state of which he was an ornament.
(p.107)
Paris, February 22nd, /57
Another week is "numbered among the things that
were". The weather for the most
part has been clear and pleasant, and today has been perfectly charming. A few nights ago, I went with Rhett to the
Italian Opera and heard "Don Giovanni". It is a pretty opera but I did not like it as
well as "II Trovatore".
Alboni, Frezzolini, Grazziani and several excellent singers held
important roles.
A few nights ago. Dr. Weatherly of N.C. stepped in upon me very
unexpectedly. I had no warning of his
coming and therefore was very much surprised to see him. He is going on to Italy tomorrow, but expects
to return to Paris in the course of several months. I rode with him today out to the Chapel of
St. Ferdinand which was erected to the memory of the Duke of Orleans, and
afterwards rode through the Bois de Boulogne where we saw thousands of
carriages and promenaders, all bent on enjoying the delightful day. I was introduced to several of Dr.
Weatherly's travelling companions, Mr. Fitz of New Orleans, Messrs. Wright and
Williams of Philadelphia. The latter two
are going to Italy with him. No news.
[p.108]
Wednesday, February 25th, 1857
Today is Ash Wednesday, the beginning of lent [sic]. Yesterday, Mardi Gras being the last day of
the Carnival was a grand Fete day. The
Boulevards were literally [sic] jammed with crowds of people who went thither
to witness the procession of the Boeuf Gras, the Masquers etc. According to an old custom, the Butchers of
Paris parade through the streets on the last two or three days of the Carnival
with the prize beef. I saw the
procession yesterday as it was going into the Place des Tuileries to be
witnessed by the Emperor and Empress.
The Butchers dressed in funny costumes rode on horseback in front, then
came the car containing the Bouef Gras, drawn by four horses and ornamented
with wreaths &c. Then followed
another large car drawn by eight horses, also decorated with garlands of
flowers &c. This car carried
Jupiter, Hercules and the nymphes [sic] represented by butchers wifes [sic] in
fancy costumes. Higher than the rest was
one holding a child with a wreath on its head, which represented "le Roi
des bouchers". The procession
stopped before the Palace, and the band commenced playing, when the Emperor and
Empress made their appearance on a balcony
(p.109)
above. The crowd, who were permitted to follow the procession,
greeted his Majesty with healthy shouts of "Vive 1'Empereur". While the band was playing, old Jupiter
descended from his triumphal chariot and taking the “King of the Butchers” in
his arms, went up in the Palace to present him to the Emperor and Empress. After playing several tunes, the procession
made a circuit in front of their Majesties and then proceeded into other parts
of the city. This beef is said to weigh 1145 kilogrammes or about twenty-five
hundred (2500) pounds. There was also
another no horned beef of smaller proportion in the same procession.
After leaving the Tuileries, we strolled up Rue Rivoli and Rue de
la Paix to the Boulevards where we found an immense concourse of people. Indeed the crowd was so thick all along the
Boulevards that it was with difficulty that we could proceed. We saw quite a number of persons dressed in
fantastical costumes exhibiting themselves for the amusement of the crowd. We saw the Boeuf Gras pass again. The day was
fine and everybody seemed to be out of doors.
Last night Mask Balls were given every where but I was too tired to go
to any of them, which I regretted.
[p.110]
Paris, March 9th, 1857
I have such a repugnance for writing that I find it difficult now
even to make an occasional note in my Diary, especially when I have nothing of
interest to record. The bad weather has
commenced again and we are having now what the French term les giboulées de
Mass. Yesterday and today there was
every variety of weather, sunshine, rain, snow, sleet and high winds. It has been quite cold also today.
Last week I commenced a course on Internal Pathology with Drs.
Miles and Stoney at la Charité. Le Dr.
Blain des Cormiss, Chef de Clinique of M. Prossy's wards is our
instructor. We go there at 7 1/2 o'clock
in the morning to visit the patients and hear his bedside lectures. Such courses are very instructive and I am very
much pleased with the one I am taking. I
finished a similar one in Bouillauds' wards a short time since. I wrote to Uncle Albert and Mary Garrett last
week. I received letters from Sister and
Ma yesterday, which were read and reread with great pleasure, as such treats in
this distant land do not happen very often.
(p.111)
I was sorry to learn by Sister [sic] letter the sad intelligence
of the death of Aunt McPheeters, who departed this life at Shelbyville,
Kentucky on the 8th of January last. It
is sad to think in what rapid succession three Sisters and the Mother followed
each other to the grave. The same letter
mentioned the death of Freeland Buckner, only son of Cousin Sarah Buckner, a
young man of good ability but unfortunately of very dissipated habits.
I recommenced taking lessons in French today. Although I understand it pretty well, I
cannot speak at all fluently, but hope to do so in a short time by paying
renewed attention to it. A few nights
ago I went with Sauvé to the Vaudeville Theatre to hear "Les Faux
bonshommes", a comedy of great merit which has been played more than an
hundred times in Paris within the past year.
I was very much pleased with it.
The Faux Bonshommes are men who profess friendship for those who are
sick but in adversity they desert them.
It is a satire on the speculations at the Bourse. I forgot to mention that my French teacher is
a very intelligent French lady, Madame Bichat.
Her husband is a nephew of the great Physiologist of that name.
[p.112]
Paris. March 21st 1857
I have allowed nearly two weeks to pass without writing a line in
my journal as no unusual occurence transpired worthy of record until day before
yesterday, which was mi carème or mid-lent.
All the Catholics take a respite from their fastings &c on
that day, and have a general jubilee. At
Paris it is also called the "Fete des Blanchisseuses", as the
washerwomen with their Queen, gorgeously arrayed, form a procession and parade
through the streets. The procession
consisted of a triumphal car, decorated with garlands &c. which contained
the Queen and her attendants, and about twenty carriages, containing men and
women dressed in all kinds of fancy costumes, followed. It was a very pretty sight. There were several other smaller processions
of the same kind, which I saw on the Champs Elysees, Rue Rivoli &c. At three o'clock in the afternoon, I went
with several friends to the Bal des Enfants at the Jardin d'hiver. It was a beautiful sight to see several
hundred children arrayed in fancy costumes all dancing and frolicking together. Many of the costumes were very rich.
(p.113)
The jardin d'hiver is one of the prettiest ball rooms in
Paris. It is like a large green house,
containing many exotic plants and has several pretty fountains in the midst of
beds of beautifully green grass &c.
It resembles very much a portion of the Sydenham Crystal Palace, near
London. At night when it is brilliantly
illuminated and crowded with gay dancers one might almost imagine himself in a
fairy palace.
On mi-careme night Bals Masques were given in all the public
places for that kind of amusement. I
went to the one at the Grand Opera and was very much amused at the various
fantastic costumes, most of which were rediculous [sic] in the extreme. The Ball did not commence till twelve o'clock
and continued until daylight. The crowd was
very large but not as great as at a previous ball which I attended. The music was exquisite and the dancing
decidedly fantastic. I reached home at
five o'clock and slept till ten.
Today I received a letter from Gabriel of the 25th ult. The weather today has been quite cold though
clear. The winter is not yet over.
[p.114]
63 rue de Seine, No. 9
Paris, April 4th /57
I cannot allow a longer time to elapse without writing a few lines
to note passing events. Among the most
important of which may be mentioned the failure of the American bankers Greene
& Co which occured about a week ago.
This sad catastrophe came very unexpectedly, and is said to have been
caused by unfortunate speculations in Central America, where they have funds
invested to the amount of six hundred thousand dollars. It is the current opinion however that they
will be able to pay about sixty per cent to their creditors. Many of my friends have been inconvenienced
by this failure, losing amounts varying from one to six or seven hundred
dollars. Metcalfe lost or rather had
deposited four hundred dollars, Griffin two hundred, Godfrey three hundred and
fifty &c. I would have lost over
four hundred dollars, if I had not have paid
(p.115)
a draft of Dr. Cooly's which I very imprudently endorsed when he was
compelled to borrow money to go home with in December last. I paid his draft on Charleston which had been
returned protested the week before the failure. Consequently, I only had about
seventy dollars remaining in the hands of Green & Co. when they suspended
payment. I hope however to recover the
three hundred and fifty dollars which I paid for Dr. Cooly as he always was
considered while here a very upright and honest young man.
Two of my friends departed for London this evening on their way to
America. Dr. J. Ervin Godfrey of
Savannah, Ga. and Dr. J. F. Kennedy of Alabama.
Seeing them depart made me feel very much like going with them. Dr. Kennedy whose acquaintance I formed
several months ago has been on this side of the Atlantic for three years and
has travelled all over Europe and in Egypt, Syria, Palestine &c. I hated very much to part with him as he is
one of the most agreeable ac-
[p.116]
quaintances that I have formed since my arrival in Paris. Godfrey is also a. very clever fellow, whom I
knew in Philadelphia. He has spent about
a year in Paris and now goes home to practice his profession and to get a wife
- Happy fellow!!
My daily routine now consists in going to the Hospitals in the
mornings and studying French and reading during the day and at night. My French teacher, Madame Bichat, does all in
her power to make me talk, but it is rather slow work. I can understand, however, very well now,
which is the great desideratum, as far as Medicine is concerned. The weather is still unsettled but is not
cold. Last Sunday however was one of the
most charming days I ever saw, being bright without a cloud, cool and pleasant
in the extreme. The trees in the Gardens
are beginning to put forth their leaves and blossoms so that very soon spring
will be upon us in all it [sic] beauty.
As it is twelve o'clock and I have to get up a [sic] half past six
tomorrow, I must retire to my springy matress [sic].
(p.117)
Paris, April 21st 1857
Again I find myself neglecting my journal from want of inclination
to take the trouble of recording passing events. Each day's routine however is so similar to
the previous that it is scarcely worth recording.
I forgot, however, to record the events of Passion week, which is
the last of Lent. The last three days
were celebrated with great solemnity in all the Catholic churches, in memory of
the crucifixion and resurrection of our Saviour. But on the Champs Elysees there was quite a
different scene. On those days all the
new fashions for the coming season are displayed and this custom is called the
"Promenade de Longchamps".
Several or at least during the last century, there was an old Abbey of
that name near the Bois de Boulogne to which it was fashionable for the
Haut-ton to go and hear the chanting of the Nuns on Good Friday and the days
following, but after the Abbey ceased to exist, the promenade was continued but
for a different purpose, namely, that of displaying the Fashions on the Champs
Elysees.
[p.118]
Last week I went to the Theatres twice. Once to hear the "Question
d'argent", a comedy by Dumas, fils, which has had quite a successful run
during this season. I also went to the
"Italiens" to hear Ristori, the great Italian Trajedienne [sic] in
one of her best pieces "Medea". I was not at all disappointed in her and think
she far surpasses any actress I ever saw.
As I had a French translation of the play I was able to follow her very
well and entered fully into the spirit of the play. She played with great force, but I do not
think she overdid her part. A few days
ago I went with several friends on an excursion to St. Cloud, a town
about six miles from Paris, which contains the Chateau of the Emperor, where he
usually spends the summer. It was a
delightful day and we enjoyed rambling about in the Imperial Park very
much. The trees have put forth their
leaves and the grass was beautifully verdant.
We expected to get into the Palace but were disappointed, as they would
admit no one, because they were expecting the Emperor &c.
(p.119)
Paris, April 30th, 1857
The Grand Duke Constantine, brother of Alexander the Emperor of
Russia, arrived in Paris today on a visit to his majesty Napoleon III. Great preparations have been made to receive
him in a style worthy of a great nation.
The Emperor sent a deputation to meet his Imperial Highness at
Marseilles and accompany him to Paris.
Prince Napoleon, with a military escort went to the Depot to receive him
and conduct him to the Palace of the Tuileries, where the Emperor awaited him
in State. I went to the Place du
Carousel to see the procession pass into the Tuileries. At. about half past five the cortege
arrived. There was a great crowd
assembled to see it. First came an
escort of the imperial guard, then several outriders in the imperial livery,
(green and gold) followed by five court carriages, each having four fine horses
and postillions and another company of the imperial guard brought up the
rear. In the first carriage were the Grand
Duke and Prince Napoleon and the other carriages contained the suite of HIH and
other officials.
[p.120]
As they passed I obtained a view of the Grand Duke, but
they passed so rapidly that I did not have time to observe him very
closely. He is apparently about
twenty-five or thirty years of age and quite handsome. He was dressed in military uniform with
cocked hat and wore several decorations on his breast. Two companies of infantry were drawn up in
the court of the Tuileries to salute him as he entered the palace.
There will doubtless be a series of Balls and festivities as long
as the Grand Duke remains in Paris. The
City of Paris will give him one grand Ball at Hotel de Ville which will
probably be the most brilliant of them all.
There is also to be a grand review of fifty thousand soldiers on the
Champ de Mars next week. I wrote a long letter to Sister today. The weather for the past week has been almost
as cold as winter but I hope it will moderate soon. The days are becoming quite long now, and it
is twilight until nearly eight o'clock.
Rien de plus.
(p.121)
Wednesday, May 6th 1857
Review at Champ de Mars of 50,000.
This morning I went out to the Champ de Mars to witness the grand
review of the French troops ordered for the benefit of the Grand Duke
Constantine, Prince of Russia.
There were more than fifty thousand soldiers on the field composed
of Cavalry, Infantry and Artillery. It
was truly a grand spectacle to see that vast collection of well drilled
soldiers at a single "coup d'oeil".
They were first arranged in files across the field and the Emperor
accompanied by the Grand Duke, the Prince Napoleon, the Marshalls of France,
Pelissier Caurobert etc. and the imperial Cent Guard passed in review. The Empress in an open carriage drawn by four
splendid horses followed. A company of
"Guides" in full uniform preceded and followed her carriage. Afterwards the Emperor took a stand and all
the different regiments passed in review executing various military manuevres
[sic]. The review lasted about three
hours. The crowd of spectators who
surrounded the field, could not have been less than two or three hundred
thousand.
[p.122]
63 rue de Seine, Room No. 9
Paris, June 8th 1857
More than a month has glided away since I last opened this
journal. Time flies wonderfully fast. We have had some very warm weather during the
past month. Yesterday was really a very
hot day. I went with several friends and
spent the day at Versailles. We spent a
couple of hours in going through the magnificent Palace and looking at the
thousands of splendid paintings, which decorate its walls. They are nearly all historical scenes,
battles &c. Some of the largest and
finest paintings are by Horace Vernet.
After leaving the Palace, we walked about in the refreshing shade of the
magnificent Park, listened to a band of delightful music and saw all the
splendid fountains in full play. We also
visited La petite Trianon, which was the favorite residence of Marie
Antoinette. It is very neat little
Palace containing about a dozen rooms in all.
We afterwards visited the grand carriages of State, but did not have
time
(p.123)
to visit the "La Grande Trianon". The carriages are seven in number, all gilded
and beautifully wrought. The largest one
is magnificent beyond description. The
whole of it is richly gilded, even the wheels, and the body contains exquisite
painting; and on the top is a large golden crown &c. It is very large and massive and would
require about a dozen horses to pull it.
This carriage was built by order of Charles X and must have cost four or
five hundred thousand francs. These
carriages are only used on Grand occasions, such as the marriage of the
Emperor, Baptism of the Imperial Prince &c.
We spent the entire day at Versailles but came to Paris to
dine. It was half past nine o'clock P.M.
when we left the Restaurant. It is not
dark now until after nine o'clock, so that the days are very long.
The King of Bavaria has been spending several weeks at the
Tuileries and appears to be delighted with Paris. The Emperor and Empress have moved out to
Saint Cloud for the summer. Comet
expected next Saturday.
[p.124]
Paris, June 18th 1857
Several events have transpired recently to change the monotony of
my usual daily routine, so I will record them.
A few days ago I went with Baily, Griffin and Boisblanc out to St.
Denis to visit the Cathedral containing the tombs of many of the Kings and
Princes of France. St. Denis is a town
six miles north of Paris, and contains about nine thousand inhabitants. The only object of interest to the stranger
is the Cathedral, which was built as it now stands between the years 1250 &
1281 during the reigns of St. Louis and his successor, though a portion of it
is the remains of a church which had been built more than an hundred years
before the reign of Louis VII. The church is built in the Gothic style, with a
very high tower, from the top of which we had a very fine view of the
surrounding country and of Paris in the distance. As it was one of the Fete clays of the
Church, we found mass
(p.125)
about to commence, so we had an opportunity of hearing the organ
which is said to be the largest in France.
Its deep tones sounded like distant thunder, but produced very fine
music. After the Mass was over, we went
into the vaults under the Church to see the tombs. The Kings and their wives &c. were buried
here up to the revolution of 1789 when by a decree of the Convention, their
remains were disinterred and thrown into trenches near by. The tombs still remain and contain on their
tops recumbent statues of the various Kings &c whose remains ought to be
contained within. This church contains a
number of fine paintings, and the painted glass of the windows and skylights
are peculiarly fine.
Among other fine statues is a beautiful one of Marie Antoinette,
wife of Louis XVI, who were both beheaded in 1793. How revolting it is to think
of such a beautiful and innocent woman having been put to death by a fanatical
people, and for no other crime than that of being the wife of an unfortunate
king.
[p.126]
Today, I went with Rhett, Griffin, Pope and Brunner to visit the
Salons of the Hotel de Ville. The Palace
belongs to the City of Paris and is the residence of the Prefect of
the Seine, which position is the same as the Lord Mayor of London. We were conducted through numerous splendid
appartments [sic] magnificently furnished, some of which were more gorgeous
than any at the Tuileries, The ceilings
are all adorned with beautiful frescos and carvings gilded. The walls in most of them are richly gilded,
but some of them are covered with satin damask.
Several splendid balls are given here every winter by the City. At a grand ball given last year in honour of
the Baptism of the Imperial Prince, it is said that more than twenty thousand
candles were used to illuminate the Palace.
Each Saloon contains splendid Chandeliers. There are numerous historical events
connected with this Palace. It was here
that Robespierre attempted to commit suicide a short time before he was
guillotined in 1793.
(p.127)
Hotel du Mont Blanc,
Paris June 19, 1857
The weather is now quite warm though not oppressively hot. It
rained very hard for a while this evening and tomorrow will probably be cool
and clear. The days are now very
long. It is not dark till after nine
o'clock and the sun rises about four o'cl.
We are now in the midst of the Strawberry season, and such large ones I
never saw before. They are about the
size of e pigeon's egg, but there is a smaller variety which is sweeter and of
a more delicate flavor. We also have
cherries, apricots and a variety of vegetables such as peas, beans, Irish potatoes,
artichokes, cauliflowers &c. in great abundance.
A great many persons are now arriving from America. Dr. Junius Williams of Tenn., whom I knew in
Philadelphia, arrived a few days since and has taken rooms at this Hotel, with
his friend Mr. Joseph Dunn of Va. I also
formed the acquaintance of Mr. Mcllwaine and his charming young bride who came
over with them. Mr. M. has recently graduated in Theology and has come to
Europe to pursue his studies. Edward
Leverett is here for the same purpose.
Dr. Leverett his brother cousin is also here.
[p.128]
Paris, Monday June 29th, 1857
About a week since I paid a visit to Mr. Mason's family and
was introduced to Prof. Morse, Inventor of the Electric Telegraph. I was very glad to have had the opportunity
of seeing one whose name will be handed down to posterity as one of the
greatest benefactors of the nineteenth century.
He is quite a plain looking old gentleman and is about sixty years of
age. He is going on one of the vessels
which are to lay the submarine telegraph.
Two Steamers, one American Man of War and the other a British Steamer,
will carry the wire to the middle of the Atlantic where the two ends will be
united and the Niagara will proceed to Halifax and the British steamer will
return to Cork, Ireland, which is the nearest point on this side. Mr. Morse told me that everything was ready
and that they would start about the fifteenth of August when the sea is usually
not disturbed by storms, which would be very disastrous to the completing of
this great enterprise.
(p.129)
If this stupendous undertaking of uniting the old and new world
together succeeds, what a proud epoch it will mark in the history of our age. To have hourly communications between New
York and London seems incredible, mais nous verrons.
I attended a [little –
crossed out] party at Mr. Mason's on last Thursday. I suppose there were about an hundred persons
present, nearly all of whom were Americans.
I went with Drs. Williams and Howard at ten o'clock and we left about
one a.m. I became acquainted with
several ladies and passed the time tolerably pleasantly, tho' I did not
dance. Dr. Williams and myself went up
on Saturday to pay a party call and spent half an hour very pleasantly.
On Saturday, I went with Sauvé & Boisblanc to visit the
Exhibition of Paintings at the Palace of Industry. Only the works of living artists were
admitted, to the best of whom prizes will be awarded at the end of the
exhibition. The collection is very large
and some of them are very fine. Among
the most conspicuous is a large painting representing the Emper-
[p.130]
or introducing Queen Victoria to the Empress at St. Cloud
on her late visit to France. There are
several other large paintings representing the Emperor visiting the scene of
the devastating inundations last year and presenting alms to the sufferers
&c. The Palace of Industry was built for the great Universal Exhibition of
1855 and is still used from time to time for similar exhibitions on a smaller
scale. It is a very large edifice built
of stone and glass. The building forms a
hollow square and in its center is a beautiful garden of rare flowers and
adorned by statuary, fountains &c.
Drs. Weatherly and Rudd. returned a few days since from Russia
where they went after travelling through Italy and Germany. They were much pleased with their tour.
The French elections of members of the Legislative body came off about a week since. They were conducted very quietly and without
any excitement. Several candidates
opposed to the existing Government received majorities in Paris, but as 500
maj. is required the election will have to be reheld - leaving a new majority
of 200. [The last phrase is a bit
unclear.]
(p.131)
Paris, July 12th 1857
On Wednesday last I went in company with Mr. & Mrs. McIlwayne
of Va. , Messrs. Dunn, Williams and the Leveretts to visit the Porcelain
Manufactory at Sevres, which is a small town about six miles from Paris on the
railroad to Versailles. This is the
finest manufactory of porcelain ware in France.
We first visited to [sic] shops and Museum where we saw many superb
specimens of this beautiful ware, comprising dinner and tea sets, urns,
pitchers &c, besides some magnificent paintings and busts, copies of some
of the chef d'oevres of the best artists.
The coloring of these paintings was exquisite. In the Museum were specimens of various pieces
of ware from different nations and ages, thus giving us an opportunity of
comparing them & of seeing how far superior those of the present age are to
the ancient &c. We also, by feeing
the guide, obtained admission into the workshops and saw the "modus
operandi".
[p.132]
The clay is first worked up into a mass, resembling very much the
baker's dough and is then moulded into the required shape, allowed to dry, is
polished and then put into a hot furnace and allowed to bake for about thirty
hours. A second baking is required in
order to glaze it. Those that require
painting are first painted and then burned and repainted &c. It is a very interesting process and well
worthy of a visit.
We afterwards walked through the Park of St. Cloud which is but a
short walk from Sevres. The Empress is
now staying at the Chateau of St. Cloud, while the Emperor has gone to
Plombières to drink the mineral waters.
On Friday we visited the Mint and Museum of Cains, which is situated on
the Quai, quite near my Hotel. We
visited the workshops and saw them stamping medals and coins &c. The machine for coins stamps both sides and
the edge at the same time and stamps fifty-six per minute. The gold coins are the prettiest I ever saw.
(p.133)
In the Museum are to be seen medals commemorating great events in
the History of France from Charlemagne up to the present time. Those of the middle ages are very rude
specimens, while those of the present century are beautifully executed. Here
also may be seen the coins of every nation of the globe that has any. Those from the United States are not fair specimens.
There are also a number of medals from the U.S. of the Presidents, Genls. Scott,
Taylor, and others who received medals for their services. I shall visit this museum again as I did not have
time to examine it thoroughly.
Several acquaintances have recently arrived, from America, Drs. L.
Blackburn & John Calhoun of Natchez and Joe Wade of Louisiana. I was introduced to Dr. Penniston of N.C. a
few days since. He has recently been
elected Professor of Physiology in the New Orleans School of Medicine and has
come over to procure specimens for the Museum &c. Mr. G. Cuthbert and E. Barnwell are also
here.
In the recent re-elections here the opposition candidates were
chosen by large majorities.
[p.134]
No. 9 Hotel du Mont Blanc
Paris, Wednesday July 22nd /57
I have now been in this great city for nearly a year, but have not
yet filled all the pages of this book as I expected to do before that time
expired.
Tomorrow, I expect to commence a tour of several months over the
Continent of Europe, whereby I anticipate a great deal of profit in the way of
useful information &c, though perhaps not a great deal of pleasure as I
know there are innumerable annoyances in traveling. However, I will have pleasant company which
will do a great deal to counteract all those.
Drs. W.H. Bailey of Charleston and J.J. Wade of Louisiana will be
my compagnions de voyage. We will go
first to Switzerland via Geneva and after making a pedestrian tour of several
weeks through that wild mountain scenery, we will go down the Rhine, thence
across to Berlin and down to Dresden & Vienna, thence to Trieste and Venice
and down through
(p.135)
Italy as far as Naples.
Thence back to Paris where I expect to arrive about the first of
December much wiser, though completely disgusted with traveling. I shall take no baggage except a small
leather bag.
I was invited to tea at Mr. Mason's this evening but was too much
worn out with making preparations for my departure to go. Drs. Rhett, Rudd,
Weatherly and Williams all went up.
I heard a few days since of Ex-secretary Marcy's death. [William L. Marcy died on July 4, 1857.] He died very suddenly and while alone in his
room. I suppose he died of disease of
the heart. He was at Balston [sic] Springs,
N.Y. and intended soon to visit Europe.
Our Country has sustained a very great loss. His able diplomatic papers while Secretary of
State during the late administration of Pres. Peirce [sic, i.e. Pierce] showed
him to be a statesman of the first rank.
The weather is now very pleasant being a just medium between hot
and cold. Au revoir.
W. A. McPheeters
[p.136 – blank]
(p.137)
Oxford, England
June 16th 1858
I left London this morning and reached this place in two hours by
railway, distance sixty-three miles. The
country along the route is beautiful and in high state of cultivation. Oxford, the capital of the county of the same
name, is one of the oldest towns In England and contains nearly 30,000
inhabitants. It has long been celebrated
as a seat of learning. There are nineteen
different colleges and six halls situated in different parts of the city, but
all belonging to the same University.
There are about 2,000 students in all.
I visited all of the finest buildings, they being mostly of the gothic
style of architecture. They are built of a soft kind of stone so that all the
older ones have a dilapidated appearance.
Many of them have beautiful pleasure gardens for the recreation of the
students. Today was Commemoration Day,
when the prize essays &c. were read and diplomas given to the
graduates. I arrived too late to see the
ceremonies. The students now have four
months vacation.
[p.138]
Warwick, England June 18th 1858
I left Oxford yesterday morning and came to this place by railway
in two hours, distance 45 miles. Warwick
is an old town containing about 11,000 inhabitants and the only object of much
interest is its old Castle which is one of the best preserved structures of the
feudal times. I was fortunate in meeting
an Englishman at the gate who had obtained a permit to visit the castle and so
I struck up an acquaintance, and went in with him. This Castle has been closed
from public inspection for several weeks in consequence of preparations being
made to receive the Queen who lunched there the day before I arrived on her way
from Stoneleigh Abbey to London. The
fine old castle is kept up in regal splendor and is inhabited by the Earl of
Warwick who is about 38 years of age.
The walls of the large hall are decorated with the armors and portraits
of his ancestors &c. In one room I
saw
(p.139)
a beautiful bust of Proserpine by Powers [undoubtedly Hiram
Powers] which was purchased in Florence about two years ago. The Castle is surrounded by high stone walls
and has very pretty grounds around. The
river Avon runs behind it. The streets
of Warwick were decorated with garlands, festoons and flags in honour of the
Queen. I joined the English gentleman
and went out to visit the ruins of Kenilworth Castle about five miles distant
from Warwick. It was a gloomy cloudy day
and in fact rained quite hard on our return.
The old ruins were very fine and reminded me of some of the old castles
on the Rhine. This fine old castle was
destroyed in Cromwell’s time. We
returned by Leamington which is a modern and very pretty city about two miles
from Warwick. [Written in margin: Leaves from Kenilworth.
(plant matter has been removed from diary.)]
This morning I had a pleasant ride out to Stratford on Avon
distance eight miles and returned this afternoon. The country was beautiful with undulating
scenery.
[p.140]
Stratford is a small village and is only remarkable as the
birthplace and residence of Shakespeare.
I saw the small house and the very room in which he is said to have been
born in 1573. I also visited the Church
where he was buried and saw his tomb &c.
I will go to Birmingham this afternoon by railway, distance about twenty
miles.
Birmingham
June 19th,
1858
This is one of the most extensive manufacturing towns in England
and contains a forest of chimneys which are continually sending forth clouds of
the blackest smoke. This morning I
visited two manufactories, one of chandeliers, gilded bedsteads &c. and the
other of electro-plated articles, bronzes &c. The showrooms were magnificent. I afterwards went out to "Aston
Park" about, three miles distant.
It contains an old edifice called Aston Hall, which has recently been
purchased by the working people of Birmingham
(p.141)
as a place of recreation.
The Hall is used as a place of Exhibition of the various articles
manufactured here. Besides various
gilded, plated and bronzed articles, I saw there some beautiful specimens of
papier maché work manufactured here, also guns, watches, clocks &c. There were also a collection of paintings,
most of which had no great merit, but there were several pieces of very good
statuary and a very fine bust of the Queen.
The Queen with Prince Albert visited this city on Tuesday last to
inaugurate this Hall and Park. Great
preparations were made for her reception.
The houses were decorated with garlands, festoons and flags and the
streets were densely thronged with the populace all eager to get a glimpse of
their beloved monarch. She was most
enthusiastically received with continual acclamations, wherever she
passed. She never met with a more
enthusiastic reception anywhere, which is a little singular when Birmingham has
been noted for its radical democratical opinions. She is the first monarch that ever visited
this city. [this last sentence is
written in the margin.]
[p.142]
Birmingham, June 20th /58
This being Sunday I have remained here quietly to rest. This
morning I went to Church and who should I see in the pulpit by [sic, i.e. but] my old friend Dr. Patton, who has
come up from London with Miss Emily to spend a week with an old friend. Rev.
Mr. James who has completed his fiftieth anniversary as a minister.
This afternoon I went out in the suburbs to call on Miss Patton
and went with them to hear Mr. James preach a sermon to the Young Men. He is still in the full possession of his
faculties and preached a very fine sermon to a very large congregation. His manner is very earnest and pleasing. He has written a book entitled the “Young Man
from Home” or something of that kind.
I met quite unexpectedly with Mr. Perkins, a nephew of Mrs Roy
whom I met in London. He came up from
London yesterday afternoon to spend today here and returns tomorrow. He is a very clever gentleman of American
parents though born in London.
(p.143)
Edinburgh, Scotland,
June 23rd 1858
I left Birmingham day before yesterday morning and went to
"Chatsworth" the princely Estate of the Duke of Devonshire. I went by railway to Rowsley and then went in
an omnibus three miles to the Palace. I
went in with a party of about a dozen. The country around is hilly, presenting
lovely landscapes to the eye. Chatsworth
is the finest private estate I ever saw.
The Mansion is large and built of stone, the rooms have carved panels
and the ceilings contain beautiful frescos.
There is a good collection of paintings and a superb collection of
statuary. The grounds are extensive and
very handsomely laid out containing statuary, fountains &c. Upon the whole, it is one of the lovliest
[sic] places I ever saw. The meadows
around are beautifully green and the village of the tenants is a model in its
way. The houses are all of stone in the
gothic style &c.
[p.144]
We returned to Rowesly and came on to York the same evening,
arriving there about 11 o'clock at night.
At Chatsworth, I met two very agreeable gentlemen from Boston, young
Rufus Choate, son of the distinguished lawyer of that name, and his
brother-in-law Mr. Bell. As they were
coming the same route, we have been together ever since. York, one or probably the oldest town in the
north of England, contains about 50,000 inhabs [sic, i.e. inhabitants]. A portion of
the old Roman wall is still to be seen.
The wall was repaired in 1832 and is now in good condition. The only object of special interest to the
tourist at York is the Cathedral which is one of the finest in England. It is of the Gothic style and I think is
larger than Westminster Abbey.
We left York by the express train at half-past two o'clock and
reached Edinburgh in six hours, distance 208 miles. We passed through New Castle, Berwick, Dunbar
&c. The latter is a small town of
about 5,000 inhabs. The country as we
approached Scotland became more mountainous &c.
(p.145)
Edinburgh is the most picturesquely situated city I ever saw. It is built among hills and in its very centre
is a towering rock on which is a strongly fortified castle. It is divided into the old and new town. In the old town, the houses are very high,
some of them ten or eleven stories and so built on the sides of hills that one
may enter the fourth or fifth story from the street on one side. The houses in
the new town are all of stone and large handsome edifices; the streets are wide
and regularly laid out. Upon the whole I
am better pleased with its arrangement and appearance than any city I have seen.
This morning we went out sight-seeing. Went first to Calton Hill and had a fine view
of the city and surrounding country. This Hill has a large monument to Nelson
and two other smaller ones to Profs. Playfair and Dugald Stewart. A large National Monument was commenced
there, the funds having failed, it remains unfinished and looks like an old
ruin.
Apple leaf from tree at Holyrood planted by Queen Mary. [This last sentence was written in
margin. Plant material has been removed
from volume.]
[p.146]
We here met up with a guide and went with him to Holyrood Palace,
famous as the residence of Mary, Queen of Scots. She married Lord Darnley here and her French
Secretary Brizzer[? so the name seems to be; probably Rizzio is meant] was
murdered here. They show the stains of
his blood on the floor. In the garden is
an apple tree said to have been planted by Queen Mary. I plucked a leaf.
We next went through the old town, passing by the old wooden house
inhabited by John Knox, and went to the Anatomical Museum of the University
which contains many fine specimens. We
next went up to the Castle which commands a fine view and in the Regalia room
we saw the old crown and sceptre worn by the Kings of Scotland &c.
We next visited the Academy of Arts which contains a small but
good collection of paintings and casts of many of the most celebrated pieces
[sic] of statuary. We also visited the
Museum of Antiquities, which contains a number of curiosities and among other things
the pulpit of John Knox &c.
(p.147)
Edinburgh, June 24th
After dinner yesterday evening, we rode around the city and then
went to the Zoological gardens where we heard some good music and saw several
different kinds of shows, slight of hand performances, marionettes, and it
wound up with fireworks comprising the taking of Delhi. It was so light, although it was very cloudy,
that they had to wait till after ten o'clock before it was dark enough for the
fireworks.
It is now nearly ten o'clock and I am writing at the window by
twilight. The sun went down about a
quarter before nine and it is broad daylight at two o'clock a.m.
We went out this morning to Roslin Castle, an old ruin about five
miles out of town. I was rather
disappointed in it. There is a small
chapel near it of very fine architecture &c.
There was a grand procession of the Free Masons here today to lay
the corner stone of a new hall. The
streets were thronged with people, some few of whom wore the Highland costume.
Leaves from Roslin Castle.
. [This last sentence was written
in margin. Plant material has been
removed from volume.]
[p.148]
Edinburgh, June 25th /58
This morning I went to the Royal Infirmary with the hope of seeing
Profs. Symes & Simpson, but was disappointed as neither of them were there
today. I however saw Prof. Laycock and heard him lecture on Hysteria. He has a pleasant face and is about fifty
years of age, but is not a very interesting lecturer. After the lecture, I visited the wards with
him and saw several interesting cases &c.
I afterwards visited the Anatomical Museum of the University which
contains many fine specimens of human and comparative anatomy.
Afterwards I walked up to the summit of Arthur's seat, a peak in
the suburbs of Edinburgh, about 800 feet high.
The view of the surrounding country was lovely, in fact it was as fine a
panoramic view as I ever saw. The wind
blew very hard and tonight I wore my overcoat, it, was so very chilly out of
doors. We leave tomorrow for the highlands
and lakes &c.
(p.149)
Tarbet on Loch Lomond
Monday, June 28th 1858
We left Edinburgh on Saturday by railway and came to a small town
called Bridge of Allan, a few miles from Stirling, intending to come on by
stage coach to the Trosachs, but we found there would not be another coach
until Monday, so we concluded to lie over and were very well contented as it
was a pleasant village in the midst of beautiful scenery. At the Hotel we soon made the acquaintance of
a clever old Scotsman who very kindly acted as Cicerone for us and gave us
considerable information about the locality.
He had spent about two years in America and having been treated with
great civility was doubtless anxious to return the compliment and we found him
very agreeable. His name is Buchanan,
age about 60 years. He went with us over
to Stirling Castle where we had a magnificent view of the Valley of the Forth
and of the distant Highlands. This
picturesque old Castle was formerly the residence of the Kings of Scotland and
two of the James were from there and Douglas was murdered by Edward VI.
[p.150]
Yesterday morning we went to a Scotch Kirk and heard a dry sermon
preached with a nasal twang. Afterwards
we took a long walk through the grounds of Mr. Stirling, a very wealthy
proprietor who holds the same property which his ancestors possessed six
hundred years ago. He has a fine house
and beautiful gardens &c. He is an
M.P. and spends most of his time in London.
After dinner we walked with Mr. Buchanan to the top of Abby Craig,
distant three miles. The views were superb,
taking in the town of Stirling and Castle, the field of Banockburn etc. At nine
o'clock we could still see for twenty miles around. We descended by a circuitous route making our
walk about 7 or 8 miles in all. We took
the coach this morning and came over the Trosachs to Lake Katrine, distance 22
miles. We came up the lake on a small
steamer (which is about ten miles long).
The scenery would have been duly appreciated if the weather had been
fair
(p.151)
but unfortunately we had a very cloudy rainy and disagreeable day.
From the head of Loch Katrine, we took a coach and came over to Loch Lomond in
the rain with the wind blowing, very cold, distance five miles. After waiting about an hour at a small Inn on
the banks of the lake, the boat came along and we came to this place, distance
5 miles, a small village but a good Hotel.
It is situated near the centre of the lake and just opposite "Ben
Lomond" the highest mountain in this vicinity. This loch resembles Lake Lucerne with its
high mountains rising from the waters edge, but the water is not so clear,
being rather black. Rob Roy's cave is
near this point. Tomorrow morning if the
weather is fine we will take the steamer up the lake and return to Balloch and
go on to Glascow [sic] in the afternoon.
It is so cool this evening that we have a fire. 10 ¼ o'clock and not yet dark though very
cloudy.
[p.152]
Belfast, Ireland
July 1st 1858
Day before yesterday morning, we took the steamboat at Tarbet and
went up to the head of Loch Lomond and returned in the afternoon to Balloch and
there took the cars for Glascow. The day
was pleasant and the scenery was lovely.
On the upper part of the lake, it is wild and picturesque, while the
lower part is more fertile with gently sloping hills like lake Geneva.
Glascow is the second commercial city in Great Britain and
contains about 500,000 inhabitants. We
met Mr. Buchanan there and he very kindly [us
– omitted] showed over the city. There
is a fine old Cathedral, the oldest part of which was built in the early part
of the 12th century. There are many
large and beautiful residences in Glascow and a fine park on an eminence which
commands a beautiful view of the surrounding country. There are many large cotton factories &c.
here also.
(p.153)
We left Glascow yesterday afternoon at four o'clock on a steamer
and went to Portrush where we arrived this morning about five. The scenery along the banks of the Clyde was
beautiful and the Channel was not very rough so we had a very pleasant
passage. Portrush is a small town on the
northern coast of Ireland near the Giant's Causeway. After breakfast we hired a one horse
low-backed car and had a pleasant drive to that great curiosity, the Giant's
Causeway, distance about ten miles. I
was rather disappointed at first glance as the columns were not so high as I
expected to see, but when I went nearer I was very well satisfied. The basaltic crystalized rocks have the
appearance of great numbers of piles driven closely together. They are of various shapes from triagonal to
octagonal but most of them are pentagonal or sexagonal. There are also high cliffs of about 300 [the
number might be 200] feet of the same formation but not so distinct. On our return we stopped at the ruins of the
Dunecluse Castle, very picturesque.
[p.154]
We came to Belfast this afternoon by railway, distance about 60
miles, traversing a well cultivated tract of country. Messrs Bell & Choate concluded to come
over to Ireland and are still with me.
Belfast is a commercial & manufacturing city of considerable
importance and contains several very fine public buildings, Custom House, Court
House &c. We leave in the morning
for Dublin.
I arrived in Dublin about 12 o'clock on Friday, the 2nd July in
five hours from Belfast, distance about 100 miles. Some parts of the country were quite fertile
and well cultivated, but other parts were nothing but peat bogs. Dublin is a large city but not as striking as
Edinburgh. I went out to Lanford Cottage
and found Mr. and Mrs. Nugent and spent the day with them. It was very pleasant to meet them in this
distant land. On Saturday, I went to the
Hospital and made arrangements for entering as a student.
Hether [sic] from the Gap of Dunloe[?], Kilarney. [This last sentence was written in
margin. Plant material has been removed
from volume.]
(p.155)
Royal Victoria Hotel
Lakes of Kilarney, Ireland
July 6th 1858
I concluded to run down and see the famous lakes of Kilarney
before setting to work in Dublin and have come down with Messrs. Bell and
Choate yesterday. We came all the way by
rail in about seven hours, distance about 180 miles. Some parts of the route were very pretty with
mountains in the distance and others were nothing but peat bogs &c. There are three lakes, the upper, middle and
lower; the latter is the largest and about twelve miles in length. A party of five of us started out this
morning about nine and rode in a carriage about thirteen miles to the gap of
Dunloe and then walked through the gap, which is very wild and picturesque,
five miles to the head of the upper lake where a boat was sent to meet us. About half a dozen girls followed us all the
way begging us to buy their goats milk &c and troubled us considerably.
Ivy leaves from Ross Castle, Kilarney, July 7th
/58. [This last sentence was written in
margin. Plant material has been removed
from volume.]
[p.156]
The weather was quite showery all day, but I think the occasional
glimpses of sunshine added to the beauty of the scenery. The scenery is varied and very fine - mountains
rise up majestically on all sides from the lakes and form magnificent
landscapes. We had a pleasant excursion
and were well repaid for our trouble. We
lunched on a small island on a rock where the Prince of Wales lunched when he visited
the lake last year. Much pleased with my
excursion to the lakes of Kilarney where lived “Kate Kearney.”
We heard today that the second attempt to lay the trans-Atlantic
telegraph had failed, the cable having broken after laying about 200
miles. Sorry to hear it.
We expect to leave tomorrow, will run down to Cork and Queenstown
and return next day to Dublin where I expect to remain as Student in the
Rotunda Hospital for three months. -
Finis –
4th July dined with Mr. Nugent and drank to the Star Spangled
Banner. [This last sentence was written
in margin.]
[the followingaddendum is written on a separate sheet of paper and
laid into the journal.]
Addendum to Journal
Before leaving Kilarney on Wednesday, the 7th July, we took a
jaunting car and went to Muckross Abbey, a fine old ruin on the lake
shore. This Abbey was founded in the
early part of the 14th century, and was inhabited by Monks. It has been in ruins about two hundred
years. We afterwards rode through the
beautiful and extensive grounds of Mr. Herbert, M.P., and went around the
middle lake to the "Torc Falls" which are small but quite
pretty. The water falls over slanting
rocks forming a succession of small cascades. We returned by a different route
and visited Ross Castle, another grand ruin covered with ivy. It is situated on the border of the lake and
the tower commands of [sic, a is
meant] beautiful view. The grounds
around are very handsome.
[new page]
We returned to the Hotel through Lord Ross' desmene having ridden
in all about 25 miles. We left at 5 P.M.
o'clock and arrived in Cork about 8 o'clock P.M. Cork is an uninteresting city containing
about 180,000 inhabitants and is situated on the River Lee about ten miles
above Queenstown, formerly called the Cove of Cork.
On Thursday morning, we took a steamer and went down to
Queenstown. The scenery along this river
is very beautiful and the bay at Queenstown is not unlike New York Bay. We went out to the U.S. Frigate Niagara,
which was at anchor several miles out in the bay. I had a note to Dr. Hay, Assistant Surgeon,
and was very cordially received by the Officers. They invited us to dine with them, and Choate
& myself spent several hours on board
[new page]
delightfully. Lieut. Girardi[?]
of Lee presented us each with a specimen of the Atlantic cable which they hope
to lay successfully at the next trial.
The Niagara is now already to set sail again and is only waiting for the
Agamemnon to return, but she has not yet been heard from.
We were introduced to Captain Hudson who gave us a cordial
greeting.
In the late attempt to lay
the submarine telegraphic cable, the electric current continued to pass freely
between the two ships until the Niagara had run 109 miles and paid out about
145 miles of cable when the current suddenly ceased and it not being resumed
after several hours, the cable was cut according to agreement and she returned
to Cork. When the electric current
ceased, everything was going on well.
The weather was good and sea smooth so they cannot account for the
accident.
[last page]
The Niagara is the largest steam frigate in the United States Navy
and carries twelve large guns. Her full
complement of Officers, crew and Marines is eight hundred, but she has only
about 350 on board at present and the cable takes up so much room that extra
places had to be provided for stowing away coals which take up a large space
and show off the vessel to poor advantage.
I returned to Dublin last evening and have taken up my quarters in
the Hospital this morning. Messrs. Bell
& Choate left me this morning for a tour through Wales and thence to the
Continent
W. A. McPheeters
Rotunda Hospital
Dublin July 10th 1858
[notes written on last fly leaf:]
Arbutus leaves from an island in the lower Lake Kilarney, July 7th
1858.
Ivy leaves from Muckross Abbey built in 1440. Kilarney, July 7th 1858.
W.A. McPheeters.
[note: plant material has been removed from diary]
Glued to the fly leaf is a prescription form. On one side is printed
Prescription Department of Branch Drug Store,
cor. Main & Pearl Sts., Natchez, Miss., Kirkpatrick & Rapp,
Proprietors.
On the reverse side is printed
Dr. W.A. McPheeters, office and residence,
621 Washington St., Natchez Miss., office hours 9 to 10 a.m., 4 to 6 p.m. Rx for ___________