The Winterthur Library

 The Joseph Downs Collection of Manuscripts and Printed Ephemera

 

 

OVERVIEW OF THE COLLECTION

 

                                               

Title:               Engravings of British and French Fashions        

Dates:             [ca.1740-ca.1795]

Call No.:         Col. 463

Acc. No.:         68x2

Quantity:        193 items (2 boxes)

Location:        2 B 5

 

 

 

SCOPE AND CONTENT

 

This collection contains approximately 193 scrapbook pages of black and white and colored engravings of eighteenth century British and French fashions.  Many items were clipped from magazines and books. Also included are advertisements and newspaper articles on fashion, trials, and executions. Watchpapers, trade cards, and original sketches also appear.

 

Items depicted include the clothing of such people as maids, footmen, peddlers, sailors, prisoners, and clerics, as well as the middle and upper classes.  Also shown are accessories, including hats, gloves, muffs, fans, and parasols.  Some views of wigs and hair styles are also present.  Newspaper descriptions note a paon gown, tunbridge gowns, spa gowns, and party-colored gowns. In newspaper articles, various types of head wear are mentioned: vestris, windsors, and summer caps.

 

A number of the illustrations relate to books or plays, including Sir Charles Grandison, Adventures of Peregrine Pickle, and History of Miss Betsy Thoughtless.  A few illustrations depict actors or actresses in particular roles, such as Mr. Palmer as Careless and Mrs. Gardiner as Lady Plyant.  A small group consists of design drawings meant to be used by artists and craftsmen.

 

Although fashions are found in all the prints, few were intended to be fashion plates.  Rather, they illustrate sick rooms or death beds, weddings, dances, parties, a schoolroom, homes, church services, theater attendance, sports, and other topics.  Several illustrate crimes or the execution of criminals.  There are newspaper articles on these topics as well.

 

           

 

ORGANIZATION

           

The prints are in accession number order. 

 

The index is divided into four sections:

 

I.                    Artists, engravers, printers, and publishers, and magazines for which illustrations were done.

II.                 Titles of prints (other than names of portraits), and  titles of books from which illustrations were taken.

III.               Portrait engravings.

IV.              Other people and subjects mentioned in texts.

 

Not all the prints had titles, and a few titles were added by the scrapbook keeper.  The subject/name index is not comprehensive; it indexes some of the people and subjects mentioned in  the newspaper articles and the topics of a few of the prints.

 

 

PROVENANCE

           

Transferred from Printed Books and Periodicals, which had purchased the material from G.W. Walford.

 

 

ACCESS POINTS

 

Topics:

            Hairstyles - 18th century.

            Fashion - England - 18th century.

            Clothing and dress - 18th century.

            Dress accessories.

            Illustration of books.

            Trials - England - 18th century.

            Fashion drawing.

            Execution and executioners - England - 18th century

            Fashion - France - 18th century - Pictorial works.

            Costume - History - 18th century.

            Hats - Pictorial works - 18th century.

            Fashion in literature.

Theater – England.

 

England – Social life and customs – 18th century.

           

Scrapbooks.

            Trade cards.

            Engravings.

            Engravers. 

           

 

 

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION

 

Location: 2 B 5

 

Index to collection:

 

I. Artists, engravers, printers, publishers, magazines:

 

Allen & Co.   .187

Angus   .149, .153, .168

Angus, W. .136                          

Asperne, J.    .43

Audinet  .76                              

Audran .118                             

 

Bell, J.  .76, .133                            

Bells British Theatre    .62-64, .68     

Bennet, T.   .47

Bickerstaff, Isaac   .56

Bickham, G., Jr.  .176

Birrell   .50

Bowles, Carington .7, .11, .19, .27, .133 (reverse), .146

Bowles, John .15

Bowles, John, & Son .133 (reverse)               

Boydell   .160

Brandoin .65-67                         

Buckland   .44

Bunbury, H.   .69, .74                     

Burder   .44

Burney .133                         

 

Caldwell .65        

Canterbury Newsletter   .122                    

Chamber's Book of Days .37

Chappe, L’Abbe .28

Clerk, T.  .53, .72, .86, .130, .132, .186                                            

Cole, B.  .52, .93, .110   

Collet, John   .146

Collyer   .186                   

Cook .5

Cook, T.  .160

Cooper, M.   .175

Cooper, R.  .92                               

Copland, H. .139                        

Corbett, C. (book publisher) .38

Corbould  .133                           

Cruikshank, G.  .143, .187                     

 

Davison, W.   .181, .182, .184

Debrett   1. .87   

De Wilde  .76

Dighton, R. .26, .144

Dodd  .18, .62, .87, .117

 

 

Eastgate, J.  .75

Edwards .10

European Magazine   .43                      

Evans, I.  .69

 

Fielding, I. .87

Fielding & Walker  .126

 

Gallery of Fashion   .30-.33

Gent's Mag [Gentlemen’s Magazine]  .53

Goodnight  .104

Gravelot, H. .15, .20, .164, .165, .174

Green, B. .59

Gribelin, S. .133 (reverse), .135-138

Grignion   .66, .105, .177

Grignion, C. .38, .174

 

Hall   .57

Hamilton, A. (Jr.)  .4, .128

Harrison & Co.   .50, .61, .108, .129, .148, .167, .168

Hayman, F. .38, .174

Heath   .39, .50, .105, .109, .129, .133, .151, .167, .170

Heideloff, N. .30-33

Henriquez, B.L.   .172

Hertochs((?)   .47

Hogarth  .46, .53, .72, .80, .86, .90, .130, .132, .141, .160, .186

Hogarth, W.   [.55,] .89  

Hogarth, Wm.  .106

Hogg, Alexr.  .121

Hulett, T. .60, .170, .176

 

I., A.M.  .141, .183(? not sure is this is A.M.I.)

I., J.  .141

 

Jollain   .172

June, J. .14, .178

L., A.  (London)   .45

Lady's Magazine .2, .5, .20, .36, .158

Langlois   .50

Laurie & Whittle .25, .144

le Clerc, S.  .58

Le Mire, N.   .164

Leney .133

Lodge, J. .117

Lon Mag [London Magazine?] .17

London Magazine   .115

Lowndes, T., & Partners  .62, .68

 

Mendoza, Humphreys  .91

Millar, A. .60, .170, .176

Mills, J.? .89

Morland, George   .51

Müller, J. S.  .6, .24

Myers .18

 

Neagle .133

 

Oxford Magazine   .131

 

Penny London Post or Morning Advertiser   .112

Perry, R.  .142

Pyet, D. B. .90, .130

Pyle, R. .12

 

Rawle    .43

Reading, B. .10

Reading, D.  .188

Roberts   .188

Roberts, J.  .62-.64, .68, .180

Robinson, G.    .2

Rothwell .59

Ryder   .46

 

Sand[illegible]y, Paul   .49

Sayer, Robt.  .12, .14, .66, .140

Scholey, Robert  .53, .72, .86

Sewell, J.  .69, .74, .87

Sharp   .169

Skelton    .46

Smirke .133

Smith, J. T.  .40

Smith, T. .117

Spooner, C.  .12

Stothard   [.20,] .39, [.42], .50, .105, .108, .109, .129, .148, .149, .151, .153, .167, .168, .170, .177, .186, .191

 

Taylor, I.  .68

Taylor, Isaac   .171, .173

Thornthwaite .62-64, .68

Thornton .121

Truchy, L. .15

Tukey .87

 

Valois  .104

Van Assen .59, .134

Van Assen, A.  .100

VanderGucht, M.   .47

Vangrier(?)   .138

Vangro .104

Vivares  .53

 

Wale, S. .59, .173

Walker   .39, .62, .74, .108, .148, .149, .153, .180, .191

Walker, I. .114

Wheatley .133

Wheatley, F. .136

Whittle (of Laurie & Whittle) .25

Woodward   .187

 

 

II. Titles of prints (other than names of portraits); titles of books:

 [note: not all prints have titles; some titles were penciled in]

 

Alarms of Matrimony, The   .54

Ambassadeurs de Siam   .58

Antiquated Beauty, The   .23

Art of Boxing, The   .91

Astley's Royal Grove & Amphiteatre Riding House, Westminster Bridge  .71                            

 

Bachelors Fare, or Bread and Chesse with Kisses

Bassin quarre du Rocher a Chantilly, le   .51

Bassin rond en face des Allees du Pavillon de Mans et des Cascades, le   .50

Beaux Disaster, The   .183

Beaux Stratagem: [Barrymore and Wathen] as Scrubb & Archer   .76

Betsy Thoughtless   .50, .129, .149

Brandenburgh House, Middlesex  .75      

British Theatre   .133            

Brothers, The, Act. I, scene v   .10

Burial of the Dead   .52

 

Canvassing for Votes   .132

Chairing, The   .130

Christmas Gambols (1785)   .61

Citizens Fete Champetre, The  .102

Clandestine Marriage   .133

Clarissa   .186

Col. Nesbit presenting a wedding portion to the old peasant for his daughter   .177

Comb Bank, in Kent, the seat of Lord Fredk. Campbell   .136

Connoisseur, Le   .159

Conquest of Mexico   .72

Costume of sailors, 18th century  .10

Country Inn Yard   .186

[see also .187]

Country Lasses   .133

Country Maid   .105, .153

Curate Going on Duty   .184

 

David Simple   .105, .149, .153

Deformed head in the Pillory, A   .116

Distresst Poet, The   .157

 

Election Entertainment   .130

Entrance into the Pantheon, Oxford Street, from the Music Gallery   .73

 

Fair, The   .99

False Marriage, The   .148

Fashions in 1794   .8

Fat Pluralist and his Lean Curates, The   .184

Female Quixote   .129

Fleet Wedding, A   .178

[see also .175]

 

Gallantee Show   .100

Gamesters, The    .133

Garden Scene at Cowley, the resident at the late Thos. Rich, esqr.   .46

Grandison   .148, .167, .168, .191

 

Habit of a Woman of Wotiac in Siberia in 1768   .28

Honey-moon, The   .166

Hoop-Petticoat, The   .38

Hot Peas   .40

Humorous Scene at the Regatta (1775)   .152

 

Irish Elopement, The   .20

 

Jessamy   .50

Jew purchasing old Clothes   .182

John Hartley, Jas. Deane, and their accomplices in the house of Mr. Clewin …, 1773  .150

 

Kensington Gardens (1751)   .49

Knives to Grind   .41

 

Lady in an Undress for February 1777, A  .17

Lanferd Hall   .114

London Tea Garden, A    .51

Long Farewell, The   .158

 

Made. Simonet in the character of the Princess in … Ninnette a la Cour (1781)   .62, .68

Madle. Heinel in the character of a Sultana   .67

Maids Buy a Mop   .41

Mail Robbed near Colnbrook by Jno. Hawkins and Geo. Simpson   .104

Matrimony   .52

Masquerade ticket   .89

Master Lavender qualifying himself for the Army   .146
Me and My Wife and Daughter   .181

[Midas?]   .171

Military Distress   .107

Milliners Shop, The   .188

Miss Blandy at the place of Execution near Oxford, attended by the Revd. Mr. Swinton   .110

Monsr. Vestris Junr. in the favorite Ballet (call’d)  Les Amans Surpris   .64

Mount Street Merriment, or the Triumph of Justice    .59

Mr. Booth in the character of Lord Froth (1777)   .188 (reverse)

Mr. Fiervilles Ball   .95

Mr. Palmer and Mrs. Gardiner in the characters of Careless and Lady Plyant (1777)   .62

Mrs. Abington in the character of Lady Betty Modish   .68

Mrs. Brownrigg in the Cell, Newgate   .111

Mrs. Yates in the character of Calista    .63

 

Nappy Lad, or Toping Buck, The (1774)   .19

New Book of Heads, A  (1794)  .144

New Book of Ornaments Useful to All Artists, A   .133 (reverse)

New Invented Ladies Muffs [three styles of muffs]  .8

 

Old Political Macaroni with this wise Family at Breakfast, The   .152

Old Q-uiz, the old Goat of Piccadilly (1796)  .26

Opera Girl of Paris in a Full Dress, An   .65

Opera Girl of Paris in a Morning Dress, An   .65

Opera Girl of Paris in the character of Flora, An   .66

Opera Girl of Paris in the character of Diana, An   .66

 

Parks, The   .50

Peace   .12

Peregrine Pickle   .109, .149, .151, .170

Perspective View of Tunbridge Wells Walks, A   .180

Polling, The    .132

Pride and Exaltation in a Sedan Chair  .187

Princess Royal as she apear’d at court on the Queen’s birth-day   .36

Prisoners stopping at the Baptist’s Head ... on … removal from the New-Prison to Newgate   .117

Proud .67

Publick Baptism   .52

 

Rambler   .39

Ranelagh   .59

Red Ribband bestowed instead of a halter, The [Lord North penciled in]  .131

Representation of the Surprising Performances of Mr. Price   .94

Review, The   .7

Rival Friends, The   .3

Rival Nymphs, The: or the Merry Swain (1740)   .176

Running Footman, The   .37

 

Sailors Fleet Wedding Entertainment, The (1747)  .175 

[see also .178]

Shop in Covent Garden, A   .191

Signora Baccelli in the Ballet (call’d) Les Amains Surpris   .64

Sleeping Congregation   .53

Smugglers torturing Chater the Custom house Officer, The  .104

Soho Masquerade Conference between the Premier and his Journeyman   .85

Staymakers Address to the Ladies, The/l’Addresse du faiseur de Corps au Dames   .27

Stocks, The   .106

Strolling Players   .86

Studious Fair, The  .11

Sunday Evening   .162

 

Theatre in the Days of Hogarth, The   .80

Theodosius   .54

Tom Jones   .108, .177

Treacherous Guardian  .158

 

Unlucky Glance, The   .192

View of Ranelagh   .59

View of the Ball at St. James’s on her Majesty’s Birth Night (1782)  .87

View of the Theatre at Wynnstay   .69

Village Wedding, The   .177

Virtuous Orphan   .153

Visitation of the Sick   .52

 

Way to Keep Him, The   .133

Westminster Hall, with its Shops   .193

What Brought St. Vistos’ ill-got wealth to waste?   .174

Wm. Guest (condemned for high treason) drawn on a sledge to Tyburn   .117

Wynnstay   .69

Wynnstay Theatre (1785)   .74

 

Zulime a sa Toillette a Paris   .172

 

III. Portrait engravings:

 

Abington, Mrs.  .68                    

Ancaster, Dutchess of  .140            

Aram, Eugene .121                       

 

Baccelli, Signora .64                    

Baronet, the brilliant  .4

Barrington, George   .120

Barrymore, The Earl of  .76   

Bellamy, Mrs.   .176

Blandy, Mary   .110        

Booth, Mr.   .188 (reverse)  

Bretterg, Catherine (Mrs.) (1777)   .44

Broughton, John  .92       

Brownrigg, Elizabeth   .111              

Butterfield, Jane .2

 

Charlotte Augusta, Princess Royal of England .5, .36

 

Dignam, David Brown   .120

Dodd, [William,] Rev. Dr.  .128

Donnellan, John (Captain) (1781)   .114

 

Farinelli, Carlo Broschi .3

Ferrers, Earl (Laurence Shirley)   .118

 

Gardiner, Mrs. .62

Guest, Wm .117

 

Harrington, Earl of   .43

Hawke, William (in Newgate prison)   .119

Heinel, Madle   .67

Holman, Mr.   .42

 

Malcolm, Sarah   .113

Mapp, .143

 

O'Brien, Nelly  .140

 

Palmer, Mr. .62

Perreau, D[aniel]   .115 (reverse side)

Perreau, Robert   .115

 

Ray, Martha  .126

Rich, Thos., and family  (1799)   .46

Rudd, Mrs.   .115 (reverse side)

 

S-lt, Miss  .4

Shirley, Laurence (Earl Ferrers)  .118

Simonet, Made.  .62, .68

Simoney, Dr.   .128

Stanhope, Maria (Lady) (1776)  .17

St. Denis, Ch. de, Seigneur de St. Euvremond   .181

 

T-rr-t, Mrs.  .4

Tilbury, Tom  .4

Tunbridge Wells   .180

 

Vestris, Monsr., Jr.  .64

 

Warren, Mrs.   .42

Wathen, Captain .76

 

Yates, Mrs.  .63

 

 

 

IV. Other people and subjects mentioned in texts [this list is not comprehensive]:

 

Apprentices   .77

 

Bacon, Thos. .142                       

Balls and dancing   .95, .96, .97

 

Campbell, Lord Fredk.    .136              

Cockfighting   .90

Covent Garden   .72

 

Debtors  .108

D'Etanssane .136                        

Drury-Lane   .81, .82

 

Embroidery work   .105

 

Fashion articles from newspapers, 1780s   .35

Fellowes, Barbara (Mrs.)  .142

Funerals   .142

 

Glew, Mark   .107

 

Hay-Market [theater]  .70

Heidegger, John James .57

Hogarth, Mary & Ann (frocks, textiles) .141

Holts, Mrs. (textiles, food, etc.) .141

Horseback riding   .94, .101

 

Inn yards   .186, .187

Italian cities – vignettes  .141

 

Kraus, Widow   .81

 

Lace makers   .189

Lamp lighting  .182

Lowe, Mr.   .93

 

Malcolm, Sarah   .112, .113

Marriages   .148

Millinery   .188, .189, .191

Music   .93

 

P., W. (Col.)  .136

Pantheon .73

Parsons, Colonel  .133

Price, Mr.  .94, .101

 

Queen’s birthday   .88

 

Ranelagh masquerade   .89

 

Sadler’s Wells   .78

Scawen, W.  .2

Servants   .145

Sheridan, Mr.   .83

Stokes, Mr.  .165 (reverse)

Swordmanship   .105

Tailor shop   .190

Tatler, Feb. 25-28, 1709   .56

Theaters, various   .84, .86

Trade cards   .141

 

Vaux-Hall Gardens .93

 

Wargrave Theatricals   .76

Watch makers   .190

Watchpapers   .140

West, Mr.  .142

Whitefield, George   .161

Wynne, Sir W. W.   .69

see also Wynnstay Theatre

Wynnstay Theatre   .69, .74 

see also Wynne, Sir W. W.