The
The Joseph Downs Collection of Manuscripts and
Printed Ephemera
Henry
Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Winterthur, DE 19735
302-888-4600 or
800-448-3883
OVERVIEW OF THE COLLECTION
Title: Swatch Book Collection
Dates: ca.1700-ca.1925
Call No.:
Acc. No.: [various
– see detailed description]
Quantity: 6 linear feet
Location: 39 A-C
SCOPE AND CONTENT
This artificial and still open collection
includes both bound and unbound items containing textile fabric samples.
The collection contains swatch books
representing a multiplicity of historical backgrounds and purposes. For instance, some books were created as
salesmen's sample books; others as a record of the dyeing process. Still others were assembled by young women as
a record of their own needlework or of local textiles.
As more relevant
items are acquired, the swatch book collection continues to expand. However, it does not include textile fabric
swatches that already belong to another identifiable collection. Nor does the collection contain bound volumes
with some swatches that are incidental to the primary reason for the creation
of said volume. Additional materials may
be located by searching the catalog using the terms Textile fabrics – Sample
books or Textile fabrics – Specimens.
Ads and trade cards related to the textile trade are filed in
Collections 214 and 9. (One trade card,
61x6, includes some lace samples.)
ORGANIZATION
The swatch books
are shelved in accession number order, except that the oversized materials are
shelved below the others. The finding
aid lists the items in accession number order.
Each volume is
also individually cataloged in the on-line catalog.
LANGUAGE OF MATERIALS
Most of the
materials are in English.
RESTRICTIONS ON ACCESS
Collection is
open to the public. Copyright
restrictions may apply.
PROVENANCE
Gifts and
purchases from various sources.
ACCESS POINTS (for collection as a whole,
not for the individual accessions, each of which also has its own entry in the
on-line catalog)
Topics:
Textile
fabrics – Sample books.
Yarn – Sample books.
Needlework – Sample books.
Ribbons.
Weavers.
Textile workers.
Dyers.
Swatch books.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION
Location: 39 A-C
58
x 34
Weaving instruction manual, in French,
ca. 1829.
This manual consists of diagrams and
written instructions for setting up looms in order to weave a wide variety of
patterns upon many different textiles.
Many sets of instructions are accompanied by sample swatches of the
finished textile. Certain headings
include "
62
x 31.1-.4
Timmich, Georg Friedrich. Farbe
Buch.
Dyeing book, 1754-1758.
Georg Friedrich Timmich was a dyer in a
German-speaking area during the mid-eighteenth century.
The volume (62x31.1) and the accompanying
loose sheets (62 x 31.2-.4) compose Georg Timmich's collection of dye recipes
for yarn and textile fabrics. Many of
the recipes are accompanied by a swatch dyed to show the results. Toward the back of the volume, entries are
made in a different handwriting of a more recent, probably 19th-century, style
and spelling. The first page contains an
ornate calligraphic verse "Alles mit Gott, So hat es keine Noth. Soli Deo Gloria" and the date 1754. Text in old German script.
62
x 32
Codecasa, Benedict. Muster Karte
Von Iermesut, Scalli, Cettari, Cutni und Scamalagia nach Ostindischer Art.
Viennese swatch book.
Benedict Codecasa was an authorized silk
manufacturer in
This volume consists of twelve panels of
22 numbered swatches of colored woven silk and cotton. On the first and fourteenth panels are copies
of a trade label in German summarizing Codecasa's business and giving his
address. Identified by Florence Montgomery
(Textiles in America, 1650-1870) as
"a late eighteenth-century sample book of 272 swatches of striped silk and
cotton materials patterned after Indian goods." Labels on the cover and
slipcase indicate that this was the second in a series of sample books.
65
x 662.1-.7
Yarn sample books, 1847-1854(?)
This group consists of seven small paper
bound volumes containing recipes for dyeing yarn, most of which are accompanied
by a yarn sample in the finished color.
Four of the volumes have printed covers indicating that they were
manufactured in
65
x 693
Japanese textile sample book, 1840-1900.
This volume begins with one page of
Japanese calligraphy, which has been translated as reading, "Collection of
samples of thick- striped cloths which is called 'Ome-jima';" or
"Collection of samples of thick-striped 'Ome-jima.'" This first
page is followed by fifteen pages of approximately 350 wool fabric samples.
65
x 695.1
This leather-bound book consists of
approximately 500 swatches of various textile fabrics, including fine examples
of "camelots," "sattins," "tabourets,"
"fleurets," "callemandres," "camelottines,"
"harlequins," and "grandines." Some facing pages contain manuscript notes in
French, which provide specific names for the corresponding fabrics. A faint manuscript inscription on the front
free endpaper indicates a British origin, reading, "
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.2
91 pages contain some 2,000 numbered
swatches of variously colored and patterned worsteds, described as
"sattins" and as "satinets." A few titles in German appear, but the
numeration is written in an English hand.
The original top board contains a torn paper label that reads "Copy of a Pattn. Book Sent to C O &
..." The original back board has
"ICH" stamped upon it in gold.
Both boards are preserved separately from the pattern book.
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.3
Consists of 685 small, numbered swatches
of variously colored worsteds, including callimancoes, camlettes, taboratts,
and fine lastings or everlastings.
Contains a list of prices and one of such addressees as D. Callaghan,
chez Louis Preiswerk a Bale (
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.4
Cover title: "Counter, 1788"
94 pages consist of some 4,240 small
swatches of variously colored and patterned worsteds. Notes between groups of swatches indicate
that this volume was originally a record of fabrics ordered by different
customers during the course of one year.
Examples of such notes read "order DF sent 18 Jany. 1788" and
order HVV sent 15 Novr. 1788."
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.5
This book includes some 850 small,
numbered swatches of variously colored and patterned worsteds. The inside cover bears the inscription
"Booth and Theobald,
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.6
89 pages present some 1,500 small,
numbered swatches of various worsteds.
Two pages include notes on the specific kinds of textile, such as
"camelots" and "clouded calles (callemandres?)."
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 696
Ribbon sample book, ca. 1826-1864.
This volume contains 345 of originally
354 samples of woven ribbons, each measuring 6.5 x 15.5 cm. Notes on the first page read
"French. Recd. from Mr. Dresser,
65
x 697 (flat on shelf)
Printed challis sample book, ca. 1830
(perhaps from
This book consists of 304 "tissus
d'habillement," colorful swatches of challis, a soft wool or wool-cotton
cloth, in varying sizes up to 25 x 18 cm.
The swatches are included in no apparent order. The inside front cover contains a printed
label from a French papermaker/blank book binder in
See under Index tab for additional
comments about this volume.
65
x 698
This book consists of 432 samples,
divided into 16 panels of 27 numbered swatches.
The textiles include various kinds of
65
x 699
This volume originally consisted of 12
panels of 12 numbered swatches each (three are presently missing). The textiles represent a variety of
65
x 700
This volume contains 30 panels of
numbered swatches, most with 14 swatches per panel. The textiles are various kinds of
66
x 141
Rowan, Archibald Hamilton.
Sample book of designs for printed
cotton, ca. 1795-1799.
Archibald Hamilton Rowan, a member of the
Society of United Irishmen, was exiled from
This book consists of over 140 numbered
block impressions on paper, many brightened by watercolors, that provide
examples of eighteenth-century calico-printed textiles. Many of the designs bear a resemblance to
contemporary English work. Six of the
patterns have dark plum backgrounds, similar to an English dark-ground style
for ladies' dresses. Three- or four-inch
borders of a rich, dense style harmonize with more widely spaced flowers in
other patterns, suggesting their intended use as furnishing chintzes. Patterns with sprigs were used for
dress-goods. Small, stylized figures
appearing in fields of several patterns are typical of contemporary shawl
chintzes. Other designs include geometrical
and stylized striped lining materials.
Although a note on the front wrapper indicates that these are wallpaper
designs, Rowan's career suggests otherwise.
The papers on which the patterns are printed bear the watermark of the
Gilpin paper mills, also located along the
A map that shows the location of Rowan's
mill is available in the collection.
Publications:
Kiefer,
Kathleen, “Archibald Hamilton Rowan’s Pattern Book: A Preliminary Technical and
Stylistic Analysis,” (student paper), 1994.
(filed with this finding aid)
69 x 78
(flat on shelf)
Print sample
book, 1795.
A sample book
containing colored woodblock prints.
Although all but one of the samples are printed on paper, Florence
Montgomery believed the patterns were for textiles, not for wallpaper. The one sample which is not on paper is
indeed printed on fabric; furthermore, some of the patterns do give the
illusion of including lace or broderie anglaise. Although most of the patterns were designed
to be borders, a few could be overall designs.
The smaller patterns may have been intended to be borders for
handkerchiefs or neckerchiefs. The
patterns are numbered but are not in consecutive order. The country of origin is not known, but the
samples are possibly from
The samples are
mounted on dark paper. If there were a
back cover, it is now missing. Some of
the samples are loose, but none are completely detached. The string binding the pages together may be
new. (Trex 3255)
69
x 210 (flat on shelf)
Gibard, G. Cours
de Fabrique par Theorie.
French textbook with illustrations and
fabric swatches, 1829.
This volume includes approximately 185
pages of handwritten text, dealing primarily with the fabrication of silk
cloths. It consists of diagrams and written
instructions for setting up looms in order to weave a wide variety of textile
fabrics. Weaving instructions correspond
to 59 actual fabric swatches. Most
swatches are discussed, in increasing complexity, in terms of
"remettage," "ourdissage,"(warping)
"lissage,"(glossing) and "armure"(loom patterns). Text in French.
69
x 211 (flat on shelf)
Textile sample book, 1858-1859.
This book contains a brief title page
reading only "Colloring Book."
This is followed by approximately 200 sample swatches of printed cotton
textile fabrics. The swatches are pasted
onto the versos, while the rectos contain pieces, dates and color names,
apparently recording the printing of the various patterns. Colors include black, red, brown, lilac,
drab, chocolate. The names repeated
throughout the volume indicate a New England origin, probably
69
x 216
Swatch book, ca. 1800-1825.
This book contains about 350 remarkable
samples of a wide variety of textile fabrics.
Written remarks next to each swatch seem to indicate the producer and
the available supply of fabric, perhaps
establishing the book as an inventory or order book for a dry goods store. What are assumed to be producers appear as
"W. & C.," "S. & N.A.," or "R.R. &
Co.," etc.
Florence Montgomery, in Textiles in
70
x 76 (flat on shelf)
Bartsch, I.G.
Sample book of silk weaving.
This book consists of 100 swatches of
woven silk, lithographed plates depicting looms, weaving patterns, diagrams,
etc. Many of the illustrations show how
the fabric was woven. Weaver's drafts in
the volume are both lithographed and in pen-and-pencil. Some drafts contain handwritten notations
about the quantity of thread needed.
Several of the patterns are numbered and correspond with swatches
located in the front of the volume.
Floral and geometric patterns predominate, although a few crests were
woven into the fabric. All lithographs
bear the name I.G. Bartsch and Al. Leykum, lithographer. Captions and handwritten notations in German.
70
x 78 (in box, 39 B 2)
Textile samples, 1809-1845.
This collection consists of 27 sheets
with numerous small, numbered fabric swatches on each. Such fabric types as calico prints, denim,
broad cloth, woven fabrics, cashmere, wool, and felt are represented. Some sheets contain text, perhaps ordering
information. Several sheets are
addressed to B. Schier. The last page
bears the label "Bloc de 25 Feuilluts pour Etudes et Croques, Papier Pur
Chiffon." Text in French.
The text on 70x78.8 has been translated
as follows:
“Tissue made by the inhabitants of the
(piece
on back): “On one of the
71
x 62 (in miscellaneous
Carquillat, François (1803-1884).
Woven portrait of J. M. Jacquard, ca.1839
A portrait woven out of black and grey
silk, captioned “A la Mémoir de J.M. Jacquard,” woven by Carquillat, and
manufactured by Didier Petit et Cie, perhaps in 1839. The image, woven on a Jacquard loom, is based
on a portrait by Jean-Claude Bonnefond (1796-1860).
(The Metropolitan Museum of Art has a
more detailed version of this portrait, which they attribute to Michel-Marie
Carquillat. The Art Institute of Chicago
has a copy of this portrait. See also acc. 08x76 in this collection.)
(Trex no. 3552)
71
x 132
Swatch book, possibly 1830's.
Consists of nine large swatches of
floral-printed calicos and dimities, each measuring approximately 22 x 26
cm. The back cover contains the
handwritten name "Mrs. R. Rolles."
No direct evidence of date or manufacturer.
See under Index tab for additional
comments about this volume.
72
x 55.1 (flat on shelf)
French printed silks, Spring 1841.
This volume contains 502 examples of
flowered and patterned silks that are French in origin. The swatches are pasted within hand ruled borders
and probably represent new dress fabrics for 1841. Some feature printed designs, while others
have patterns woven into the fabric, including stripes and fleurettes, most on
a light background. A few have a silk
warp and cotton weft and might have been used for handkerchiefs. Several of the swatches are numbered. Patterns are shown in a variety of color
schemes.
72
x 55.2 (flat on shelf)
Album of printed silks, ca. 1830-1850.
This volume, from the same firm as 72 x
55.1, contains approximately 890 swatches of lightweight printed French silks,
displaying a huge variety of patterns and colors in excellent condition. “Un
bel album, tres caracteristique de son epoque." No text.
72
x 55.3 (flat on shelf)
Album of dress silks, spring 1849.
This album, from the same firm as 72 x
55.1-.2, contains 490 pieces of exquisite dress silks, including taffetas,
tone-on-tone or multicolored brocades, floral patterns in multicolored
bouquets, lace, etc. All is in excellent
condition.
72
x 55.4 (flat on shelf)
Collection of silks and velvets, 1856.
This collection, from the same firm as 72
x 55.1-.3, consists of 94 large swatches intended for dressmaking. The samples are in a variety of patterns and
colors and are found to be in excellent condition.
72
x 55.5 (flat on shelf)
Livre d'Echantillons, 1857.
This book, from the same firm as 72 x
55.1-.4, contains 1,400 samples of Indian cottons. Enormous variety of styles and colors.
72
x 56 (flat on shelf)
Silk samples, ca. 1840-1850.
Over 600 variously sized swatches of silk
are pasted within hand-ruled borders.
The especially bright and colorful swatches are probably of French
origin. On the cover, which may not be original
to the leaves, is written "Stoffmuster."
72
x 57
D. & J. Anderson.
Pattern book of cottons, 1887-1909.
D. and J. Anderson manufactured a wide
variety of cotton fabrics in
This pattern book from the firm contains
hundreds of small swatches of colored cotton textile fabrics. Identification numbers are written next to
the swatches, along with weaving information and dates. On the inside front cover an inscription
reads "J. Anderson, her Husband, Deceased was the head of D. & J.
Anderson of
73
x 164
Dye sample book, 1858.
This small volume contains 292 swatches
of printed cotton textiles, most in shades of pink, purple, maroon, or brick
red. It also includes manuscript dye
recipes for most swatches. On verso of
the fourth leaf is a note that reads "Robes dyed Novr. 17th/58"; on
verso of the third leaf from the back, another inscription reads "Oct.
27th/58." Together, these two notes
have been taken to indicate a creation date of 1858. The volume is assumed to be of English
origin, although a previous owner noted of the swatches, "Many of French
origin."
75
x 9.1-.4 (flat on shelf)
Harris, Kate S. (Catherine Smith), 1857-1940.
Harris, Sarah Bradway (Sallie), 1832-1909.
Johnson, Sarah Marion Harris, 1859-1929.
Fabric scrapbooks, ca. 1880-1890.
These scrapbooks were assembled by Sarah
Bradway (Sallie) Harris and her daughters Catherine Smith (Kate) Harris and
Sarah Marion Harris Johnson of
Each one of this four-volume set consists
of fabric swatches sewn to the pages of a scrapbook album, over 700 swatches in
all, with some duplication between the scrapbooks. The scrapbooks were most likely assembled
between 1880 and 1890. The set features
many wedding dress swatches; fabrics for household furnishings are also
included. The origin and approximate age
of many of the swatches are given in handwritten legends, such as "Painted
Muslin from Mary Griscom about 75 years old"; "Homemade Linen check
belonged to Lydia Harris who died in 1843"; "Bought at auction 40
years ago by Susan Denn for 7 cents a yard"; "Anna Powell's wedding
dress, married Waddington B. Ridgway 2nd month 8th 1859"; and "Border
of a shawl found in a bundle of clothes which floated up on the Penns Neck
shore over 25 years ago." 75x009.4
features a number of toiles and ribbons from the World's Industrial and Cotton
Centennial Exposition in
75
x 130 (flat on shelf)
Old
Southampton Odds and Ends,
not completed before 1898.
Swatch book.
The bulk of this volume consists of large
fabric swatches pasted to card stock.
The collection includes examples of wool, linen, and cotton,
demonstrating their application to various items such as tablecloths,
pillowcases, ribbons, wedding dresses, chintz, paisleys, embroideries, calicoes,
and imported examples from
76
x 98.1016 (in miscellaneous
[late 19th century?]
A pale tan ribbon with the word “
76
x 98.1017 (in miscellaneous
Woven by J. & J. Cash, Inc.,
A
peach-colored ribbon woven with a portrait of George Washington, a decorative
border, and the words: “Washington Bicentennial Book Mark, 1732-1932, All Good
Wishes from
76
x 98.1018 (in miscellaneous
McKinley calendar ribbon
A blue ribbon made after the
assassination of William McKinley in 1901.
The ribbon includes the words “McKinley Calendar,” a portrait of
McKinley, a summary of his life and career, words of farewell, and a calendar
for the year 1902. The ends are
decorated with fringe. A bad stain mars
the portrait.
76
x 98.1019 (in miscellaneous
Rosser-Gibbons Camp of Confederate
Veterans.
Ribbon for Grand rally and picnic, 1898.
A pale blue ribbon decorated with the
seal of Virginia and printed with the words “1861-65, Grand Rally and Picnic by
Rosser-Gibbons Camp of Confederate Veterans, Luray, Va., August 25th,
1898.” Pin holes are easily discernable
in the upper edge. The long edges of the
ribbon are beginning to fray.
77
x 46 (in miscellaneous
Bookmark
Bookmark embroidered in cross-stitch on
card stock, not on fabric, but the card is attached to silk ribbon. The bookmark bears the initials C. E. L. and
the number 73 (probably a reference to the year 1873).
77 x 60.3 (in miscellaneous
A white ribbon,
5.5 cm wide and 23 cm. long, in the middle of which is a round picture, printed
in black, bearing the inscription “Alliance of Neptune and Pan, Union of Erie
with the
The ribbon was
purchased at the same time as a letter from Nathan S. Roberts, civil engineer
in charge of construction of the canal, and may have belonged to him. Furthermore, Col. 243 contains a watch paper
which was cut out of an identical ribbon (acc. no. 76x69.9).
77
x 110
The inscription "
Identified by Florence Montgomery (Textiles in America, 1650-1870) as
"identical to a book at Colonial Williamsburg."
77 x 199 (in miscellaneous
Ribbon, ca. 1819
An off-white
ribbon, 7 cm. wide by 30 cm. long, issued by the Washington Beneficial Society,
which was instituted on April 19 and incorporated on August 3, 1819. The inscription does not give the city or
state of incorporation, but it is believed to have been in
77 x 515 (in miscellaneous
Ames
Manufacturing Company.
Benjamin
Franklin statue commemorative ribbon, 1856.
An off-white
ribbon, 6 cm. wide by 22 cm. long, issued by the
The statue was
placed in front of City Hall on
78
x 100
Lace-making instructions, ca. 1885-1900.
This volume consists of a pocket-sized
book, into which instructions for making a variety of knitted lace patterns
have been both written and pasted, along with small samples of actual lace
corresponding to each set of instructions.
Many of the sets of instructions are newspaper clippings. As well, there is an example of drawn-thread
work and an example of cross stitch. The
first three pages contain what appear to be milk production records for four
months of 1885. The previous owner has
related that the volume came from
78
x 178
Le Gueult & Dulongraix.
Letters, ca. 1800.
This volume contains four letters with
wool felt and calico samples, written to the firm Le Gueult & Dulongraix at
Vire from the firm Cattres & Martin.
The letters involve crediting accounts and filling orders. Samples show the types of fabrics in which
the firms were dealing. The felt samples
have numbers, possibly for orders, associated with them. The dates used in the letters are from the
French Republican calendar. Text in
French.
78 x 221 (in miscellaneous
A. O. Crane
& Co.
Battle of Bunker
Hill centennial commemorative ribbon, 1875.
A white ribbon,
7 cm. wide by 16 cm. long, copyrighted by A.O. Crane & Co. of 98 Kingston
St., Boston, in 1875, to commemorate the centennial of the Battle of Bunker
Hill. On the ribbon is printed 1775, The
Battle, 1875, Centennial, a picture of the Bunker Hill Monument, with a note
that the cornerstone was laid in 1825, pictures of George Washington and the
Marquis de Lafayette (although he was not present at the battle), and phrase “They both still live in the heart of
every true lover of liberty.” All this
is followed by a picture of
The ribbon has
some brown stains on it.
78 x 246 (in miscellaneous
Baltimore and
Ohio Railroad Company.
Ribbon, 1828.
A decorative
ribbon, 10 cm. wide by 14 cm. long with two pictures printed on it: one of a
neoclassical building (which resembles a bank or a government building), and
the other picture shows a train crossing a bridge, beneath which is the date
The Baltimore
and Ohio Railroad began construction on
79
x 251 (in miscellaneous
Beneficial
Society of Journeymen Tin Plate and Sheet-Iron Workers.
Ribbon, 1832.
A ribbon, 6 cm.
wide by 17.5 cm. long, on which is printed the phrase Beneficial Society of
Journeymen Tin Plate & Sheet-Iron Workers.
A hammer and a mallet are also depicted, and the printer’s name,
Johnson, is present. Handwritten on the
ribbon is the name John Smack Aimes and the date 1832. Nothing gives a clue as to where this society
was located.
80 x 91 (in miscellaneous
Croton Aqueduct
(N.Y.)
Ribbon, 1842
A ribbon, 8 cm
wide by 20 cm. long, printed to commemorate the “Completion of the Croton
Aqueduct” in
80
x 135.8 (in miscellaneous
Silk needlepoint bookmark
Ca.1840-1900
A design wrought with silk thread on
green card stock, which is in turn mounted on a silk ribbon with fringe. The stitch used is the tent stitch commonly
found in needlepoint. The design on the
bookmark is of two(?) animals (perhaps a ewe and lamb) under a tree (there are
too many legs for one animal, but only one head is visible).
80
x 251 (flat on shelf)
White goods sample book, 1855-1860.
This book consists of over 2,000 numbered
swatches of variously patterned white goods pasted into a very thick
volume. Manuscript notes on each page
give the name and price of the textiles.
A notation on verso of the front, free-end paper reads, "15.9.55,
White Book No. 8803, In giving orders please give Book as well as pattern
Nos." These swatches only occupy
the first half of the volume, as those originally in the second half have been
removed. Some documents laid in at front
suggest that this volume may have been kept by one Samuel R. Shipley while
working for Charles W. Churchman in the dry goods business in
[see back of folder for indexes to this
volume, one index for the illustrations and another for the names of the fabric
patterns]
81
x 48 (in miscellaneous
Cotton swatch
Plain swatch of cotton pinned to a note
stating that is was “woven by the manufacturing machinery from
(Trex no. 8545)
81
x 49 (in miscellaneous
Carquillat, Françcois.
Woven portrait of George Washington,
1876?
French woven silk, a portrait of George
Washington, with leaves and an eagle.
Marked Carquillat
The textile has been mounted on
cloth-covered mat board.
(The
(Trex no. 8546)
81
x 85 (in miscellaneous
Ribbon
Green ribbon with gold-stamped letters
reading "Woodcarvers Association of Cincinnati, O."
(Trex no. 8567)
81
x 299 (in miscellaneous
African Benevolent Society
Ribbon
Ribbon printed with the words
"African Benevolent Society," 1840's.
There were organizations with that name in several cities in the
81
x 461
Jordan, Marsh & Co.,
Swatch book, 186-.
This book contains 198 small swatches of
cloth sold through Jordan, Marsh & Co.
The notice facing the first leaf states, "In submitting to your
attention the accompanying samples of the very latest Foreign Fabrics in the
newest designs and colorings, we would call your attention to the fact that
each style is designated by its own number, and the width and price plainly
marked." The swatches are grouped,
six to a page, in families of similar textile, e.g., "Cashmeres,"
"Drap d'Alma," and "Brocade." Interestingly and in spite of the claim of
the introductory notice, the only color available in this volume is black.
83
x 140.1 (in miscellaneous
Hudson-Fulton Handkerchief
1909
Handkerchief, probably cotton, about 17
¾” square, with designs printed in black.
In the middle is a view of the Statue of Liberty with the skyline of
84
x 055
Chintz samples, 1840.
There are five colorful pieces of chintz,
cut for use as fabric samples. Each has
a label affixed to the fabric with what might have been its price.
84
x 88 (in Miscellaneous
Silk samples, ca.1816.
A sample of black, blue, and cream plaid
silk; a length of maroon ribbon, 6.5 cm. wide, with a brown and cream pattern
and picots running down both sides; and two hanks of silk filament that have
not been spun into thread. One hank is
cream colored, and the other is a pale yellow.
Unfortunately, there is no documentation to indicate the origins of any
of these items or to verify the date.
85
x 129
Cloth sample book, 1836.
The book consists of fifty-one pieces of
woven and printed cotton fabric, probably available through J.W. Gibb's dry
goods store. Patterns are calico in
style with shades of brown and tan predominating. Originally a gift from J.W. Gibbs, a
A paper about this volume is filed with
the finding aid at this repository.
85 x 164 (flat on shelf)
“The Poor Slave”
broadside printed on fabric, ca.1834.
An abolitionist
broadside printed on fabric headed “The Poor Slave: Dedicated to the Friends of
Humanity.” Across the top are four
pictures: two are seals of abolitionist groups, both of which bear the date
1834. The other two pictures share the
caption “Which of these systems of education shall we hand down to posterity?” One picture shows a white man whipping slave
children chained together; the other shows a white man teaching
African-American children in a school.
But most of the broadside is text, including passages from the Bible, a
story about the Liberty Bell, and stories of children learning about the evils
of slavery. The fabric was printed by
the Boston Chemical Printing Company.
85
x 175 (flat on shelf)
Needlework sample album, 1600-1899?
This album contains 26 individual pieces
of needlework samples dating from the 17th to the 19th centuries in a wide
variety of styles and fabrics. Most are
of English origin, although some are French or Italian.
86 x 35 (in miscellaneous
Chair Makers.
Evacuation Day
commemorative ribbon, 1830.
A ribbon, almost
7 cm wide by 22 cm. long, apparently printed by chair makers to be worn as part
of Evacuation Day festivities in New York City in 1830. The ribbon bears the words “Chair Makers.
Evacuation.
During the early
19th century,
86
x 166
Hautmann, Heinrich. Calculationsbuch.
Book of weaving instructions, ca.
1800-1849.
This book contains instructions for
setting up looms to weave 33 different patterns of textiles. Calculations of costs are also included. Small swatches of 33 textiles are pasted into
the volume; fourteen larger swatches are laid in. Written in German fraktur script. Both
fabric swatches and text are in good condition.
87
x 47.1-.5 (in miscellaneous box 1)
Ribbons
Five pieces of silk ribbon, including one
floral, one red grosgrain with checkerboard border, one black and gold floral,
one roman striped, and one plain salmon (plain, but very wide). All date to the 1890's.
87
x 49 (in miscellaneous
A “housewife” (a fabric case which could
be rolled up) showing samples of fabrics, with silk edging.
87
x 50 (in miscellaneous
Doll quilt
Doll quilt showing samples of variously
printed cotton.
87
x 193 (in miscellaneous box 1)
Floral ribbon
Piece of silk ribbon, woven with a
pattern of flowers, 33" long, 1890's.
88
x 91 (in Miscellaneous
Card of fabric samples, ca. 1820.
This card consists of twelve small
samples of woven fabrics of English origin.
The patterns are all floral; some are sculpted. Each sample has a number associated with it that
was probably used for ordering the fabric.
The word Cassimeres, the name "Henry Lee," and the number
"594" are written in ink on the outside of the card. Lee may have been an agent for the firm
selling these patterns. A woodcut
engraving depicting a boy on an island surrounded by boxes, trees, tools, and
an anchor is also present.
88
x 230.1 (in miscellaneous
Silk ribbon – “Christmas Greetings”
An ivory silk ribbon with a poem printed
on it in purple ink: “I send to you, dear friend today/ A Christmas gift so
fair/ That monarchs oft have failed to find/ It ‘mong their jewels rare./ ‘Twas
sent to earth long ages since,/ It came from Heaven above,/ A gift the poorest
may bestow,/ The Christmas Gift of Love.”
The ribbon could have been given as a Christmas present or a Christmas
card. The author of the poem is
identified by the initials M.E.S. The
ribbon is about 8 inches long and 2 3/8 inches wide.
88
x 230.2-.3 (in miscellaneous
Bookmarks
Two bookmarks embroidered in cross-stitch
on card stock, not on fabric. One design shows a lamb sitting on the ground
beneath a cross decorated with a floral wreath; it is attached to a silk
ribbon. The other bookmark was not
completed and is now damaged. The
pattern is stamped onto the card and reads “Christ is Risen.”
89
x 43 (flat on shelf)
Ribbon sample book, 19th century.
Although anonymous, the creator of this
book has been identified as a large French firm of the nineteenth century.
The volume contains hundreds of samples
of colorfully decorated silk and ribbons.
The original bright colors of these exceptional samples have been well
preserved. Though without any text
whatsoever, the arrangement suggests that the book was either a sample book to
show to prospective customers, or a record of work completed by the
manufacturer.
90
x 29 (flat on shelf)
Lace samples, ca.1830-1870
This volume consists of some 500
variously-sized samples of machine-made lace in a wide variety of
patterns. Each sample contains a small
paper label on which are written item numbers and prices as well as the printed
initials “A.L.L.” The samples may have
come from
[Similar sample book may be found in the
Grossman Collection.]
90
x 033
Geser, Albert.
Thread sample book, 1862-1863.
Albert Geser's name appears on the inside
front cover of this volume with an address in the Swiss canton Saint
Gallen. He is presumed to have been a
cloth or thread manufacturer as well as the owner of this volume.
The book consists of a large number of
thread samples, and a very few fabric swatches, with accompanying notes in
German indicating kinds of fabric woven and names of color. The end of the volume contains a price index;
a table of weavers' salaries; a list of names (perhaps customers) from
93
x 69 (flat on shelf)
Swatchbook, ca. 1830-1850.
This book contains over 800 numbered
cotton fabric swatches produced by a roller printing process from an
unidentified mill, probably located in
See under Index tab for additional
comments about this volume.
93
x 135
Tatting sample book, ca. 1850-1900
This book consists of 34 samples of
tatting, representing examples of different stitches. The hand-done lace has been dyed in a variety
of pastel colors.
93
x 136
Ribbon sample book, possibly of French
origin, 18--?
This book consists of ten panels, all
with samples of ribbon woven in a brocade design. Each panel has four sets of designs, with
three samples of varying colors in each set.
Colors include red, blue, lavender, gold, and light blue. Geometric leaves and flowers
predominate.
94
x 10 (flat on shelf, in own box)
Cocheco Manufacturing Company,
Fabric samples, ca. 1880-1890.
The Cocheco Manufacturing Company
produced printed textiles in
The volume consists of four folders
featuring 22 samples from the Cocheco Manufacturing Co. and sold by Lawrence
& Co. Three contain samples of
printed cottons; the fourth is larger and has samples of extra-heavy twilled
creton in a pattern named "Vouchers."
The three smaller cardboard sheets include an engraving of the print
works and surrounding buildings in
Publications: Affleck, Diane L. Fagan. Just
New from the Mills: Printed Cottons in
Additional records of the Cocheco
Manufacturing Co. can be found at the
94
x 69
Mercer, John.
Letter, 1844, with samples
This letter was written by Mercer to his
son about the kind of fabric that customers were buying in
94
x 113 (in Miscellaneous
Samples of Londrins Seconde de la
Gravette
One sheet containing twelve samples of
brightly colored wool felt.
94
x 114 (in Miscellaneous
Letter to Citizen Vitte from Monsieur
Siguiere, 1801
The letter was written to Citizen Vitte
at
95
x 28 (in its own box)
National Tailoring
Fabric samples, 1936
Consists of 44 wool fabric samples
available from the National Tailoring Co. for men's suits in the Fall and
Winter of 1936. Fabrics were from a
number of makers including the American Woolen Co., Uxbridge Mills, Dunn
Worsted Mills, and Cleveland Mills. Each
of the samples is numbered and mounted on a cardboard backing with information
describing the nature of the fabric and its class.
95
x 93 (in miscellaneous
Botany Worsted Mills,
Fabric samples, [not after 1924]
This item is an accordion-type folder
featuring 64 fabric samples of worsted wool from the Botany Worsted Company of
(Botany Worsted Mills of Passaic, NJ was
incorporated in May 1889. It was
organized by foreign investors, mainly Kammgarn Spinnerei Stoehr & Company
of
97 x 23.17 (in miscellaneous
Ribbon honoring
Frances Cleveland, ca.1886.
A ribbon, 6.5
cm. wide and 14 cm. long (including fringe), woven with a black and white
portrait of Frances F. Cleveland. The
ribbon is also decorated with purple violets.
97
x 145
Garner & Co.
Swatch book, 1896-1897
A record book containing swatches of
fabrics, with notes about dyes, washing,
starching, weights, measurements, finishings, and other writings on the
production of a variety of cotton fabrics.
These writings are dated. The
fabrics include bandana and handkerchief prints, shirting, moire skirting,
sateens, drills, taffeta silk finish, sheetings, ducks, percales, etc. On pages 14 and 15 are patterns for portraits
of William McKinley and Garret A. Hobart, the Republican Party nominees for
president and vice-president in 1896. At
the beginning of the volume are prints for bandanas and what are probably
prints for handkerchiefs, several featuring images of children. One set of prints illustrates the story of
"Who Killed Cock Robin." Other
fabrics show a variety of prints, stripes, plaids, and solids. Printed labels appear with some of the
swatches, and many bear the name Garner & Co.,
[note: this was formerly cataloged as
Doc. 1097]
99
x 87
Silk swatch book and weaving
instructions, from
A notebook from the Department de Rhône,
France, dated 1835-1836, containing swatches of silk fabrics, design drawings,
and weaving instructions. This
manuscript appears to have been kept by someone who made fabric for men’s
vests. Among other things, the notebook
includes descriptions of the different colors and textiles to be used for
vests; contains a price list of different weights of fiber used to produce
cloth; indicates colors and hues for Paris customers; summarizes merchandise in
the writer’s store as of September 1835; includes the times to see American and
Parisians to show them the new fabrics; and mentions a payment from a
government agency for products. Most of
the swatches are dark colors; many have
floral patterns.
00
x 51 (flat on shelf)
Lace samples book
18th-20th
centuries.
Notebook containing samples of laces, almost
all of which are labeled as being from the Fayen collection. The kinds of lace represented are Slav or
Arabian lace, Mechlin, lacis, Irish point crochet, Binche, Valenciennes, rose
point, Devonia, net brodé (or hollie point), tatting, knitted, Saxony guipure
(also called Maltese), Chantilly, and appliqué or Youghal lace. A few machine made laces are included for
comparison purposes. Many of the laces
are from the 18th and 19th centuries, but some are from
the early 20th. The notebook
also contains photos and photocopies of samples of other kinds of laces.
01x58.2
(flat on shelf)
Ladies’ linen cambric handkerchiefs box
Late 19th century.
A box which once held a half dozen
ladies’ linen cambric handkerchiefs, style no. 111, of superior quality. The box has been decorated with a picture of a
vase of flowers, decorative paper, and two strips of woven ribbon, with a round
design on it and picot edges. No names
are associated with this item.
04
x 21 (flat on shelf)
Brown, Ella C.
Jenkins, b.ca.1856.
Geraldine’s
scrapbook of dresses, 1889-1904.
Biographical
note: Geraldine Fay Brown was the daughter of Ella C. Jenkins and J. Merrill
Brown. Geraldine was born
Description of
scrapbook: A scrapbook with fabric swatches, pictures of dresses, notes about
the dresses, and a photo of Geraldine Brown, kept by her mother in
The earliest
swatches are for the first colored dresses Geraldine wore, made when she was
two years old. No pictures accompany
these swatches, but one dress had a square neck, one a low neck, and one was a
Mother Hubbard style. Her first woolen
dress was made when she was three. In
November 1890, Aunt Harriet helped make the dress that was worn on Geraldine’s
first trip to
A class paper
about this scrapbook is filed with this finding aid.
04x150
The House
Carpenters’ Benevolent Society of the
Ribbon, ca.
1833.
A silk ribbon
commemorating the House Carpenters’ Benevolent Society of the Village of
Brooklyn, New York, incorporated in 1833.
The name of the organization is printed on the ribbon, along with a
circular vignette depicting a mother with her two sons, one of whom plays with
wood and carpentry tools. In the
background, a house is being built.
The society was
authorized by an act of the
06 x 51
(flat on shelf)
Eagen, Mary
Helen.
Graded sewing
course, ca.1900.
A workbook kept
by Mary Helen Eagen for a manual training course, probably during her studies
at a teacher’s training school, possibly in New York City. The lessons are for grades 1A-6B. Each section begins with a statement of the
course of study and a syllabus for the class.
Most lessons include samples.
Grade 1A begins with simple knotting of cords and introduces rattan and
raffia. Simple items are made by both
girls and boys with these items. Grade
1B introduces more complicated knot work.
Grades 2A and 2B build on these skills and introduce needle and thread,
but it is not clear if boys are to be participants in the sewing drills,
although basketball nets and sailor knots are among the items to be made. Each subsequent grade adds to sewing skills,
including basting, seaming, making button holes and sewing on buttons, darning,
and making an apron. A sample apron is included
in the volume. The lessons include notes
on the history of weaving and looms, different kinds of scissors, and other
background material. By grade 6,
students were learning to draft patterns, which utilized mathematical skills,
and estimate amounts of fabric required.
Two exercises on pieces of fabric printed with Steiger’s Elementary
Sewing Design, copyright 1897 are laid into the volume. There are blank pages where additional
samples could be placed. Several small
slips of paper are laid into the volume; these contain critiques of Miss
Eagen’s work.
06 x 141
(flat on shelf)
Bastian, F.
(Mrs.)
Crochet and
tatting sample book, ca.1890-ca.1920.
A volume
containing over one hundred samples of crochet and tatted lace, most mounted
onto pages, but a few just laid into the book.
Several samples include rick-rack or ribbon as part of the design. Most samples would have been suitable for
edging or insertion lace, but some samples could have been made into doilies or
mats, and one piece is a small basket.
Also laid into the volume are pictures of designs available from DMC, J.
& P. Coats, and Bucilla, companies which made crochet and tatting thread.
Nothing is known
about Mrs. Bastian.
07 x 81 (in Miscellaneous
Mallatrat,
Frederick.
Letter to Robert
Thorpe, with samples, 1816.
A letter from
Frederick Mallatrat,
Frederick
Mallatrat was listed as a woolen draper and tailor in the 1823
07 x 5
(flat on shelf)
Henry Remsen,
Jr., and Company
Pattern book [of
textiles], 1767.
Swatch book
inscribed inside front cover: Henry Remsen Junr. & Company, their pattern
book, received from Messrs. Benjamin & John Bower, merchts. in
Henry Remsen,
Jr., was one of the largest importers of dry goods and prints in
07 x 147 (in Miscellaneous
Alex. P. Mende
& Co. (
Dyed thread
sample book, 1896.
A sample card of
dyed threads, showing the various shades available from different strengths of
the dyes and different ways of dyeing.
The dyes only came in yellow, blue, and red, but could also be mixed to
form other colors. The dyes were for use
on cotton, union, linen, jute, silk, and paper.
Alex. P. Mende
& Co. was located at
08 x 50
(flat on shelf)
Oak Hall (Firm)
Custom samples,
1890.
A book
containing approximately 110 samples of fabric, mostly wools, intended to be
used for men’s, youth’s, and boy’s ulsters, overcoats, suits, other coats,
pants, and vests. The book was
originally issued with fabric samples for spring and summer 1890, although the
cover of the volume is labeled as samples for fall and winter 1890. Inside, a letter dated June 28, 1890,
instructed the owner to remove certain samples (which was done) and stated that
samples for fall and winter were to be sent later and could be added to the
book. A price list for the clothing is
glued inside the back cover. Additional
instructions on how to place orders are inside the front and back covers, with
the admonition that large spring-bottom pants were considered to be in poor
taste. Oak Hall was also prepared to
furnish sports clothing, G.A.R. goods, and military and firemen’s
uniforms. This particular copy of the
sample book includes a letter from Wile, Brickner & Co. of
G.W. Simmons
& Co. of
08 x 76 (in miscellaneous
Woven portrait
of J. M. Jacquard, ca.1839?.
A portrait woven
out of black and grey silk, captioned “J.M. Jacquard, né a
08x122 (flat on shelf)
Catering
Collection, Potiers Diary, 1827-1841, No. 5 [letter book with textile samples],
1827-1841.
Bound volume of
extracts of letters, accompanied by about 1200 textile samples, from British
firms operating in
Color photocopy
is available, but the images do not capture the entire page. Nevertheless, researchers are requested to
look at the copy first.
08x150.2
(flat on shelf)
Box with
embroidery designs inside.
Late 19th
century
A box with a lid
which has been decorated with a Christmas card with a picture of fruit. Inside the box is a design for the letter B
which could be worked in cross stitch or
08x150.3a-g (in
Miscellaneous box 1)
Windows with
curtains.
Ca.1900-1925.
A collection of seven
curtained windows made from calling cards, probably intended for use in a
collage album or possibly a doll house.
The curtains are made from machine-woven lace and ribbon and are mounted
on the backs of invitations and at home cards.
Two curtains have pink ribbon trim, four have turquoise green ribbon
trim, and one has no ribbon trim. The
cards are for addresses in the
RELATED
MATERIALS IN THE
(Note:
this is not an exhaustive list. Please
search the on-line catalog for other documents and collections. Some subject headings to search include
Textile fabrics – Sample books; Textile fabrics – Specimens; Sewing – Amateur’s
manuals; Sewing – Study and teaching.)
Zindel, Auguste.
Records, 1825-1902.
The records consist of 90 notebooks, plus
one published history of the 19th-century industry in
A more detailed description of the
contents is available at the repository.
Trotter, Nathan (1787-1853).
Papers, ca. 1805-1839.
The collection includes four sheets of
samples (as well as other items, not relating to textiles), dating from 1805 to
1810. One page contains ten textile
samples of bearskins and coatings, with numbers and yardages of each. The
second contains 20 samples of fine colored leather, giving the number and name
of each color. The third sheet contains
five samples of fine colored leathers, two of which have tiny patterns printed
on them. The fourth contains ten samples
of variegated, colored silk with
numbers.
Publications: Tooker, Elva.
Nathan Trotter,
Maurepas, Jean-Frederic Phelypeaux, Comte
de, 1701-1781.
Papers, 1731-1743.
The papers consist of two groups: reports on English cloth manufacture and the
Levant trade (five items) and reports on the possibility of selling cloth from
Indexes:
translation of the report with details of woolen cloth manufacture in
the Florence Montgomery Papers, collection 107, at this repository.
References:
Historical French documents of the
eighteenth century, from the archive of Jean-Frederic Phelypeaux, Comte de
Maurepas, Parke-Bernet Galleries, Inc. (New York, 1962), entries 67 and 72.
Publications:
Lamontagnue, Roland. Textiles
et documents Maurepas.
Fabric swatches and documents.
A collection containing more than one
thousand textile swatches, most dated 1863 or 1872, plus some other
miscellaneous documents which relate to textiles, 1833-1874. Many of the swatches are associated with the
Ancona Printing Co. of Gloucester City,
Doc.
75 (acc. 77 x 152)
Pearce, Muriel.
Sewing exercise book, ca. 1880-1910.
Muriel Pearce's signature appears in
pencil at the top of the front cover; she is otherwise unidentified.
The book consists of a series of 19
different exercises in sewing and mending.
Each includes a handwritten series of instructions, with corresponding
finished work attached to the facing page.
Three swatches are also laid in without accompanying instructions. Work done in muslin and other textiles.
Doc.
100 (acc. 77 x 254)
Lichtenberger, Estella M.
Sewing exercise book, ca. 1890-1910.
Estella ("Stella") M.
Lichtenberger, (
The book consists of an index with
"Definitions and Rules," followed by a series of twenty-five
different exercises in sewing and mending. Each exercise includes a handwritten
series of instructions and illustrative diagrams, with the corresponding
finished work attached to the facing page.
Work has been done on muslin as well as other textiles.
Foyer, Rachel Darling.
Sewing exercise book, ca. 1880-1910.
Rachel Darling Foyer, according to the
inscription on the first page, lived at
The book, written left-handed, consists
of a series of 23 graded exercises in sewing and mending. Each includes a numbered sheet of typed
instruction, with the corresponding finished work attached to the facing page. Some of the exercises are
entitled "doll clothes." Foyer designates Exercise VI as the
"End of First Grade;" Exercise XIII is "End of Second
Grade;" Exercise XVI is "End of Third Grade;" and Exercise XXII
is "End of Fourth Grade." It
appears that the course was left incomplete because there is only one exercise
in the Fifth Grade, and because the last 55 leaves in the volume are blank.
Doc.
1099 (acc. 99x111)
Wood, Dorothy A.
Sewing exercise book, [ca.1900?]
Consists of 12 different exercises in
sewing and mending. Each exercise
includes a handwritten series of instructions with the corresponding finished
sample attached to the facing page. The
first three pages list some basic sewing supplies and give some general
information about sewing (correct posture for sewing, needed light, how to
thread needles, etc.) and fabric. The
samples have been worked on different kinds of cloth.
Doc.
1337 (acc. 03x39)
Krieg, Dorothy (Dora).
Sewing exercise book, ca.1900.
A school copy book was used for mounting
the sewing samples. The volume is bound
with marbled boards and a cloth spine.
The back cover and part of the spine are loose. The samples are stitched to the pages. Many of the samples show a little discoloration. Dorothy wrote her name on the front cover and
inside the back cover. Some other
designs are also drawn inside the back cover.
Doc.
1366 (acc. 03x164)
Parrish, Roberta Christine Brinkley, 1924-2007.
Sewing exercise book, ca.1953.
An exercise book (on loose-leaf notebook
paper) kept by Roberta Parrish during a sewing class. The class was probably at the Watkins
Institute in
Doc.
1474 (acc. 06x93)
Baskett,
Sewing exercise book, ca.1902-1920.
Sewing exercise book includes completed
exercises in patching, darning, making plackets and gussets (including gussets
for trousers or drawers), gathering, pleating, crafting buttonholes, etc. The work was done on textile fabrics and some
pieces are almost miniature apparel, such as an apron and drawers or
trousers. A paper pattern for a doll
size shift or dress is laid into the volume.