The
The Joseph Downs Collection of Manuscripts and
Printed Ephemera
Henry
Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Winterthur, DE 19735
302-888-4600 or
800-448-3883
OVERVIEW OF THE COLLECTION
Title: Swatch Book Collection
Dates: ca.1700-ca.1925
Call No.:
Acc. No.: [various
– see detailed description]
Quantity: 6 linear feet
Location: 39 A-C
SCOPE AND CONTENT
This artificial and still open collection
includes both bound and unbound items containing textile fabric samples.
The collection contains swatch books
representing a multiplicity of historical backgrounds and purposes. For instance, some books were created as
salesmen's sample books; others as a record of the dyeing process. Still others were assembled by young women as
a record of their own needlework or of local textiles.
As more relevant
items are acquired, the swatch book collection continues to expand. However, it does not include textile fabric
swatches that already belong to another identifiable collection. Nor does the collection contain bound volumes
with some swatches that are incidental to the primary reason for the creation
of said volume. Additional materials may
be located by searching the catalog using the terms Textile fabrics – Sample
books or Textile fabrics – Specimens.
Ads and trade cards related to the textile trade are filed in
Collections 214 and 9. (One trade card,
61x6, includes some lace samples.)
ORGANIZATION
The swatch books
are shelved in accession number order, except that the oversized materials are
shelved below the others. The finding
aid lists the items in accession number order.
Each volume is
also individually cataloged in the on-line catalog.
LANGUAGE OF MATERIALS
Most of the
materials are in English.
RESTRICTIONS ON ACCESS
Collection is
open to the public. Copyright
restrictions may apply.
PROVENANCE
Gifts and
purchases from various sources.
ACCESS POINTS (for collection as a whole,
not for the individual accessions, each of which also has its own entry in the
on-line catalog)
Topics:
Textile
fabrics – Sample books.
Yarn – Sample books.
Needlework – Sample books.
Ribbons.
Weavers.
Textile workers.
Dyers.
Swatch books.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION
Location: 39 A-C
58
x 34
Weaving instruction manual, in French,
ca. 1829.
This manual consists of diagrams and
written instructions for setting up looms in order to weave a wide variety of
patterns upon many different textiles.
Many sets of instructions are accompanied by sample swatches of the
finished textile. Certain headings
include "
62
x 31.1-.4
Timmich, Georg Friedrich. Farbe
Buch.
Dyeing book, 1754-1758.
Georg Friedrich Timmich was a dyer in a
German-speaking area during the mid-eighteenth century.
The volume (62x31.1) and the accompanying
loose sheets (62 x 31.2-.4) compose Georg Timmich's collection of dye recipes
for yarn and textile fabrics. Many of
the recipes are accompanied by a swatch dyed to show the results. Toward the back of the volume, entries are
made in a different handwriting of a more recent, probably 19th-century, style
and spelling. The first page contains an
ornate calligraphic verse "Alles mit Gott, So hat es keine Noth. Soli Deo Gloria" and the date 1754. Text in old German script.
62
x 32
Codecasa, Benedict. Muster Karte
Von Iermesut, Scalli, Cettari, Cutni und Scamalagia nach Ostindischer Art.
Viennese swatch book.
Benedict Codecasa was an authorized silk
manufacturer in
This volume consists of twelve panels of
22 numbered swatches of colored woven silk and cotton. On the first and fourteenth panels are copies
of a trade label in German summarizing Codecasa's business and giving his
address. Identified by Florence Montgomery
(Textiles in America, 1650-1870) as
"a late eighteenth-century sample book of 272 swatches of striped silk and
cotton materials patterned after Indian goods." Labels on the cover and
slipcase indicate that this was the second in a series of sample books.
65
x 662.1-.7
Yarn sample books, 1847-1854(?)
This group consists of seven small paper
bound volumes containing recipes for dyeing yarn, most of which are accompanied
by a yarn sample in the finished color.
Four of the volumes have printed covers indicating that they were
manufactured in
65
x 693
Japanese textile sample book, 1840-1900.
This volume begins with one page of
Japanese calligraphy, which has been translated as reading, "Collection of
samples of thick- striped cloths which is called 'Ome-jima';" or
"Collection of samples of thick-striped 'Ome-jima.'" This first
page is followed by fifteen pages of approximately 350 wool fabric samples.
65
x 695.1
This leather-bound book consists of
approximately 500 swatches of various textile fabrics, including fine examples
of "camelots," "sattins," "tabourets,"
"fleurets," "callemandres," "camelottines,"
"harlequins," and "grandines." Some facing pages contain manuscript notes in
French, which provide specific names for the corresponding fabrics. A faint manuscript inscription on the front
free endpaper indicates a British origin, reading, "
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.2
91 pages contain some 2,000 numbered
swatches of variously colored and patterned worsteds, described as
"sattins" and as "satinets." A few titles in German appear, but the
numeration is written in an English hand.
The original top board contains a torn paper label that reads "Copy of a Pattn. Book Sent to C O &
..." The original back board has
"ICH" stamped upon it in gold.
Both boards are preserved separately from the pattern book.
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.3
Consists of 685 small, numbered swatches
of variously colored worsteds, including callimancoes, camlettes, taboratts,
and fine lastings or everlastings.
Contains a list of prices and one of such addressees as D. Callaghan,
chez Louis Preiswerk a Bale (
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.4
Cover title: "Counter, 1788"
94 pages consist of some 4,240 small
swatches of variously colored and patterned worsteds. Notes between groups of swatches indicate
that this volume was originally a record of fabrics ordered by different
customers during the course of one year.
Examples of such notes read "order DF sent 18 Jany. 1788" and
order HVV sent 15 Novr. 1788."
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.5
This book includes some 850 small,
numbered swatches of variously colored and patterned worsteds. The inside cover bears the inscription
"Booth and Theobald,
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 695.6
89 pages present some 1,500 small,
numbered swatches of various worsteds.
Two pages include notes on the specific kinds of textile, such as
"camelots" and "clouded calles (callemandres?)."
[look under Index tab for index to this
volume]
65
x 696
Ribbon sample book, ca. 1826-1864.
This volume contains 345 of originally
354 samples of woven ribbons, each measuring 6.5 x 15.5 cm. Notes on the first page read
"French. Recd. from Mr. Dresser,
65
x 697 (flat on shelf)
Printed challis sample book, ca. 1830
(perhaps from
This book consists of 304 "tissus
d'habillement," colorful swatches of challis, a soft wool or wool-cotton
cloth, in varying sizes up to 25 x 18 cm.
The swatches are included in no apparent order. The inside front cover contains a printed
label from a French papermaker/blank book binder in
See under Index tab for additional
comments about this volume.
65
x 698
This book consists of 432 samples,
divided into 16 panels of 27 numbered swatches.
The textiles include various kinds of
65
x 699
This volume originally consisted of 12
panels of 12 numbered swatches each (three are presently missing). The textiles represent a variety of
65
x 700
This volume contains 30 panels of
numbered swatches, most with 14 swatches per panel. The textiles are various kinds of
66
x 141
Rowan, Archibald Hamilton.
Sample book of designs for printed
cotton, ca. 1795-1799.
Archibald Hamilton Rowan, a member of the
Society of United Irishmen, was exiled from
This book consists of over 140 numbered
block impressions on paper, many brightened by watercolors, that provide
examples of eighteenth-century calico-printed textiles. Many of the designs bear a resemblance to
contemporary English work. Six of the
patterns have dark plum backgrounds, similar to an English dark-ground style
for ladies' dresses. Three- or four-inch
borders of a rich, dense style harmonize with more widely spaced flowers in
other patterns, suggesting their intended use as furnishing chintzes. Patterns with sprigs were used for
dress-goods. Small, stylized figures
appearing in fields of several patterns are typical of contemporary shawl
chintzes. Other designs include geometrical
and stylized striped lining materials.
Although a note on the front wrapper indicates that these are wallpaper
designs, Rowan's career suggests otherwise.
The papers on which the patterns are printed bear the watermark of the
Gilpin paper mills, also located along the
A map that shows the location of Rowan's
mill is available in the collection.
Publications:
Kiefer,
Kathleen, “Archibald Hamilton Rowan’s Pattern Book: A Preliminary Technical and
Stylistic Analysis,” (student paper), 1994.
(filed with this finding aid)
69 x 78
(flat on shelf)
Print sample
book, 1795.
A sample book
containing colored woodblock prints.
Although all but one of the samples are printed on paper, Florence
Montgomery believed the patterns were for textiles, not for wallpaper. The one sample which is not on paper is
indeed printed on fabric; furthermore, some of the patterns do give the
illusion of including lace or broderie anglaise. Although most of the patterns were designed
to be borders, a few could be overall designs.
The smaller patterns may have been intended to be borders for
handkerchiefs or neckerchiefs. The
patterns are numbered but are not in consecutive order. The country of origin is not known, but the
samples are possibly from
The samples are
mounted on dark paper. If there were a
back cover, it is now missing. Some of
the samples are loose, but none are completely detached. The string binding the pages together may be
new. (Trex 3255)
69
x 210 (flat on shelf)
Gibard, G. Cours
de Fabrique par Theorie.
French textbook with illustrations and
fabric swatches, 1829.
This volume includes approximately 185
pages of handwritten text, dealing primarily with the fabrication of silk
cloths. It consists of diagrams and written
instructions for setting up looms in order to weave a wide variety of textile
fabrics. Weaving instructions correspond
to 59 actual fabric swatches. Most
swatches are discussed, in increasing complexity, in terms of
"remettage," "ourdissage,"(warping)
"lissage,"(glossing) and "armure"(loom patterns). Text in French.
69
x 211 (flat on shelf)
Textile sample book, 1858-1859.
This book contains a brief title page
reading only "Colloring Book."
This is followed by approximately 200 sample swatches of printed cotton
textile fabrics. The swatches are pasted
onto the versos, while the rectos contain pieces, dates and color names,
apparently recording the printing of the various patterns. Colors include black, red, brown, lilac,
drab, chocolate. The names repeated
throughout the volume indicate a New England origin, probably
69
x 216
Swatch book, ca. 1800-1825.
This book contains about 350 remarkable
samples of a wide variety of textile fabrics.
Written remarks next to each swatch seem to indicate the producer and
the available supply of fabric, perhaps
establishing the book as an inventory or order book for a dry goods store. What are assumed to be producers appear as
"W. & C.," "S. & N.A.," or "R.R. &
Co.," etc.
Florence Montgomery, in Textiles in
70
x 76 (flat on shelf)
Bartsch, I.G.
Sample book of silk weaving.
This book consists of 100 swatches of
woven silk, lithographed plates depicting looms, weaving patterns, diagrams,
etc. Many of the illustrations show how
the fabric was woven. Weaver's drafts in
the volume are both lithographed and in pen-and-pencil. Some drafts contain handwritten notations
about the quantity of thread needed.
Several of the patterns are numbered and correspond with swatches
located in the front of the volume.
Floral and geometric patterns predominate, although a few crests were
woven into the fabric. All lithographs
bear the name I.G. Bartsch and Al. Leykum, lithographer. Captions and handwritten notations in German.
70
x 78 (in box, 39 B 2)
Textile samples, 1809-1845.
This collection consists of 27 sheets
with numerous small, numbered fabric swatches on each. Such fabric types as calico prints, denim,
broad cloth, woven fabrics, cashmere, wool, and felt are represented. Some sheets contain text, perhaps ordering
information. Several sheets are
addressed to B. Schier. The last page
bears the label "Bloc de 25 Feuilluts pour Etudes et Croques, Papier Pur
Chiffon." Text in French.
The text on 70x78.8 has been translated
as follows:
“Tissue made by the inhabitants of the
(piece
on back): “On one of the
71
x 62 (in miscellaneous
Woven portrait of Jacquard
French woven silk, a portrait of J.M.
Jacquard from the painting by Didier Petit.
Carquillat textile.
(Trex no. 3552)
71
x 132
Swatch book, possibly 1830's.
Consists of nine large swatches of
floral-printed calicos and dimities, each measuring approximately 22 x 26
cm. The back cover contains the
handwritten name "Mrs. R. Rolles."
No direct evidence of date or manufacturer.
See under Index tab for additional
comments about this volume.
72
x 55.1 (flat on shelf)
French printed silks, Spring 1841.
This volume contains 502 examples of
flowered and patterned silks that are French in origin. The swatches are pasted within hand ruled
borders and probably represent new dress fabrics for 1841. Some feature printed designs, while others
have patterns woven into the fabric, including stripes and fleurettes, most on
a light background. A few have a silk
warp and cotton weft and might have been used for handkerchiefs. Several of the swatches are numbered. Patterns are shown in a variety of color
schemes.
72
x 55.2 (flat on shelf)
Album of printed silks, ca. 1830-1850.
This volume, from the same firm as 72 x
55.1, contains approximately 890 swatches of lightweight printed French silks,
displaying a huge variety of patterns and colors in excellent condition. “Un
bel album, tres caracteristique de son epoque." No text.
72
x 55.3 (flat on shelf)
Album of dress silks, spring 1849.
This album, from the same firm as 72 x
55.1-.2, contains 490 pieces of exquisite dress silks, including taffetas,
tone-on-tone or multicolored brocades, floral patterns in multicolored
bouquets, lace, etc. All is in excellent
condition.
72
x 55.4 (flat on shelf)
Collection of silks and velvets, 1856.
This collection, from the same firm as 72
x 55.1-.3, consists of 94 large swatches intended for dressmaking. The samples are in a variety of patterns and colors
and are found to be in excellent condition.
72
x 55.5 (flat on shelf)
Livre d'Echantillons, 1857.
This book, from the same firm as 72 x
55.1-.4, contains 1,400 samples of Indian cottons. Enormous variety of styles and colors.
72
x 56 (flat on shelf)
Silk samples, ca. 1840-1850.
Over 600 variously sized swatches of silk
are pasted within hand-ruled borders.
The especially bright and colorful swatches are probably of French
origin. On the cover, which may not be
original to the leaves, is written "Stoffmuster."
72
x 57
D. & J. Anderson.
Pattern book of cottons, 1887-1909.
D. and J. Anderson manufactured a wide
variety of cotton fabrics in
This pattern book from the firm contains
hundreds of small swatches of colored cotton textile fabrics. Identification numbers are written next to
the swatches, along with weaving information and dates. On the inside front cover an inscription
reads "J. Anderson, her Husband, Deceased was the head of D. & J.
Anderson of
73
x 164
Dye sample book, 1858.
This small volume contains 292 swatches
of printed cotton textiles, most in shades of pink, purple, maroon, or brick
red. It also includes manuscript dye
recipes for most swatches. On verso of
the fourth leaf is a note that reads "Robes dyed Novr. 17th/58"; on
verso of the third leaf from the back, another inscription reads "Oct.
27th/58." Together, these two notes
have been taken to indicate a creation date of 1858. The volume is assumed to be of English
origin, although a previous owner noted of the swatches, "Many of French
origin."
75
x 9.1-.4 (flat on shelf)
Harris, Kate S. (Catherine Smith), 1857-1940.
Harris, Sarah Bradway (Sallie), 1832-1909.
Johnson, Sarah Marion Harris, 1859-1929.
Fabric scrapbooks, ca. 1880-1890.
These scrapbooks were assembled by Sarah
Bradway (Sallie) Harris and her daughters Catherine Smith (Kate) Harris and
Sarah Marion Harris Johnson of
Each one of this four-volume set consists
of fabric swatches sewn to the pages of a scrapbook album, over 700 swatches in
all, with some duplication between the scrapbooks. The scrapbooks were most likely assembled
between 1880 and 1890. The set features
many wedding dress swatches; fabrics for household furnishings are also
included. The origin and approximate age
of many of the swatches are given in handwritten legends, such as "Painted
Muslin from Mary Griscom about 75 years old"; "Homemade Linen check
belonged to Lydia Harris who died in 1843"; "Bought at auction 40
years ago by Susan Denn for 7 cents a yard"; "Anna Powell's wedding
dress, married Waddington B. Ridgway 2nd month 8th 1859"; and "Border
of a shawl found in a bundle of clothes which floated up on the Penns Neck
shore over 25 years ago." 75x009.4
features a number of toiles and ribbons from the World's Industrial and Cotton
Centennial Exposition in
75
x 130 (flat on shelf)
Old
Southampton Odds and Ends,
not completed before 1898.
Swatch book.
The bulk of this volume consists of large
fabric swatches pasted to card stock.
The collection includes examples of wool, linen, and cotton,
demonstrating their application to various items such as tablecloths,
pillowcases, ribbons, wedding dresses, chintz, paisleys, embroideries,
calicoes, and imported examples from
76
x 98.1016 (in miscellaneous
[late 19th century?]
A pale tan ribbon with the word “
76
x 98.1017 (in miscellaneous
Woven by J. & J. Cash, Inc.,
A
peach-colored ribbon woven with a portrait of George Washington, a decorative
border, and the words: “Washington Bicentennial Book Mark, 1732-1932, All Good
Wishes from
76
x 98.1018 (in miscellaneous
McKinley calendar ribbon
A blue ribbon made after the
assassination of William McKinley in 1901.
The ribbon includes the words “McKinley Calendar,” a portrait of
McKinley, a summary of his life and career, words of farewell, and a calendar
for the year 1902. The ends are
decorated with fringe. A bad stain mars
the portrait.
76
x 98.1019 (in miscellaneous
Rosser-Gibbons Camp of Confederate
Veterans.
Ribbon for Grand rally and picnic, 1898.
A pale blue ribbon decorated with the
seal of Virginia and printed with the words “1861-65, Grand Rally and Picnic by
Rosser-Gibbons Camp of Confederate Veterans, Luray, Va., August 25th,
1898.” Pin holes are easily discernable
in the upper edge. The long edges of the
ribbon are beginning to fray.
77
x 46 (in miscellaneous
Bookmark
Bookmark embroidered in cross-stitch on
card stock, not on fabric, but the card is attached to silk ribbon. The bookmark bears the initials C. E. L. and
the number 73 (probably a reference to the year 1873).
77 x 60.3 (in miscellaneous
A white ribbon,
5.5 cm wide and 23 cm. long, in the middle of which is a round picture, printed
in black, bearing the inscription “Alliance of Neptune and Pan, Union of Erie
with the
The ribbon was
purchased at the same time as a letter from Nathan S. Roberts, civil engineer
in charge of construction of the canal, and may have belonged to him. Furthermore, Col. 243 contains a watch paper
which was cut out of an identical ribbon (acc. no. 76x69.9).
77
x 110
The inscription "
Identified by Florence Montgomery (Textiles in America, 1650-1870) as
"identical to a book at Colonial Williamsburg."
77 x 199 (in miscellaneous
Ribbon, ca. 1819
An off-white
ribbon, 7 cm. wide by 30 cm. long, issued by the Washington Beneficial Society,
which was instituted on April 19 and incorporated on August 3, 1819. The inscription does not give the city or
state of incorporation, but it is believed to have been in
77 x 515 (in miscellaneous
Ames
Manufacturing Company.
Benjamin
Franklin statue commemorative ribbon, 1856.
An off-white
ribbon, 6 cm. wide by 22 cm. long, issued by the
The statue was
placed in front of City Hall on
78
x 100
Lace-making instructions, ca. 1885-1900.
This volume consists of a pocket-sized
book, into which instructions for making a variety of knitted lace patterns
have been both written and pasted, along with small samples of actual lace
corresponding to each set of instructions.
Many of the sets of instructions are newspaper clippings. As well, there is an example of drawn-thread
work and an example of cross stitch. The
first three pages contain what appear to be milk production records for four
months of 1885. The previous owner has
related that the volume came from
78
x 178
Le Gueult & Dulongraix.
Letters, ca. 1800.
This volume contains four letters with wool felt and calico samples, written to the firm Le Gueult & Dulongraix at Vire from the firm Cattres & Martin. The letters involve crediting accounts and filling orders. Samples show the types of fabrics in which the firms were dealing. The felt samples have numbers, possibly for orders, associated with them. The dates used in the letters are from the French Republican calendar. Text in French.